lloydsound

Be sure to do this once I have painted my rear pillars back to black, lol

lloydsound

So I have just re-read this entire thread and it seems to be that the only smoking gun could be the leaking injectors argument. I wonder if any bug owners with upgraded/modified injectors, I.E Pink injectors Etc, have had this problem before/since/ after their injectors upgrade???

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Although mine's a blob. it did it before and after an injector change!
OK so it could be an awful coincidence that both sets had a leaker but it made me consider other possible reasons.
My stick on the throttle trick is the only way I can be sure of a clean start.

JohnD

lloydsound

Mine did it today when it was warm, it doesn't do it when I use the turbo timer

scoobyJim2

I know this is old thread now but remember reading it before as I also had this problem but since doing a coolant flush & change she runs & starts like a new car!
I did do a thorough flush though,i removed heater hose and radiator and header tank caps and radiator plug,then sprayed the garden hose round the system,going from heater pipe to header tank to radiator,flushing them all. I then filled the system and put a radiator flush treatment in,run the engine and waited for fans to kick in (i ran it till they came on about 4 times) then once it cooled down i drained it and then flushed it like before with garden hose,then refilled with a full 5ltrs of non pre mixed antifreeze but a small amount of water was required during bleading air out.
Anyone suffering starting or running issues i would suggest you try this,after all it cant hurt!!

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Seems to suggest coolant temp. sensor related?

JohnD

scoobyJim2

Yes i agree but mearly changing ect sensor won't fix issue because the quality of coolant is/was so poor,rusty coloured water/coolant and possible sludge in pipes and bottom of radiator,gives sensor bad readings. Like i say,since flushing and changing coolant my car starts & drives like a dream,where before i would sometimes struggle to start and choke would turn off as soon as i touched accelerator and then not run perfect until warm. Now the choke stays on until its supposed too. Another plus is my heaters get really hot now and my air con is super cold and doesn't have a mind of its own now (sometimes it would just come on on its own if heaters were on,now it doesn't)
I think its worth a try for anyone suffering some of the issues in this thread..
By the way,mine is a blob with pink injectors which i also suspected was the problem.properly flush and change coolant,equals no problem

lloydsound

I wonder if any old garage would do this?

CutMasterT

iTrader: (2)

If you mean change coolant and flush out the system then yes...but personally I would do it myself because it is so easy to airlock as they can't be bled, and would any old garage know this?
Backfill via the turbo hose is the best way to do which i learned from Alcazars posts on the subject.
Its dead easy to do tho 😊

scoobyJim2

A garage wouldn't spend the time you need to do it properly,they would do a quick change but mine was in need of a thorough flush. I got lucky doing mine and it hardly needed a bleed,i just filled the radiator with antifreeze and then topped of header tank with a little water,whilst engine was running and heaters on full hot

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

ICV


I remember my R5 turbo's choke lever. The archaic-ness!

scoobyJim2

its an automatic choke is it not? And ect sensor seems to control it; not icv

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

You win.

Bob Rawle

what injectors do you have in it/were in it, are they flow matched modified? If so thats your issue, what were you told they flowed ?

I bang on about this but cutting the end off a set of std injectors kills atomisation and all they do is "piddle" fuel into the cylinders at idle and startup

cheers

bob

forgedmarco

iTrader: (10)

Bob whilst you're available, I saw a thread once where you mentioned bugeyes earthing wasn't as good as the blobs etc could you elaborate? Thanks Marc

CutMasterT

iTrader: (2)

Just to update this finally lol


Started car up for first time in about 4 months


Fired up perfectly, nice steady cold idle then settled to the normal 900 after a few mins


Was all happy until a seagull to a huge dump on the windscreen

lloydsound

So are we saying that the coolant temp sensor was 100% the problem?

I'm sure mine is the starter motor as sometimes
It now doesn't even crank but makes that horribly noise

CutMasterT

iTrader: (2)

With mine I think the wiring to the CTS was causing the problem. They were seriously corroded and the plastic clip was properly shagged, so its more than likely that the signal to/from this sensor was unable to be read properly.


Since re doing the wiring to it and replacing with a new clip to secure it I haven't had a problem since.

CutMasterT

iTrader: (2)

I spoke too soon...

Damn problem is back again.

I cannot understand it, I've replaced pretty much everything.

What could cause an intermittent issue like this? It started perfectly the other day after being sat for almost 4 months. Only thing I did do then was disconnect crank sensor and crank until oil light went out, only as it had been sat for so long.

Today went out to it and turned over but wouldn't catch. I had to tap the accel pedal to get it to catch, then it came on bit lumpy, but settled after about 20 seconds.
As I drove off (engine still cold) one thing I did notice was that when I push clutch in and let it coast a bit, the revs drop right down, almost as tho its gonna stall but then picks up again.
When engine is warm its fine.

Anyone know if the Deatchworks 740cc injectors are reflowed 440's?

scoobyJim2

This is what mine was doing (struggling to start and if touch accelerator revs drop) buy when i done the coolant flush all was well. Saying this,a couple of times lately I've had to gas it a little to start but the revs/choke stays on ok now. i done the coolant change a couple months ago now and my radiator cap has a small amount of gunk on it again (i think i probably need a new radiator,rather than keep cleaning cap or giving it more of a flush).
Anyway,what im thinking it is,is the ect sensor is overly sensitive and the smallest amount of crud in the system,either contaminates it or just interferes with the reading it gives ecu

scoobyJim2

So what i suggest is try a thorough coolant flush and maybe inspect and clean ect sensor and if its ok again.

CutMasterT

iTrader: (2)

Cool cheers dude going to get them to do that today.

Will update with results once its all done

scoobyJim2

If there's any build up at all on rad cap,then im sure there could be build up on the ect sensor.get them to flush through with a hose aswell as using a rad flush treatment. Let us know over the next few days if it runs like new

Berks-Jack

iTrader: (10)

OP I've only just scan read this but have you guys been back to your mapper to try and adjust your cold start?

I know a few mates have had issues described similarly as yours when they have had their cars mapped and especially after fitting a new ecu like an alcatek etc.

Apologies if that's already been ticked off the list.

scoobyJim2

Mine was mapped atleast 7yrs ago now but the problem had only started over last year or so and when i checked my coolant,it was clear it was the issue.the gunk was pretty thick on cap and the small expansion radiator pipe was a little clogged

Inviroman

iTrader: (2)

Mine is still doing it even after a coolant flush and change plus change of the ecu coolant sensor, either one injectors or back to the mapper to see if he can find the issue.

scoobyJim2

I had my car mapped again this Saturday because the guy was doing them at a discounted rate this weekend and its been a long time since it was mapped. Anyway this mapper said that my air filter induction kit wasn't mapped in and it was still mapped for standard airbox!
Anyway the last couple of days its started on the button,so give me a week or so and I'll reply on here if its still starting fine.if it is then obviously my map needed a tune which yours might also need,or maybe your maf is faulty. If you have already replaced maf with a good working one,then did you replace it with one that has the same colour sticker i.e. Green,orange,purple?

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Did you change the induction after the last mapping? If not, it would have been mapped to the specification that existed at the time. There's no such thing as a map for an airbox and another for induction kit.

JohnD

scoobyJim2

I bought the car years ago with the mods & map already done,then i had it mapped again the other day and mapper said it wasn't mapped for induction kit and was running lean because of this. The induction kit must have been fitted at the same time as other mods because fmic pipework wont fit if still have standard airbox

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Ah............I get it now!

JohnD