Cold Start Issues
#122
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So I have just re-read this entire thread and it seems to be that the only smoking gun could be the leaking injectors argument. I wonder if any bug owners with upgraded/modified injectors, I.E Pink injectors Etc, have had this problem before/since/ after their injectors upgrade???
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So I have just re-read this entire thread and it seems to be that the only smoking gun could be the leaking injectors argument. I wonder if any bug owners with upgraded/modified injectors, I.E Pink injectors Etc, have had this problem before/since/ after their injectors upgrade???
OK so it could be an awful coincidence that both sets had a leaker but it made me consider other possible reasons.
My stick on the throttle trick is the only way I can be sure of a clean start.
JohnD
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Mine did it today when it was warm, it doesn't do it when I use the turbo timer
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Mine has been fine since getting it back from scoobyclinic, they put new coolant ( needed doing anyway ) clean idle control valve as was a Little sticky apparently and adjusted a few things ( their words ) on the dyno that's all I know. Maybe call them and ask. Black prodrive bugeye sti cheers Marc
I did do a thorough flush though,i removed heater hose and radiator and header tank caps and radiator plug,then sprayed the garden hose round the system,going from heater pipe to header tank to radiator,flushing them all. I then filled the system and put a radiator flush treatment in,run the engine and waited for fans to kick in (i ran it till they came on about 4 times) then once it cooled down i drained it and then flushed it like before with garden hose,then refilled with a full 5ltrs of non pre mixed antifreeze but a small amount of water was required during bleading air out.
Anyone suffering starting or running issues i would suggest you try this,after all it cant hurt!!
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 10 June 2015 at 12:17 AM.
#126
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I know this is old thread now but remember reading it before as I also had this problem but since doing a coolant flush & change she runs & starts like a new car!
I did do a thorough flush though,i removed heater hose and radiator and header tank caps and radiator plug,then sprayed the garden hose round the system,going from heater pipe to header tank to radiator,flushing them all. I then filled the system and put a radiator flush treatment in,run the engine and waited for fans to kick in (i ran it till they came on about 4 times) then once it cooled down i drained it and then flushed it like before with garden hose,then refilled with a full 5ltrs of non pre mixed antifreeze but a small amount of water was required during bleading air out.
Anyone suffering starting or running issues i would suggest you try this,after all it cant hurt!!
I did do a thorough flush though,i removed heater hose and radiator and header tank caps and radiator plug,then sprayed the garden hose round the system,going from heater pipe to header tank to radiator,flushing them all. I then filled the system and put a radiator flush treatment in,run the engine and waited for fans to kick in (i ran it till they came on about 4 times) then once it cooled down i drained it and then flushed it like before with garden hose,then refilled with a full 5ltrs of non pre mixed antifreeze but a small amount of water was required during bleading air out.
Anyone suffering starting or running issues i would suggest you try this,after all it cant hurt!!
JohnD
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Yes i agree but mearly changing ect sensor won't fix issue because the quality of coolant is/was so poor,rusty coloured water/coolant and possible sludge in pipes and bottom of radiator,gives sensor bad readings. Like i say,since flushing and changing coolant my car starts & drives like a dream,where before i would sometimes struggle to start and choke would turn off as soon as i touched accelerator and then not run perfect until warm. Now the choke stays on until its supposed too. Another plus is my heaters get really hot now and my air con is super cold and doesn't have a mind of its own now (sometimes it would just come on on its own if heaters were on,now it doesn't)
I think its worth a try for anyone suffering some of the issues in this thread..
By the way,mine is a blob with pink injectors which i also suspected was the problem.properly flush and change coolant,equals no problem
I think its worth a try for anyone suffering some of the issues in this thread..
By the way,mine is a blob with pink injectors which i also suspected was the problem.properly flush and change coolant,equals no problem
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 11 June 2015 at 11:15 PM.
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If you mean change coolant and flush out the system then yes...but personally I would do it myself because it is so easy to airlock as they can't be bled, and would any old garage know this?
Backfill via the turbo hose is the best way to do which i learned from Alcazars posts on the subject.
Its dead easy to do tho 😊
Backfill via the turbo hose is the best way to do which i learned from Alcazars posts on the subject.
Its dead easy to do tho 😊
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A garage wouldn't spend the time you need to do it properly,they would do a quick change but mine was in need of a thorough flush. I got lucky doing mine and it hardly needed a bleed,i just filled the radiator with antifreeze and then topped of header tank with a little water,whilst engine was running and heaters on full hot
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 12 June 2015 at 10:04 AM.
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what injectors do you have in it/were in it, are they flow matched modified? If so thats your issue, what were you told they flowed ?
I bang on about this but cutting the end off a set of std injectors kills atomisation and all they do is "piddle" fuel into the cylinders at idle and startup
cheers
bob
I bang on about this but cutting the end off a set of std injectors kills atomisation and all they do is "piddle" fuel into the cylinders at idle and startup
cheers
bob
Last edited by Bob Rawle; 12 June 2015 at 09:43 PM.
#135
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what injectors do you have in it/were in it, are they flow matched modified? If so thats your issue, what were you told they flowed ?
I bang on about this but cutting the end off a set of std injectors kills atomisation and all they do is "piddle" fuel into the cylinders at idle and startup
cheers
bob
I bang on about this but cutting the end off a set of std injectors kills atomisation and all they do is "piddle" fuel into the cylinders at idle and startup
cheers
bob
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How's the car been since you replaced the coolant temp sensor CutMasterT ? Mine has developed exactly the same problem but only since leaving the car standing over this last weekend - curiously the alternator belt was replaced last week during the Major Service, so I wonder if removing the alternator has triggered some issue with the coolant temp sensor / wiring ?
Just to update this finally lol
Started car up for first time in about 4 months
Fired up perfectly, nice steady cold idle then settled to the normal 900 after a few mins
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Was all happy until a seagull to a huge dump on the windscreen
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#137
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So are we saying that the coolant temp sensor was 100% the problem?
I'm sure mine is the starter motor as sometimes
It now doesn't even crank but makes that horribly noise
I'm sure mine is the starter motor as sometimes
It now doesn't even crank but makes that horribly noise
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With mine I think the wiring to the CTS was causing the problem. They were seriously corroded and the plastic clip was properly shagged, so its more than likely that the signal to/from this sensor was unable to be read properly.
Since re doing the wiring to it and replacing with a new clip to secure it I haven't had a problem since.
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I spoke too soon...
Damn problem is back again.
I cannot understand it, I've replaced pretty much everything.
What could cause an intermittent issue like this? It started perfectly the other day after being sat for almost 4 months. Only thing I did do then was disconnect crank sensor and crank until oil light went out, only as it had been sat for so long.
Today went out to it and turned over but wouldn't catch. I had to tap the accel pedal to get it to catch, then it came on bit lumpy, but settled after about 20 seconds.
As I drove off (engine still cold) one thing I did notice was that when I push clutch in and let it coast a bit, the revs drop right down, almost as tho its gonna stall but then picks up again.
When engine is warm its fine.
Anyone know if the Deatchworks 740cc injectors are reflowed 440's?
Damn problem is back again.
I cannot understand it, I've replaced pretty much everything.
What could cause an intermittent issue like this? It started perfectly the other day after being sat for almost 4 months. Only thing I did do then was disconnect crank sensor and crank until oil light went out, only as it had been sat for so long.
Today went out to it and turned over but wouldn't catch. I had to tap the accel pedal to get it to catch, then it came on bit lumpy, but settled after about 20 seconds.
As I drove off (engine still cold) one thing I did notice was that when I push clutch in and let it coast a bit, the revs drop right down, almost as tho its gonna stall but then picks up again.
When engine is warm its fine.
Anyone know if the Deatchworks 740cc injectors are reflowed 440's?
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I spoke too soon...
Damn problem is back again.
I cannot understand it, I've replaced pretty much everything.
What could cause an intermittent issue like this? It started perfectly the other day after being sat for almost 4 months. Only thing I did do then was disconnect crank sensor and crank until oil light went out, only as it had been sat for so long.
Today went out to it and turned over but wouldn't catch. I had to tap the accel pedal to get it to catch, then it came on bit lumpy, but settled after about 20 seconds.
As I drove off (engine still cold) one thing I did notice was that when I push clutch in and let it coast a bit, the revs drop right down, almost as tho its gonna stall but then picks up again.
When engine is warm its fine.
Anyone know if the Deatchworks 740cc injectors are reflowed 440's?
Damn problem is back again.
I cannot understand it, I've replaced pretty much everything.
What could cause an intermittent issue like this? It started perfectly the other day after being sat for almost 4 months. Only thing I did do then was disconnect crank sensor and crank until oil light went out, only as it had been sat for so long.
Today went out to it and turned over but wouldn't catch. I had to tap the accel pedal to get it to catch, then it came on bit lumpy, but settled after about 20 seconds.
As I drove off (engine still cold) one thing I did notice was that when I push clutch in and let it coast a bit, the revs drop right down, almost as tho its gonna stall but then picks up again.
When engine is warm its fine.
Anyone know if the Deatchworks 740cc injectors are reflowed 440's?
Anyway,what im thinking it is,is the ect sensor is overly sensitive and the smallest amount of crud in the system,either contaminates it or just interferes with the reading it gives ecu
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 29 June 2015 at 02:13 AM.
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#144
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OP I've only just scan read this but have you guys been back to your mapper to try and adjust your cold start?
I know a few mates have had issues described similarly as yours when they have had their cars mapped and especially after fitting a new ecu like an alcatek etc.
Apologies if that's already been ticked off the list.
I know a few mates have had issues described similarly as yours when they have had their cars mapped and especially after fitting a new ecu like an alcatek etc.
Apologies if that's already been ticked off the list.
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OP I've only just scan read this but have you guys been back to your mapper to try and adjust your cold start?
I know a few mates have had issues described similarly as yours when they have had their cars mapped and especially after fitting a new ecu like an alcatek etc.
Apologies if that's already been ticked off the list.
I know a few mates have had issues described similarly as yours when they have had their cars mapped and especially after fitting a new ecu like an alcatek etc.
Apologies if that's already been ticked off the list.
#146
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Mine is still doing it even after a coolant flush and change plus change of the ecu coolant sensor, either one injectors or back to the mapper to see if he can find the issue.
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Anyway the last couple of days its started on the button,so give me a week or so and I'll reply on here if its still starting fine.if it is then obviously my map needed a tune which yours might also need,or maybe your maf is faulty. If you have already replaced maf with a good working one,then did you replace it with one that has the same colour sticker i.e. Green,orange,purple?
#148
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I had my car mapped again this Saturday because the guy was doing them at a discounted rate this weekend and its been a long time since it was mapped. Anyway this mapper said that my air filter induction kit wasn't mapped in and it was still mapped for standard airbox!
Anyway the last couple of days its started on the button,so give me a week or so and I'll reply on here if its still starting fine.if it is then obviously my map needed a tune which yours might also need,or maybe your maf is faulty. If you have already replaced maf with a good working one,then did you replace it with one that has the same colour sticker i.e. Green,orange,purple?
Anyway the last couple of days its started on the button,so give me a week or so and I'll reply on here if its still starting fine.if it is then obviously my map needed a tune which yours might also need,or maybe your maf is faulty. If you have already replaced maf with a good working one,then did you replace it with one that has the same colour sticker i.e. Green,orange,purple?
JohnD
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I bought the car years ago with the mods & map already done,then i had it mapped again the other day and mapper said it wasn't mapped for induction kit and was running lean because of this. The induction kit must have been fitted at the same time as other mods because fmic pipework wont fit if still have standard airbox
Last edited by scoobyJim2; 17 July 2015 at 06:31 PM.
#150
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I bought the car years ago with the mods & map already done,then i had it mapped again the other day and mapper said it wasn't mapped for induction kit and was running lean because of this. The induction kit must have been fitted at the same time as other mods because fmic pipework wont fit if still have standard airbox
![Idea](images/smilies/idea.gif)
JohnD