adz556

iTrader: (5)

You can buy a newage wrx short block for £400ish.....that will be more reliable than a more than likely higher mileage classic short block. I'd keep the closed deck and build it when you can. As you said yesterday, £1400 short block plus £500 for a new crank, plus all the gaskets and seals and your talking £200 for rocker cover seal, coolant over block, icv, throttle body, inlet manifold, etc plus £150ish for a decent set of head gaskets.....thats £2250 before you add on all the service items and fluids to refit. Rebuild is always going to be your better option mate, its just justifying and affording the costs involved but £1000ish for a sti short motor that goes pop in 1000 miles even is expensive to fix.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Really? I had a set of billet fuel rails for v1-2 which fitted onto a spare manifold. When I lined that up to my v4 heads it wouldn't fit.

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Is that because you were trying to use a version 2 manifold with a front entry turbo inlet pipe?

Once fitted especially with the inlet pipe for the turbo even the correct manifolds can be a pain in the **** to line up. I recently did the head gaskets on my old version 3 and the silicone turbo inlet pipe made it so difficult to get the inlet manifold back on, it took about half hour to get it lined up and all of the bolts in.

The spacing for version 1 - 4 is the same, however there are other differences so the inlet manifolds aren't easily interchangeable but the heads are. For instance on the engine I mentioned on page 1 I ran that in a version 2 sti with a version 3 inlet manifold but a version 2 throttle body spaced and rotated upside down and a version 2 idle control valve. It wasn't a straight swap but it worked a treat.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've just lined them up and you're right they line up. However the problem I had was with the water crossover pipe and black solid pipework that runs underneath. So in theory Matty should be fine as long as he retains the original pipework underneath.

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

One thing I will say is that whoever quoted you £1400 to do a refresh using your old crank needs shooting!
Never re-use a Subaru crank if the shells have gone.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Machine my crank or something he said I think.

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

That's a big nono in Subaru circles because they say that you can't regrind these cranks, it's a new crank or you're asking for trouble. https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-re-grind.html

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

You can polish them though, depends on the scale of the damage.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Engine tuner told me the same as well not too long ago. I was watching a 2l crank on eBay which had spun a shell and sold for £11 lol.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Is it only me that read the last post by Harvey.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

I've searched but can't find it....

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

If I end up going with a newage STI motor then I shall use my V2 heads and inlet etc. As I said, this isn't going to be a power chase car, the V2 heads will do just fine. I just want a reliable car that I can have some fun in on a sunny sunday afternoon and maybe take to a few shows, I don't do many miles (maybe 2K a year tops).
Im not keen on using another used standard classic motor and don't want to just bolt in a cheap motor only to pull it out a later date. I want to fit an engine and forget about it.
im just concerned about throwing £700 at a block only for it to knock its bollocks off when I turn the key.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Whereabouts are you Matt? It might be worth having a chat to a reliable breaker on here to let you know when they will have a newage in. They might let you hear it, maybe even drive it before the engine is pulled out.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

I've spoken to a couple of breakers on here but they don't seem to sell short motors, they only want to sell as long blocks which is understandable.
I've been chatting to Billet on here as he has one for sale. Im just concerned as its already removed and has no paperwork with it. Theres also a v7 short motor in the sale section but again, already removed with no history etc etc. Its a gamble, I've just got to decide if im prepared to gamble £7/800 quid.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Click the link and scroll down.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Would it be worth seeing what AVCS heads go for and remove from the long block?

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Avcs heads go for around £2/300.

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

But they are often cracked around the spark plug hole so it could be dead money.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Well, just agreed a deal on a blob sti short motor. Its already removed but been assured its a good block with little over 40K on it. Its a gamble but lets just hope it turns out well.
Hopefully collect it this weekend if the bores all look nice once the heads are off.

thanks for all the advice fellas

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

So headgasket wise, any recommendations ??
New head bolts a must or just re-use my ones ??

anything else I need to consider ??
plan on using the cambelt off my motor as its only just been replaced.

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

New bolts are wise, but I'd put ARP studs in. Gaskets must be genuine Subaru or Cosworth & don't be tempted by Cometic as some are prone to blowing as mine did. Personally I'd buy a long engine & fit an ECU which can run the AVCS like an Alcatec, ESL may even have the capability now, PM JGM he'll know & tell you the cost of the conversion.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Have you spoken to anyone to see if they advise skimmimg your heads before they are fitted to the short block.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Deffo going to use my heads. What to keep it looking as stock as possible so will be using my inlet etc.

Richard from ZEN will be heavily involved so im sure he'll advise on all the bits, just what to figure out what else I'll need to buy beforehand.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Oil and filter.
What is the condition of the idler pulleys and tensioner on the short block?
Is your old engine out yet? If not I'd start on that and start stripping bits off and maybe cleaning them up. If you're refurbing your inlet then injector seals - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Inj...item2c81b8a57a (not OEM)

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Are the standard RA heads fitted with hydraulic lifters? You might have seen my engine build thread on Type RA?
The engine in my car when I bought it was a mongrel and was fitted with an open deck block and the heads were the Hydraulic "tappet" type. I was advised that hydraulic tappets are prone to sticking following a rebuild and dont like high revs.
I sourced V3/4 sti heads which were a direct replacement. Apparently they have a wilder cam profile and the advantages of using shims and buckets. The V2 5th injector inlet was a direct fit with no special parts needed. I used standard V2 timing gear too.

If you fancy a DIY project make a list of what you need, bolts, seals, gaskets, pulleys, belts etc etc and price them up. Then get some quotes on machining head/block faces, valve reseating,honing etc etc and add it all up. Then ask yourself if you have the skills and facilities to put it together. After I did this a professional rebuild seemed good value.

I think I'd rather go put the money on a horse than buy a breakers yard motor after what I've read on here. The exception is buying a used motor from a car that you know. Good luck with what ever choice you make

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

These are not stretch bolts so they can be re-used. i'd base that decision on power goals.

If re-using the tensioner you need to clamp it and inset a pin before removal, gently with even force.

Head gasket again depends on power goals, genuine subaru MLS gaskets would be my choice for normal applications. You won't know what thickness to go for until you see the state of the heads and decks.

Re-using your heads is a bit 6 and two 3's as it means your pulling a working engine apart, if I were doing it i'd be very tempted to go the whole hog and do the bearings as well, otherwise i'd just fit the long motor and change inlet and ecu. (which is what i'm doing on my build to run avcs cost about £250 for the parts) and it's similar money for parts (well a bit more) if removing the heads and changing bearings + labour.

I'ts a tricky one pal as a lot of the costs are very similar, I don't envy you the decision.

Make sure you get the engine with the oil modine attached as they're ******* expensive for what they are, and check the screws on the oil pump also make sure the thermostat does what it's supposed to in a cup of hot water.

It's the little things that add up.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

If you take the heads off you need to make sure the engine and heads are flat, not just the heads, most people forget to check the mating surface on the engine but skim the heads and you could still end up with issues

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Well with some help form Carl (thunder8 on here) we pulled the engine today. Found a nice brand new exedy clutch tucked away in it too :-)

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

So the engine is all stripped down. All the bores look perfect, pistons from what I can see look lovely. What is wrong is there is movement on one of the rods, it rattles very slightly on the crank shaft.





I've also decided on a plan of action.
Im going to buy this newage STI block that I've sourced, fit that with my heads so at least I've got a decent motor and a car I can use for the foreseeable future. Then, over the next 12 to 18 months slowly rebuild my CDB using uprated parts. This will allow me to build a far higher spec engine as I won't be dishing out all the money at once.
Then once my CDB is built I will refit that into the car and sell the newage sti block to recoup a few hundred quid. Thats if I don't blow it up god forbid.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

100% listen to the above advice.