Matteeboy

Sounds like you have a good un - the 330d is still VERY good indeed.
Any photos?

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Hi Matt, not yet unfortunately as I've literally not stopped all weekend. Done about 300 miles in her and obviously fiddled with this sensor yesterday so I've got her dirty without taking a single picture LOL!

I'll get some done once I have a minute to scratch my ****

Matteeboy

Nice one - it'll serve you very well (I hope)!

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Sorry guys, still no pics LOL! Enjoying ownership and people actually letting me out of junctions.

May I ask what is a good BMW forum to join for useful advice?

My two long term concerns for any diesel really are the DPF and EGR valve. My preference is switching across to sorting these over an extended warranty. Removal, blank and a friendly MOT garage...

Cheers.

Matteeboy

The UK section of e90post.com is useful.

The 330d is actually very reliable and both EGR valve and DPFs can cause issues but it's rare. Just do the odd 15+ minute drive to get both heated up once in a while and you should be fine.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Give it a hard drive to get everything warmed up (hot) before joining a motorway etc and then drive a constant speed for about 20 mins for gen to start and clear.
Should be ok if you do that.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

Hmm, cheers guys. I think the EGR may be a given as at least the DPF can regenerate. But am I right in thinking they have a shelf life around 120,000 miles before a 4-figure bill stings you?

Also, swirl flap will have to go (if applicable on 6 pot Bimmers?).

Matteeboy

EGR fault light came up on our VW van at one year old and 7000 miles; VW Assist cleared it, never had the issue again.

I don't think they have swirl flaps.

ScoobyJawa

They don't have the swirl flaps issues. Bimmerforums.co.uk or bmwland.co.uk also useful in addition to e90post.

Evolution Stu

iTrader: (2)

just for reference for folk reading this with any interest... The LCi 335d has an 6HP28 which is quite an upgrade to the 6HP26 in terms of shift speed.

E90 post will be a good one for you and your car. BMW lands quite good too, but google as there are plenty.

My two long term concerns for any diesel really are the DPF and EGR valve. My preference is switching across to sorting these over an extended warranty. Removal, blank and a friendly MOT garage...[/quote]

You wont find a warranty company that includes DPF or EGR in my experience. Ive tried many times for customers and they just dont want to know.

Best option for EGR is remove it, clean it up properly so it definitely doesn't leak and then have it coded out.

DPF requires a bit more involved care to ensure it works properly. Im happy to elaborate if your interested, but if your just going to have it removed and coded out then it wont be of interest, but don't forget, once removed the car will smoke. it seems most people don't realise that...

Matteeboy

Stu; I didn't know that (about the quicker, later gearbox)!
When I got our 335d the auto box seemed very good. Then boxes progressed and it suddenly felt archaic. The 8 speed ZF auto in the current car is a complete revelation in comparison!

No "hunting," infinitely faster, no lurching off the line and launch control; pretty impressive.

Evolution Stu

iTrader: (2)

The 6HP26 and 28 are still good fast boxes but often need a fluid change and a mechatronics adaptation reset to bring them back to their best. BMW saying that the fluid is a lifetime product is a headache and no specialist will support this, not even ZF themselves who suggest a 60k miles change of the oil and filter.

There is quite a lot in there, and the change procedure is VERY complex and causes a lot to be running about with nearly 3 litres too little fluid in them.

Heres inside the last one I did.



Thats the machatronics solenoid and brain unit you can see there. Its immersed in fluid, so anyone who puts a normal (conductive) ATF fluid in there causes headaches as it causes all manner of problems with the electronics. The ONLY oil I will fill these boxes with is ZF Lifeguard 6.

Matteeboy

Blimey that is complex! My 335d was p/xd with 59.5k miles in the clock - maybe it was getting a bit tired?!

Should we get to a similar mileage in the M135i, I will see about an oil change in the ZF box.
I'm also going to do one at 10k miles for the engine despite the intervals being 20(ish)k.

Evolution Stu

iTrader: (2)

Possibly, but possibly would just have benefited from a full adaptations reset. The intelligence of the units is quite impressive for their age and change speed, severity and timing are all dictated by the box learning the solenoid fill and empty rates (which of course then changes with viscosity and age of fluid) and lots of driver and chassis input. Rate of throttle change, yaw angle, steering angle and all manner of other stuff. just having the steering angle corrected back to zero can improve shift quality as these boxes will intellgently not shift hard while the vehicle is cornering. Nor will they shift up going down a big hill etc. Quite a lot going on with these units.

Definately worthwhile. On these you change the whole sump assembly as the filter is integrated into the sump itself. (if the usual plastic sump... i often upgrade to the metal version) The fluid change itself is quite easy, its the refill procedure that has to be adhered to strictly and has to be done at set temperatures and the second fill stage has to be done with engine running as the unit has an oil pump.


Good man. A diesel oil is well past its best by then, let alone bloody 20K. ****ing salesmen shouldn't be allowed to dictate an engines service schedule. Really niggles me that.

Tidgy

but its long life oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,








, tis a load of rubish init

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Yeah ZF themselves catorgorically state change intervals of 50K to 75K miles and 8 every years at the latest...less if used hard in conditions that will cause high oil temps, like towing. But I have seen boxes past 200K on the original oil, so really its down to your peace of mind, the oil does get quite mucky..

The cost of geniuine bmw/lifeguard oil will make you cry. Especially if you accidentally spill it (which I once did ). Beware of fakes on ebay where the contents are probably just some cheap Dexron II (the original oil isn't red, its golden and stinks like sulphur).

hodgy0_2

I had to refill my maintenance free "fluid for life" Audi auto box after I accidentally drained it thinking it was the engine oil drain

Doh - but what a palaver and quite expensive too

I had to fashion my own refill tool

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

My stronic box requires and oil change and reset every 40k

pacenote

That's a little bit more complicated than the ZF race box that's in my Escort

Matteeboy

Interesting stuff; thanks!

However I may put petrol specific oil in my M135i...

The van's (VW California 4motiom) intervals are even longer; it's almost silly. But it's a 2.0 litre diesel van so I'm a bit less precious.

I remember checking the oil on our first diesel car, a new Astra 1.9cdti 150 after a few thousand miles; when I took it to the garage in a panic, I soon learned it goes black almost immediately. If it had been a petrol, it would have spelt engine death.

Cheers for the education!

RS Grant

Stu, this is a touch off topic but related to the gearbox discussion. I'm struggling to find a local outlet which can help, I'm after an Alpina map on my (N55 engine) E91 335i automatic gearbox to sharpen up the shift speed... do MSD offer this through their authorised installers??

Details of the Alpina TCU remap are here:

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20991

If you lads could help/point me in the direction of a Scottish installer, I'd be eternally grateful.


Cheers,
Grant

Matteeboy

Also off topic but...

The N55 is nice isn't it?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Tundish and a hose....or a old Peugeot Eloys fluid refil bottle.

Warm up the oil first...otherwise it takes forever to fill via gravity. We do have a proper handpump with all the filling adapters, but the seals popped, so I had to improvise.

hodgy0_2

I believe I used some copper tubeing from my old Mini Cooper twin SU carb setup attached to an easibleed brake system - powered by a spare trailer tyre

It had to get up and over the fill tube

I then had to download a VAG VCD application and attach it via my computer to the odb port to monitor the temp levels - then run thru the gears, recheck the levels I.e see if it overspilled the level indicator

And repeat, what a faff - I remember saying to my wife, "I'm going to change the oil on the Audi, should only take 20 mins" DOH


Anway I have just had 20 ltrs of oil delivered from Opie, going to change the oil on all of my cars this weekend