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Yep, stuff a funnel down the pipe that came off that spigot, pour in coolant (mixed 50/50), from a jug, don't let it gurgle or burp. It took me about 15 minutes to fill mine.
I've found on a Newage with 2 caps you can just fill through the rad, then the header tank, run until the fans come on, any air will burp out of the open header tank, top up as required and fit the cap.
I've found on a Newage with 2 caps you can just fill through the rad, then the header tank, run until the fans come on, any air will burp out of the open header tank, top up as required and fit the cap.
Yes, drain from the rad drain plug, or remove bottom hose. Set heaters in car to hot while it drains, leave them there.
Inspect rad for the core turning to dust, if it's bad, replace it, internet ones are fine.
Use a decent quality anti-freeze, as at a motor factor for one suitable for an alloy engine and having anti-corrosion added. Dilution is usually 50/50.
Replace plug or bottom hose!!!
Remove the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank on top of thengine, remove the cap from said tank. Jam a funnel down that hose and fill SLOWLY via the funnel, do NOT allow it to gulp.
Watch for the header tank to fill, once it reaches the top, remove funnel and replace that pipe.
Now, with cap still off, start engine and allow to warm up until fan comes on. Watch for bubbles, top up or mop up as necessary.
Once fans start, switch off, replace cap, drive round block, leave to cool.
When cool, remove cap, check level, top up if necessary, replace cap, job's a good'un.
It takes a while, but bear in mind, THERE IS NO KNOWN WAY TO BLEED THE SYSTEM IF YOU AIRLOCK IT.
So if I understand everything right, I should only fill the coolant into the cooling hose of the turbo and take off the cap of the metal tank next to the engine and check the level in this metal tank. All other caps (radiator & plastic tank) stay on and I don't have to check the level in all the other tanks?
Remove the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank on top of thengine, remove the cap from said tank. Jam a funnel down that hose and fill SLOWLY via the funnel, do NOT allow it to gulp.
Hi everyone
I would please like to clarify something. Must I put the funnel into the removed hose (the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank) or Inside the metal header tank through the hole now visible because the cap was removed ?
Many thanks
i suppose that I don't need to remove thé big hose on the top of the rad in order to push the bubble out ?
And just a question : what are the differences with the procedure that requires a specific funnel with a cap that we need to plugg onto the metal tank ?
Thanks à lot. It seems to me that I succeed while doing it. I had to wait for the second launch of the fan. I will try to drive tomorrow. But thanks to this topic I think it is Ok.
So I filled the coolant up using the above method. Took 5L of coolant until filled the header. Followed Alcazar's method of then leaving the header cap off and running engine until fans came on. Went for a drive and watched temp gauge climb to 103 degrees which is further than normal. Shat my pants and came home and currently leaving to cool. There's clearly an air lock. Can't be HG as never had any issues before changing the coolant.
How the hell do I get the airlock out if I've followed the above technique? ******* cars
hi m8, just try again and go slow with it. i always use this method and sometimes it takes a few attempts as i must have let it glug and got air in. drop the coolant into your bucket and re use again.
If it helps, the final and successful attempt I refilled the system via the header pipe as pictured above using a small filter and then the jazzy refill bucket in the header tank (also pictured above).
Once warming up, I kept priming the top rad hose every now and again to force the bubbles out.
I didn't use the radiator filler at all which was kept closed at all times.
glad you got there in the end m8! it is a good method when done correctly. the only reservation i can see with this method is if you have an old or original radiator it might have flakes of rust which have settled to the bottom of the radiator so when you back fill from the bottom these rust flakes would be disturbed an float up again then sink back down and maybe cause a blockage? i dont know if alcazar or any of the others who came up with this method ever discussed this but its something to keep in mind.
28 April 2016 | 05:04 PM
