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£400 bottom end rebuilds

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Old 11 March 2015, 03:55 PM
  #31  
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I haven't read the fb advert but it is possible to rebuild an engine for a reasonable price.

Old 11 March 2015, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyJim2
I haven't read the fb advert but it is possible to rebuild an engine for a reasonable price.
The first receipt was the quote before i wanted it stronger. Now it has stronger Conrods and Teflon pistons which i doubt were brand new but the important bits are,like piston rings and bearings
Old 11 March 2015, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyJim2

The first receipt was the quote before i wanted it stronger. Now it has stronger Conrods and Teflon pistons which i doubt were brand new but the important bits are,like piston rings and bearings
Here's my engine

Notice the new thicker con rod on right.
Old 11 March 2015, 04:24 PM
  #34  
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anything under 3k for a properly supplied and built forged engine makes me worried.

Mahl pistons are around £500 a set retail, rods £450, bearings £200, crank £400, Arp studs £200 + all gaskets and seals + labour etc etc etc but its dependant on spec


Bear in mind 'teflon coated' isn't a fully 'forged' build, unless they are teflon coated forged pistons which I doubt.
Old 12 March 2015, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
anything under 3k for a properly supplied and built forged engine makes me worried.

Mahl pistons are around £500 a set retail, rods £450, bearings £200, crank £400, Arp studs £200 + all gaskets and seals + labour etc etc etc but its dependant on spec

Bear in mind 'teflon coated' isn't a fully 'forged' build, unless they are teflon coated forged pistons which I doubt.
Yes i agree some brand namesl parts can cost a fortune brand new but alot of stuff is probably reusable with just a clean up,like valves for example and crank. The guy who built mine probably sourced the rods and pistons second hand (think i remember him saying they're from a special edition scooby) sure they are forged pistons because i remember stressing i wanted them but i have no proof,other than his word
Old 12 March 2015, 03:56 AM
  #36  
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Just curious,can anybody tell me why the upgraded con rod on the right has a tapered small end,compared to the standard 2.0 wrx one on the left?
Old 12 March 2015, 08:37 AM
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The pin does not need the support on the top of the rod, as all the load is taken on the bottom of the bore, its weight that's not needed.
Old 12 March 2015, 09:25 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by scoobyJim2
Yes i agree some brand namesl parts can cost a fortune brand new but alot of stuff is probably reusable with just a clean up,like valves for example and crank. The guy who built mine probably sourced the rods and pistons second hand (think i remember him saying they're from a special edition scooby) sure they are forged pistons because i remember stressing i wanted them but i have no proof,other than his word
always a concern when that happens, may well be its totaly fine, but always a lingering doubt
Old 12 March 2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by scoobyJim2
Just curious,can anybody tell me why the upgraded con rod on the right has a tapered small end,compared to the standard 2.0 wrx one on the left?
The tapered rod is from a 2.5, the piston is shaped such that the square top rod from a 2.0 won't fit 2.5 pistons (Subaru pistons).
Old 12 March 2015, 12:41 PM
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£400 selling ? I will buy
Old 12 March 2015, 03:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by A.HitlerSTI
£400 selling ? I will buy
What a pr*ck!
Old 12 March 2015, 04:25 PM
  #42  
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Ah, this might have been the same place that told me they build engines "all the time", and they change head gaskets regularly without dropping the oil as it's a waste of money.

Oh, and you'd need a remap after fitting a cold air feed to an existing induction kit.
Old 12 March 2015, 05:07 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MOTORS S GT
The pin does not need the support on the top of the rod, as all the load is taken on the bottom of the bore, its weight that's not needed.
I did wonder if its for weight reduction 👍
Old 12 March 2015, 05:12 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Tidgy

always a concern when that happens, may well be its totaly fine, but always a lingering doubt
So far so good,touch wood! it was built over 2yrs ago now and still going well
Old 12 March 2015, 05:15 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by wms-racing

The tapered rod is from a 2.5, the piston is shaped such that the square top rod from a 2.0 won't fit 2.5 pistons (Subaru pistons).
Ok cheers,so the 2.5 rods are ok with 2.0 pistons then,or would he have had to fit 2.5 pistons too?
Old 12 March 2015, 09:26 PM
  #46  
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The flat bottomed 2.5 rods are fine with the 2.0l pistons as the rod length is the same.

Mick
Old 13 March 2015, 04:36 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by merlin24
The flat bottomed 2.5 rods are fine with the 2.0l pistons as the rod length is the same.

Mick
I have the tapered rods fitted to my 2.0 mick
Old 13 March 2015, 01:16 PM
  #48  
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I've done it cheaper, and the engine although a tiny bit smokey and piston sloppy when cold has lasted 9000 miles at 1.4 bar boost.
Total cost was less than £100.
I used a good NA bottom end, did not split it, simply gave the bores a quick hone and fired my wrx pistons in it and put my wrx heads on it. I re used the head gaskets with some hylomar. The only new bits was the oil and filter. Engine £60, oil and filter £40. Even re used the antifreeze.
Saying this that engine is now out (and wing kept as a good working spare) and I've put in a forged engine.
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