WRX upgrade path.....gulp
#31
#32
Personally I would go straight to 18g and avoid vf35.
I "upgraded" from a TD04 to a vf35 on my bugeye but to be honest I regretted doing it, I never felt the vf35 offered much more punch than my original TD04; the car gained around 40 horsepower (ran 281 on its TD04 with a prodrive sports cat and decat centre with STI up pipe, then 323 on the vf35) but not much additional torque and continued to lack the midrange and top end pull I was looking for.
The late great Simon got 300bhp out of my friend's blob WRX on its original TD04 - the hawk WRX TD04's in particular always seem to make very good figures so if 300's your aim why change without giving your current turbo a go?
A decent billet 18g (or even an SC36) will be a cracking turbo and give you decent spool with more punch, midrange and top end than a vf35, and won't be crone to the penny valve cracking most of those turbos suffer from. They're a bit more slap you in the back in terms of power delivery but I personally think it makes the car more fun to drive.
My friend's blob WRX ran one and his was easily as fast as mine up to around 60-70mph, really was rapid.
BUT....before you do all that, like someone above said, fit better brakes because if you go 300+ on 4 pots you'll likely end up in a wall or ditch somewhere as they're only good for a couple of hard stops before you cook them, regardless of what pad, disc and fluid combo you use - fine on a lighter classic, rubbish for heavier newage.
P.S. just to clarify one other point above, disconnecting the battery does not reset your ECU on a newage
I "upgraded" from a TD04 to a vf35 on my bugeye but to be honest I regretted doing it, I never felt the vf35 offered much more punch than my original TD04; the car gained around 40 horsepower (ran 281 on its TD04 with a prodrive sports cat and decat centre with STI up pipe, then 323 on the vf35) but not much additional torque and continued to lack the midrange and top end pull I was looking for.
The late great Simon got 300bhp out of my friend's blob WRX on its original TD04 - the hawk WRX TD04's in particular always seem to make very good figures so if 300's your aim why change without giving your current turbo a go?
A decent billet 18g (or even an SC36) will be a cracking turbo and give you decent spool with more punch, midrange and top end than a vf35, and won't be crone to the penny valve cracking most of those turbos suffer from. They're a bit more slap you in the back in terms of power delivery but I personally think it makes the car more fun to drive.
My friend's blob WRX ran one and his was easily as fast as mine up to around 60-70mph, really was rapid.
BUT....before you do all that, like someone above said, fit better brakes because if you go 300+ on 4 pots you'll likely end up in a wall or ditch somewhere as they're only good for a couple of hard stops before you cook them, regardless of what pad, disc and fluid combo you use - fine on a lighter classic, rubbish for heavier newage.
P.S. just to clarify one other point above, disconnecting the battery does not reset your ECU on a newage
In respect of everything else , 100% in agreement with what you said.
Simon knew he did not have long , he recomended Bob Rawle and Duncan at race Dynamix ( Who'm Im informed also has his old kit ).
#34
the "big 16g" type is the one I got off ebay, for a turbo that everyone told me would empty it's pants in 6 months I've been more than surprised by it. It's absolutely trashed my standard clutch though so waiting on a pink box to go in before I can have any more fun times. Turbo has been spot on though, spools well and holds boost all day long.
#35
the "big 16g" type is the one I got off ebay, for a turbo that everyone told me would empty it's pants in 6 months I've been more than surprised by it. It's absolutely trashed my standard clutch though so waiting on a pink box to go in before I can have any more fun times. Turbo has been spot on though, spools well and holds boost all day long.
Last edited by boosted; 26 June 2015 at 11:22 AM.
#36
#37
With regards to the turbo I'm back to the drawing board scratching my head. Could someone put a couple links on the turbos they recommend to buy billet, td05, seen the sc36 its over 1k ouch ha. Struggling to find a mint vf35/34
#38
A front entry converted 16G off a classic should run 330-340 depending on what else you're doing. They can be picked up for £100 or less sometimes.
I've got one on my 2.1 and its making at least 340bhp and 335 lbs if not more.
I've got one on my 2.1 and its making at least 340bhp and 335 lbs if not more.
#39
any billet turbo will be better performing than a non-billet counterpart, but they will get a much higher pricetag. It depends what your end goal is, many people have fitted a TD05 16g or VF3x and been more than happy with the 300+ hp results. Just pick the best one you can find for the money you have.
VF's tend to crack the housing and in most cases it's grand in, in some cases it will cause boost creep and it will need to be repaired or replaced. The TD05's can be rebuilt but as I got mine for less around 200 quid brand new I'll probably just upgrade to an 18g if I ever get any problems with mine.
You can also follow the andy forrest path:
http://andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58901.html
or checkout the turbo thread on NASIOC to compare the different turbos:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1141476
VF's tend to crack the housing and in most cases it's grand in, in some cases it will cause boost creep and it will need to be repaired or replaced. The TD05's can be rebuilt but as I got mine for less around 200 quid brand new I'll probably just upgrade to an 18g if I ever get any problems with mine.
You can also follow the andy forrest path:
http://andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58901.html
or checkout the turbo thread on NASIOC to compare the different turbos:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1141476
Last edited by bludgod; 26 June 2015 at 11:36 AM.
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