Which coilovers blob widetrack?
#31
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In answer to the original question of which coilovers to go for, i would say none. On a car that will spend 99% of it's time on uk's potholed roads you have to be mad to put up with the ride quality or distinct lack thereof for the small benefit you'll receive on the very occasional track day. New shocks and a decent set of springs is where my money would go if on a tight budget and want to maintain any semblance of compliance on uk roads, then look at other options such as poly bushing, adjustable roll bars, top mounts, geometry and tyres which will give you different set up options when you go to the odd track day and enable you to make adjustments as and when required. Otherwise get your money out, do all of the above and more as well as getting yourself a set of ohlins. Good coilovers cost, even then most need a refirb after a couple of years, they also require to be set up properly by someone that really knows what they are doing.
Last edited by jebi se; 05 November 2015 at 12:39 AM.
#32
There is very little choice, if not none when it comes to shock absorbers on the widetrack sti, I think pedders are in the process of making some but for now we are left with used/reconditioned or coilovers. I guess most people won't pay the £350+vat per corner for shocks off subaru!
#33
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Here is a picture of the MeisterR Zeta-R coilovers for the GD just to help you visualise what is in the box.
The front comes with camber adjustable pillow ball top mount, this will give you better control over your geometry as well as aid steering response.
The rear comes with a rubber isolated press steel top mount.
This top mount are designed to reduce suspension noise that plague Subaru on the GD chassis.
The coilovers are pre-assembled ready to bolt onto the car.
There is no need to re-use any old parts, so it is much quicker for installation also.
What that mean is there are less chances of things going wrong, and installation labor cost should be less as it should be a quicker job.
Jerrick
The front comes with camber adjustable pillow ball top mount, this will give you better control over your geometry as well as aid steering response.
The rear comes with a rubber isolated press steel top mount.
This top mount are designed to reduce suspension noise that plague Subaru on the GD chassis.
The coilovers are pre-assembled ready to bolt onto the car.
There is no need to re-use any old parts, so it is much quicker for installation also.
What that mean is there are less chances of things going wrong, and installation labor cost should be less as it should be a quicker job.
Jerrick
#34
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There is very little choice, if not none when it comes to shock absorbers on the widetrack sti, I think pedders are in the process of making some but for now we are left with used/reconditioned or coilovers. I guess most people won't pay the £350+vat per corner for shocks off subaru!
A full set plus Springs will cost around the same as decent coilovers.
Last edited by InTurbo; 05 November 2015 at 01:26 PM.
#37
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In answer to the original question of which coilovers to go for, i would say none. On a car that will spend 99% of it's time on uk's potholed roads you have to be mad to put up with the ride quality or distinct lack thereof for the small benefit you'll receive on the very occasional track day. New shocks and a decent set of springs is where my money would go if on a tight budget and want to maintain any semblance of compliance on uk roads, then look at other options such as poly bushing, adjustable roll bars, top mounts, geometry and tyres which will give you different set up options when you go to the odd track day and enable you to make adjustments as and when required. Otherwise get your money out, do all of the above and more as well as getting yourself a set of ohlins. Good coilovers cost, even then most need a refirb after a couple of years, they also require to be set up properly by someone that really knows what they are doing.
I will agree that UK B roads , are not as good as the ones I have in the hills of South Germany (I'm spoilt ) but listen up if you want "compliant" suspension you should go buy a Renault 12. seats fold flat too , very compliant
Poly bushing by the way stiffens things up, and allows you to predict and aim better the car to the Apex. After that the quickest cheapest way to get an Impreza handling better means you have "to be able" to measure it geometrically. First fit some new tires, I suggest Nankang NSR 2's on 215 45 17 (keeps some compliance in the tire to road height and the unsprung weight down) drop it an inch and half by using shorter springs, dial in a bit of neg camber 1 - 2 deg is enough ( the std leg camber is adjustable with the standard offset bolts ) the lowering springs do not have to be "higher" rated and if your standard shocks are not knocking yet (count yourself lucky) then go find a B road that's been repaired within the last 5 years and you will have good fun for 10 mins for under a grand. To go longer than 10 mins go find yourself some larger brakes/discs sintered pads that still fit inside the 17s and you will be safe while doing so , but another grand down. that's life.
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#39
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The last sentence above was the one I found the most reasonable.
I will agree that UK B roads , are not as good as the ones I have in the hills of South Germany (I'm spoilt ) but listen up if you want "compliant" suspension you should go buy a Renault 12. seats fold flat too , very compliant
Poly bushing by the way stiffens things up, and allows you to predict and aim better the car to the Apex. After that the quickest cheapest way to get an Impreza handling better means you have "to be able" to measure it geometrically. First fit some new tires, I suggest Nankang NSR 2's on 215 45 17 (keeps some compliance in the tire to road height and the unsprung weight down) drop it an inch and half by using shorter springs, dial in a bit of neg camber 1 - 2 deg is enough ( the std leg camber is adjustable with the standard offset bolts ) the lowering springs do not have to be "higher" rated and if your standard shocks are not knocking yet (count yourself lucky) then go find a B road that's been repaired within the last 5 years and you will have good fun for 10 mins for under a grand. To go longer than 10 mins go find yourself some larger brakes/discs sintered pads that still fit inside the 17s and you will be safe while doing so , but another grand down. that's life.
I will agree that UK B roads , are not as good as the ones I have in the hills of South Germany (I'm spoilt ) but listen up if you want "compliant" suspension you should go buy a Renault 12. seats fold flat too , very compliant
Poly bushing by the way stiffens things up, and allows you to predict and aim better the car to the Apex. After that the quickest cheapest way to get an Impreza handling better means you have "to be able" to measure it geometrically. First fit some new tires, I suggest Nankang NSR 2's on 215 45 17 (keeps some compliance in the tire to road height and the unsprung weight down) drop it an inch and half by using shorter springs, dial in a bit of neg camber 1 - 2 deg is enough ( the std leg camber is adjustable with the standard offset bolts ) the lowering springs do not have to be "higher" rated and if your standard shocks are not knocking yet (count yourself lucky) then go find a B road that's been repaired within the last 5 years and you will have good fun for 10 mins for under a grand. To go longer than 10 mins go find yourself some larger brakes/discs sintered pads that still fit inside the 17s and you will be safe while doing so , but another grand down. that's life.
On the bumpy off camber poor quality roads we have in the uk compliance is everything when pushing on, otherwise you just end up with a car that skips and twitches everywhere, which is not conducive to making rapid progress.
Last edited by jebi se; 05 November 2015 at 09:47 PM.
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A car with a controlled compliant set up with good bump travel and droop will work with the road imperfections inspire you with confidence and be a lot quicker than a car with a stiff set up.
Crashing and bumping of every bump and undulation on a uk road isn't fun or going to give you the confidence to enjoy your car.
Been there done it!
#41
We engineer our own specs, and therefore how the suspension ride and perform will be different to anything else.
One of the most important aspect in how a suspension feel is the "cracking pressure".
That is the initial point where the first shims "cracks" open inside the damper.
By having a sensible cracking pressure while still producing the needed peak force, you can have a suspension that is both compliant as well as responsive on road tyre on the road.
On the flip side, you want to have a higher cracking pressure while on track.
As this higher cracking pressure put force onto the tyres making it generate more heat and traction; it also produce that "crisp" turn in that you want when on spirited / track driving condition.
You can engineer both of this by designing the shim stack and the damping adjustment to work together.
This is something MeisterR look into when designing our spec, and it is what makes us different from anyone.
Hope that helps answer your questions.
MeisterR may look the same outside to other brands, but the inside is different, the ride will be different, and the performance will be different.
Jerrick
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#43
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Then sell the Tein springs that come with them, and get these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...YAAMXQ1ZhTe5qD
Just in case anyone is wondering - the rear springs, in the spring set listed above, only fit Bilsteins.
#44
Then sell the Tein springs that come with them, and get these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...YAAMXQ1ZhTe5qD
Just in case anyone is wondering - the rear springs, in the spring set listed above, only fit Bilsteins.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...YAAMXQ1ZhTe5qD
Just in case anyone is wondering - the rear springs, in the spring set listed above, only fit Bilsteins.
#45
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Honestly mate you really need to snap these up before someone else does.
#46
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And to complete the set-up - wide-tracks only:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-PRO...gAAOSw3xJVeBEZ
Some more rb320 springs and struts here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/full-cars-...good-spec.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-PRO...gAAOSw3xJVeBEZ
Some more rb320 springs and struts here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/full-cars-...good-spec.html
Last edited by 2pot; 06 November 2015 at 07:04 PM.
#47
And to complete the set-up - wide-tracks only:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-PRO...gAAOSw3xJVeBEZ
Some more rb320 springs and struts here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/full-cars-...good-spec.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-PRO...gAAOSw3xJVeBEZ
Some more rb320 springs and struts here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/full-cars-...good-spec.html
What about the eibach springs then? Are the rb320 springs still better?
#48
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I'd hazard a guess that he got the eibach springs, because the rb320 springs sit, intentionally, high at the rear.
A, relatively, higher rear ride height, moves the roll centre rearward, increasing rear roll resistance.
That, in turn, makes the front end roll more - helping turn-in response and reducing understeer, without the use of stiffer bars.
You want the smallest bars possible, on a road car, to avoid 'roll-rock'.
Roll-rock:
If the spring rate is relatively low and the sta bar is too stiff, a suspension movement, initially, occurring on only one side of the vehicle, will be transmitted to the other side, inducing an unsettling 'roll-rock' motion.
RB320 - the rear height changes with fuel load, but you get the idea:
You really need to PM 'InTurbo'
And/or read this:
https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...-uk-roads.html
#51
Have you considered the S204 set up? You can import them as I consider my old S204 to be the best handling road car I have ever owned.
Last edited by S204Darren; 06 November 2015 at 10:51 PM.
#53
Just to update I went ahead with the rb320's from mattyb.
Is there a guide to replacing the suspension on here? Im pretty confident at doing it and tbh its looks really straight forward as the actual struts come off whole I presume?
A guide always helps though!
Is there a guide to replacing the suspension on here? Im pretty confident at doing it and tbh its looks really straight forward as the actual struts come off whole I presume?
A guide always helps though!
#54
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Page 3 of this article
http://pcadynamics.com/app/download/...he+Insider.pdf
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