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Old 27 October 2015, 02:16 PM
  #31  
Swiss tone
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I see what you mean pal and I'm finding I'm tuning in on noises instead of just enjoying the car if you know what I mean.

Are you a mapper btw?
So do you think removing the induction kit and back to stock with k&n panel filter wouldn't make much difference to the flutter due to the bigger down pipe?

I am really tempted to do this so a bit quieter but as you say, I don't know if the MAF scaling has been altered. AFR's have been mentioned, is this fuelling?
Is it really bad to just change it and not have it checked on a dyno or map tweaked? What's the impact, running lean?

Cash is a bit tight at the mo which doesn't help. If the only way is a dyno check, is a best to have a run as it is then change to air box and have a comparison run?
I can't get my head around that there is that much difference in air flow to make such a difference but I'm not a tuner!
Help!
Old 27 October 2015, 02:31 PM
  #32  
bludgod
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yeh - go spend more time enjoying

I don't know if I'd brand myself as a mapper, but i have been known to map and its kind of an extreme hobby at this stage

If anything - the k&n kit would flow more air than the standard box, so returning to standard would make you a little richer (if the scaling was adjusted) and should slow the airflow and reduce the flutter a little for you.

The MAF scaling is a big component of fuelling, the car reads X amount of voltage from the maf sensor and looks up on the scale to see that voltage equals an amount of air grams. When the ECU knows the amount of air it's sucked in, it knows how long to open the injectors for to meet the requested fuel target.

I would recommend you get the fuelling checked before and after (for comparison) - most shops aren't looking mad money for a quick power run on the rollers and that will show you if your fuelling is looking good or not after the updates.


Really if you haven't got cash to throw at the car you'd be better leaving it how it is and how it was mapped for though and just drive on at it. If you've no faith in the map that's on there then save up for a full remap/dyno check and you can stick the standard airbox on at that time.
Old 27 October 2015, 03:24 PM
  #33  
Swiss tone
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Hey that's great advice and you know your stuff! Thanks for that. I know a power run isn't that expensive but I know I'll prob end up having a re map. As you say best wait until have the funds for a proper job. It's probably set up well and what most people are aiming for so should just be happy should I! Lol.
Old 27 October 2015, 10:45 PM
  #34  
Swiss tone
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Omg, I was just doing a routine check and checked engine oil. The seller got it serviced by Subaru main dealer in London a couple of weeks ago just before I picked it up.
Looks like way to much oil in there. The car was cold this morning and level ground in the garage so the level should be at the F hole mark. It's actually a good bit over the C notch 'hot' expansion mark!
I know the tube can give an inaccurate reading but I've wiped and checked several times and it's at that mark.
Can't believe Subaru have done this and if I hadn't checked it could have been bad.
Going to tell them what I think!!
I know to much oil can put strain on the crank oil seals but could this have caused any damage in the few weeks I've had it? Going to drain some out ASAP.
Old 27 October 2015, 11:17 PM
  #35  
bludgod
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wouldn't worry too much, plenty on here would go slightly over for a track day event so chances are good you'll be totally fine. I know my 2.5 STI likes to play funny sometimes so I have to check the oil when its dead cold and again when it's hotter just to be double sure!
Old 27 October 2015, 11:33 PM
  #36  
Swiss tone
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I hope so! This is the level I think it's at. Oil is clean and clear so doesn't show up but the wooden pointer is where it is cold. Seems rediculous to me and fuming with main dealer. Not good in my view so fingers crossed eh just caught it in time?
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Old 01 November 2015, 12:48 PM
  #37  
Swiss tone
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Drained a bit of oil out then decided to do a complete oil and filter change while under there. Just replaced with Castrol Edge 5W40 full synthetic. Think it had shell helix in it, personal choice I guess over the 5W30 but took the advice from a couple of places. Good choice??
Old 21 November 2015, 04:53 PM
  #38  
Swiss tone
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Just an update for anyone following this thread!

Changed back to stock air box with K&N panel filter. Back to quiet and turbo flutter/surge just about gone. Check engine light instantly came on so expect MAF has registered the difference in airflow or least I'm hoping just that.

Now needs fuelling adjusting I think so booked in with Duncan at Racedynamix for a full dyno re-map. Current ECUTEK map has a license lock and too far to go back to Andy Forrest so the only logical thing I guess unless anyone got any other ideas?

Cheers for all the input
Old 21 November 2015, 06:50 PM
  #39  
Linksfahrer
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Originally Posted by Swiss tone
Just an update for anyone following this thread!

Changed back to stock air box with K&N panel filter. Back to quiet and turbo flutter/surge just about gone. Check engine light instantly came on so expect MAF has registered the difference in airflow or least I'm hoping just that.

Now needs fuelling adjusting I think so booked in with Duncan at Racedynamix for a full dyno re-map. Current ECUTEK map has a license lock and too far to go back to Andy Forrest so the only logical thing I guess unless anyone got any other ideas?

Cheers for all the input
This has been an interesting read , and for me the most interesting will be seeing the power curves on the Standard airbox , would be a good piece of info if you could put these up when Duncan is done. im rather hoping for you that it makes little or no difference.

I use a standard air box for the same reasons you do, so it would be nice to know so I can eliminate Induction from my weakest links. (My MY05 WRX is on PPP/delete Upcat /16g , so I don't make the same power you do. )
Old 22 November 2015, 12:35 PM
  #40  
Swiss tone
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Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
This has been an interesting read , and for me the most interesting will be seeing the power curves on the Standard airbox , would be a good piece of info if you could put these up when Duncan is done. im rather hoping for you that it makes little or no difference.

I use a standard air box for the same reasons you do, so it would be nice to know so I can eliminate Induction from my weakest links. (My MY05 WRX is on PPP/delete Upcat /16g , so I don't make the same power you do. )
Will do mate, Duncan reckons the standard air box is good with a K&N panel filter and shouldn't make much difference but we'll see. Dyno's do vary and can be fiddled but I'd be happy if around the 340 mark as that seems realistic bearing in mind the stock WR1 output being pretty good to start with. I'm more interested in how it drives/feels as that's what's important eh
Old 08 December 2015, 03:00 PM
  #41  
Swiss tone
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Well, bit of info to finish the thread.

Went to RCM yesterday and Duncan of Racedynamix did the re-map and set up on the rollers.

Had the fuelling checked after the induction kit removal. The flutter mainly went when i re-fitted the original airbox but I still wanted it all checked and any improvements from a re-map.

It made 324 on the dyno running on a high boost (1.4 ish bar) map and RCM full 3" exhaust. I had an original print out of 342 but that was a different dyno so it seems about right.

He said most stock cars actually dont quite make 300 and don't make the factory output (or at least on this roller). Could have been fiddled if i wanted a 'who has the biggest competion'!

He improved the torque (think 325?).
Happy bunny now and drives much better and seems faster.

(Another guy running a 2002 Sti that i think had JDM ECU and headers made about 305 BHP).

Last edited by Swiss tone; 08 December 2015 at 03:02 PM.
Old 08 December 2015, 03:10 PM
  #42  
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can't finish a thread without a dyno printout and a video of you on the rollers?!
Old 09 December 2015, 12:50 PM
  #43  
Swiss tone
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Unfortunately the dyno was closed off while running for health and safety so I could only watch through a window. It wasn't worth filming through that.
I will post some pics and some nice ones of 'gobstopper2', 22B and a couple of P1's.
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