Wide band AFR readings
10 December 2015, 10:40 PM
#65
Should flick about 14.6-14.8:1 though, maybe needs another calibration. My car runs steady at those AFR's on cruise. Still your displaying on the safe side showing .4 lean (so if your car is tuned at 11:1 it will display 11.4:1)
11 December 2015, 11:46 PM
#67
Not sure your getting a true AFR of 15.4 at cruise, your lamdba should be correcting it to close to stoich (14.7) unless your running open loop i guess ??
12.3 on full chat is quite lean as well but if standard ECU probably right
My MTX at cruise fluctuates rapidly from 14.3 to 14.7 until over 3000 ( out of lamdba )
12.3 on full chat is quite lean as well but if standard ECU probably right
My MTX at cruise fluctuates rapidly from 14.3 to 14.7 until over 3000 ( out of lamdba )
12 December 2015, 10:24 AM
#68
Not sure your getting a true AFR of 15.4 at cruise, your lamdba should be correcting it to close to stoich (14.7) unless your running open loop i guess ??
12.3 on full chat is quite lean as well but if standard ECU probably right
My MTX at cruise fluctuates rapidly from 14.3 to 14.7 until over 3000 ( out of lamdba )
12.3 on full chat is quite lean as well but if standard ECU probably right
My MTX at cruise fluctuates rapidly from 14.3 to 14.7 until over 3000 ( out of lamdba )
Took it out again yday to re calibrate and seems to be working fine again.. Has to be a problem somewhere else
Martin
12 December 2015, 10:55 AM
#69
Could be how it's wired up? How have you done yours?
It's possible you are getting interference as this is how it's describes in the instructions....
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.
It's possible you are getting interference as this is how it's describes in the instructions....
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.
12 December 2015, 01:14 PM
#70
Could be how it's wired up? How have you done yours?
It's possible you are getting interference as this is how it's describes in the instructions....
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.
It's possible you are getting interference as this is how it's describes in the instructions....
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier.
I think it was wired to ignition though, could this be why the readings are so off?
How has everyone else wired there's? Maybe I need to rip it all out and start again with a relay
Martin
12 December 2015, 02:37 PM
#71
Mine's on a classic,I was going to run a separate circuit direct from the battery with an inline 5A fuse and relay but when I took the trim off from under the steering column I found an old parrot hands free kit which had its own circuit,the hands free kit was no good as someone had ragged out the control and mic so ended up using this to power my lc2 controller,I've had it in for a few weeks now and it runs fine.
12 December 2015, 07:16 PM
#72
Just poked a live and earth spade into the *** lighter wiring, not a problem at all, the power source isn't that fussy, the internal wiring from sensor to gauge has to be excellent though, but usually your not messing with this
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