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Godspeed 4pot 335mm disc upgrade refurb...

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Old 12 May 2016, 09:20 AM
  #31  
alcazar
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Originally Posted by modrich
when you say 'normal' steel do you mean mild steel? 304/316 stainless has higher tensile strength than MS, but lower than high tensile steel. Don't see any issues to be honest.
Dunno, but I was always taught not to use stainless in any position where it might be stressed, due to lower ts.

I have replaced loads of bolts and screws on mine, from those holding the rad to those holding the side-skirts, but would draw back from brakes....
Old 12 May 2016, 12:44 PM
  #32  
modrich
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Ian can you confirm the bolt spec you use and tightening torque just for peace of mind please?
Old 12 May 2016, 01:18 PM
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rb5 stu
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This seems like an awful lot of work to still have subaru four pots.
Old 12 May 2016, 01:32 PM
  #34  
modrich
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It's not a lot of work if you enjoy doing it. Plenty of people on here enjoy putting time and money into these cars when they could have something newer and better
Old 13 May 2016, 10:31 AM
  #35  
alcazar
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I agree, and the Subaru 4-pots are pretty good with decent sized discs.

As a younger man, I enjoyed completely stripping my mountain bike, de-greasing and cleaning every part and rebuilding with the correct grease/oil etc. What did I gain? Satisfaction.
Old 13 May 2016, 10:35 AM
  #36  
modrich
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...and a reliable well looked after bike, like my wagon.
Old 21 May 2016, 08:59 AM
  #37  
pabs02
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Hi mate, following this thread with interest as the most disappointing thing about my wagon atm is the brakes! Got a standard 05 WRX and looking to overhaul calipers/replace and improve or upgrade depending on cost.
Not sure which direction to go in as a set of brembos will be around 750 but then I'll need new wheels so they fit and all of a sudden I'm looking at about a 2k which is only slightly less than I paid for the car!
Will be fitting braided hoses and replacing fluid at the very least to see if that improves the sponge that currently replaces my middle pedal. Also read something about a bracket you can fit by the reservoir (or something) that makes a big difference too?
Not looking for massive performance gains as this is my daily hack and a bit too shabby to justify massive spends tbh, just want a bit more confidence when I'm approaching a roundabout at speed
Old 21 May 2016, 09:05 AM
  #38  
alcazar
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You could start with better discs and more aggressive pads?

Also fit braided brake lines and the "brake stopper" you mention that stiffens the pedal.

If the middle pedal is spongy, try changing the brake fluid...any idea when it was last done?
Old 21 May 2016, 09:33 PM
  #39  
modrich
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I wasn't 'unhappy' with my brakes just fancied trying some bigger ones that work with the std WRX alloys with discs that fill the 18s better. As alcazar says there's plenty of options that improve the standard brakes and are perfectly fine for my PPP 260bhp.

See my thread for all options mentioned above: https://www.scoobynet.com/1004847-fo...l#post11480119

Last edited by modrich; 21 May 2016 at 09:34 PM.
Old 21 May 2016, 09:41 PM
  #40  
modrich
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also this post on my spongy brakes: https://www.scoobynet.com/1004847-fo...l#post11500506
Old 22 May 2016, 09:00 AM
  #41  
pabs02
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Originally Posted by alcazar
You could start with better discs and more aggressive pads?

Also fit braided brake lines and the "brake stopper" you mention that stiffens the pedal.

If the middle pedal is spongy, try changing the brake fluid...any idea when it was last done?
No idea when it was last done but will be changing/flushing through at the same time as fitting braided hoses and will also go for the brake stopper mod... prob in black though sorry modrich (thanks for the links)
Will see how much difference this makes before making a decision on where to go next with refurbished calipers/discs pads etc. Got a new set of rear discs with the car so might as well throw those on while I'm inspecting the rest of the system
What brake fluid would you guys recommend?
Old 29 May 2016, 11:02 AM
  #42  
paulhills
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You would think stainless steel is stronger, but its design is actually more for corrosion resistance (and looking pretty :-)
Alot of the standard 'steel' bolts on engines are heat treated (8:8 bolts) and have a tensile strength of 828 N/mm2 (some may be even stronger 10:9, 12:9 etc)
A304 stainless steel bolts (marked A2-70) are far more corrossion resistant but only offer 700 N/mm2 so you do have to be careful when swapping out bolts for stainless steel versions.
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