Coilovers what a waste of time
11 March 2016, 09:47 AM
#31
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No because your car would then be sitting on the bumpstops, The problem is your wheels are the wrong ofset and a bit to wide for a classic.
If your having to roll the arches and put crazy camber angles on to make them fit then it's obvious there wrong for the car.
If your after a show car then go for it, But you want a good handling car then maybe it's time for a rethink.
If your having to roll the arches and put crazy camber angles on to make them fit then it's obvious there wrong for the car.
If your after a show car then go for it, But you want a good handling car then maybe it's time for a rethink.
11 March 2016, 10:40 AM
#32
TBH you are going to struggle to get anything like a decent ride/handling compromise on a classic with 18x8 rims.
17x7.5 is the largest rim that I would personally run on a classic, and if you can live with the Subaru four-pots 16x7 is better still.
17x7.5 is the largest rim that I would personally run on a classic, and if you can live with the Subaru four-pots 16x7 is better still.
11 March 2016, 12:14 PM
#33
Prodrive had an optional 7.5 x 18 et53 wheel, with 225/35 tyres. But they sometimes needed the arch adjusting, due to manufacturing tolerances. Tyres are also often, considerably, wider than the advertised width.
They also used a stiff damper, the kyb inverted, so that slowed down weight transfer.
In your situation, changing the bump stops, and/or using the clip-ons (which are a great tuning tool), you'll be limiting suspension travel, to cure wheel to arch contact.
Stiffening the rear bump stops, too much, will result in terminal oversteer.
You can't, at this stage, use stiffer springs, as your current dampers couldn't control a higher rate.
As has been mentioned above, don't let your wheels/tyres dictate your camber settings - unless you're prioritizing looks.
I also prefer 16"/17" wheels on a classic.
They also used a stiff damper, the kyb inverted, so that slowed down weight transfer.
In your situation, changing the bump stops, and/or using the clip-ons (which are a great tuning tool), you'll be limiting suspension travel, to cure wheel to arch contact.
Stiffening the rear bump stops, too much, will result in terminal oversteer.
You can't, at this stage, use stiffer springs, as your current dampers couldn't control a higher rate.
As has been mentioned above, don't let your wheels/tyres dictate your camber settings - unless you're prioritizing looks.
I also prefer 16"/17" wheels on a classic.
Last edited by 2pot; 11 March 2016 at 12:32 PM.
20 March 2016, 08:38 PM
#34
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21 March 2016, 06:57 PM
#36
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I gave exe-tc a call today and spoke to a very nice chap, what he said was they could build me a set of coilovers from a set of there "Rally spec dampers" but adjusted for road/track use.
However this comes at a cost at between £4 - £5k.
They have just started to offer a rebuilding service for there old road kits that they used to sell.
The guy was still very helpful when i told him that i wasn't in the market to spend £5k on coilovers.
He told me to try a company called Intrax Racing Suspension.
http://tech4.nl/?cat=productdetail&p...rs_1K2&lang=EN
Last edited by Ascottie75; 21 March 2016 at 07:29 PM.
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