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Old 05 April 2016 | 11:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Steve Whitehorn
Silverline Synionic is little known but is probably the best stuff you can put in your subaru. The post on March the 10th outlines why and as you can see some pretty serious cars use it.

For example ...
““Synionic Products Are Designed To Withstand Pressures In Excess Of 220,000 P.S.I. Which When Compared To That Of A Race Spec Synthetic, Being Approximately 6,500 P.S.I. ““

Linky here....

https://www.facebook.com/Silverlineukltd/

Dont get me wrong. Millers , Fuchs and all that is good stuff and I have personally used them both with no problems. It is just this stuff seems to be a step up.
That's a good read

Any links to prices or suppliers?
Old 05 April 2016 | 11:55 PM
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It doesn't mix, it only breaks down at very high temps, it wasn't old stock and if you shake it and the blobs get into the mix good luck when it clogs where it shouldn't. Buy what you feel happy with but never buying millers again.

Last edited by 53; 05 April 2016 at 11:56 PM.
Old 06 April 2016 | 08:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
Was the oil at fault?
Spun a shell on number 4 big end so might just be a coincidence but put me off using it again for life.

Back onto motul for me as it has served me well for years!
Old 06 April 2016 | 08:34 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BoozyDave
That's a good read

Any links to prices or suppliers?
Hi
I have been putting it in a big power track car and giving it death and it is working really well, I have seen a drop in oil temps.

The best way to make contact and have chat about what you need is call
Ray on this number 01304 448520
(very friendly chap)

Cheers
Steve
Old 06 April 2016 | 10:43 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ScoobP1
Spun a shell on number 4 big end so might just be a coincidence but put me off using it again for life.

Back onto motul for me as it has served me well for years!
So not necessarily the oil then.
Old 06 April 2016 | 11:14 AM
  #36  
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Hi,

What grade of Silverline Synionic to use in a standard classic and where to buy ?

Steve
Old 06 April 2016 | 11:46 AM
  #37  
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Hi Guys,

I own Silverline (Oil Brand) and am happy to assist with any questions people may have.
You can check our web site www.silverline-uk .com or our facebook page where there are many write ups.

Our track car (315 bhp) is a 125k mile engine / gearbox and axle. I bought it from a Scrapper and it was decided to use it to trial the oil. 3 years on and 3000 miles of hard track use (Steve can confirm as he has chased and been chased by it many times at Lydden) the car is still on the same engine. We run it on 10w40 and change the oil once a year (No point changing every session as it proves nothing).

When Simon Roe mapped the car last (just before he passed away) he couldn't believe how the readings were still identical to the year previous.

Charlie at SRR uses the oil in his legacy including track use, Duncan Graham uses our oil in his own car.

All I can say is that it does what it says on the tin. There are no additives such as ptfe, molybdenum disulphide etc, It is surface modifying technology in where the lubricant bonds itself to the metal surfaces. It has been well tested in motorsport over the years. Bo Nielsen won Time Attack in his Astra running the oil. He now runs it in his Porsche. Will Watson runs it in his Astra Time attack car. RCM have used it. Peo R Subaru Team have used it. Isuzu D Max rally truck has used it.

Oil is a very personal choice.
Many people swear by a certain brand because they were told by someone else it was good or they have had good results from their choice. That, truly is where personal choice comes into it. When you start looking into technical aspects of the oil makeup and its abilities then you start to see differences. Standard cars are probably fine on 99% of the oils out there. However, if you push hard or drive hard then "peace of mind" comes into play knowing the lifeblood of your engine is doing the job of protecting that you need.

With regard to keeping engines clean. Under extreme heat conditions synthetics (from personal experience of changing blown engines) tend to bake their additives to the inside of the engine blocks (Brown residue). This can cause its own issues. I our track car (standard cooling system) has seen on track oil temps of 130 degrees. At the end of the year it is still perfectly clean and viscous. More and more Subaru owners are moving to our oil and feedback has been excellent to date.

At the end of the day. Oil is your choice and it's your hard earnt being used for your hobby / passion. As I said. For every day use 99% (Including supermarket brands) will do what you want them to do.

Please feel free to email me via the web site or pm via facebook or here. Rather than clog this thread with questions.
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Old 06 April 2016 | 12:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Blue by You
Thanks for sticking your head above the parapet Guy.
What would your best guess be on this point though?
Its a difficult one not knowing what additive it is there thats fallen out or why. It will need to be tested. The oil may perform just fine without it, but then again it might not.

Personally if I had purchased the facebook posters oil I would not be happy as it is not cheap stuff. I would not expect additive drop out if it has been stored correctly and not too old. I would go back to who I purchased it from for a replacement or alternative as the contract of sale is with them. An then insist that this is taken up with Millers and for them to take it seriously and get answers. That is what we would do here anyway.

Cheers

Guy
Old 06 April 2016 | 12:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
So not necessarily the oil then.
In our experience it rarely is. Oil is often the first thing to be blamed. In the cases I have seen, as long as it is the correct quality and viscosity for the intended application it was never the oil that caused the failure.

Cheers

Guy
Old 06 April 2016 | 12:42 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by rayc21
Hi Guys,

I own Silverline (Oil Brand) and am happy to assist with any questions people may have.
You can check our web site www.silverline-uk .com or our facebook page where there are many write ups.

Our track car (315 bhp) is a 125k mile engine / gearbox and axle. I bought it from a Scrapper and it was decided to use it to trial the oil. 3 years on and 3000 miles of hard track use (Steve can confirm as he has chased and been chased by it many times at Lydden) the car is still on the same engine. We run it on 10w40 and change the oil once a year (No point changing every session as it proves nothing).

When Simon Roe mapped the car last (just before he passed away) he couldn't believe how the readings were still identical to the year previous.

Charlie at SRR uses the oil in his legacy including track use, Duncan Graham uses our oil in his own car.

All I can say is that it does what it says on the tin. There are no additives such as ptfe, molybdenum disulphide etc, It is surface modifying technology in where the lubricant bonds itself to the metal surfaces. It has been well tested in motorsport over the years. Bo Nielsen won Time Attack in his Astra running the oil. He now runs it in his Porsche. Will Watson runs it in his Astra Time attack car. RCM have used it. Peo R Subaru Team have used it. Isuzu D Max rally truck has used it.

Oil is a very personal choice.
Many people swear by a certain brand because they were told by someone else it was good or they have had good results from their choice. That, truly is where personal choice comes into it. When you start looking into technical aspects of the oil makeup and its abilities then you start to see differences. Standard cars are probably fine on 99% of the oils out there. However, if you push hard or drive hard then "peace of mind" comes into play knowing the lifeblood of your engine is doing the job of protecting that you need.

With regard to keeping engines clean. Under extreme heat conditions synthetics (from personal experience of changing blown engines) tend to bake their additives to the inside of the engine blocks (Brown residue). This can cause its own issues. I our track car (standard cooling system) has seen on track oil temps of 130 degrees. At the end of the year it is still perfectly clean and viscous. More and more Subaru owners are moving to our oil and feedback has been excellent to date.

At the end of the day. Oil is your choice and it's your hard earnt being used for your hobby / passion. As I said. For every day use 99% (Including supermarket brands) will do what you want them to do.

Please feel free to email me via the web site or pm via facebook or here. Rather than clog this thread with questions.
Is this the same Synionic that was once under the Prolong brand?

Cheers

Guy
Old 06 April 2016 | 03:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by rayc21
Hi Guys,

I own Silverline (Oil Brand) and am happy to assist with any questions people may have.
You can check our web site www.silverline-uk .com or our facebook page where there are many write ups.

Our track car (315 bhp) is a 125k mile engine / gearbox and axle. I bought it from a Scrapper and it was decided to use it to trial the oil. 3 years on and 3000 miles of hard track use (Steve can confirm as he has chased and been chased by it many times at Lydden) the car is still on the same engine. We run it on 10w40 and change the oil once a year (No point changing every session as it proves nothing).

When Simon Roe mapped the car last (just before he passed away) he couldn't believe how the readings were still identical to the year previous.

Charlie at SRR uses the oil in his legacy including track use, Duncan Graham uses our oil in his own car.

All I can say is that it does what it says on the tin. There are no additives such as ptfe, molybdenum disulphide etc, It is surface modifying technology in where the lubricant bonds itself to the metal surfaces. It has been well tested in motorsport over the years. Bo Nielsen won Time Attack in his Astra running the oil. He now runs it in his Porsche. Will Watson runs it in his Astra Time attack car. RCM have used it. Peo R Subaru Team have used it. Isuzu D Max rally truck has used it.

Oil is a very personal choice.
Many people swear by a certain brand because they were told by someone else it was good or they have had good results from their choice. That, truly is where personal choice comes into it. When you start looking into technical aspects of the oil makeup and its abilities then you start to see differences. Standard cars are probably fine on 99% of the oils out there. However, if you push hard or drive hard then "peace of mind" comes into play knowing the lifeblood of your engine is doing the job of protecting that you need.

With regard to keeping engines clean. Under extreme heat conditions synthetics (from personal experience of changing blown engines) tend to bake their additives to the inside of the engine blocks (Brown residue). This can cause its own issues. I our track car (standard cooling system) has seen on track oil temps of 130 degrees. At the end of the year it is still perfectly clean and viscous. More and more Subaru owners are moving to our oil and feedback has been excellent to date.

At the end of the day. Oil is your choice and it's your hard earnt being used for your hobby / passion. As I said. For every day use 99% (Including supermarket brands) will do what you want them to do.

Please feel free to email me via the web site or pm via facebook or here. Rather than clog this thread with questions.
Nice speaking to you Ray and I look forward to receiving my oil!

Very very helpful guy anyone on here do not hesitate to speak to him he couldn't be happier to help!

Thanks buddy
Old 06 April 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #42  
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Personally I will continue to use the millers until I come across something like this with my own eyes. There does seem to be a few other good options.
Royal purple is currently getting some great reviews and is possibly something I would like to trial, I know AS Performance is a stockist of this
Old 06 April 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #43  
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That does look a strange looking additive!
It would be interesting to know how long that can of oil was on the shelf for and how it was stored?
Old 06 April 2016 | 08:01 PM
  #44  
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I must admit after seeing this it has really put me off using millers whether it was just a one off or not.
Old 06 April 2016 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jonnyboy82
I must admit after seeing this it has really put me off using millers whether it was just a one off or not.
Why?
Many people still use TESCO fuel even after their fiasco.
Old 06 April 2016 | 08:42 PM
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I saw the offending oil today and categorically this will not mix. If you want a large ball of toffee in your engine crack on. It's absolutely 100% an engine killer, thank **** it was at the bottom of the can !
Old 06 April 2016 | 09:18 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
Why?
Many people still use TESCO fuel even after their fiasco.
Originally Posted by 53
I saw the offending oil today and categorically this will not mix. If you want a large ball of toffee in your engine crack on. It's absolutely 100% an engine killer, thank **** it was at the bottom of the can !
THIS..
Old 06 April 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #48  
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Some people say tesco 99 has random det, some mappers/RR operators can tell if a car is using v-power or tesco 99
I've recently had bad experiences with tesco 99. The penny didn't drop at first it was the fuel. The first time about 6 months ago I set off quick out of a T junction and the car jerked a couple of times at high revs (I put it down to low fuel - 1/4 tank). It has happened a few times with 1/2 tank and below, but the last time I had 3/4 tank and I realised it wasn't to do with low fuel or poor fuel pump, it was down to tesco 99 fuel (I fill up at 3 different tescos). I have filled up with v-power for my last 3 tanks and it has been fine, even with less than 1/4 tank in. I won't be using tesco 99 again
Old 06 April 2016 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by The Trooper 1815
So not necessarily the oil then.
No, it might have been a dodgy shell that decided to fail all of a sudden.
Old 06 April 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 53
I saw the offending oil today and categorically this will not mix. If you want a large ball of toffee in your engine crack on. It's absolutely 100% an engine killer, thank **** it was at the bottom of the can !
Thank god it was at the bottom and was seen. But, I wonder what 'parts' of the oil separated. Defo an engine killer

The comment saying to shake it up
That's like saying - this bucket of water I'm using to wash my car has grit/sand in the bottom, so I'm not going to use it. Shake it up and it will look like there aren't any bits in the bottom, so it will be fine to wash your car with!
Old 07 April 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #51  
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Interesting as I'd actually caught the sludge in a cap and after a few minutes it had actually dissolved Ito a grease type of sludge turning liquidy by the time I dropped it in still running all well now and yes I still have the invoice from opie oils but have thrown the container away cars running without any issues at the moment and I'm not concerned, but the sludge you guys have described doesn't seem like anything like what I've found as that actually dissolved down to liquid type, if it were solid and not dissolving I wouldn't have bothered and would have drained the rest out and contacted opie oils but I have a millers distributor very close and he actually said it had been on the shelf too long wen I had got to him few minutes away from the place of servicing my car it had mostly dissolved to a liquidy grease,it out it was more like grease and not dark brown as shown in first pics maybe mine wernt left on the shelf for that long??? Or was mine a DIFFRENT sludge ??
Old 17 April 2016 | 04:57 PM
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I have just had a lot of work done on my engine which included a new turbo and RCM oil pump. I had two 5Lt pots of Millers on hand and a 5Lt pot of Fuchs.
I decided to go with the Millers 5w/40 and used a full pot and part of the 2nd pot to prime, flush, and fill my engine. I ran it through a strainer into a jug before putting the oil in the engine and found nothing suspicious.
The motor runs fine, plenty of oil pressure, so I'm not expecting any issues now but will be keeping an eye on that oil.
Old 17 April 2016 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rayc21
Hi Guys,

I own Silverline (Oil Brand) and am happy to assist with any questions people may have.
You can check our web site www.silverline-uk .com or our facebook page where there are many write ups.

Our track car (315 bhp) is a 125k mile engine / gearbox and axle. I bought it from a Scrapper and it was decided to use it to trial the oil. 3 years on and 3000 miles of hard track use (Steve can confirm as he has chased and been chased by it many times at Lydden) the car is still on the same engine. We run it on 10w40 and change the oil once a year (No point changing every session as it proves nothing).

When Simon Roe mapped the car last (just before he passed away) he couldn't believe how the readings were still identical to the year previous.

Charlie at SRR uses the oil in his legacy including track use, Duncan Graham uses our oil in his own car.

All I can say is that it does what it says on the tin. There are no additives such as ptfe, molybdenum disulphide etc, It is surface modifying technology in where the lubricant bonds itself to the metal surfaces. It has been well tested in motorsport over the years. Bo Nielsen won Time Attack in his Astra running the oil. He now runs it in his Porsche. Will Watson runs it in his Astra Time attack car. RCM have used it. Peo R Subaru Team have used it. Isuzu D Max rally truck has used it.

Oil is a very personal choice.
Many people swear by a certain brand because they were told by someone else it was good or they have had good results from their choice. That, truly is where personal choice comes into it. When you start looking into technical aspects of the oil makeup and its abilities then you start to see differences. Standard cars are probably fine on 99% of the oils out there. However, if you push hard or drive hard then "peace of mind" comes into play knowing the lifeblood of your engine is doing the job of protecting that you need.

With regard to keeping engines clean. Under extreme heat conditions synthetics (from personal experience of changing blown engines) tend to bake their additives to the inside of the engine blocks (Brown residue). This can cause its own issues. I our track car (standard cooling system) has seen on track oil temps of 130 degrees. At the end of the year it is still perfectly clean and viscous. More and more Subaru owners are moving to our oil and feedback has been excellent to date.

At the end of the day. Oil is your choice and it's your hard earnt being used for your hobby / passion. As I said. For every day use 99% (Including supermarket brands) will do what you want them to do.

Please feel free to email me via the web site or pm via facebook or here. Rather than clog this thread with questions.

Is the URL correct, hyperlink can't be found. I'm always interested in a new quality oil
Old 17 April 2016 | 10:47 PM
  #54  
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It looks like there is a space between 'uk' and '.com'

http://silverline-uk.com/
Old 18 April 2016 | 12:03 PM
  #55  
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serves my wife right for pinching all my Millers CFS NT and putting it all in her ****ty daily.
Old 18 April 2016 | 01:37 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by RS_Matt
serves my wife right for pinching all my Millers CFS NT and putting it all in her ****ty daily.
Have you had oil pump failure or something off it??????
Old 18 April 2016 | 06:13 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by s70rjw
Is the URL correct, hyperlink can't be found. I'm always interested in a new quality oil
You can also contact Ray here

https://www.facebook.com/Silverlineukltd/


Cheers
Steve
Old 18 April 2016 | 08:25 PM
  #58  
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Got my silverline oil on friday, Ray was a gent to deal with. Oil change on the 29th and then remap on the 3rd
Old 18 April 2016 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Got my silverline oil on friday, Ray was a gent to deal with. Oil change on the 29th and then remap on the 3rd
How much was it and which one did you go for banni?
Old 18 April 2016 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ZANY
How much was it and which one did you go for banni?
I paid £55 inc post and Ray advised me to go for the 10w50 for mine. Its not listed on his page but he will send out the correct grade if you let him know before hand

http://silverline-uk.com/product/10w40-engine-oil/



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