The thing I don't get is how I'm overboosting. The ecu controls the boost via the solenoid, so why is it overboosting when it's cold. Surely no matter how hot or cold is it 1 psi is 1 psi.

I get that colder air is denser so for the same boost pressure you will get more air and need more fuel. But is this not where the ecu reads the air temp and adjusts accordingly.

 

Personally, I want the most from anything i do to the car,

£500 on a £2k car is better than the £2k car being worth £500 when it craps its pants,

Sure plenty "work" without a remap, fact is will work "better" with one

 

well the assumption here is that it is overboosting, nobody knows for sure except what you are telling us. Has it done it since?

something as stupid as low fuel on a bend can make classic stutter due to tank slosh and fuel starvation

 

opinions. thats all it is here between us so you have yours and i have mine.

fact is he doesnt immediately need a remap, some due diligence and diagnosis is what is required first and foremost.

 

Not an opinion,

If he has fitted a bigger top-mount then it's a "Fact" he will benefit from a re-map,

Could make 2bhp or 10bhp,

Yes, you can cowboy it and get it running okay

But i would rather know my map has been adjusted to suit and i am getting the "most" out of my mods

 

well then the OP has both sides of the coin - so he can choose cant he

 

Fair enough,

My mate discovered his type R was mapped for a 20g when his car had a vf35 on it,

Didn't know till 3 months after buying, when he finally got around to a map,

So it does show they classics can work even when the map is wayyy off.

 

I had been running for two weeks with no issue. Yesterday it played up. Today it seems fine. Fuel was over half tank v power both days. Played up on motorway so no bends. Only difference is it is slightly warmer today than yesterday.

 

thats my point. classics will take all sorts of abuse or cowboy antics without issue or need to remap as long as you check/log how its running after making changes so i think its a waste of money remapping them for light mods because majority of them aint worth the money investing in a map.

likes of newage etc id be of the same understanding as you, either leave it standard or if wanting to do stuff even light modifications always consider remap along with it

 

well just drive on, and monitor it over the days/weeks/months and see can you pinpoint it.

 

forgot to mention OBD devices doesnt work on classics.

 

After a bit of research I found that Obdkey supports Subaru Ssm as does the torque app so it should work for 98 onwards. I will start a thread when i receive it to let others know how I get on. http://m.obdkey.com

 

I have now got the Obdkey setup with the torque app so I can read the ecu sensors live.

Ran it on my commute to work and felt the same issue around 3000rpm. Peak boost was mostly 15.8 although i did see 16.1 once. From what I have read that is normal boost for a my99 prodrive ecu and below the boost/fuel cut. So it's not overboosting.

So its a hesitation when coming on boost, then it's fine revs cleanly and it only seems to happen when the weather is cold.

I have ordered up some new plugs, leads and a fuel filter to tick off the cheap easy stuff. Then thinking fuel pump if no difference.

My only worry is that I'm on the limit of what the ecu can fuel and when the weather gets cold it goes outside the ecus parameters? But then surely it wouldnt rev cleanly once the hesitation has passed and just run crap all the time?

I will get it checked on rollers after I've fitted the parts even if it cures the issue for peace of mind, but it only seems to happen when it's cold so I'm not sure they will be able to replicate it.

 

When you change the plugs gap them to 0.6

You are nowhere near the ecu limits

I ran my classic ppp at 1.2bar (actuator preload increased) and with a sportcat downpipe on a newage wrx ic, had no bother whatsoever and its still running the same setup to this day and that nearly 5yrs

If it was pump itd be worse at higher rpm

3k rpm is more or less max boost on a ppp so wouldnt be surprised if blowing out spark, boost then tapers as rpm increases

 

Limit is 1.65 iirc. But that's ultimate so you wanna stay below that so ecu can see it spiking and pull it back.

 

Can you save the log files using the obdkey setup? Maybe posting up the csv file or screenshot might help spot the problem.
What do your LTV and IAM look like?

 

You can do logging. What is ltv and Iam?

 

Learning Table Values
Ignition Advance Multiplier

Both can show how healthy the car is running.

 

Can't see these as options in the torque app. I read somewhere you can get these values from a cable and ecu explorer software is that right? If so which cable do I need?

 

Afaik you can use a standard vagcom cable and romraider software.
I've only ever mapped classics so not the best person to ask.
Have a look in the engine management section as there should be some info there,or place a thread asking the question.
The romraider site is very useful too.

 

This is a classic.

 

It is a classic, my99 with prodrive
ecu

 

Ah yes it is,just re-read sorry.
I've only ever used ESL which are pre 99
Not sure on the 99/00 classic then? I think you can only map using ecutek or eculabs?
As far as logging with romraider then I'm not sure tbh?
Maybe worth putting a question up in the engine management section:

 

Can someone confirm this cable work please

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390665706953

 

Not sure if the VAG cables have the same pin connections

This looks the same but double the price , typically, but again, if the pins match and it works .................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Out...EAAOSwFTRTowO9

 

Changed the plugs and leads today. Two of the plugs looked pretty gone. Changed from the 6b to 7b so hopefully that will solve it. Won't know till tomorrow when I cab give it a proper run on the motorway.

Ordered up a cable so can check for knock correction to be sure everything is OK.

 

Did you gap them, or at least check the gaps?

 

No I didn't, thought they came setup. I can check them tomorrow. What gap should i set them too.

It seems to run fine didn't get any hesitation yesterday so think they are OK.

 

Temps have been milder past few days. I'm guessing as soon as they drop again it will happen again.

 

they are supposedly pre-gapped to around 0.8, you want them down around 0.65-0.7