Possibly Headgasket failure.
#32
KEPt an eye on the coolant levels and they havnt really dropped at all. For the last few days been keeping a sharp eye though! Unable to find my ob2 reader to check the exact coolant temperature readings when driving but the guage has sat solid where it should be. Havnt really been boosting it or driving hard too. But no overheating showing whatsoever.
As already mentioned, you can't rely on the factory gauge. It sits in the middle for a HUGE variation of temperatures from well below warm to dangerously hot. It will only go up in extreme cases.
You can use your android phone or tablet with a cheap EML327 Bluetooth adaptor and torque app for less than £5 in total. Would be worth doing in my mind.
#33
As already mentioned, you can't rely on the factory gauge. It sits in the middle for a HUGE variation of temperatures from well below warm to dangerously hot. It will only go up in extreme cases.
You can use your android phone or tablet with a cheap EML327 Bluetooth adaptor and torque app for less than £5 in total. Would be worth doing in my mind.
You can use your android phone or tablet with a cheap EML327 Bluetooth adaptor and torque app for less than £5 in total. Would be worth doing in my mind.
Will plug my ob2 reader in and keep an eye on the temperatures from now on. Had a check on the header tank for the coolant and it’s been checked at exactly the same time for the last 3-4 days. it’s looking like my coolant has not budged and is the exact same ammount from last week. So hopefully that’s a good sign of me not loosing any coolant and maybe with the correct pressure cap now on the radiator I’ve solved one issue.
#35
#36
#37
I think he got the wrong thread - https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...illing-up.html
Lol fair enough! Was wondering then!
#39
Will plug my ob2 reader in and keep an eye on the temperatures from now on. Had a check on the header tank for the coolant and it’s been checked at exactly the same time for the last 3-4 days. it’s looking like my coolant has not budged and is the exact same ammount from last week. So hopefully that’s a good sign of me not loosing any coolant and maybe with the correct pressure cap now on the radiator I’ve solved one issue.
Just to give you a reference point for your coolant temperature....
My standard dash gauge reaches mid point showing at temperature when the ECU is reading only 70degC from the coolant temperature sensor. It then raises to normal running temperature of around 90degC and if sitting in traffic the fan cuts in at around 95degC to cool it back down. My car never reaches 100degC.
Just monitor yours using the ODB2 port and see what you're getting daily. Make sure your fan is kicking in when required.
#40
Will plug my ob2 reader in and keep an eye on the temperatures from now on. Had a check on the header tank for the coolant and it’s been checked at exactly the same time for the last 3-4 days. it’s looking like my coolant has not budged and is the exact same ammount from last week. So hopefully that’s a good sign of me not loosing any coolant and maybe with the correct pressure cap now on the radiator I’ve solved one issue.
#42
HG failure symptoms, don't usually reoccur unless you boost the car. I nursed mine for about a month until I got it down to Alan at Engine Tuner in Plymouth. Fully Forged and Studded, it's never missed a beat ever since- 5 years and 28,000 HARD miles.
#43
Temperatures have stayed below 100 and both fans be kick in when they should be but I have been driving around like im trying to get good mpg 😂 taking it easy. Coolant levels are still exactly the same not dropping so happy there’s no leaks. Going to take it for a bit of a blast over the next few days though to see what happens then. Thinking maybe when it’s under boost, the issues then is going to show signs of head gasket.
#45
Not a cheap repair (even just standard HG's fitted and nothing else). However, and it's a "How deep are your pockets?" however, the benefits of better HG's, machining, honing, forging, studding etc is key to a cracking 2.5 road car.
With a good map on a built 2.5 WRX you'd perhaps see at least 310 horses and plenty of torque which a decently built 2.5 offers....and above all, reliability. Throw some breathing apparatus at it and you'll see even more power gains I reckon.
It will never run right as it is from what I'm reading....you need to either get it gone, or get it good.
WRX is a more comfortable ride, and 5 gears means less up and down the box compared to an STi. Best of both worlds for some.
My 2007 STi Spec D suffered the same fate a few years ago, got it built, mapped and have never looked back. Sure, piston slap when she's cold, but that's just a trait of forging, no biggie, just how it is.
With a good map on a built 2.5 WRX you'd perhaps see at least 310 horses and plenty of torque which a decently built 2.5 offers....and above all, reliability. Throw some breathing apparatus at it and you'll see even more power gains I reckon.
It will never run right as it is from what I'm reading....you need to either get it gone, or get it good.
WRX is a more comfortable ride, and 5 gears means less up and down the box compared to an STi. Best of both worlds for some.
My 2007 STi Spec D suffered the same fate a few years ago, got it built, mapped and have never looked back. Sure, piston slap when she's cold, but that's just a trait of forging, no biggie, just how it is.
#46
Not a cheap repair (even just standard HG's fitted and nothing else). However, and it's a "How deep are your pockets?" however, the benefits of better HG's, machining, honing, forging, studding etc is key to a cracking 2.5 road car.
With a good map on a built 2.5 WRX you'd perhaps see at least 310 horses and plenty of torque which a decently built 2.5 offers....and above all, reliability. Throw some breathing apparatus at it and you'll see even more power gains I reckon.
It will never run right as it is from what I'm reading....you need to either get it gone, or get it good.
WRX is a more comfortable ride, and 5 gears means less up and down the box compared to an STi. Best of both worlds for some.
My 2007 STi Spec D suffered the same fate a few years ago, got it built, mapped and have never looked back. Sure, piston slap when she's cold, but that's just a trait of forging, no biggie, just how it is.
With a good map on a built 2.5 WRX you'd perhaps see at least 310 horses and plenty of torque which a decently built 2.5 offers....and above all, reliability. Throw some breathing apparatus at it and you'll see even more power gains I reckon.
It will never run right as it is from what I'm reading....you need to either get it gone, or get it good.
WRX is a more comfortable ride, and 5 gears means less up and down the box compared to an STi. Best of both worlds for some.
My 2007 STi Spec D suffered the same fate a few years ago, got it built, mapped and have never looked back. Sure, piston slap when she's cold, but that's just a trait of forging, no biggie, just how it is.
I did have the plan of going the forged route. But well times change and now looking for my own home it’s kinda gone the other way where I need to spend littleOn the car and save more for a house! Always loved the 2.5 because of the torque! Will definitely get another one in the future but for now it’s one of those things. Like you said. Get it done or get it sold! Am hoping now after driving it harder for the next few days it will either let me know about any coolant loss or Any other signs as I have been driving gently everywhere since the motorway incident. Thanks everyone for the helpful information though!! What the Subaru community is all about!!
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