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impreza wont rev properly and dump valve sound different

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Old 23 August 2019, 11:15 AM
  #31  
BrownPantsRacing
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You'll be fine!
Old 23 August 2019, 05:52 PM
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the shreksta
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
You'll be fine!
ive done a bit of research on blanking the dump valve and ive hardly found any info that suggests its a good idea on the vf43

even on this thread you say you have been its not recommended

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...e-on-vf43.html

now im even more confused lol
Old 23 August 2019, 07:42 PM
  #33  
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It'll be fine. I've got a mate who's been running his vf43 with dump valve delete for 5 years now with no issues at all. Craig Bellworthy has just inspected his turbo and it's still perfect within spec with no issues.
Old 23 August 2019, 08:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
It'll be fine. I've got a mate who's been running his vf43 with dump valve delete for 5 years now with no issues at all. Craig Bellworthy has just inspected his turbo and it's still perfect within spec with no issues.
Ok I'm sold..........

Thanks for your help on this thread buddy
Old 23 August 2019, 08:32 PM
  #35  
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No worries. Let me know how you get on.
Old 23 August 2019, 08:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
No worries. Let me know how you get on.
Yeah I will do, I will order the blanking plug from forge they are about 5 quid each
Old 07 September 2019, 11:25 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
No, makes such a small difference to the fuel readings it's not worth a remap and won't harm your car at all. Depending on what turbo you have it could wear the turbo out faster by not running a dump valve, but quite honestly I wouldn't let it bother you at all.
Right small update........

Took the dump valve off today and opened it up, both springs and the diaphragm seem fine,nothings broke and as I took the last bolt out I could feel it pushing itself open, like you say its filthy inside though. I was going to rebuild it but those useless ***** at forge haven't sent the spring kit in my package.

I blanked off the main hose with the 34mm plug but I need an 8mm plug for the recirc pipe. I did order a 10mm but it wont quite go in.

Anyway now I know the dump valve is fine what would make it open up on tick over?

Last edited by the shreksta; 07 September 2019 at 11:40 AM.
Old 10 September 2019, 04:04 PM
  #38  
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so ive rebuilt the dump valve with a new piston/o-rings/both springs and cleaned it throughout and the car is still no better, the dump valve still opens on tick over

stumped now guys
Old 10 September 2019, 07:16 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by t8bby
Refit the oem recirc valve
I'm going to blank it off altogether, car is being recovered to thwaites on monday. Deffo some sort of boost issue as I have no boost.
Old 10 September 2019, 07:54 PM
  #40  
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found a vid on youtube, my car is doing the exact same thing

Old 10 September 2019, 08:23 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by t8bby
I would be nearly certain the bov is at fault.
To save yourself some cash I would blank it off completely and take a drive to see if it boosts correctly.
It will run like crap on idle due to being too rich as a result of unmetered air.
My money was on the bov but I have completely rebuilt it only the outer 2 halves are the original pieces.

I have some blanking plugs coming as I need a 34mm and an 8mm and forge didnt have the 8mm.
Would a sticking wastegate give these symptoms?
Old 10 September 2019, 08:56 PM
  #42  
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Any black smoke when you attempt to rev it I would suspect a large boost leak and the vacuum in the inlet manifold attempting to open the dump valve at idle.
Old 11 September 2019, 04:35 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
Any black smoke when you attempt to rev it I would suspect a large boost leak and the vacuum in the inlet manifold attempting to open the dump valve at idle.
Yes I did notice some black smoke and the inside of my exhaust looks more black than usual. I'm sure thwaites will get it sorted I will also get them to dyno health check it aswell.
Old 11 September 2019, 06:42 AM
  #44  
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To block the 8mm hose, you can use an m8 (8mm across the diameter of the threads) bolt pushed into the hose (and cable tied if it's feeling loose).

The engine bay has a bunch of m8 bolts you can borrow temporarily.
Old 11 September 2019, 11:24 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
Right small update........

Took the dump valve off today and opened it up, both springs and the diaphragm seem fine,nothings broke and as I took the last bolt out I could feel it pushing itself open, like you say its filthy inside though. I was going to rebuild it but those useless ***** at forge haven't sent the spring kit in my package.

I blanked off the main hose with the 34mm plug but I need an 8mm plug for the recirc pipe. I did order a 10mm but it wont quite go in.

Anyway now I know the dump valve is fine what would make it open up on tick over?
The vacuum at idle is overcoming the spring tension and hence opening it on idle. You need a stronger spring, or like said by others fit the OEM back on
Old 11 September 2019, 11:27 AM
  #46  
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Or to just blank it completely easily is a piece of tin cut to shape and placed between dumpvalve and intercooler will allow you to leave all pipes in place but run blanked
Old 11 September 2019, 11:59 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Gambit
The vacuum at idle is overcoming the spring tension and hence opening it on idle. You need a stronger spring, or like said by others fit the OEM back on
I would agree with you but as it's a new spring in there I cant see that being the issue. The dump valve has been fine for years I only rebuilt it as I convinced myself that was the issue
Old 11 September 2019, 01:30 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
I would agree with you but as it's a new spring in there I cant see that being the issue. The dump valve has been fine for years I only rebuilt it as I convinced myself that was the issue
What is the rating of the new spring?
Old 11 September 2019, 01:40 PM
  #49  
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As example when I bought my new forge item for my front mount i had exact same problem. Though by looking up chart I realised I just need to shim mine to cope with 20in/hg vacuum which I'd measured using torque app. Once shimmed it didn't open on idle

I eventually got rid of it as it was a pain in the **** noise wise and went back to std with recirc



Old 11 September 2019, 02:39 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Gambit
As example when I bought my new forge item for my front mount i had exact same problem. Though by looking up chart I realised I just need to shim mine to cope with 20in/hg vacuum which I'd measured using torque app. Once shimmed it didn't open on idle

I eventually got rid of it as it was a pain in the **** noise wise and went back to std with recirc


i took out a yellow spring and replaced with a yellow one along with a new idle spring
Old 11 September 2019, 02:48 PM
  #51  
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If you have stiffer springs I would try one of those.
Old 11 September 2019, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
If you have stiffer springs I would try one of those.
i have the full set as they sent me all of them, still wouldnt explain why the yellow one lasted so long but the new one is n o good.

will blank it off tomorrow and see what happens
Old 11 September 2019, 05:21 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
i have the full set as they sent me all of them, still wouldnt explain why the yellow one lasted so long but the new one is n o good.

will blank it off tomorrow and see what happens
If you had a vacuum/boost leak somewhere previously the vacuum draw would have been less
Old 15 September 2019, 09:46 AM
  #54  
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So I took the dump valve off and blanked it off and it's still made no difference. It's getting taken to thwaites tomorrow so will see what they say.
Old 15 September 2019, 09:57 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by t8bby
Nothing to do with the issue but do you leave the car outside and not driven for long periods of time???
Cars dont like this and it may be where some of your problems are coming from?
Yeah I 100% agree mate, I need to use it more often or sell it. They have changed the car park layout at work and its chaos,1 person has already had his front bumper ripped off and another has had his rear bumper scratched so I refuse to take the subaru there now. I work 6 days a week so it only gives me 1 day to enjoy it. I have a jeep for the daily and it's a fecking tank so I'm not fussed about that at work.
Old 15 September 2019, 10:07 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
so my 2007 hawk sti hasnt moved for 2 weeks, i started her up yesterday to move around on my drive and gave her a 3 hour clean then locked her up,i have an appointment @ unity subaru in leicester this morning to have a key coded so i drove out of my street onto the main road and tried to accelerate.............

in 1st gear it wouldnt go past 4k
in 2nd gear it wouldnt go past 3k
in 3rd and 4th gear it wouldnt go past 3k
when the car hit those rpm's it was spluttering really badly
there are no warning lights and oil pressure is good.
the dump valve seems quieter almost muffled (forge dump valve)
in 2nd gear i tried to floor it and was met with a sound like a trumpet...............

any ideas?

when i last used her the car ran perfectly
Just read all your post and I know the cars going to Thwaites tomorrow but do you still have your trumpet sound if so that's usually a sign of a blown up pipe (pre turbo) gasket failed
Old 15 September 2019, 10:13 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
Just read all your post and I know the cars going to Thwaites tomorrow but do you still have your trumpet sound if so that's usually a sign of a blown up pipe (pre turbo) gasket failed
Yeah it still makes the dumping sound albeit slightly muffled compared to what it was before. Would a blown up pipe gasket stop it revving though? Also would that cause the dump valve to open on tick over? I'm guessing it's nothing serious as the car drives fine just with no boost (fingers crossed)
Old 15 September 2019, 10:26 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
Yeah it still makes the dumping sound albeit slightly muffled compared to what it was before. Would a blown up pipe gasket stop it revving though? Also would that cause the dump valve to open on tick over? I'm guessing it's nothing serious as the car drives fine just with no boost (fingers crossed)
Mate of mine was heading here for a mapping session a couple of weeks ago ONE 14mm nut had come off due to him replacing manifold gaskets on the heads. It was squealing like a banshee checked all the boost pipes to no avail put it on the lift found the problem new nut and as right as rain. Exactly the same symptoms as you all be it dump valve has been blanked for a long time.
Old 15 September 2019, 10:31 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
Mate of mine was heading here for a mapping session a couple of weeks ago ONE 14mm nut had come off due to him replacing manifold gaskets on the heads. It was squealing like a banshee checked all the boost pipes to no avail put it on the lift found the problem new nut and as right as rain. Exactly the same symptoms as you all be it dump valve has been blanked for a long time.
Bet that pissed him off. What's confusing is the last time I used the car it was fine then parked it up for a few weeks and now its fecked. It's on std headers so assume std up-pipe aswell.
Old 15 September 2019, 10:40 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
Bet that pissed him off. What's confusing is the last time I used the car it was fine then parked it up for a few weeks and now its fecked. It's on std headers so assume std up-pipe aswell.
No he was sorted within half an hour and everything went smoothly after that but before we replaced the nut it was exactly as your describing even though I suspect if it is the case it will be a gasket in your case cause he had only just replaced his so might of forgotten to tighten them all up


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