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Old 13 May 2020 | 10:17 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Henrik
I don't think that's a major cause for concern - most turbos survive just fine when run with just the oil lines connected (i.e. no water cooling at all).
I agree with this. I would have no concern over the turbo at all.
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Old 13 May 2020 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Henrik
I don't think that's a major cause for concern - most turbos survive just fine when run with just the oil lines connected (i.e. no water cooling at all).
I think it is a major concern.
Water cooling draws heat away, after engine switch off.
No water connection and the bearing retainer, oil seals will cook and oil will oxidise.
No water cooling will reduce turbo bearing longevity - particularly with physically bigger turbos (increased heat soak) and raised boost pressures = raised egts = increased heat soak.
Old 13 May 2020 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
I think it is a major concern.
Water cooling draws heat away, after engine switch off.
No water connection and the bearing retainer, oil seals will cook and oil will oxidise.
No water cooling will reduce turbo bearing longevity - particularly with physically bigger turbos (increased heat soak) and raised boost pressures = raised egts = increased heat soak.
I think you're missing the point. The mod does not stop coolant flowing through the turbo cooling passage and cooling the turbo. It purely equalises the cooling system better and more efficiently so the overall cooling temps may be a couple of degrees higher but the cooling will still happen.
Old 13 May 2020 | 01:21 PM
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Has the Fuji Racing one been released yet for purchase?.SJ.
Old 13 May 2020 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
I think you're missing the point. The mod does not stop coolant flowing through the turbo cooling passage and cooling the turbo. It purely equalises the cooling system better and more efficiently so the overall cooling temps may be a couple of degrees higher but the cooling will still happen.
You've misread the thread.

The egts on cylinders 1 & 3 have been considerably increased by the mod.
The turbo water cooling is being fed via cylinder 3.
One of the unanswered questions is:
By how much is the water temp being effected, per cylinder?

The orifice size of the fitting appears crucial.
Old 13 May 2020 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
You've misread the thread.

The egts on cylinders 1 & 3 have been considerably increased by the mod.
The turbo water cooling is being fed via cylinder 3.
Have you got a link to that information above mate?I have been considering fitting one as anything that can help with temps in a positive way on a tuned motor i want to know about,but also need to know fully about any research that has been found on the negative side of things if any also after being fitted.SJ.
Old 13 May 2020 | 03:53 PM
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https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind...ng-kit.319018/

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2882734

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...or-your-turbo/
Old 13 May 2020 | 03:59 PM
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THANKS!.SJ.
Old 13 May 2020 | 04:15 PM
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Some info from the first site link you posted.

got DOM’s cylinder 4 cooling kit, and while I do not have actual EGT data I can confirm what Dom said that the coolant tempt is down by average 5 Deg C.

Another interesting thing that I felt is my STI revs nicer ever since I added this cooling mod. I don’t have an explanation as to why, but it ‘could’ be due to the now equal EGT resuling better exhaust pulse entering my twin scroll turbo.

Based on the figure posted by Dom, if I convert into Deg C the EGT for all 4 cylinders goes as below:


The before and after figure are of course taken on different day and time so the numbers are not relevant. What is interesting is how the EGT across all 4 cylinders are basically equal to each other. Again these are not my car’s figure and I do not have a mean to take measurement unless I install EGT sensors.
Reducing the likelihood of pre-ignition due to heat on cyl 4 will simply 'level the playing field' if you will. If I remember reading this correctly, supposedly Dom didn't make it so it would be less prone to knock than the other cylinders, but simply reduced it by a fair margin. I think it is still more so prone to knock than the other 3, just not near as badly or as soon as it used to.
As you say though, the diameter of the pipe and flow rate will be critical in this mod as you don't want cylinder 4 to have better cooling than the other cylinders in theory due to knock sensor placement and put cylinders 1-3 into unsafe working limits.

Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 13 May 2020 at 04:17 PM.
Old 13 May 2020 | 05:07 PM
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I love the concept.

I'd also like to make sure, that I'm not going to come across anything, unexpected.
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Old 13 May 2020 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2pot
I love the concept.

I'd also like to make sure, that I'm not going to come across anything, unexpected.
I know exactly what you mean.
Old 03 June 2020 | 11:10 PM
  #42  
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It's M20 with a 1.25 pitch. People have expressed their disquiet at the cost of the kit from the U.S, understandably when you see what it is. Finding an M20 outlet from general suppliers is very difficult, M19 is freely available, M20 definitely isn't.

Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.

I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.
Old 04 June 2020 | 09:33 AM
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here's a m20x1.5 -> 8AN adaptor for < 6 gbp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-A...r/231803815685
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105

Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
Old 04 June 2020 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bimble7116
It's M20 with a 1.25 pitch. People have expressed their disquiet at the cost of the kit from the U.S, understandably when you see what it is. Finding an M20 outlet from general suppliers is very difficult, M19 is freely available, M20 definitely isn't.

Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.

I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.

Someones reply to your post

Thing being the kit isnt 5/8 all the way through. It has a smaller diam outlet to slow flow.🙂 Otherwise it over cools.🙂


Any truth
Old 04 June 2020 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Henrik
here's a m20x1.5 -> 8AN adaptor for < 6 gbp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-A...r/231803815685
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105

Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
Aren't these the wrong pitch?
Old 04 June 2020 | 10:57 AM
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fbtuning are selling a kit on ebay now, looks different to the dom one though.
Old 04 June 2020 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by matt-c
fbtuning are selling a kit on ebay now, looks different to the dom one though.
Just a slightly different block adaptor.



Old 04 June 2020 | 11:03 AM
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T piece is much smaller?
Old 04 June 2020 | 11:10 AM
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Yes you're right; sorry, I thought you literally meant the kit as a whole looked different.

Presumably the smaller t-piece is the part that they're using to restrict flow (as per description: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Im...oAAOSwCUderu0f) because the black push-on fitting looks larger.

Edit: just clocked the price (and £10 postage)! I'm guessing the description is intentionally vague because it's easy to source the parts separately for less than £80.

Last edited by HarryB; 04 June 2020 at 11:13 AM.
Old 04 June 2020 | 11:19 AM
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I'm waiting for an adaptor to do mine. The price on this is just to out of reasonable.
I bought an M10 and will probably 3d print "a restrictor pill", 5mm, tu put inside the hose. Little flow is better than no flow.
Old 04 June 2020 | 11:36 AM
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-cy...wAAOSwqCdevbqc
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Old 04 June 2020 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by HarryB
Aren't these the wrong pitch?
OMG, yes ... facepalm moment.. i'll edit my post if I still can


Edit: Although, 2pot claims it's m20x1.5.

Last edited by Henrik; 04 June 2020 at 11:52 AM.
Old 04 June 2020 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Henrik
OMG, yes ... facepalm moment.. i'll edit my post if I still can


Edit: Although, 2pot claims it's m20x1.5.
I'm not sure which is right - just noticed the different thread pitch you mentioned!

Looks like 2pot is correct:
"I just got a m20x1.5 to 10an fitting and a 10an push loc straight fitting."
https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...3&postcount=10



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Old 04 June 2020 | 05:17 PM
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Thks,
Just bought the 2 that were available. One for me, other for a friend. Got them for 65€ (55£ with shipment).

I'll post some pics when I get them.
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Old 19 June 2020 | 03:53 PM
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2 Kits have arrived.
First impressions:
  • Packing could/should be better;
  • No instructions at all;
  • Diameter of the kit looks a bit "Large";
  • Hose looks a bit small and "kinkable".

I'll share more findings and dimensions later.


Does anyone know the diameter of the other kits? I'll probably 3d Print a reducer, much like the "boost pill" Subaru uses.

Last edited by PedroFT; 19 June 2020 at 04:19 PM. Reason: add some text.
Old 20 June 2020 | 10:05 PM
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Update:
The flow will be set by the smallest inner diameter part.
The hose is 11mm, the connectors are ~10mm, aparently the magic number for diameter is 8mm, so....

I grabed a nut, including the thread was ~7mm, and with an 8mm, the drilling machine got to work.
The final result in a 8mm restrictor:
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Old 21 June 2020 | 05:51 PM
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Thanks for updating the thread with your findings! Good to know 8mm ID is required.

FYI - your pictures aren't showing, although strangely I could see them in the initial notification email.
Old 22 June 2020 | 12:34 PM
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Where did you get the 8mm figure from? One one of the American sites someone has measured the I'd of the guy who did a lot of the research that's everyone's using to show how it works and his kit measured 10mm

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
Old 22 June 2020 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Mowgli
Where did you get the 8mm figure from? One one of the American sites someone has measured the I'd of the guy who did a lot of the research that's everyone's using to show how it works and his kit measured 10mm

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
It was NASIOC, some claims that doms kit used a restrictor.
And, as mentioned before, better to be on the smaller side than on the bigger, I was planning on installing the kit this week... but now, I'm not really sure If I'll drill to 9mm.
Old 22 June 2020 | 12:59 PM
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From all that Ive read on it it was the fitting that did that as he has them custom made to that size, kit I had made up is too big so gonna get a custom tee piece made and have that as the restriction after seeing this 8m maybe I'll get it done as 9mm,ive also seen that fb uses an6 unsure what diameter that is but a lot smaller and goes into the tb coolant lines rather than the heater matrix ones



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