4th Cilinder cooling mod
#31
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#32
Water cooling draws heat away, after engine switch off.
No water connection and the bearing retainer, oil seals will cook and oil will oxidise.
No water cooling will reduce turbo bearing longevity - particularly with physically bigger turbos (increased heat soak) and raised boost pressures = raised egts = increased heat soak.
#33
I think it is a major concern.
Water cooling draws heat away, after engine switch off.
No water connection and the bearing retainer, oil seals will cook and oil will oxidise.
No water cooling will reduce turbo bearing longevity - particularly with physically bigger turbos (increased heat soak) and raised boost pressures = raised egts = increased heat soak.
Water cooling draws heat away, after engine switch off.
No water connection and the bearing retainer, oil seals will cook and oil will oxidise.
No water cooling will reduce turbo bearing longevity - particularly with physically bigger turbos (increased heat soak) and raised boost pressures = raised egts = increased heat soak.
#35
I think you're missing the point. The mod does not stop coolant flowing through the turbo cooling passage and cooling the turbo. It purely equalises the cooling system better and more efficiently so the overall cooling temps may be a couple of degrees higher but the cooling will still happen.
The egts on cylinders 1 & 3 have been considerably increased by the mod.
The turbo water cooling is being fed via cylinder 3.
One of the unanswered questions is:
By how much is the water temp being effected, per cylinder?
The orifice size of the fitting appears crucial.
#36
Have you got a link to that information above mate?I have been considering fitting one as anything that can help with temps in a positive way on a tuned motor i want to know about,but also need to know fully about any research that has been found on the negative side of things if any also after being fitted.SJ.
#37
#39
Some info from the first site link you posted.
As you say though, the diameter of the pipe and flow rate will be critical in this mod as you don't want cylinder 4 to have better cooling than the other cylinders in theory due to knock sensor placement and put cylinders 1-3 into unsafe working limits.
got DOM’s cylinder 4 cooling kit, and while I do not have actual EGT data I can confirm what Dom said that the coolant tempt is down by average 5 Deg C.
Another interesting thing that I felt is my STI revs nicer ever since I added this cooling mod. I don’t have an explanation as to why, but it ‘could’ be due to the now equal EGT resuling better exhaust pulse entering my twin scroll turbo.
Based on the figure posted by Dom, if I convert into Deg C the EGT for all 4 cylinders goes as below:
The before and after figure are of course taken on different day and time so the numbers are not relevant. What is interesting is how the EGT across all 4 cylinders are basically equal to each other. Again these are not my car’s figure and I do not have a mean to take measurement unless I install EGT sensors.
Another interesting thing that I felt is my STI revs nicer ever since I added this cooling mod. I don’t have an explanation as to why, but it ‘could’ be due to the now equal EGT resuling better exhaust pulse entering my twin scroll turbo.
Based on the figure posted by Dom, if I convert into Deg C the EGT for all 4 cylinders goes as below:
The before and after figure are of course taken on different day and time so the numbers are not relevant. What is interesting is how the EGT across all 4 cylinders are basically equal to each other. Again these are not my car’s figure and I do not have a mean to take measurement unless I install EGT sensors.
Reducing the likelihood of pre-ignition due to heat on cyl 4 will simply 'level the playing field' if you will. If I remember reading this correctly, supposedly Dom didn't make it so it would be less prone to knock than the other cylinders, but simply reduced it by a fair margin. I think it is still more so prone to knock than the other 3, just not near as badly or as soon as it used to.
Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 13 May 2020 at 04:17 PM.
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#42
It's M20 with a 1.25 pitch. People have expressed their disquiet at the cost of the kit from the U.S, understandably when you see what it is. Finding an M20 outlet from general suppliers is very difficult, M19 is freely available, M20 definitely isn't.
Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.
I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.
Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.
I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.
#43
here's a m20x1.5 -> 8AN adaptor for < 6 gbp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-A...r/231803815685
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105
Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105
Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
#44
It's M20 with a 1.25 pitch. People have expressed their disquiet at the cost of the kit from the U.S, understandably when you see what it is. Finding an M20 outlet from general suppliers is very difficult, M19 is freely available, M20 definitely isn't.
Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.
I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.
Subaru offer a water outlet, the part number is 21170AA020, it costs about £10. You'll need some water pipe about 6 inches long, of 5/8 bore with a 5/8th tee piece and a few good quality Jubilee clips. I bought the £80 American kit and it's on my 1st gen Legacy Turbo - all is well.
I will make my own kit for my 2.5 Outback which is currently in bits for HGF.
Someones reply to your post
Thing being the kit isnt 5/8 all the way through. It has a smaller diam outlet to slow flow.🙂 Otherwise it over cools.🙂
Any truth
#45
here's a m20x1.5 -> 8AN adaptor for < 6 gbp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-A...r/231803815685
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105
Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
or m20x1.5 -> 6AN: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-...r/150591102918
or this m20x1.5 -> m10x1 for a banjo fitting (17 gbp, admittedly): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMP-PLUG...M/142681678105
Having said that, I think I'd personally get the m20x1.5->m10, and retap it for an m12 and use a banjo on that end.
#49
Yes you're right; sorry, I thought you literally meant the kit as a whole looked different.
Presumably the smaller t-piece is the part that they're using to restrict flow (as per description: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Im...oAAOSwCUderu0f) because the black push-on fitting looks larger.
Edit: just clocked the price (and £10 postage)! I'm guessing the description is intentionally vague because it's easy to source the parts separately for less than £80.
Presumably the smaller t-piece is the part that they're using to restrict flow (as per description: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Im...oAAOSwCUderu0f) because the black push-on fitting looks larger.
Edit: just clocked the price (and £10 postage)! I'm guessing the description is intentionally vague because it's easy to source the parts separately for less than £80.
Last edited by HarryB; 04 June 2020 at 11:13 AM.
#50
I'm waiting for an adaptor to do mine. The price on this is just to out of reasonable.
I bought an M10 and will probably 3d print "a restrictor pill", 5mm, tu put inside the hose. Little flow is better than no flow.
I bought an M10 and will probably 3d print "a restrictor pill", 5mm, tu put inside the hose. Little flow is better than no flow.
#51
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#52
#53
Looks like 2pot is correct:
"I just got a m20x1.5 to 10an fitting and a 10an push loc straight fitting."
https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...3&postcount=10
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#54
Just bought the 2 that were available. One for me, other for a friend. Got them for 65€ (55£ with shipment).
I'll post some pics when I get them.
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#55
2 Kits have arrived.
First impressions:
I'll share more findings and dimensions later.
Does anyone know the diameter of the other kits? I'll probably 3d Print a reducer, much like the "boost pill" Subaru uses.
First impressions:
- Packing could/should be better;
- No instructions at all;
- Diameter of the kit looks a bit "Large";
- Hose looks a bit small and "kinkable".
I'll share more findings and dimensions later.
Does anyone know the diameter of the other kits? I'll probably 3d Print a reducer, much like the "boost pill" Subaru uses.
Last edited by PedroFT; 19 June 2020 at 04:19 PM. Reason: add some text.
#56
Update:
The flow will be set by the smallest inner diameter part.
The hose is 11mm, the connectors are ~10mm, aparently the magic number for diameter is 8mm, so....
I grabed a nut, including the thread was ~7mm, and with an 8mm, the drilling machine got to work.
The final result in a 8mm restrictor:
The flow will be set by the smallest inner diameter part.
The hose is 11mm, the connectors are ~10mm, aparently the magic number for diameter is 8mm, so....
I grabed a nut, including the thread was ~7mm, and with an 8mm, the drilling machine got to work.
The final result in a 8mm restrictor:
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#58
Where did you get the 8mm figure from? One one of the American sites someone has measured the I'd of the guy who did a lot of the research that's everyone's using to show how it works and his kit measured 10mm
https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
#59
Where did you get the 8mm figure from? One one of the American sites someone has measured the I'd of the guy who did a lot of the research that's everyone's using to show how it works and his kit measured 10mm
https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
https://www.iwsti.com/threads/cylind....319018/page-2
And, as mentioned before, better to be on the smaller side than on the bigger, I was planning on installing the kit this week... but now, I'm not really sure If I'll drill to 9mm.
#60
From all that Ive read on it it was the fitting that did that as he has them custom made to that size, kit I had made up is too big so gonna get a custom tee piece made and have that as the restriction after seeing this 8m maybe I'll get it done as 9mm,ive also seen that fb uses an6 unsure what diameter that is but a lot smaller and goes into the tb coolant lines rather than the heater matrix ones