New to me 02 bug eye
29 March 2021 | 09:29 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 17
Likes: 4
From: South wales
Fair bit of work going here ... 
Nice doing it from bottom up post , well done.
Going back right to the beginning , you were saying that you had put in a restrictor pill ? if you are running the std 2 port Ok , but if its a 3 port you might find that you don't / normally do not need it , it depends a bit on if it was mapped with one in place.
The air intake is likely to be a bit of a problem due to hot airflow proximity to Turbo , the cold air intake (under the front of the bonnet/inner wing ) of the standard system does a better job pulling in cold air ,
and does not represent a restriction until you get close to 400bhp which you won't be doing on the 5 spd box / std con rod internals. So try to sell that and get a standard air intake. The Carbon scoop is great , ( you may have a new undertray already )
but you will have to replace the WRX undertray / skirt onto make the best of the Sti IC , I have used the old tray and modified the under tray to funnel into the area to left of the IC directly over the turbo , but I sacrifice some 15% of the forced air over the Sti IC to do that.
If you are keeping your nice blue refurbed callipers ( just done mine ) then you can still improve the brakes on a Godspeed large 335mm /34mm thick disc kit ( uses original calliper with a spacer )
that's the best you can do on a budget without going to 18 inch rims. For this engine/car, Id recommend a VF35 or a Hybrid TD04 , the porting you have done will help spool a bit but you need to match the casting to the heads , then get all the cast imperfections out in the pipes as deep in as you can ( long flexishaft and Dremmel bit ) you have to take care as well at up pipe end , don't be tempted to open that end up, you should keep a small lip into the up pipe , Probably best to keep the original up pipe for now but of course you must deccat it.
You will help your spool if you raise the CR , Std is 8.0 :1 , if you have no done a head skim already and need to lift out the engine to do the buckets for the valves anyway you may as well have the heads off , use a 0.6mm gasket to get to around 8.5:1
your new pistons will do fine with that. and it will give you a much better throttle response. Your map will need to be changed to compensate against detonation, but you can drive it over "off boost" keep under 3500rpm.
Great to see you saving this car.
Nice doing it from bottom up post , well done.Going back right to the beginning , you were saying that you had put in a restrictor pill ? if you are running the std 2 port Ok , but if its a 3 port you might find that you don't / normally do not need it , it depends a bit on if it was mapped with one in place.
The air intake is likely to be a bit of a problem due to hot airflow proximity to Turbo , the cold air intake (under the front of the bonnet/inner wing ) of the standard system does a better job pulling in cold air ,
and does not represent a restriction until you get close to 400bhp which you won't be doing on the 5 spd box / std con rod internals. So try to sell that and get a standard air intake. The Carbon scoop is great , ( you may have a new undertray already )
but you will have to replace the WRX undertray / skirt onto make the best of the Sti IC , I have used the old tray and modified the under tray to funnel into the area to left of the IC directly over the turbo , but I sacrifice some 15% of the forced air over the Sti IC to do that.
If you are keeping your nice blue refurbed callipers ( just done mine ) then you can still improve the brakes on a Godspeed large 335mm /34mm thick disc kit ( uses original calliper with a spacer )
that's the best you can do on a budget without going to 18 inch rims. For this engine/car, Id recommend a VF35 or a Hybrid TD04 , the porting you have done will help spool a bit but you need to match the casting to the heads , then get all the cast imperfections out in the pipes as deep in as you can ( long flexishaft and Dremmel bit ) you have to take care as well at up pipe end , don't be tempted to open that end up, you should keep a small lip into the up pipe , Probably best to keep the original up pipe for now but of course you must deccat it.
You will help your spool if you raise the CR , Std is 8.0 :1 , if you have no done a head skim already and need to lift out the engine to do the buckets for the valves anyway you may as well have the heads off , use a 0.6mm gasket to get to around 8.5:1
your new pistons will do fine with that. and it will give you a much better throttle response. Your map will need to be changed to compensate against detonation, but you can drive it over "off boost" keep under 3500rpm.
Great to see you saving this car.
30 March 2021 | 10:14 AM
#33
Scooby Regular
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 677
Likes: 48
From: Torpoint
its important to know that the volume (internal diameter ) of the uppipe is critical to gas speed, I found by using the Harvey pipe an improved throttle response in direct comparison to the Afterburner, which in itself provided a noticeable gain in performance compared to the original Cat uppipe even before doing a remap. The Afterburner available from Scoobyworld has a heat expansion sleeve, which is undoubtedly good to prevent a crack occurring at the flange ends, but I found the expansion became an issue itself because mine became loose, and was no longer gas tight and this is why I changed it, then whilst researching I discovered that that it was a little to big a diameter for my 2.0. Not many people are aware that Harvey's uppipe design varies according to the intended power application.
Specifically if you are running a 2.0ltr and will not be running a big turbo then you should mention this to Alyn when ordering. Note, smaller diameter pipe diameters can give you a faster gas speed and this can promote an improved throttle response.
The uppipe should be matched to the intended turbo / engine cubic capacity as the spool up character is gas speed dependant. Critical to spool and therefore drivability are the header and uppipe flow speeds as well as sufficient free flow into through the downpipe.
Generally the 2.0 will spool best if given a lighter turbo wheel's to drive which is why they work particularly well with the TD04 / hybrid.
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 30 March 2021 at 10:20 AM. Reason: sp
30 March 2021 | 10:56 AM
#34
Scooby Regular
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 677
Likes: 48
From: Torpoint
Restrictor pills , by varying the ID diameter of the pill you can influence the rate of boost build up , so this can be akward if its not mapped. The danger is your map does not compensate and or you develop either inadequate boost or worse overboost. I actually have experimented on this a little to speed up the initial boost development on a three port system that probably does not seal 100%. But I won't advise anyone to try it until I have my next dyno result / and or remap dyno confirmation. In effect its working similar to a Dawes device, but without the danger of sticking.
Injectors. When you fit these you will be over fuelling so drive off boost (sub 3500rpm) to the mapper avoiding steep hills.
The ECU will go into limp mode if you exceed its limits.
Undertray, Nothing special about mine its a hole cut out of the WRX one over the turbo , but you might gain some insight if you search my threads in 2018-2019. I am still using the std heat shield on the top of a SC36 , but a Turbo Blanket would probably be better idea to prevent heat soak. This does not bother me much as I don't have a traffic problem where I live in Cornwall so above 30mph the WRX scoops enough airflow to keeps the Sti IC temp well down. The Sti scoop is not ideal for high speeds as its designed for rallying / mostly sub 100mph, All the scoops create pressure pillows over the bonnet/screen at higher speeds, The Sti one is the best for town and "UK legal" driving. Mine uses a temperature sender , but perversely I don't have it hooked up at the moment, but when i had the mulitimeter on it , I found as soon as I drove more than 30-35 mph the temps dropped down quickly to under 30 Deg C. I might have bothered if I was still driving in Germany where summer ambient can be 40 deg C. but by then I'd run for cool beer and a house aircon.anyway.
Seals. Unless you get the old seals really clean in petrol/spirit they do have a habit of leaking, I found investing in advanced automotive new gasket kits and some black silicon bond where less frustrating.
Injectors. When you fit these you will be over fuelling so drive off boost (sub 3500rpm) to the mapper avoiding steep hills.
The ECU will go into limp mode if you exceed its limits.
Undertray, Nothing special about mine its a hole cut out of the WRX one over the turbo , but you might gain some insight if you search my threads in 2018-2019. I am still using the std heat shield on the top of a SC36 , but a Turbo Blanket would probably be better idea to prevent heat soak. This does not bother me much as I don't have a traffic problem where I live in Cornwall so above 30mph the WRX scoops enough airflow to keeps the Sti IC temp well down. The Sti scoop is not ideal for high speeds as its designed for rallying / mostly sub 100mph, All the scoops create pressure pillows over the bonnet/screen at higher speeds, The Sti one is the best for town and "UK legal" driving. Mine uses a temperature sender , but perversely I don't have it hooked up at the moment, but when i had the mulitimeter on it , I found as soon as I drove more than 30-35 mph the temps dropped down quickly to under 30 Deg C. I might have bothered if I was still driving in Germany where summer ambient can be 40 deg C. but by then I'd run for cool beer and a house aircon.anyway.
Seals. Unless you get the old seals really clean in petrol/spirit they do have a habit of leaking, I found investing in advanced automotive new gasket kits and some black silicon bond where less frustrating.
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