2.35 Engine
#31
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Im not sure im able to help you decide giving my limited knowledge , but the 2.35 with a big gtx35.82 on the road is laggy unless your in the zone and i have found the top speed in higher gears is out of this world (licence loser)particularly in the manner it gets there , however if had my time again i would have to think very hard and would probably opt for the 2.5 cdb for the road with a smaller rotated set up .
#33
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Im not sure im able to help you decide giving my limited knowledge , but the 2.35 with a big gtx35.82 on the road is laggy unless your in the zone and i have found the top speed in higher gears is out of this world (licence loser)particularly in the manner it gets there , however if had my time again i would have to think very hard and would probably opt for the 2.5 cdb for the road with a smaller rotated set up .
1. Cannot be driven on the road to its potential.
2. Too quick for everyday use it's got to the stage where it very rarely goes out unless its dry.
Last edited by 1509joe; 17 June 2020 at 09:53 PM.
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#35
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LOoool,When was that?I have a life outside of scoobynet you know and cannot always be online...Ask any member on here if advice is needed and I am online I do my best to help... Patronising?Kaosone knows how I joke so don't lose any sleep,I won't!.SJ.
Last edited by stonejedi; 17 June 2020 at 10:29 PM.
#37
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iTrader: (6)
A completely different option to get to 2.35 was something i read about years back - someone took a 2.0 CDB, bored it out enormously (maybe even enough to get rid of all the cylinder wall), and replaced them with thick liners in steel. I can't remember who it was, and it might be something I've just made up, but if not, it would maybe also be an option.
Not sure it'd work out cheaper than an ej22 block, however, and there's the risk of liners dropping etc etc, so maybe not a worthwhile avenue.
Not sure it'd work out cheaper than an ej22 block, however, and there's the risk of liners dropping etc etc, so maybe not a worthwhile avenue.
Also, what are people's thoughts on a 2.5 CDB de-stroked 2.35 engine?
#39
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Just noticed RCM are selling a bare EJ22 block for £2895 on ebay currently. Madness. I should have bought some of these blocks when they were still £500 a set.
#42
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I agree as it's not a true CDB with the inserts. It depends what engine builder you speak to on this. I know that even with the inserts Paul Finch won't build a 2.5 engine rated over 450bhp for anyone which is the same as Richard Cope. Whereas Alyn @ AS has built loads of sleeved 2.5 engines running huge power now without issue. The 2.5 block will always be second behind the genuine EJ22 block, but if you're not aiming for 800bhp 2.35 and are only after the perfect 2.35 reving and capacity balance at say 500bhp tops then it could be a contender at a fraction of the price of a genuine EJ22 conversion.
Just noticed RCM are selling a bare EJ22 block for £2895 on ebay currently. Madness. I should have bought some of these blocks when they were still £500 a set.
Just noticed RCM are selling a bare EJ22 block for £2895 on ebay currently. Madness. I should have bought some of these blocks when they were still £500 a set.
£2895 for a 2.2 block, holy moly!!
#43
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iTrader: (6)
However Alyn gives a much rosier view of the 2.5 due to the shear number he has done the conversion on and rebuilt with success.
#44
Scooby Regular
Nope, even with the full CDB conversion Paul & Rich won't build a 2.5 over 450bhp. Richard has seen a lot of cracked liners on used re-bored 2.5 blocks even on forged rebuilt engines so refuses to put his name to one just in case. He told me the only way he'd ever consider a 2.5 engine build is with a brand new 2.5 block and the CDB inserts and would still cap it at 450bhp. lol.
However Alyn gives a much rosier view of the 2.5 due to the shear number he has done the conversion on and rebuilt with success.
However Alyn gives a much rosier view of the 2.5 due to the shear number he has done the conversion on and rebuilt with success.
makes you wonder why these builder won't rate higher than they do when over in the states you can buy a crate block rated to 1000bhp with a warranty lol ,, and at half the cost of what they try and charge over here as well ,,, there can't be some sort of magic they use as we can get all the sam parts so why can't you get them rated the same over here I wonder ? prob experience with the 2.5 in my view but who knows
my 2.5 was built by Andy kindon and was rated to around 600bhp
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#45
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makes you wonder why these builder won't rate higher than they do when over in the states you can buy a crate block rated to 1000bhp with a warranty lol ,, and at half the cost of what they try and charge over here as well ,,, there can't be some sort of magic they use as we can get all the sam parts so why can't you get them rated the same over here I wonder ? prob experience with the 2.5 in my view but who knows
my 2.5 was built by Andy kindon and was rated to around 600bhp
my 2.5 was built by Andy kindon and was rated to around 600bhp
Personally I wouldn't have any concerns with a big power 2.5 once converted to CDB.
#46
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Found it finally. Thought it was Rich @ FB who built a 2.35 from a 2.0 CDB. Here is the for sale thread for his 655bhp classic with the detail.
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-444...pec-650hp.html
https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-444...pec-650hp.html
#47
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
There was a WRX hatch at surrey rolling road the other week that laid down 485BHP on the standard block.
(Clearly that’s not an endorsement).
(Clearly that’s not an endorsement).
#49
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
#50
I am a big fan of the 2.35 built on. 22T block
I ran a 2.5 at 500bhp for a year, it used to use oil and did not take timing that well.
I switched to a 2.35 and over night it transformed the car and have been running 700bhp for ten years now.
I did one refresh as I felt like not because of issues.
And I had to replace the head gaskets once (RCM stopper gaskets)
i now fit supertec ringed motorsport gaskets and touch wood they seem good.
I have not tried a 2.5 with a closed deck plate, while 22t blocks are still around I will stick to what I know works well at this level.
I also build the engine in the team legacy car this is now also running the same headgaskets too and will be pushing that engine a bit harder once the race season finally starts.
I ran a 2.5 at 500bhp for a year, it used to use oil and did not take timing that well.
I switched to a 2.35 and over night it transformed the car and have been running 700bhp for ten years now.
I did one refresh as I felt like not because of issues.
And I had to replace the head gaskets once (RCM stopper gaskets)
i now fit supertec ringed motorsport gaskets and touch wood they seem good.
I have not tried a 2.5 with a closed deck plate, while 22t blocks are still around I will stick to what I know works well at this level.
I also build the engine in the team legacy car this is now also running the same headgaskets too and will be pushing that engine a bit harder once the race season finally starts.
#52
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#53
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maybe if one started with one of these: https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart= (thick walled ej20, SCD), one could build something interesting.
Coupled with a CDB insert, it might be the strongest option of them all, but granted lacking 0.2-0.25 litres of volume if stroked
Coupled with a CDB insert, it might be the strongest option of them all, but granted lacking 0.2-0.25 litres of volume if stroked
#55
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iTrader: (5)
I think RCM had 800+ out of a 2.0 a while back, so the 2.0 CDB can definitely be strong
The gobstopper spec is discussed (briefly) here: https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog...ark-motorsport
The gobstopper spec is discussed (briefly) here: https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog...ark-motorsport
Last edited by Henrik; 19 June 2020 at 04:02 PM.
#56
The 2.0 CDB with a 79mm Stoke is very strong but when you put a turbo that's big enuff to use the strength they become a little laggy.
i have been on track with a car with similar set up as mine but a 2.1 instead of my 2.35 and he was shocked how mine picked up out of the corners
roger Clark use NOZ and a sequential box to get round this but thing get to another level of expense then!
i have been on track with a car with similar set up as mine but a 2.1 instead of my 2.35 and he was shocked how mine picked up out of the corners
roger Clark use NOZ and a sequential box to get round this but thing get to another level of expense then!
#58
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
As much as I’d love a 2.1 stroker, I am now thinking a 2.5 is probably the best bet. More torque & spool from increased capacity (& my mates 457BHP 335i is now making 420ft-lb of torque @ 3200rpm & need all the help I can get ).
#59
Scooby Regular
a 2.5 de-stroked is NOT the same as a 2.2 stroked to 2.35 in terms of strength or character IMO and personally feel your missing the point and benefit of the larger bore anyhows..........we have done them after insistence and work fine but not my choice as would leave 2.5
the big issue with the EJ22T these days is rarity and hence cost........for the near £3K some are charging we could easily supply a custom ductile iron sleeved block to whatever capacity you wish with change......also they only have a 4bolt bell housing and have been known to twist and crack blocks especially with sequential box use
std 2.5 blocks all suffer from weak/thin liners and we did post cut block pix on 22b.com not sure if its still there struggle these days due to photo****et issues - the CDB does help massively with this and have had plenty running far beyond 450???
the newer "thick walled" block are NOT the benefit most assume as Subaru changed their machining process and unless a very early / original block they have a huge cut-away in the cylinder liner which means they crack on this stress point!!
not sure which 'best' you have used Tidgy but we have done liner installs for the likes of AndyF without issue so I guess we must be just about OK ??
the big issue with the EJ22T these days is rarity and hence cost........for the near £3K some are charging we could easily supply a custom ductile iron sleeved block to whatever capacity you wish with change......also they only have a 4bolt bell housing and have been known to twist and crack blocks especially with sequential box use
std 2.5 blocks all suffer from weak/thin liners and we did post cut block pix on 22b.com not sure if its still there struggle these days due to photo****et issues - the CDB does help massively with this and have had plenty running far beyond 450???
the newer "thick walled" block are NOT the benefit most assume as Subaru changed their machining process and unless a very early / original block they have a huge cut-away in the cylinder liner which means they crack on this stress point!!
not sure which 'best' you have used Tidgy but we have done liner installs for the likes of AndyF without issue so I guess we must be just about OK ??