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Does one need a Robocop leg to operate it and is it like an ON/OFF switch?
Ive got the 700hp version and the pedal is softer than the previous clutch......... However it took 1500 miles to bed in, all street miles no motor way, it juddered all the way until about 1300 miles but now is ok, i have to say it made me hate my car.
Does one need a Robocop leg to operate it and is it like an ON/OFF switch?
Its more a case of where you are going to be with you cars power in the future.
Suppliers of these Excedy Pink Stage 1 MAX TORQUE @ FLYWHEEL 370 lb.ft./500 Nm cost £400-450
TBH that's easy to reach / exceed on a built 2.5 My medium tuned 2.0 already has 330 lb/ft
And your 2.5ltr has 300lb/ft as standard Id expect you would get >50 lb/ft just with a remap,
So get on the phone to Martyn at Plymouth ET , he cant do any mapping for you right now due to Covid
but getting his advice and the right clutch in now will save you money in the long run.
The Stage 2 Race clutch will increase plate pressure considerably , but will give you peace of mind
see www.importcarparts.co.uk they do these for £325 so its a no brainer really.
and your misses won't need to go to the Gym , think of the money you will save.
These are Whiteline rack bushes, albeit from a spec c 13:1 rack, after 5 months, when they failed an MOT. I wouldn't recommend using them. Sorry if anyone is bored of seeing them, but they are much too soft a composition.
edit; they were replaced with black race series Powerflex
Last edited by hedgecutter; 13 January 2021 at 09:53 PM.
These are Whiteline rack bushes, albeit from a spec c 13:1 rack, after 5 months, when they failed an MOT. I wouldn't recommend using them. Sorry if anyone is bored of seeing them, but they are much too soft a composition.
edit; they were replaced with black race series Powerflex
Oh that's strange, heard nothing but good things about the kit?? Did Whiteline return the money?
Oooooooh. I had them in the garage ready to fit anyway before engine went pop so thought may as well ask ET to chuck these on whilst it's all easily accessible..
Have the rack bushes got a bad rep across the board with SN members?
Whiteline UK are actually very good at honouring warranty, and refunded quickly. They also replaced my front suspension mounts that failed. But the cost and time of replacing products that fail within a year obviously isn't covered. The problem is that their products aren't made in Australia anymore, and quality control is severely lacking. The arbs that were fitted at the same time rusted within 3 months, and their rear drop links were completely different in terms of movement, before fitting; one was loose and free moving, the other stiff.
The Superpro arb and links fitted at the same time still look like new, so my trust in Whiteline as a quality brand is no longer, and I don't really understand why reputable garages promote them. On another thread here about the top mounts, Alyn commented that he had never seen any problems, only to have a number of us produce photos of torn mounts with siezed bearings, proving that retailers are often unaware of how poorly products may perform.
Whiteline UK are actually very good at honouring warranty, and refunded quickly. They also replaced my front suspension mounts that failed. But the cost and time of replacing products that fail within a year obviously isn't covered. The problem is that their products aren't made in Australia anymore, and quality control is severely lacking. The arbs that were fitted at the same time rusted within 3 months, and their rear drop links were completely different in terms of movement, before fitting; one was loose and free moving, the other stiff.
The Superpro arb and links fitted at the same time still look like new, so my trust in Whiteline as a quality brand is no longer, and I don't really understand why reputable garages promote them. On another thread here about the top mounts, Alyn commented that he had never seen any problems, only to have a number of us produce photos of torn mounts with siezed bearings, proving that retailers are often unaware of how poorly products may perform.
I was one of the folk who had those WL castor top mounts fail, if you look at the nasioc forum there are many that have split or the bearing failed.
Whiteline UK are actually very good at honouring warranty, and refunded quickly. They also replaced my front suspension mounts that failed. But the cost and time of replacing products that fail within a year obviously isn't covered. The problem is that their products aren't made in Australia anymore, and quality control is severely lacking. The arbs that were fitted at the same time rusted within 3 months, and their rear drop links were completely different in terms of movement, before fitting; one was loose and free moving, the other stiff.
The Superpro arb and links fitted at the same time still look like new, so my trust in Whiteline as a quality brand is no longer, and I don't really understand why reputable garages promote them. On another thread here about the top mounts, Alyn commented that he had never seen any problems, only to have a number of us produce photos of torn mounts with siezed bearings, proving that retailers are often unaware of how poorly products may perform.
Synthetic Elastomer , Basically its production needs quite a bit of care , and close recipe control of batch components and production environmental / storage conditions.
Get it wrong and you end up with a Sticky Tootpaste or a Lumpy Christmas pudding.
For example Its final durability / elastic properties can depend on the amount of moisture O2 present in its raw material components as to how it eventually sets,
Water is a by product of the setting process , but if too much is present in the raw material powders then the full polymer reaction (setting action) cannot be properly concluded.
Thorough mixing of the components is essential to ensure a uniform reaction , otherwise incomplete single long chain reactions occur and the Elastomer that results is no longer uniform Homogenic (it breaks up between soft and hard regions )
Many of you will know that principle and problem from using body fillers like plastic padding.
During my time as an Automotiv QM , I developed an eye for materials and the bushings look like a manufacturing issue and for me if I were in the company, Id be looking to investigate the production location as clearly (for me) something is wrong.
If I can visually compare on the same Web site two identical applications next to each other and see two totally different qualities. But I leave everyone to Judge for themselves.
These look to have been soft , they shine a lot and have ragged edges from the form, which look potentially to me to be not properly cured or a raw material recipe % issue.
These are on the front page of the Internet site , My visual opinion above only ,to confirm you would need to QA these with a stress test in the Lab.
Typically a fast check would be to measure Shore hardness versus Mfg specification. Id be looking for a Durometer reading of >70 Shore hardness,
but whatever there should be a specification set to check.
Actually there is another technical reason for changing the colour in the materials and that is used for example in the screen printing industry
The "shore" hardness of squeegee blades "can" be , but is unfortunately not specified /classified worldwide by its colour as
Orange 60
Yellow 70
Green 75
Blue 80
Red 85
Translucent 90
Squeegee durometer values from 50A to 95A. This is measured by a durometer gauge, and measured based on standards established by ASTM procedures. (American Standard Testing materials) . For the sake of simplicity, we will call soft – 60A, medium – 70A, and 80A – a hard Squeegee, and 90A -extra hard. Plastics/Squeegees are measured in various scales of hardness. Shore A scale is the most widely used for measuring Squeegee material. The values are based on readings There are many different styles of durometer gauges available on the market. All of the durometer gauges on the market have a dial indicator with a small needle head that measures the hardness of the Squeegee. A durometer gauge is identical to a tension meter. Like a tension meter, a durometer gauge should be calibrated on a regular basis. (1 time per year). The small needle head penetrates into the material, and indicates the hardness of the rubber.
My original guess was close Ideal hardness for sway bars 90 durometer polyurethane My guess would be your rack bushing should be harder still and likely best in a Polypropylene
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 14 January 2021 at 05:12 PM.
SuperPro manufactures their rack and pinion bushings with polyurethane, giving you a much stronger, longer lasting mount that will still absorb some of the vibration from the road to the steering wheel. Polyurethane doesn't flex like rubber, is much more resistant to heat, and is unaffected by oil, so it's lifespan is much longer. Polyurethane does allow more vibration from the road, but SuperPro's lifetime warranty, which includes 4x4 applications, means you don't have to worry about replacing these bushings again.
So added to the list is competition clutch and engine painting with shiny new nuts/bolts. Contemplating 4th cylinder cooling mod as engine is out and relatively inexpensive bolt on.
So added to the list is competition clutch and engine painting with shiny new nuts/bolts. Contemplating 4th cylinder cooling mod as engine is out and relatively inexpensive bolt on.
Saw your car yesterday parked up in front of ET my first thought was your front suspension was on steriods
so can confirm the engine is out.
Actually there is another technical reason for changing the colour in the materials and that is used for example in the screen printing industry
The "shore" hardness of squeegee blades "can" be , but is unfortunately not specified /classified worldwide by its colour as
Orange 60
Yellow 70
Green 75
Blue 80
Red 85
Translucent 90
Squeegee durometer values from 50A to 95A. This is measured by a durometer gauge, and measured based on standards established by ASTM procedures. (American Standard Testing materials) . For the sake of simplicity, we will call soft – 60A, medium – 70A, and 80A – a hard Squeegee, and 90A -extra hard. Plastics/Squeegees are measured in various scales of hardness. Shore A scale is the most widely used for measuring Squeegee material. The values are based on readings There are many different styles of durometer gauges available on the market. All of the durometer gauges on the market have a dial indicator with a small needle head that measures the hardness of the Squeegee. A durometer gauge is identical to a tension meter. Like a tension meter, a durometer gauge should be calibrated on a regular basis. (1 time per year). The small needle head penetrates into the material, and indicates the hardness of the rubber.
My original guess was close Ideal hardness for sway bars 90 durometer polyurethane My guess would be your rack bushing should be harder still and likely best in a Polypropylene
That's an interesting article, and in the comments section it is confirmed that Whiteline parts were made in N Korea before moving to Vietnam.
Quick question, car is due back to me next weekend. Once back together, will it have an initial map for running in period or would it likely be left alone until running in is complete?
Quick question, car is due back to me next weekend. Once back together, will it have an initial map for running in period or would it likely be left alone until running in is complete?
If you kept to the spec list then you don't need a re-map, and unless Martyn has been scheduled to do one then you will just have the original map.
Needing one depends really if you placed anything else ( 3 port EBCS suggested by Apollo ) on the back seat for ET to fit ?
Personally I wouldn't just fit that for a remap. Id run the car till you have the oil change done and I presume ET are doing that,
Next step, is to fit a less restrictive exhaust Either Full Decat / or Sports CAT downpipe also deleting the mid pipe cat, with a better flowing Cosworth or K&N Panel filter ,
once the flow restrictions are gone then you need Walbro 255 fuel pump , also fit the 3 port at this stage then remap.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah makes sense, wasn't sure whether it's normal practice to lower rpm / output right down to help prevent any damage during running in.
They are fitting a K&N typhoon system whilst car is in pieces but nothing else to the fuelling / intake systems.
It does have a standard exhaust system presently with straight centre pipe.
I won't be able to afford sports cats, fuel pumps or anyhthing else for a while now as this was not an expected bill and I've overspent already what Id budgeted
I'm not chasing big numbers, will be more than happy with 350-360bhp so hoping will achieve this without uprating the above?
Yes Enginetuner are changing oil after 60 miles and then I guess again after 1000 miles?
She's back, bay looks lovely. Running in now which is a dull old process but cant wait for the first map 💥
Nice weather today so took the opportunity to fit the Teins. Got a full set of new genuine strut bolts and camber bolts with new top mounts. Really chuffed; stock top mounts is so much better on road than solid.
Great to see the car all nice and shiny,
best keep it safe inside the garage, clear of flying debris in your area 😳
Photo 1 You will need to carefully straighten up the fins of the IC . These take damage if water from a HP lance is buzzed over the IC. a pressure pillow is created over the IC surface, If the fins are not straight the efficency of the IC is impaired. I found that removing the IC and carefully inserting a flat wooden spatula / chopstick from the underside was the most effective method.
The Teins will be superb , probably one of the most satisfying diy modification , you will find the handling transformed
I noticed the improvement most going into sharp curves whilst pushing quick on downhill roads. You will notice next that your braking points will be considerably later and therefore you need to take care on brake heat management. Enjoy :-)
Thanks for the reply. Yeah makes sense, wasn't sure whether it's normal practice to lower rpm / output right down to help prevent any damage during running in.
They are fitting a K&N typhoon system whilst car is in pieces but nothing else to the fuelling / intake systems.
It does have a standard exhaust system presently with straight centre pipe.
I won't be able to afford sports cats, fuel pumps or anyhthing else for a while now as this was not an expected bill and I've overspent already what Id budgeted
I'm not chasing big numbers, will be more than happy with 350-360bhp so hoping will achieve this without uprating the above?
Yes Enginetuner are changing oil after 60 miles and then I guess again after 1000 miles?
Yep, first with mineral oil and then on to semi synth at 1000 miles.
My hatch rebuild with ET got 352 bhp on a conservative map and she drives brilliantly, will be going back later this year for injectors and turbo and another Martyn remap.
13 January 2021 | 06:35 PM
http://www.suspension.com/blog/proth...you-to-choose/ this article covers the "fade to black" concept of whiteline making all product one colour.
Honest I just found this quote at suspension.com 
