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Right so update. Auto electrician came out, tested all the fuses, and couldn't get a signal from the OBD2 port, which was weird as garage who did cambelt said the same thing over a week ago. So not sure if related to issue. Said there was no power going to it.
Anyway he thinks it's an ECU fault not immobiliser, then he noticed that when the dash lights came on the engine management light didn't illuminate. Which I missed.
With this aswell he said 99% sure it's ecu. He thinks the starter motor sent a current back to the ecu and damaged it, when it was attempted to start.
Right so update. Auto electrician came out, tested all the fuses, and couldn't get a signal from the OBD2 port, which was weird as garage who did cambelt said the same thing over a week ago. So not sure if related to issue. Said there was no power going to it.
Anyway he thinks it's an ECU fault not immobiliser, then he noticed that when the dash lights came on the engine management light didn't illuminate. Which I missed.
With this aswell he said 99% sure it's ecu. He thinks the starter motor sent a current back to the ecu and damaged it, when it was attempted to start.
He will bench test the ecu to find out more.
Well least it sounds like your getting to the bottom of it finally
Right so update. Auto electrician came out, tested all the fuses, and couldn't get a signal from the OBD2 port, which was weird as garage who did cambelt said the same thing over a week ago. So not sure if related to issue. Said there was no power going to it.
Anyway he thinks it's an ECU fault not immobiliser, then he noticed that when the dash lights came on the engine management light didn't illuminate. Which I missed.
With this aswell he said 99% sure it's ecu. He thinks the starter motor sent a current back to the ecu and damaged it, when it was attempted to start.
He will bench test the ecu to find out more.
I may be wrong here but that's impossible as we use things called relays for controlling high current items with a low current capable switch.
No clue mate. I thought what he said sounded like it could be right as i removed the undertray to fit a new scoop on. Water could of got on starter then as we had some pretty insane side ways rain here. But if what you said was true, maybe blown a relay instead?
Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
I may be wrong here but that's impossible as we use things called relays for controlling high current items with a low current capable switch.
Back in the day older Imprezas used to suffer dodgy ignition switches. Worth checking to ensure there is a supply in and out if it, including the multiplug further down the steering column.
Ok cheers worth a check, as got all lower dash parts off.
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Back in the day older Imprezas used to suffer dodgy ignition switches. Worth checking to ensure there is a supply in and out if it, including the multiplug further down the steering column.
I’ve just skimmed through this as it’s late but have you ran a wire from the small terminal on the starter and tried touching the live on the battery to see if it cranks over?
I’ve just skimmed through this as it’s late but have you ran a wire from the small terminal on the starter and tried touching the live on the battery to see if it cranks over?
It's gone in garage for further testing. They think the ECU has been immobilised somehow. So let's see what they come up with.
Well hopefully they will find the issue, I will be speaking to a good mate of mine in the week he knows Subaru’s inside out I will ask him what he thinks he might come up with something else, I think Alyn made a good point though
Said he think's the starter motor has failed and done the ECU in, number of earthing faults on the loom both sides of the bulk head.
Originally Posted by bunsofsteeeel
Well hopefully they will find the issue, I will be speaking to a good mate of mine in the week he knows Subaru’s inside out I will ask him what he thinks he might come up with something else, I think Alyn made a good point though
I know the car is in at the mechanics now just a little tldr from my recent escapades with a classic was the number 33 fuse. Visually looked fine but when removed for testing was blown down by the post itself. It is the main fuse that runs everything once the car tries to start so the Ecu tells the main Relay under the dash to power the fuel pump and starter using the power from this fuse. Not sure if is applicable to a newage as I'm not familiar with the wiring layout.
Symptoms were the same as a no power from ecu/faulty ecu. I trust auto electricians as far as I can throw them as the number 33 fuse is a clear top and can be visually checked not many will remove to check properly.
In my situation it the previous owners weren't able to diagnose the fault as just a faulty fuse so the loom got cut, "the obd" port did not have power but the Diag port for sub-techs did so they directly linked them together. All kinds of wrong but it did run.
Right so update, so collected the car finally and Auto electrician said that the starter motor had been arcing out as loose connection on the rear of starter motor, (pervious owner changed it himself) said he thinks it had been arcing out for sometime, he thinks it had sent feedback to the ECU that had caused the ECU to be locked out.
Said there was low voltage, coming from the alternator, not sure if this was damaged as result of the starter motor
He said there were a few wires on the loom that were burnt and few that had breaks in them.
So he had to replace ECU and recoded it, guessing to the transponder as he only had 1 key. Said it would need new alternator, fuse box, wiring.
Not sure if all the work was done that's listed but will be checking, as took pictures of old ecu before it went of, and will be checking the loom etc.
Thanks for the input bud, that would have been handy too know few weeks ago
He did mention a few of the slow blow fuses had gone and they can look fine on top and even run a current though them but are done for. I'm just hoping it wasn't that simple or we been super ripped off.
As I said I will be checking if things have been replaced.
Originally Posted by Lorolla
I know the car is in at the mechanics now just a little tldr from my recent escapades with a classic was the number 33 fuse. Visually looked fine but when removed for testing was blown down by the post itself. It is the main fuse that runs everything once the car tries to start so the Ecu tells the main Relay under the dash to power the fuel pump and starter using the power from this fuse. Not sure if is applicable to a newage as I'm not familiar with the wiring layout.
Symptoms were the same as a no power from ecu/faulty ecu. I trust auto electricians as far as I can throw them as the number 33 fuse is a clear top and can be visually checked not many will remove to check properly.
In my situation it the previous owners weren't able to diagnose the fault as just a faulty fuse so the loom got cut, "the obd" port did not have power but the Diag port for sub-techs did so they directly linked them together. All kinds of wrong but it did run.
Just my 2p but wouldn't it have caused all sorts of issues when you start it, not when you are driving as there is no load being drawn by the starter once the car is running, even if what they claim is true.
Just my 2p but wouldn't it have caused all sorts of issues when you start it, not when you are driving as there is no load being drawn by the starter once the car is running, even if what they claim is true.
21 February 2022, 06:55 PM
