FAO Tek2 people, whats your opinion on it
#32
Drag it!
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erm..... scrap that idea its persisting down up here and i cant get in my garage so will have to wait a day or so.
i cant see how this would suddenly affect the drop in performance, me things there could be a garden path somewhere and i may be walking up it
will try and take pictures as i do the actuator rod. i think ozzy posted some earlier under a thread by scoobyjawa.
keep you posted!
i cant see how this would suddenly affect the drop in performance, me things there could be a garden path somewhere and i may be walking up it
will try and take pictures as i do the actuator rod. i think ozzy posted some earlier under a thread by scoobyjawa.
keep you posted!
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Chris,
Thanks for the offer (I live in Dunblane). I've arranged with John to get a tek3 on mid August - so no going back now
Take it you're happy with the results? Did you run a Dawes before?
Richard.
Thanks for the offer (I live in Dunblane). I've arranged with John to get a tek3 on mid August - so no going back now
Take it you're happy with the results? Did you run a Dawes before?
Richard.
#36
Yep, I'm happy with the result
I do miss the throttle response/kick up the @rse that the dawes gave but the TEK map is much stronger over all. It really does pull harder for longer and as said elsewhere, you can reach the redline without realising.
IMHO a car with a TEK3 and decat is much stronger on the road than a standard PPP car.
In addition to the extra performance I am getting about 40 miles more per tank of fuel, which is nice
BTW you won't be dissapointed with the service you get from John Banks, he is a real perfectionist
I do miss the throttle response/kick up the @rse that the dawes gave but the TEK map is much stronger over all. It really does pull harder for longer and as said elsewhere, you can reach the redline without realising.
IMHO a car with a TEK3 and decat is much stronger on the road than a standard PPP car.
In addition to the extra performance I am getting about 40 miles more per tank of fuel, which is nice
BTW you won't be dissapointed with the service you get from John Banks, he is a real perfectionist
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John is based north of Edinburgh - across the water in Dunfermline.
Chris, glad you're happy. You're right about John He fitted my dawes for me - great guy and knows his stuff.
Richard.
Chris, glad you're happy. You're right about John He fitted my dawes for me - great guy and knows his stuff.
Richard.
#46
Can anyone tell me whats roughly involved in a Tek 3 Upgrade and how much it would cost. Do you need to change any other bits besides the ECU in order to make the car relaible since you will have more power?
#47
Tek3 is a Tek2 with custom mapping.
So it can take account of whatever you have.
I think sometimes JB's 'adapted' Tek2 is referred to as a Tek3, just to make sure everyone is muddled
So it can take account of whatever you have.
I think sometimes JB's 'adapted' Tek2 is referred to as a Tek3, just to make sure everyone is muddled
#48
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running the car leaner will improve the MOT results ( old cars remove the air filter ! better flowrate = leaner) From reading all the stuff on TEK2 it would look as if it leans the car out a little ? so might be better.
sorry for going over stuff but this is all part of my Do I really need this thought process keep trying to tell myself I don't but it's not working.
sorry for going over stuff but this is all part of my Do I really need this thought process keep trying to tell myself I don't but it's not working.
#49
Tek1 and Tek2 are off-the-shelf plug and go (ish!) Tek3 is a custom map but there is nothing stopping you from getting a Tek2 now and then going back to John or Bob Rawle and having it tweaked for a little bit more go! The Tek2 is a very safe map and there is room to push things a little futher if you don't mind loosing some of the 'saftey margins'
Neal
Running a Tek2.xx 'whatever it's called' tweaked by BR!
Neal
Running a Tek2.xx 'whatever it's called' tweaked by BR!
#50
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Right!!!
Check the size of the hole on the blitz induction kit and it is the same size as the MAF housing. Seems like that path i was going to walk up, i did. Anyway another one off the check list.
Shortened actuator rod half turn and this has certainly helped maintain boost once its there!
Not sure its done anything for spool up though!
I have created new thread for pictures on the actuator rod.
Oh well shall have to wait till another day to see what lies in store for checking next!
Check the size of the hole on the blitz induction kit and it is the same size as the MAF housing. Seems like that path i was going to walk up, i did. Anyway another one off the check list.
Shortened actuator rod half turn and this has certainly helped maintain boost once its there!
Not sure its done anything for spool up though!
I have created new thread for pictures on the actuator rod.
Oh well shall have to wait till another day to see what lies in store for checking next!
#51
john's tek2.5,is based on the map he gave me for track days and tested on a few other cars he has done since.
I think if I did not do the track days,I would ask for a 18psi map with a needle valve,so that I could keep it there but I do have a lambda,knocklink and intake probe fitted.imho a lamdba and knock link should be fitted to all impreza's,knock is probably not that important when all the ecu's safety features are still connected but a lambda should tell you when the maf is goosed and leaning you out too much.
I have edited one of my earlier posts as scoobyjawa is correct.I had a shot of a m8's dawes my00 car today and it was better than I recalled.low down it still feels cr4p but as my car is only hitting 15ish psi just now the kick his gave with 16psi felt good.
I think if I did not do the track days,I would ask for a 18psi map with a needle valve,so that I could keep it there but I do have a lambda,knocklink and intake probe fitted.imho a lamdba and knock link should be fitted to all impreza's,knock is probably not that important when all the ecu's safety features are still connected but a lambda should tell you when the maf is goosed and leaning you out too much.
I have edited one of my earlier posts as scoobyjawa is correct.I had a shot of a m8's dawes my00 car today and it was better than I recalled.low down it still feels cr4p but as my car is only hitting 15ish psi just now the kick his gave with 16psi felt good.
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T-uk and I are good friends and discuss and try out mods for far too many hours of the week
Tricky one. The Dawes is such a good VFM product and delivers a lot of power and torque. The driveability on part throttle does suffer no matter how you set it up. The boost control in different conditions and in lower gears is actually better than the original ECU, even remapped. The punch in the back in the lower gears is marked because of the speed of spool up - there is less wastegate creep than you can get with the ECU because the feedback control is much stronger, whereas the standard ECU has to use a duty cycle that will not overboost in 5th gear on a cold day or on the track, hence the low boost levels mentioned. I could map my car to use a Dawes, but would not like the part throttle condition.
I ran my TD04L at 19 PSI in the Scottish winter and it was great and did not det. However, I am convinced that on the original turbo/intercooler 18 PSI + for all conditions is too high even on a road car. The turbo is just not efficient, producing heat, backpressure and risk of detonation. So if people get to 16.5 PSI with a Dawes, then I put them up to 17.5 PSI or so in cold conditions, then I gain them a bit of torque from this extra boost, but only in the higher gears. The ignition at higher boost levels is a struggle to advance much because of the exhaust back pressure and intake temperatures, so all you have left is the fuelling which you can lean out a bit. In the end you have a car that not only beats a Dawes for figures, although not by much, but is much more smooth and driveable on part throttle. Just the limits of what we have to work with with near standard cars. I am not happy to push them any further unless they are more heavily modified. I cannot start mapping cars that would be unsafe if someone tracked them - that is too close to the edge even if they are not tracked.
Tricky one. The Dawes is such a good VFM product and delivers a lot of power and torque. The driveability on part throttle does suffer no matter how you set it up. The boost control in different conditions and in lower gears is actually better than the original ECU, even remapped. The punch in the back in the lower gears is marked because of the speed of spool up - there is less wastegate creep than you can get with the ECU because the feedback control is much stronger, whereas the standard ECU has to use a duty cycle that will not overboost in 5th gear on a cold day or on the track, hence the low boost levels mentioned. I could map my car to use a Dawes, but would not like the part throttle condition.
I ran my TD04L at 19 PSI in the Scottish winter and it was great and did not det. However, I am convinced that on the original turbo/intercooler 18 PSI + for all conditions is too high even on a road car. The turbo is just not efficient, producing heat, backpressure and risk of detonation. So if people get to 16.5 PSI with a Dawes, then I put them up to 17.5 PSI or so in cold conditions, then I gain them a bit of torque from this extra boost, but only in the higher gears. The ignition at higher boost levels is a struggle to advance much because of the exhaust back pressure and intake temperatures, so all you have left is the fuelling which you can lean out a bit. In the end you have a car that not only beats a Dawes for figures, although not by much, but is much more smooth and driveable on part throttle. Just the limits of what we have to work with with near standard cars. I am not happy to push them any further unless they are more heavily modified. I cannot start mapping cars that would be unsafe if someone tracked them - that is too close to the edge even if they are not tracked.
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