Best way 0-60 in SCOOBY????????????????
#31
ADP - yes I agree, I have tried a few different ways and I suppose it depends what power you are packing & what clutch & gearbox you have. However I havn't tracked, sprinted etc...so I always value peoples opinions if they have more experience than me
I got a borg'n'beck one in mine, about mid range clutch wise I suppose? & find that it still struggles a bit with the power, it always has bitten at the top, right at the top btw...is that down to adjustment ?
I probably would get the car off the line at maximum traction/power...3 times out of 10 ??? I prefer to be realistic about these things, then when you have kids they don't grow up to be kn0bs
shunty
I got a borg'n'beck one in mine, about mid range clutch wise I suppose? & find that it still struggles a bit with the power, it always has bitten at the top, right at the top btw...is that down to adjustment ?
I probably would get the car off the line at maximum traction/power...3 times out of 10 ??? I prefer to be realistic about these things, then when you have kids they don't grow up to be kn0bs
shunty
#33
Yes there is a lot of energy in the flywheel, but I didn't mean you should just not worry about using the throttle!
What I am talking about is not worrying about lack of boost whilst you are moving off the line, in the first 10 feet or so, just to get the clutch engaged fully. After that the boost is generally looking pretty good, and thottle is flat.
As for transmissions, another reason 1st and 2nd are so fragile, is due to the small gears on the input shaft, which will have slightly different (weaker) profile due to the size, and the load on the teeth will be huge. Just think of them as a lever (which they are if you take a snapshot in time), where torque is a product of offset (small) and force (uge).
I experimented again (roundabout dash) and found that 4500 worked just as well as 5000 in the dry.
Something that did work, which I tried when I got the car was trying to let the clutch out as the revs were rising with full throttle. I think I must have got a little boost, but the clutch started to slip and never stopped. Might be good if you have a stronger clutch, but wouldn't be much good in a lights start when you have to react and go.
Paul
What I am talking about is not worrying about lack of boost whilst you are moving off the line, in the first 10 feet or so, just to get the clutch engaged fully. After that the boost is generally looking pretty good, and thottle is flat.
As for transmissions, another reason 1st and 2nd are so fragile, is due to the small gears on the input shaft, which will have slightly different (weaker) profile due to the size, and the load on the teeth will be huge. Just think of them as a lever (which they are if you take a snapshot in time), where torque is a product of offset (small) and force (uge).
I experimented again (roundabout dash) and found that 4500 worked just as well as 5000 in the dry.
Something that did work, which I tried when I got the car was trying to let the clutch out as the revs were rising with full throttle. I think I must have got a little boost, but the clutch started to slip and never stopped. Might be good if you have a stronger clutch, but wouldn't be much good in a lights start when you have to react and go.
Paul
#34
Tryed 0-60 sprint at TRAX this weekend. I was C***P, shamless,a discrace to my car> sorry netters. I was told to REV to 6000 and drop the clutch and go? Sounded well harsh to me! what should i do or not do? on a 0-60 sprint? would it damage much doing 6000 revs and dropping the clutch?? ETC
CHEERS CHEESY
[Edited by cheesy - 9/11/2002 7:48:51 PM]
CHEERS CHEESY
[Edited by cheesy - 9/11/2002 7:48:51 PM]
#35
Saxo and SCO
In lower gears there is more stress on the transmission because the effective torque being applied to the wheels is higher.
The difference in flywheel to wheel torque is highest, hence more load/strain on the bits in between (the transmission)
As an example as engine speed is geared down (say 1st gear) the effect of the gearing is to produce higher torque at wheels figure than in higher gears. This is why, notwithstanding air resistance, cars accelerate faste in low gears. Take away air resistance and they would still accelerate faster in low gears.
Hope this helps!
D
ps - edited to add, this is the reason why rolling road figures should only be used for comparative purposes and not quoted as gospel..LOL...
[Edited by Diablo - 9/12/2002 1:16:28 PM]
In lower gears there is more stress on the transmission because the effective torque being applied to the wheels is higher.
The difference in flywheel to wheel torque is highest, hence more load/strain on the bits in between (the transmission)
As an example as engine speed is geared down (say 1st gear) the effect of the gearing is to produce higher torque at wheels figure than in higher gears. This is why, notwithstanding air resistance, cars accelerate faste in low gears. Take away air resistance and they would still accelerate faster in low gears.
Hope this helps!
D
ps - edited to add, this is the reason why rolling road figures should only be used for comparative purposes and not quoted as gospel..LOL...
[Edited by Diablo - 9/12/2002 1:16:28 PM]
#36
you store an awful lot of energy in the flywheel, so boost on launch is less of a problem, at peak revs it's there or there abouts.
Try this - hold 5000 revs on part throttle (requires very little throttle opening as no load) and release clutch with no increase in throttle opening. Car will probably stall.
Flywheel is there to store energy for the purposes (primarily) of keeping the engine rotating in the desired direction, not generally nowadays as a means of providing motive force for the vehicle. Modern flywheels are too small.
D
[Edited by Diablo - 9/12/2002 1:14:58 PM]
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