engine earth,,wow what a difference!!!!!!
04 November 2002, 10:02 AM
#32
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: oustide the asylum?
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it usually at LEAST makes the audio sound better
I'll seond that. Not got the stereo install finished to my liking yet, but what's there does sound better.
04 November 2002, 01:20 PM
#33
I did this mod a while back, cold hesitation was slightly better and the stereo was a tad brighter.
My car is a MY00 so not much corrosion going on yet to affect earthing anyway.
My main reason for doing this was to clean up the ECU signals 'like what Bob Rawl has done. Oh and to gain 60 BHP for 30p
If you have some wire and an hour spare then it's worth doing. Remember to spread some petroleum jelly on the terminals afterwards or waxoil.
F
My car is a MY00 so not much corrosion going on yet to affect earthing anyway.
My main reason for doing this was to clean up the ECU signals 'like what Bob Rawl has done. Oh and to gain 60 BHP for 30p
If you have some wire and an hour spare then it's worth doing. Remember to spread some petroleum jelly on the terminals afterwards or waxoil.
F
04 November 2002, 01:42 PM
#34
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did this myself last week by coincidence and have noted the same..
Runs so much better,,
Halfords sell battery wires.. cost me about 8quid and the cable has the connectors on already.. two 18inch and one 24inch length did the job a treat..
Has even stopped my cold start missfire (so far)
JGM
Runs so much better,,
Halfords sell battery wires.. cost me about 8quid and the cable has the connectors on already.. two 18inch and one 24inch length did the job a treat..
Has even stopped my cold start missfire (so far)
JGM
04 November 2002, 04:10 PM
#35
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Me thinks theres going to b a rush on 6 mm cable this weekend. Just been and got mine.lol . O well off to do it. let us nkow guys what YOU think of it after youve done it please.
04 November 2002, 04:36 PM
#36
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did mine slightlty different looking at the pics..
From bat - to drivers suspension turret... one of the three nuts..
From Bat - to inlet manifold..
From other suspension turret to other side of inlet manifold..
On the Phase 1 engine there is two nice and easy to use bolts on the inlet manifold.. drivers side holder the throttle cable..
passenger side holds a pipe near the battery..
JGM
From bat - to drivers suspension turret... one of the three nuts..
From Bat - to inlet manifold..
From other suspension turret to other side of inlet manifold..
On the Phase 1 engine there is two nice and easy to use bolts on the inlet manifold.. drivers side holder the throttle cable..
passenger side holds a pipe near the battery..
JGM
04 November 2002, 04:38 PM
#37
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have also found this is anyone wants more info..
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=865
JGM
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=865
JGM
04 November 2002, 08:34 PM
#38
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did my Evo6 a few months back, theres a HKS kit you can buy if you want to really go to town on a good looking setup, costs around £100 though 
Carnt say i noticed any difference but each car is different i spose.
Rich
Carnt say i noticed any difference but each car is different i spose.
Rich
04 November 2002, 08:47 PM
#40
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not an electrician but it sounds like it's worth doing it anyway.
What cables & bits do I need & where can I get them?
It sounds not too complicated but some basic instructions would be great!!
Thx..
What cables & bits do I need & where can I get them?
It sounds not too complicated but some basic instructions would be great!!
Thx..
04 November 2002, 10:18 PM
#42
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: walsall,west midlands
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its dead easy to do,no drilling required.
things you need,
1,go to your nerest electrical wholesaler,newey eyre,city electrical factors,lockwell,etc,
ask to buy a roll of 6mm single heat resistant cable(choose colour,black,red,blue,yellow,whatever)(10mm would be better but it starts to stand out in the engine bay) or if you can ask if they can sell you about 20 meters(to be on the safe side) of the stuff.
the cable is of a slightly flexible feel and has 40 odd very thin copper wires in it to make the 6mm radius,(see pic back in 1st page of this topic).
or alternativly goto halfords or any car sterio centre and buy some there.as it can be used by the bass junkies out there to supply their amp,etc..
2,whilst at one of these shops buy approx 6 crimps,(lugs)with a 8mm hole in them (see pic)but make sure they fit snugly onto the cable when the end has been stripped off(the guys at the shop should be able to help you here).
3,you need a crimping tool to "crimp" the lugs onto the cable(goto b&q or focus etc and get a cheap one)
and thats all you need,unless you plan to fit more earths to your engine/body work(the more the better i suppose).
this lot shouldnt come to much money.
have a look at the pics on the 1st page of the topic,
all i did was to ,
fit one lug with cable attatched to drivers side (by shock absorber)see pics,route the cable back to the battery and connect it to the earth(neautral)terminal of the battery.
fit the second cable to the left of the engine on a pipwork bracket,see pics,and route it back to battery,
fit the third cable to the right of the engine (nearest battery).
i used the bracket that hold the dipstick in place,and again route back to battery terminal.
make sure all terminals are secure and tight.
leave a little slack of cable when fitting the cable around the engine bay to allow for engine movement(it dosnt move much though).
and thats it.
if you are still struggling i can e mail you step by step pics should you need them,but its a fairly basic job.
happy wiring,,,,,roy
things you need,
1,go to your nerest electrical wholesaler,newey eyre,city electrical factors,lockwell,etc,
ask to buy a roll of 6mm single heat resistant cable(choose colour,black,red,blue,yellow,whatever)(10mm would be better but it starts to stand out in the engine bay) or if you can ask if they can sell you about 20 meters(to be on the safe side) of the stuff.
the cable is of a slightly flexible feel and has 40 odd very thin copper wires in it to make the 6mm radius,(see pic back in 1st page of this topic).
or alternativly goto halfords or any car sterio centre and buy some there.as it can be used by the bass junkies out there to supply their amp,etc..
2,whilst at one of these shops buy approx 6 crimps,(lugs)with a 8mm hole in them (see pic)but make sure they fit snugly onto the cable when the end has been stripped off(the guys at the shop should be able to help you here).
3,you need a crimping tool to "crimp" the lugs onto the cable(goto b&q or focus etc and get a cheap one)
and thats all you need,unless you plan to fit more earths to your engine/body work(the more the better i suppose).
this lot shouldnt come to much money.
have a look at the pics on the 1st page of the topic,
all i did was to ,
fit one lug with cable attatched to drivers side (by shock absorber)see pics,route the cable back to the battery and connect it to the earth(neautral)terminal of the battery.
fit the second cable to the left of the engine on a pipwork bracket,see pics,and route it back to battery,
fit the third cable to the right of the engine (nearest battery).
i used the bracket that hold the dipstick in place,and again route back to battery terminal.
make sure all terminals are secure and tight.
leave a little slack of cable when fitting the cable around the engine bay to allow for engine movement(it dosnt move much though).
and thats it.
if you are still struggling i can e mail you step by step pics should you need them,but its a fairly basic job.
happy wiring,,,,,roy
05 November 2002, 01:08 PM
#46
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok...I've had a look in my car & have 2 probs.
1st - the lug on the drivers side shock absorber - my Impreza's different to the picture & I only have one screw going in where in the pic there were 2. Are these screws or bolts - is there a nut at the other side?
Would I be ok unscrewing that totally to put the lug on?
2nd - Where you've got the lug on the bracket (not the dipstick one), I can't get to that without taking my induction kit off! So I don't really want to tackle that!
Would it be worth just doing two earths or is there another place that a third could go that's quite easy to get to/do?
The other thing was that the length of the thread on the terminal on the battery where the lugs go is quite short - not sure if the lugs and the nut will all go on.
How would I get a new/longer one of them if I needed it?
Cheers & thanks - Darren
1st - the lug on the drivers side shock absorber - my Impreza's different to the picture & I only have one screw going in where in the pic there were 2. Are these screws or bolts - is there a nut at the other side?
Would I be ok unscrewing that totally to put the lug on?
2nd - Where you've got the lug on the bracket (not the dipstick one), I can't get to that without taking my induction kit off! So I don't really want to tackle that!
Would it be worth just doing two earths or is there another place that a third could go that's quite easy to get to/do?
The other thing was that the length of the thread on the terminal on the battery where the lugs go is quite short - not sure if the lugs and the nut will all go on.
How would I get a new/longer one of them if I needed it?
Cheers & thanks - Darren
05 November 2002, 06:57 PM
#47
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: walsall,west midlands
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
darren,
yes my engine bay is bound to be different to yours as my car is a legacy twin turbo,but the general layout is the same.
the reason i took a cable to the drivers side shocker was purely to make sure of getting a good earth to that part of the engine bay.
is there any place esle where you can pic up a place to put the lug apart from the top shocker mount???further towards the front of the wing perhaps??
it is not neccesary to earth from this area but remember the more earths the better,the hks kit has 7 earthing points!!
regarding the one behind your induction kit,,
if you think logicaly,the spark plugs are on the sides of the engine,so the shortest route to earth from the spark plug area is going to be better,i managed to get a long reach extension down to this particular bolt,it was a little tricky,but i managed.
i must be honest i havent looked for any other possible areas to bolt this lug onto,as it was 2am in the morning when i was on nights when i did it,i could only see this bolt with the torch that seemed good enough to do the job.
so anywhere really on the engine is good,as long as its in a few places as the engine is in basicly 4 parts,left head,right head,crank case,gear box.and gaskets are between these ,gaskets dont conduct electricity,its a case of the bolts holding everything together that conduct the earth between them.
as for the battery terminal,my bolt on the clamp was long enough ,but surly its a case of just replacing this bolt for a longer one if yours is too short.
let me know how you get on,i would even do the wiring for ya if you lived close enough to me,(unless you fancy a day out).
best of luck roy...
yes my engine bay is bound to be different to yours as my car is a legacy twin turbo,but the general layout is the same.
the reason i took a cable to the drivers side shocker was purely to make sure of getting a good earth to that part of the engine bay.
is there any place esle where you can pic up a place to put the lug apart from the top shocker mount???further towards the front of the wing perhaps??
it is not neccesary to earth from this area but remember the more earths the better,the hks kit has 7 earthing points!!
regarding the one behind your induction kit,,
if you think logicaly,the spark plugs are on the sides of the engine,so the shortest route to earth from the spark plug area is going to be better,i managed to get a long reach extension down to this particular bolt,it was a little tricky,but i managed.
i must be honest i havent looked for any other possible areas to bolt this lug onto,as it was 2am in the morning when i was on nights when i did it,i could only see this bolt with the torch that seemed good enough to do the job.
so anywhere really on the engine is good,as long as its in a few places as the engine is in basicly 4 parts,left head,right head,crank case,gear box.and gaskets are between these ,gaskets dont conduct electricity,its a case of the bolts holding everything together that conduct the earth between them.
as for the battery terminal,my bolt on the clamp was long enough ,but surly its a case of just replacing this bolt for a longer one if yours is too short.
let me know how you get on,i would even do the wiring for ya if you lived close enough to me,(unless you fancy a day out).
best of luck roy...
05 November 2002, 08:16 PM
#48
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roy,
Thanks for that.
Not sure about other places to put lugs.
Maybe if I emailed you a pic of the engine it might help?
..the one behind the induction kit - looked at your pictures again & you seem to have more room to get in to your engine...the bolts not quite in the same place neither - hmmn...not sure on this - can have a go but I really don't wanna mess with the induction kit.
..longer bolt for battery..yes, I think I'll need to get one of them.
I really appreciate your offer for doing the wiring - walsall - not exactly sure where that is (nr Birmingham?) but a bit too far for me from York ...loads of work on at the moment so don't have much free time, which is a pain in the a*@e. Thx for the offer, though.
If you think me sending a pic would be useful in possibly identifying other places for the lugs, then I'll happily e-mail that (any advice would help me!).
It'll probably be a couple of days before I get around to doing the actual job, though!
Thanks for your help - cheers - Darren
Thanks for that.
Not sure about other places to put lugs.
Maybe if I emailed you a pic of the engine it might help?
..the one behind the induction kit - looked at your pictures again & you seem to have more room to get in to your engine...the bolts not quite in the same place neither - hmmn...not sure on this - can have a go but I really don't wanna mess with the induction kit.
..longer bolt for battery..yes, I think I'll need to get one of them.
I really appreciate your offer for doing the wiring - walsall - not exactly sure where that is (nr Birmingham?) but a bit too far for me from York ...loads of work on at the moment so don't have much free time, which is a pain in the a*@e. Thx for the offer, though.
If you think me sending a pic would be useful in possibly identifying other places for the lugs, then I'll happily e-mail that (any advice would help me!).
It'll probably be a couple of days before I get around to doing the actual job, though!
Thanks for your help - cheers - Darren
05 November 2002, 09:16 PM
#50
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: walsall,west midlands
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
darren,,
hehehehehe
sorry,have to laugh,
yes york is a long way away,,a very long way,its a shame you where not closer,but still.
yup send me some pics of your engine,the more the better.
i will add pointers to the pics and send them back to you as to where to fit the cables.
as for the cable,,,
6mm cable is what i used for my wiring,but bigger cable is better(less resistance).
8 mm cable is more preferable but its up to you,(the bigger the uglier and the more it stands out)
dont forget ,idealy get the multistranded type of cable(30-40 small strands of wire wound together to make the cable size) as its more flexible,and check its heat resistant(ask at the shop).
get those pics to me and we will go from there.
roy
hehehehehe
sorry,have to laugh,
yes york is a long way away,,a very long way,its a shame you where not closer,but still.
yup send me some pics of your engine,the more the better.
i will add pointers to the pics and send them back to you as to where to fit the cables.
as for the cable,,,
6mm cable is what i used for my wiring,but bigger cable is better(less resistance).
8 mm cable is more preferable but its up to you,(the bigger the uglier and the more it stands out)
dont forget ,idealy get the multistranded type of cable(30-40 small strands of wire wound together to make the cable size) as its more flexible,and check its heat resistant(ask at the shop).
get those pics to me and we will go from there.
roy
05 November 2002, 10:09 PM
#51
Scooby Regular
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mmmmm - well for those of you that pay attention my car has had an intermittent misfire, and not run that well for a few months now. Cleaned injectors, changed plugs...
...did it last night and I noticed (not done it in the dark before) that all the lights went off, dials the lot - nae power!!!
It now makes me think that earth strap could be fatigued/corroded!
Will try this out
Trout
...did it last night and I noticed (not done it in the dark before) that all the lights went off, dials the lot - nae power!!!
It now makes me think that earth strap could be fatigued/corroded!
Will try this out
Trout
07 November 2002, 09:54 AM
#54
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trout,
I was having a cold start missfire, well it was running on three I think.. hasn't occurred since doing the earthing!
Are you running the original coil packs on your STi 1?
My coil packs are just about hanging on.. 110k miles and 7years old... got some new bosch coils on order to replace them with.
Saw the car in Fast Car.. looking good.. I don;t think I could drive it though I would get nicked as soon as I started it..
it is a bit bright
JGM
I was having a cold start missfire, well it was running on three I think.. hasn't occurred since doing the earthing!
Are you running the original coil packs on your STi 1?
My coil packs are just about hanging on.. 110k miles and 7years old... got some new bosch coils on order to replace them with.
Saw the car in Fast Car.. looking good.. I don;t think I could drive it though I would get nicked as soon as I started it..
it is a bit bright
JGM
07 November 2002, 10:19 AM
#57
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think this is the site you mentioned Roy -
{URL}http://www.lumine.net/subaru/legacyb4/tuning/[/URL] The site covers a 5 & point earthing solution.
I have done this as well - 7 point & found firstly the stereo to be clearer & also idle, start up & acceleration not as 'lumpy' or erratic. My cars a MY95 so I suppose the earthing may help as cars get older.
Worthwhile for the cost & elbow grease. - £130 for a kit is a lot.
Regards
Johny.
07 November 2002, 10:23 AM
#58
Scooby Regular
![K9VYN [Kevin W]'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23445a7e' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>K</text></svg>)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.lumine.net/subaru/legacyb4/tuning
Presumably this will have gains in economy as well as performance?
Kev
Presumably this will have gains in economy as well as performance?
Kev
07 November 2002, 10:30 AM
#59
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have noticed the Mile per tank is slightly better although not fully sure yet as I have done about four tanks but three of those were whilst towing a trailer or a trailer and a car so the petrol disappeared even more quickly than normal..
I have done one tank without towing but I have been enjoying the new exhaust and the extra low down power so the MPG was not the best for a tank but better than when I normally blast around..
So I think it has improved economy yes.. someone else earlier in the thread said theirs got worse but I think that must be a one off..
I can confirm whether it is better on Monday as I do nearly 2 tanks in a weekend.. I need to take out some shares in Optimax.
JGM
I have done one tank without towing but I have been enjoying the new exhaust and the extra low down power so the MPG was not the best for a tank but better than when I normally blast around..
So I think it has improved economy yes.. someone else earlier in the thread said theirs got worse but I think that must be a one off..
I can confirm whether it is better on Monday as I do nearly 2 tanks in a weekend.. I need to take out some shares in Optimax.
JGM
07 November 2002, 08:09 PM
#60
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JGM2,
Cheers for the response - Let me know how you go! I did a five point earthing this evening and am almost out of gas. I will fill up with optimax + inj. cleaner and octane boost after work tomorrow (going to Enfield and back tomorrow night) - I'll see how it fares on a motorway journey!
Thanks,
Kev
Cheers for the response - Let me know how you go! I did a five point earthing this evening and am almost out of gas. I will fill up with optimax + inj. cleaner and octane boost after work tomorrow (going to Enfield and back tomorrow night) - I'll see how it fares on a motorway journey!
Thanks,
Kev