Big end has "gone"
28 June 2003, 06:52 PM
#61
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API David and Bob Rawle.
You guys certainly seem to know your onions (way too complicated for my feeble brain though!).
As I stated further up the thread, my Sti is bog standard, never been raced on a track (by me) and generally does not get driven above 90mph (proper 90mph as measured on the Road Angel ie well below the 112mph Japan limit). It seems to me that it is a pretty poor show if Sti are unable to build the car/engine so that it can survive reasonable "abuse" ie regular driving that you would expect from a car that has 276BHP and 260ft of torque?
If I had bought the car fron new (£30k list price?) then I would be well PO'd that the engine has gone at just 48k miles and 3.5 years after registration (needless to say I am pretty PO'd about it anyway!).
To summarize then it seems that a mixture of below 100RON fuel and possibly poor oil (magnatec) plus a hot day may have resulted in my problem but in any event the fact that it went means that it would probably have happened at some point anyway (next day, next week, next month etc.).
Yours, p*ssed off,
John.
You guys certainly seem to know your onions (way too complicated for my feeble brain though!).
As I stated further up the thread, my Sti is bog standard, never been raced on a track (by me) and generally does not get driven above 90mph (proper 90mph as measured on the Road Angel ie well below the 112mph Japan limit). It seems to me that it is a pretty poor show if Sti are unable to build the car/engine so that it can survive reasonable "abuse" ie regular driving that you would expect from a car that has 276BHP and 260ft of torque?
If I had bought the car fron new (£30k list price?) then I would be well PO'd that the engine has gone at just 48k miles and 3.5 years after registration (needless to say I am pretty PO'd about it anyway!).
To summarize then it seems that a mixture of below 100RON fuel and possibly poor oil (magnatec) plus a hot day may have resulted in my problem but in any event the fact that it went means that it would probably have happened at some point anyway (next day, next week, next month etc.).
Yours, p*ssed off,
John.
28 June 2003, 07:06 PM
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Just thought i would add my experiences on here!
Had my P1 serviced at a local dealer about 6 weeks ago, it was in for minor service. I have only owned the car for about 7 months now and it was serviced by the supplying dealer. Anyway, after driving off the dealers forecourt at 4pm i was back there by 4:30 with a rather nasty rattling noise coming from the engine bay!! I hadnt even managed to get the car out of 3rd gear as i was slowly making my way home through the start of the rush hour traffic. Dealer said straight away, big end problems.
They took the car off me there and then and i thankfully had it repaired under warranty.
The dealer was really helpful and kept me informed all along, in the end i had all of no.4 piston replaced, new crankshaft, oil pump and maf meter. Dealer seems to think that the maf sensor and the oil pump was the problem as there was oil starvation to no.4.
This isnt the first time this has happened either, i had the same problem with my RB5 WRSport last year, exctly the same problem, although it was some while after a service!!
Both my scoobs have been pretty much standard, always ran in my ownership on OPtimax and have never been on a track. Guess i have been unlucky!!!
Laters
Mikey
Had my P1 serviced at a local dealer about 6 weeks ago, it was in for minor service. I have only owned the car for about 7 months now and it was serviced by the supplying dealer. Anyway, after driving off the dealers forecourt at 4pm i was back there by 4:30 with a rather nasty rattling noise coming from the engine bay!! I hadnt even managed to get the car out of 3rd gear as i was slowly making my way home through the start of the rush hour traffic. Dealer said straight away, big end problems.
They took the car off me there and then and i thankfully had it repaired under warranty.
The dealer was really helpful and kept me informed all along, in the end i had all of no.4 piston replaced, new crankshaft, oil pump and maf meter. Dealer seems to think that the maf sensor and the oil pump was the problem as there was oil starvation to no.4.
This isnt the first time this has happened either, i had the same problem with my RB5 WRSport last year, exctly the same problem, although it was some while after a service!!
Both my scoobs have been pretty much standard, always ran in my ownership on OPtimax and have never been on a track. Guess i have been unlucky!!!
Laters
Mikey
28 June 2003, 08:12 PM
#63
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Mikey, Unusual for a P1 to suffer from 'the problem' We've only rebuilt one P1 engine, and I supplied a P1 engine to Richard Coasby in Limassol a week or so ago, but his circunstances over fuel quality and temperature are way different to Uk Unusual also, in so far as they are specifically set to run on Uk fuel. So sort of rules out det. Except that, if the manifold temps and I/c temp are high then poor fuel atomisation sets in and det occurs no matter what type of fuel and ignition etc.
Curious again that it happens so soon after a service, which sort of bears out my theory about spinning up with lack of lubrication once too often.
At least I.M. took it on the chin.
I don't suppose we'll ever get to the bottom of it, buy we can be better prepared to prolong the time before it does happen.
David
Curious again that it happens so soon after a service, which sort of bears out my theory about spinning up with lack of lubrication once too often.
At least I.M. took it on the chin.
I don't suppose we'll ever get to the bottom of it, buy we can be better prepared to prolong the time before it does happen.
David
28 June 2003, 08:17 PM
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Scoobynutta555, just a point for you, As far as I know it would be suicidal to dispose of a car either through the auctions, or traded in with the cat off and the delimits in place in Japan,
Japanese society is peculiar in that what they don't know about gets completely ignored as if it would/could never happen, But once they find out it is extremely serious.
We've never imported a car with a decat pipe in place or a delimiter on, but believe me the sales of both in Japan are off the scale
David
Japanese society is peculiar in that what they don't know about gets completely ignored as if it would/could never happen, But once they find out it is extremely serious.
We've never imported a car with a decat pipe in place or a delimiter on, but believe me the sales of both in Japan are off the scale
David
28 June 2003, 10:14 PM
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API David, cheers for your response to the message. It would seem that Subaru Uk were concerned about P1 big end problems because the dealer i went to said that only the previous week they had recieved a letter that was sent to all dealers in the Uk suggesting that if a P1 came in with No.2 big end problems, they wanted to be informed as they then would themselves take a look!
My dealer told me that another local dealer had 2 P1s in with the same problem to No.2 and Subaru Uk were going there to take a look and they may well hve popped in to see mine aswell, even though it was No.4. In the end they never looked at mine and the warranty went through without any problems!
Bit concerning though!
Laters
Mikey
My dealer told me that another local dealer had 2 P1s in with the same problem to No.2 and Subaru Uk were going there to take a look and they may well hve popped in to see mine aswell, even though it was No.4. In the end they never looked at mine and the warranty went through without any problems!
Bit concerning though!
Laters
Mikey
29 June 2003, 12:34 AM
#66
The P1 engine is absolutely identical to the Sti5, also the ecu for the P1 contains exactly the same maps as an STi5, knock correction sensitivity is greater though. The point I would make is this, the point in time that you "hear" the big end has gone is not the point in time that the damage occured, most big ends "fail" on light load, not really but thats the first time its noticed, in reality the damage was caused prior to that moment so think back to what conditions (and when) you had subjected the car to BEFORE the actual point in time that you first heard the problem. I know that several people have reported problems as they left a motorway for example ... I also know of an instance when a car was serviced, collected, driven to pick up a family member and the big ends "went" when driving in slow traffic within a built up area, not likely is it but, that could well have been the first time the problem was noticed and resulted from damage already done.
To comment on the "poor design", any engine will suffer if abused, a Subaru engine (least JDM) is NOT inherently a poor design, it has been designed to work under a set of conditions ie 100 ron fuel minimum, high torque (relatively) and high revs under conditions of a speed limited engine load, if you step outside those boundary's without due precaution then don't be suprised when a problem occurs. UK engines fail as well, we are !"allowed" to use 95 ron by Subaru but up the state of tune and you should up the fuel quality to go with it. My own engine (Sti5)is not std being based on an STi7 block running with uprated rods, pistons, injectors, fuel pump, regulator, garrett turbo, headers etc etc, its covered 23000 miles running 2 bar boost to 6k and 1.8 bar to 8k, no problems at all but, it has been built to do that and I do take my own advice when it comes to servicing procedure.
Thommo Slick 50 or other additives should never be used in a Turbo engine, it can't stand the temperatures involved.
Since big end no's 2 and 3 are fed from the same main bearing then you would expect a high incidence of each failing with the others not, not true, in practice any or all could fail. For phase 2 engines cylinder no 1 actually runs leanest, then three then two and four, a phase 1 has cylinder 2 the leanest, then 1 and 3 then 4 is richest. Least that is how I view it.
With regard to remapping being a part of the solution to this, its not and never will be, yes a remap will ensure that an engine should not det due to incorrect fueling or timing but that will never stop a bearing being run due to oil film breakdown.
Complex subject and no straightforward answers that I know of.
cheers
Bob
To comment on the "poor design", any engine will suffer if abused, a Subaru engine (least JDM) is NOT inherently a poor design, it has been designed to work under a set of conditions ie 100 ron fuel minimum, high torque (relatively) and high revs under conditions of a speed limited engine load, if you step outside those boundary's without due precaution then don't be suprised when a problem occurs. UK engines fail as well, we are !"allowed" to use 95 ron by Subaru but up the state of tune and you should up the fuel quality to go with it. My own engine (Sti5)is not std being based on an STi7 block running with uprated rods, pistons, injectors, fuel pump, regulator, garrett turbo, headers etc etc, its covered 23000 miles running 2 bar boost to 6k and 1.8 bar to 8k, no problems at all but, it has been built to do that and I do take my own advice when it comes to servicing procedure.
Thommo Slick 50 or other additives should never be used in a Turbo engine, it can't stand the temperatures involved.
Since big end no's 2 and 3 are fed from the same main bearing then you would expect a high incidence of each failing with the others not, not true, in practice any or all could fail. For phase 2 engines cylinder no 1 actually runs leanest, then three then two and four, a phase 1 has cylinder 2 the leanest, then 1 and 3 then 4 is richest. Least that is how I view it.
With regard to remapping being a part of the solution to this, its not and never will be, yes a remap will ensure that an engine should not det due to incorrect fueling or timing but that will never stop a bearing being run due to oil film breakdown.
Complex subject and no straightforward answers that I know of.
cheers
Bob
29 June 2003, 01:20 AM
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Evening all... Interesting thread as always 
Question for Dave and Bob - having read the whole thread and having some experience with this anomaly, do either of you believe there is a single reason these engines fail?
Is it a design flaw?
Are these engines not robust enough to run high speeds (above 112mph) safely at all?
If suitable oil is used and correct mapping is run, why do these engines fail
Should they run on semi-synth for up to 7k did I read?
Question for Dave and Bob - having read the whole thread and having some experience with this anomaly, do either of you believe there is a single reason these engines fail?
Is it a design flaw?
Are these engines not robust enough to run high speeds (above 112mph) safely at all?
If suitable oil is used and correct mapping is run, why do these engines fail
Should they run on semi-synth for up to 7k did I read?
29 June 2003, 03:17 AM
#68
Bob, please contact me asap offline, its important.
I have been running my STi5 RA for 25,000 miles now (50,000 on the clock). I run this car at 150MPH regularly at the nurburgring, it hits this speed 3 times a lap, i am on full throttle from 100MPH for 20 seconds at two points to reach this speed, another point for 35 seconds taking it to the 155MPH top speed. I do this aprox 10 times a day when i am there, Thats 130 miles absolutely flat out a day, most of it above 100MPH (13 mile lap followed by time to cool down properly between runs), i usually go for 2-3 days a trip. i think this pretty well proves this engine isnt inherantly fragile or of poor design. (shift point of 7500rpm used)
The spec of my car is standard engine, standard STi air filter, still has the cats in the exhaust, Spec C baffled and uprated fuel pump to prevent fuel surge, never run the tank less than 1/4 full on track. Castrol RS 10/60 oil, OEM oil filter.
My own thoughts on this are to use the best spec oils i can, change it after each track event or 3500 miles. Change the spark plugs every 10,000 miles as OB tends to cause deposit buildup on the electrodes. The STi5 (and the P1 map) is designed for 100RON, i use Optimax or SUL plus 75ml of NF octane booster per 50Litres. I make sure the IC water spray is operating on track, when it runs out i stop running hard. In other words i dont rag the car to the point that heat soak becomes an issue. (amazingly the IC spray lasts exactly 1 lap of the nurburgring)
The fuel tank design in the Impreza is not brilliant, it isnt designed for sustained full throttle driving when you let the levels drop to the point you are relying on the transfer system from the non pump chamber (passenger side), thats why i keep the fuel tank above 1/4 on track.
It's way too easy to get fuel surge with this car, its way too easy to keep it nailed mid corner not knowing you are getting fuel surge (therefore leaning out). Thats why i invested in a Spec C fuel pump assembly, to reduce that posibility. Best bet if you plan driving hard is to keep the tank level above 1/4.
My own experience with oils has left me to only use two types, Motul 300V competition 15/50 and Castrol RS 10/60. The others are not up to the job of protecting a turbocharged 300BHP engine driven hard IMHO. The heat generated in the turbo housing bearing is substantial and burns lesser oils.
The weak points on this car are the MAF and fuel supply IMHO, i protect the MAF by using a genuine STi air filter (good for at least 280BHP in the standard housing retaining the resonator), oiled filters can contaminate the hot film spec MAF used on the MY99/00/01 classic impreza.
Using a vent to atmosphere BOV can cause problems too, as this leaves the engine running rich which can cause bore wash and oil contamination/dilution issues.
You wont have seen many P1 engine failures at your business as they would have been covered under waranty, it doesnt mean they havent occured, because they have. P1 on 95RON scares the hell out of me, i know some people do drive with this setup.
I dont think i have been lucky in my engine holding together, i think its down to sensible maintanance and setup for the conditions i use the car in. Also i drive pretty gently on the road, so the only time the car gets driven hard is on track where i am well setup to keep on top of it and not tempted to keep the boot in when i know i really shouldnt. I warm it up properly, cool it down properly, keep it fed with the good stuff and dont play with the setup, if it gets modified in any way it will be done in a thorough way. I consider changing the air filter spec as modifying the engine, it has knock on effects.
I have been running my STi5 RA for 25,000 miles now (50,000 on the clock). I run this car at 150MPH regularly at the nurburgring, it hits this speed 3 times a lap, i am on full throttle from 100MPH for 20 seconds at two points to reach this speed, another point for 35 seconds taking it to the 155MPH top speed. I do this aprox 10 times a day when i am there, Thats 130 miles absolutely flat out a day, most of it above 100MPH (13 mile lap followed by time to cool down properly between runs), i usually go for 2-3 days a trip. i think this pretty well proves this engine isnt inherantly fragile or of poor design. (shift point of 7500rpm used)
The spec of my car is standard engine, standard STi air filter, still has the cats in the exhaust, Spec C baffled and uprated fuel pump to prevent fuel surge, never run the tank less than 1/4 full on track. Castrol RS 10/60 oil, OEM oil filter.
My own thoughts on this are to use the best spec oils i can, change it after each track event or 3500 miles. Change the spark plugs every 10,000 miles as OB tends to cause deposit buildup on the electrodes. The STi5 (and the P1 map) is designed for 100RON, i use Optimax or SUL plus 75ml of NF octane booster per 50Litres. I make sure the IC water spray is operating on track, when it runs out i stop running hard. In other words i dont rag the car to the point that heat soak becomes an issue. (amazingly the IC spray lasts exactly 1 lap of the nurburgring)
The fuel tank design in the Impreza is not brilliant, it isnt designed for sustained full throttle driving when you let the levels drop to the point you are relying on the transfer system from the non pump chamber (passenger side), thats why i keep the fuel tank above 1/4 on track.
It's way too easy to get fuel surge with this car, its way too easy to keep it nailed mid corner not knowing you are getting fuel surge (therefore leaning out). Thats why i invested in a Spec C fuel pump assembly, to reduce that posibility. Best bet if you plan driving hard is to keep the tank level above 1/4.
My own experience with oils has left me to only use two types, Motul 300V competition 15/50 and Castrol RS 10/60. The others are not up to the job of protecting a turbocharged 300BHP engine driven hard IMHO. The heat generated in the turbo housing bearing is substantial and burns lesser oils.
The weak points on this car are the MAF and fuel supply IMHO, i protect the MAF by using a genuine STi air filter (good for at least 280BHP in the standard housing retaining the resonator), oiled filters can contaminate the hot film spec MAF used on the MY99/00/01 classic impreza.
Using a vent to atmosphere BOV can cause problems too, as this leaves the engine running rich which can cause bore wash and oil contamination/dilution issues.
You wont have seen many P1 engine failures at your business as they would have been covered under waranty, it doesnt mean they havent occured, because they have. P1 on 95RON scares the hell out of me, i know some people do drive with this setup.
I dont think i have been lucky in my engine holding together, i think its down to sensible maintanance and setup for the conditions i use the car in. Also i drive pretty gently on the road, so the only time the car gets driven hard is on track where i am well setup to keep on top of it and not tempted to keep the boot in when i know i really shouldnt. I warm it up properly, cool it down properly, keep it fed with the good stuff and dont play with the setup, if it gets modified in any way it will be done in a thorough way. I consider changing the air filter spec as modifying the engine, it has knock on effects.
29 June 2003, 10:51 AM
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The only way to come to any conclusion on this subject is to do a
do a survey.a thread solely to bigend damage etc(just damage report)
i.e
what oil
hot day
speed
how soon after service
fuel
type of car
etc etc etc
Now if this was to happen we would all benefit from this.We could have another thread solely to the report of the survey.i would love to know the average daily bangs .So someone sort it out its the only way.
The title Dave and Bobs big bang survey? anything other than the given data should be removed what do you think.
do a survey.a thread solely to bigend damage etc(just damage report)
i.e
what oil
hot day
speed
how soon after service
fuel
type of car
etc etc etc
Now if this was to happen we would all benefit from this.We could have another thread solely to the report of the survey.i would love to know the average daily bangs .So someone sort it out its the only way.
The title Dave and Bobs big bang survey? anything other than the given data should be removed what do you think.
29 June 2003, 11:19 AM
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' Dave & Bob's big bang survey' sounds like a title for a **** movie to me. But hey!, it's a free world we live in.
David
David
29 June 2003, 11:27 AM
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Bob. I'm sure I've read somewhere that the P1 map has been adjusted for 97 Ron fuel. Am I wrong? You would know better than me as we concentrate on the rotating metallic bits. As I know it to be the power of a P1 is 265 against JDM 276 which sort of leads to the confusion [ on my part] over fuel and map. Otherwise I concur totally, here is NO difference between P1 and STiV internals
l'll have another look in the Subaru book ' You and your Subaru' or whatever it's called because that's where I think I read it. Also various other odd bods telling me. If the book is wrong then it could be dangerous, but then again it may be me. My book is at the office so I can't check today. Anybody got one handy??
David
l'll have another look in the Subaru book ' You and your Subaru' or whatever it's called because that's where I think I read it. Also various other odd bods telling me. If the book is wrong then it could be dangerous, but then again it may be me. My book is at the office so I can't check today. Anybody got one handy??
David
29 June 2003, 11:59 AM
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I've still running in my Sti5 V-Lim - just had the 1000 mile oil change. It went bang at 27k, slowing down for a motorway roundabout. Usual stuff, standard/always serviced/driven sensuibly/no track days.
Its been rebuilt by Barretts Motorsport so i'm confident it'll last this time! Phil at barretts has a constant stream of them coming thru for rebuilds - another Sti(4?) was being collected after its rebuild on the day i went for the oil change.
I won't comment any further yet on Phils diagnosis - the inevitable Warranty Holdings dispute is nearing its conclusion. they're as slippery as a slippery thing so i'll post at a later date!
I think what it needs for good health in the future is occassional "Eiffel Mountains Spring Air" Seems to work for John!
Its been rebuilt by Barretts Motorsport so i'm confident it'll last this time! Phil at barretts has a constant stream of them coming thru for rebuilds - another Sti(4?) was being collected after its rebuild on the day i went for the oil change.
I won't comment any further yet on Phils diagnosis - the inevitable Warranty Holdings dispute is nearing its conclusion. they're as slippery as a slippery thing so i'll post at a later date!
I think what it needs for good health in the future is occassional "Eiffel Mountains Spring Air" Seems to work for John!
29 June 2003, 09:59 PM
#74
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Bob
(Been away for a day).
Now, the synthetic v's semi synthetic argument. I personally for normal road use would be more than happy to run Semi Synthetic in my car, and in fact I do (I think the Scooby dealer uses Shell).
Now, given increased states of tune, I would move to fully synthetic, and if I was running a higher revving import I would also run fully synthetic. Synthetics can as I said earlier run to higher levels of performance without breaking down, and will always outperform a semi synthetic or standard mineral oil if applied correctly.
I could bore you with with why but wont't (unless you specifically want me to).
APIDavid - No I don't work for an oil company. I'm an Engineer, I have just happened to specialise in lubrication and hydraulics.
(Been away for a day).
Now, the synthetic v's semi synthetic argument. I personally for normal road use would be more than happy to run Semi Synthetic in my car, and in fact I do (I think the Scooby dealer uses Shell).
Now, given increased states of tune, I would move to fully synthetic, and if I was running a higher revving import I would also run fully synthetic. Synthetics can as I said earlier run to higher levels of performance without breaking down, and will always outperform a semi synthetic or standard mineral oil if applied correctly.
I could bore you with with why but wont't (unless you specifically want me to).
APIDavid - No I don't work for an oil company. I'm an Engineer, I have just happened to specialise in lubrication and hydraulics.
29 June 2003, 10:49 PM
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David, agree with Bob. P1 and STi 5/6 maps are all the same apart from knock sensor sensitivity. Claimed power of the P1 is 276 BHP/280 PS. I think they are scary on 95 RON too.
30 June 2003, 12:58 PM
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some very good reading again with this subject which includes all the big boys when it comes to tech talk.It seems that you have more or less come to the conclusion that the oil filter has to be oe, the oil good quality, the correct fuel used all the time and when servicing the filter needs filling and the crank turned over by hand??? to get the pressure before starting up the car?? and so there is a supply of oil to the bearings.I think thats about right.I am due a service very soon so the question i should ask is wether the mechanic does actually do the oil filter thing and crank the car over before starting. am i right?? these threads do give good reading but ive got to admit that when it comes to service time i dread the thought of taking it to the dealer.
30 June 2003, 03:01 PM
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I doubt very much your typical mechanic would do this without asking him. Even Scoob dealers wouldn't. You would have to ask them to do this and then you still wouldn't be sure unless you stayed and watched.
Now if you were to go to BRD, Lateral performance, Scoobysport, PE, or to any of the other performance shops who post on here and know the story, I'm sure they would perform the correct oil change routine.
Cheers,
George.
Now if you were to go to BRD, Lateral performance, Scoobysport, PE, or to any of the other performance shops who post on here and know the story, I'm sure they would perform the correct oil change routine.
Cheers,
George.
30 June 2003, 05:55 PM
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does any one know if revolution in gateshead do this type of service to the car as my car will be going there for a service soon.Is it an easy job to crank the car over by hand or a right pain?
30 June 2003, 06:11 PM
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They don't do it by hand. They disconnect the crank sensor and then use the ignition switch with the key to turn the motor over till the oil light goes out. With the crank sensor disconnected, the car will not start. Once the oil light goes out, the crank sensor is connected again and the car can then be started.
Cheers,
George.
Cheers,
George.
30 June 2003, 07:55 PM
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I used Shell Helix (good semi) once (forgot to take my Motul to the service - oops 
). The car drove like pants - felt like the engine was throwing twice the weight around (all 'sticky'), and the car absolutely didn't want to rev past around 6k - felt like I'd put the standard block-o-matic exhaust back on again. Also, my oil-pressure warning light - set to 2 bar - kept coming on at idle. Didn't like that much.
I changed back to Motul as soon as I could (a couple of weeks later) and the difference was marked. Also, idle was back up at around 2.8 bar again
Now, I realise this is all non-technical stuff (buttometer mixed with 'feelings', except the blinky low pressure light), but I'm prety sure that they show something? Aside from the relatively low pressure, the observations are purely performance related (ie I'd prefer a car that runs better) but surely a smooth-running engine is a happy engine? 
And I don't want this thread to go off, err, thread, so sorry for the interruption
). The car drove like pants - felt like the engine was throwing twice the weight around (all 'sticky'), and the car absolutely didn't want to rev past around 6k - felt like I'd put the standard block-o-matic exhaust back on again. Also, my oil-pressure warning light - set to 2 bar - kept coming on at idle. Didn't like that much.I changed back to Motul as soon as I could (a couple of weeks later) and the difference was marked. Also, idle was back up at around 2.8 bar again
Now, I realise this is all non-technical stuff (buttometer mixed with 'feelings', except the blinky low pressure light), but I'm prety sure that they show something? Aside from the relatively low pressure, the observations are purely performance related (ie I'd prefer a car that runs better
) but surely a smooth-running engine is a happy engine? And I don't want this thread to go off, err, thread
, so sorry for the interruption
30 June 2003, 08:23 PM
#83
Scratch, I agree with you that for normal road use semi-synth is fine (if its the right quality) but Subaru themselves recommend one grade for normal use but a heavier grade rating for "heavy" use. BUT, I would/have always swap a turbo engine onto full synthetic after 7-8k miles as a matter of course, thats my preference and it works for me.
FWIW I ran my STi2 Wagon on Shell Helix Semi then full synth for almost 60k miles of enthusiastic driving with no adverse affects, I did change every 3500 and followed the change procedure mentioned.
FWIW I ran my STi2 Wagon on Shell Helix Semi then full synth for almost 60k miles of enthusiastic driving with no adverse affects, I did change every 3500 and followed the change procedure mentioned.
30 June 2003, 08:39 PM
#84
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BIG END FAILURE ALSO!!!
I have a P1 (40k miles) and have just had a minor service on Friday and i collected the car and drove back quite slowly as i didnt have much petrol. On the saturday I drove 30 miles and downshifted from 5th to 4th (revving a little) towards a roundabout and then the big end went making a very loud rattle!!!!
This happended the DAY AFTER i had my car serviced!
It is still under warranty, so i am taking the car to the garage tomorrow.
Reading these posts it it VERY likely an already worn big end is killed when the oil is drained away and dry started after a service.
I will INSIST that the garage afterwards is fully aware of this and at least fills the oil filter before turning over etc.
For info .. I only ever use Optimax - fully synthetic oil that the subaru garage uses.
I have a P1 (40k miles) and have just had a minor service on Friday and i collected the car and drove back quite slowly as i didnt have much petrol. On the saturday I drove 30 miles and downshifted from 5th to 4th (revving a little) towards a roundabout and then the big end went making a very loud rattle!!!!
This happended the DAY AFTER i had my car serviced!
It is still under warranty, so i am taking the car to the garage tomorrow.
Reading these posts it it VERY likely an already worn big end is killed when the oil is drained away and dry started after a service.
I will INSIST that the garage afterwards is fully aware of this and at least fills the oil filter before turning over etc.
For info .. I only ever use Optimax - fully synthetic oil that the subaru garage uses.
30 June 2003, 10:20 PM
#86
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Yes I'm yet another big-end victim...
..47k WRX MY97 only had the car for a few months...API have just rebuilt it
It's obvious the engine is very.... shall we say sensitive to the way it's fueled etc and this thread has given me and I don't doubt many others some good advice.
My choices when I bought my scoob were between an Evo...Shhhh! or a skyline I read lots of reports...as you do and Liked what I heard about the "toughness" of the Subaru (plus 4-doors)
Can anyone shed any light on whether these problems arise with other 250-300 bhp Imports ie; Nissan or Mitzi.??????????
..47k WRX MY97 only had the car for a few months...API have just rebuilt it
It's obvious the engine is very.... shall we say sensitive to the way it's fueled etc and this thread has given me and I don't doubt many others some good advice.
My choices when I bought my scoob were between an Evo...Shhhh! or a skyline I read lots of reports...as you do and Liked what I heard about the "toughness" of the Subaru (plus 4-doors)
Can anyone shed any light on whether these problems arise with other 250-300 bhp Imports ie; Nissan or Mitzi.??????????
01 July 2003, 12:35 AM
#87
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Guys.
One last post from me.
Various people have been in touch re my rebuild, has anyone got any BAD comments about any of them before I get in touch (no offense to the guys in question but you are all strangers to me!):
ScoobyClinic
API Engines (seems sound though from advice given above).
Xtreme Scoobies
Thames Valley Motorsport
John.
One last post from me.
Various people have been in touch re my rebuild, has anyone got any BAD comments about any of them before I get in touch (no offense to the guys in question but you are all strangers to me!):
ScoobyClinic
API Engines (seems sound though from advice given above).
Xtreme Scoobies
Thames Valley Motorsport
John.
01 July 2003, 12:17 PM
#88
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Dont know where I stand but???
My97 with 155000kms
Oil-5-50 or 0-40Mobil
Never prefilled oil filter ,or k.sensor,plugs
Motec48,fmi,water injection
550cc inj,500hp fuel pump
Modifird fuel rails
3" exh. heat wrapped,K&N filter
Oil change every 4000ks(myself)
Mapped on the dyno to run 98Ron
Never use octane addidives(as they can fool plugs)
24psi boost all the times
Gauges,only boost and shift light
Driven hard
Although few wrxs have fail here (Australia) this is not anywere the number in UK considering there more than 14000 of them around (OZ specs)
One thing that sticks out is, cars in UK(majority) are imports,meaning tuned to run Jap fuel(100 to 102Ron)and no amount of octane addidives will substitute for a commercial tested and proven 98, 100 or 102ron fuel.
Car need to be mapped properly for fuel available.
It is well known here that a standarnd WRX is bullet proof.
"The best trouble shooter is the one who knows nothing,and doesnt assume cause unless is proven".
It reminds me of the old days when mechanics will change 10 different parts to get it fixed and then have the guts to bill you for the lot.
Engine repairers will never find the root cause as this is their livehood.
My advise will be
ut the car on the dyno and road and check all parameters that are within tolerance (fuel,ignition,boost,injector duty ,over boosting,etc etc).Then if engine fails check again (fuel,MAF,pressure etc)dont assume
It seems funny cars to fail after 20 or 50000kms because of oil or procedure of changing oil .
All cars start without oil after service and they DONT fail
Didnt intent to make it that long.
Cheers
My97 with 155000kms
Oil-5-50 or 0-40Mobil
Never prefilled oil filter ,or k.sensor,plugs
Motec48,fmi,water injection
550cc inj,500hp fuel pump
Modifird fuel rails
3" exh. heat wrapped,K&N filter
Oil change every 4000ks(myself)
Mapped on the dyno to run 98Ron
Never use octane addidives(as they can fool plugs)
24psi boost all the times
Gauges,only boost and shift light
Driven hard
Although few wrxs have fail here (Australia) this is not anywere the number in UK considering there more than 14000 of them around (OZ specs)
One thing that sticks out is, cars in UK(majority) are imports,meaning tuned to run Jap fuel(100 to 102Ron)and no amount of octane addidives will substitute for a commercial tested and proven 98, 100 or 102ron fuel.
Car need to be mapped properly for fuel available.
It is well known here that a standarnd WRX is bullet proof.
"The best trouble shooter is the one who knows nothing,and doesnt assume cause unless is proven".
It reminds me of the old days when mechanics will change 10 different parts to get it fixed and then have the guts to bill you for the lot.
Engine repairers will never find the root cause as this is their livehood.
My advise will be
ut the car on the dyno and road and check all parameters that are within tolerance (fuel,ignition,boost,injector duty ,over boosting,etc etc).Then if engine fails check again (fuel,MAF,pressure etc)dont assume It seems funny cars to fail after 20 or 50000kms because of oil or procedure of changing oil .
All cars start without oil after service and they DONT fail
Didnt intent to make it that long.
Cheers
