Change the plugs anyway dude, if they havent been done for 12 months

 

PFR6's, if that's what they are, should be good for 30,000 miles plus. Take them out and have a look by all means, but if the plugs have been replaced according to service intervals, this is unlikely to be the problem. Certainly 12 months use, if the engine is otherwise running well, would be no problem for them at all.

BTW, as far as the SECS being the way to go, it (and DeltaDash, which works the same way) are very handy tools, and can show engine parameters that aren't easily accessible by conventional gauges.

However, what they aren't (at least the current one isn't) is a real replacement for all other devices. As things stand, in an ideal environment, you'd want a conventional boost gauge, a KnockLink and an AFR meter as well as oil temp/pressure measurement - in addition to everything SECS and DD can measure as standard.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 9/30/2003 6:31:06 PM]

 

the plans just now are to go for an afr just now and a knocklink when the money's there.

cheers for all your help m8

 

If I were you I'd do it the other way round. I know the KnockLink is the bigger expenditure of the two by the time you've got a sensor, but this will give you the greatest security that your engine is (or isn't) running within safe limits.

A properly calibrated (the Dawes is the most useful of the commercial ones) AFR meter can give you a lot of confidence that everything's hunky dory, but you only get a usable reading on WOT. You can still get det on part throttle - whick the KL will pick up, but the AFR meter won't alert you to.

 

Plus you can still det with rich AFR's.

What is the peak MAF voltage output and at what revs. They can be misreading only by a small amount, but still completely stuff up your ignition timing, enough for your car to det.

Take mine for an example, lambda voltage was reading 0.89V (ie still v. rich) but my failing MAF was causing upto 5-6 degrees more advance in certain parts of the map compared to since I've replaced it. ECU was reacting by pulling upto 6.5 degrees of knock retard, but my knocklink still showed it to be detting

Simon

 

eh...dunno enough about all this stuff yet at all, but greasemonkey, you have made a fair coment about the kl and it'll has changed to being the first of the two to be purchased.

 

hi guys

what i don't understand is that if u have a knocklink why would
an AFR be necessary .. correct me if im wrong but running lean
causes det which would be picked up by the knocklink ... is there
anything else lean running causes ???

leeps