£80 is cheaper than a melted engine!

 

The standard pipe is awful mate! Just take a look at it, I'm sure it's only about 80squid from sameco for a nice one, or aps do a sexy looking aluminium one for about 100 IIRC (He says with the standard one still on) .

Why not put your old DV back on and see if it fixes it. Maybe your maf took a bit of a bang when replacing the turbo?

Dave

 

Think the OEM ones are about £180 new from main dealer (that was for a 99-00 that a palk of mine got quoted) so £80 is a bargain.

Sorry to go off at a bit of a tangent but in my experience the knocklink can also pick up things other than genuine det depending on where the sensor is mounted (although in the cases mentioned above it definately sounds like genuine det).

I noticed increased knocklink activity a few months back which got gradually worse. Then one day the gearbox went kaboom! £rd gear disintegrated. I definately got a redlight when that happened. Replaced the gearbox and hey presto, knocklink activity back to normal, so it seems it had been warning of the impending demise of 3rd gear. Must have been generating noise at the requisite frequency.

Just my little gem of info there.

Going back to the point though, the aftermarket Samco type pipes are much better for flow than the OEM. You only have to look at them to work that out, but I agree with Mr. F they are very expensive for what they are.

Cheers

Rich

 

drb5 have you fitted that tdo5 turbo to your car without a remap

 

Late to the party, and John's covered all the important angles, but something I couldn't miss...
I've got as long a memory as most, and I don't recall you posting about a split intake pipe. If you had, the answer would most certainly have been to replace it ASAP.

As the others have said, an aftermarket one is the way to go. Cheaper than the OE part, and flow considerably better too. Try here.

 

In rb5's defence... Split pipe post


Edited to say, although it was in Wanted and not General Tech...

[Edited by The_Judge - 12/22/2003 9:43:24 AM]

 

Ah, Wanted forum. That explains a thing or two.

 

cheers guy's. i'm sure i'd mentioned it before although, i could be mistaken and put it in an email or two instead and just presumed i put it up here too.

 

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=275468

go to the second page and the fifth post...it will be my own post and i explain i found a split in the intake pipe


the defense rest's

 

you bought that pipe yet?

 

Standard DV may be weaker and is cracking open slightly at High Revs / High boost. This may cause it to run leaner as it may be getting extra air in the back door, so to speak.
This may then lead to DET.

You may also get it on the gear change as the DV opens and closes again.

 

P20SPD has one for sale and i'm getting a price off him at the mo, but i'm gonna give raldes a call too just in case they can supply me one of the samco ones. but may i ask one more question? if you can buy a samco one, does it come with all the wee end bit's on the side's so all the wee pipe's can attach to it?

 

stevebt

yup, i did fit the turbo without a remap. was told it was fine for my stage of mods

scott.t

will have a look and see if the pipe on the dv is on properly, but i'm still waiting on a forge coming from down south for me, so it will be getting swopped over sometime soon hopefully anyway.

 

Dave **** the samco one mate, just make your own one if your going to be spending any more than £50!!!

 

Dave, Just in case there was a misunderstanding, this was not what I said when you collected said turbo Is that why you had the ?

Andy

 

drb5 sure ive got a blue samco hose that your after as im replacing my intercooler with an sti one and if its the bit that is the metal y piece on the sti then i definately have one, but youll need it quicker than ill be able to get to you xmas and all that post will be shockin

 

Steve, the piece he needs is the pipework that clamps to the inlet of the turbo that comes from the airbox.

Maybe he suffers from selective amnesia Andy?

 

i know you said that i should get it done asap, but can't remember you sayin that i should never drive the car hard until i got it sorted...might be wrong though. i am kind of forgetfull from time to time

 

the man is stupid.

the prosecution rest's

 

ya cheeky big boogar

 

Hi Dave

I suggested that your aftermarket air filter on a std ECU could result in your car running dangerously lean. I also mentioned that the higher flowing TD05 could result in your cars ECU accessing areas of the map that had not previously been used. These areas generally tend to be on the rich side but that could not be guaranteed.
I recommended that you get the AFR checked as soon as possible and advised against running more than std boost.

cheers

Andy

 

all info is taken on board m8. as soon as i can get the intake pipe replaced, the better. i won't be driving the car hard at all until it is. but what do i do then? i know you've just suggested getting my afr checked, but it's brand new, so is the lambda sensor and how can i check if the engine isn't detting without driving it hard and looking at the knocklink?

 

Sorry Dave, I didn't explain myself fully.

The standard lamda sensor is not accurate when checking the AFR level under full power, it is only designed to check cruise and idle conditions.

When I said get your AFR checked, what I meant was have your car checked out under load with a professional air fuel ratio meter (known as a wideband AFR meter)

You can either go to a rolling road to have this done or speak to your friendly turbo supplier who can check this with a tailpipe mounted device.

You can take a few shortcuts to power here, if your ignition timing works out ok, you may get away with raising the fuel pressure to add more fuel. If the resultant AFR is acceptable then it is safe to increase the boost a bit further.

The above assumes you have an uprated fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

I managed to get some respectable figures from a std unmapped ECU using this method.

Let me know if you want to give it a try. In the meantime, regard knocklink activity as a ticking bomb !!

Andy

 

cheers andy for explaining it to me. gonna get the intake pipe off p20spd and fit that. maybe after that i'll get me very friendly turbo supplier to do this check on it if he's not too busy?

 

although this may sound a backward step , you could also sell/exchange your good MY99 ECU(probably ae800 but may be a 801) and get a MY00 ae802.

this way you might get enough cash to pay for the inlet pipe while getting a more retarded and richer ECU. it is supposed to be the safest MY99/00 ECU especially when raising the boost and fitting other turbos.

[Edited by T-uk - 12/23/2003 12:39:37 AM]

 

cheers t-uk, but a link is getting fitted and mapped by BRD at the end of february

 

well........

the intake pipe is now on. two new inlet manifold gaskets have been fitted, as well as me noo defi bf's(<jazz styleeee>niiiiiiiiiiice) and i'm STILL getting the red light in fourth gear at 5k revs.

any more idea's people? should i just get the uprated fuel pump and regulator fitted and drive carefully till the end of februaru, when i get the LINK fitted???

 

I would! Took mine back to Bob this week, and with Det cans Bob found that mine was 'sparkly' just a tiny bit, but with the KL set to max sens, it was picking it up as red light. All he did was retard the ignition advance 1 degree at around 4.5-5k and that cured it!!

Now getting no red light, just the very occasional 1 Amber when ragging it! but normally just green

Just goes to show how little needs to be wrong for the KL to pick up on it! Don't ignore it tho

[Edited by PICKLE - 1/2/2004 7:02:51 PM]

 

How much boost at 5000rpm in 4th when it happens?

 

dunno exactly....round about 1.1 bar