I'd agree that in some cases ABS in the snow is a total hinderance (when you're just trying to slow/stop - when trying to steer it's useless braking anyway).

Going down a very gentle hill in an inch or two of snow, I started at the top very slowly in 1st gear, throttle completely closed. Car was picking up speed slightly, so dabbed the brakes to keep the speed under control. Pedal goes solid and starts clicking, usual signs of ABS cutting in and it was almost like having no brakes at all - the wheels just kept turning!

In that scenario I'm pretty damn sure the car would have stopped much easier just by locking the wheels and allowing it to dig into the snow. I was going slow in the first place and it was a straight bit of road but IME it's not a pleasant experience having the ABS practically disable the brakes (I ended up managing to stop with the handbrake! With hindsight would probably be better switching the ignition off to disable ABS then locking the brakes).

 

My advice... When it snows get in the Sport. I had my Sport Special through major snow and ice. As long as there is ground clearance it will get you through.
Had a big slide in the turbo last night in Aberdeen. Tried to turn left and there was a big sheet of ice. So in with the clutch on with the lock and wait. Came round nicely. Just takes patience. As for the ABS it didn't come on because I wasn't on the brakes.

 

@mart360
Your completely correct in your understanding that ABS does brake more effectively when the wheels lock under normal driving conditions, particularly in the wet. However you also need to understand why it works and then you realise that it is less effective in snow.

When braking on water, as the wheels slow down, they are less effective at displacing the surface water through the tread. If there's enough water, the tread will fill and can no longer displace the water and you are effectively running on slicks, hence the wheel locks and you start to skid. By releaseing the brake the wheel will rotate again and once again displace the water alowing the tyres tread to once again grip under braking and stop the car. This is what you should do if you start to slide and anyone who tries to say they can do this more effectively than a computer is a liar!

On snow things are slightly different. The same pricipal applies that the snow blocks the tread in the same way in which water does, however, when you release the brakes and the wheels roll again, the snow often sticks into the tread. Infact, the snow is probably already stuck in the tread before you even brake for the first time! So when you brake again, you already effectivly are on slicks and will immediately lock up again. So in effect, an ABS system will just keep applying and relesing the brakes with little effect. Your braking force would effectively be the rolling resistance of the wheels against the snow. If the wheels are allowed to just lock, there is little braking force, however, this is more effective than the rolling resistance of the wheel and you will stop quicker the with an ABS system.

Either way, you'll probably crash! The answer to the problem of braking in the snow is not simply disabling the ABS, but to stop the wheels locking in the first place. Firstly, a softer compound rubber will allow the tyre to work more effectively at low temperatures. Secondly, a wider and deeper tread cut will help disperse the snow (or water) more effectively. Thirdly, a thinner tyre width means there is less distance for the snow/water at the center of the tyre to travel during dispersion, thus the snow/water can be dispersed quicker (Check out the rally cars on the Swedish rally - they look like there on pram wheels)!

Fit winter tyres!!!

 

Just a query on the abs v non abs, do the scoobs not have brake distribution which sends the braking to the wheel(s) with most grip?, I understand the reasoning behind abs and why it might be prefferable not to have it in certain snow conditions ie. fairly deep, if your on sheet ice nothing is going to stop you other than the immovable object mentioned further up, best to treat it as aquaplaning and keep the wheels straight and depress the clutch to allow the wheels to roll and wait for it to come back,

 

I don't know for all of you but in most countries of continental Europe winter tyres have to be used by law in winter months. That's mostly from November till March.

And belive me they make a huge difference!

Kristijan

 

intresting note that i noticed

as for taking out abs fuses and such and the legalities of not having the fuse in,i noticd that if you do sum massive doughnuts the abs shuts off anyways untill the engine is stopped and restarted, so burn up your front garden for a bit, shut the abs off while the fuse is still in place and your laffing
lmao

 

ABS is useless in most snow and ice

Winter tyres are worth the hastle

dont go to fast and you wont have to brake

 

I've driven my scoobs a lot in snow and ice - ABS is *not* useless in snow and ice, it is just a little unnerving.

In my WRX MY01 wagon you can actually lock the wheels in snow with the ABS on - it only will do it when you get to about 5mph or less. Anything more wouldn't be that useful in wedging snow anyway.

If you are on sheet ice and the steering is feeling a little light going into a corner - the single worst thing you can do it boot on the power like you would do on the track. just push the clutch in and pray. The best thing to do is to try turning sharply in Tesco's carpark on ice. try the corner with ABS, without, with power, no power and the clutch engaged and with the clutch in and see where you get to.

it is worth noting that the tick over of the engine in gear can be enough to lose grip in a WRX.

It'd be great to do a trackday on an airfield covered in snow!!!

rd