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Does an FMIC need water spray?

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Old 11 July 2001 | 11:22 PM
  #31  
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I've recently joined the BBS and must say I am mighty impressed by the knowledge of Adam M.I do not understand why people are trying to slag him off.Lets not forget he has a degree in Physics.By the way whose opinions do people think he is repeating?
ps I think this is a great site.
Old 12 July 2001 | 12:20 AM
  #32  
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Ian what type of Scooby have you been running your set up on. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by IWatkins:
<B> What I meant was one pump (if it is powerful enough to deal with it) and a pair of valves (ERL Manifold blocks) one for WI the other for WS. Have both of them separately controlled.

Cheers

Ian[/quote]

Old 12 July 2001 | 12:46 AM
  #33  
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Ian has a Toyota Celica GT4 type of scooby.
Old 12 July 2001 | 12:59 AM
  #34  
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Ian,

my only fear with breaking away from using erl stuff, is that as they know water injection, their equipemnt is designed with the kind of quantities of water required, as in pressure and flow. They are also matched to the jet size, to give a specific spray pattern. My guess is thatv this has been tested time and time again to get it right.

I wouldn't have enough confidence in my own ability to make sure an alternative pump can provide the same statistics.

With regard to it failing, if the car is mapped with water injection in place, and the system fails, does anyone know if an egt sensor would be affected quickly enough to pick up the lack of water before any dangers occurs?

I know if egt goes up then it is already running hotter, I just wondered if the time would allow you to react.

In terms of safeguarding, would it for example, be possible to use a defi fuel pressure guage to measure the water injection pressure, and issue a warning if it plummets?
Old 12 July 2001 | 08:29 AM
  #35  
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hot in here isnt it.
water injection isnt a new phenonemon it was used quite a lot during ww2 to increase power on supercharged engines at silly boost levels.
adam as you're a physics chap can you remind me how to calculate the theoretical temp drop using water or a 50/50 mix with methanol (stops freezing in cold weather and allows finer misting along with other benefits which escape me at the moment)
as from memory this is what was used and if those engines failed there was more than a bit of pride to worry about.
ps this isnt a dig at anyone i just like to know these things(sad isn't it).
richie
Old 12 July 2001 | 12:16 PM
  #36  
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Bob, water spray will be fine,

I plan to run water injection from a pressure switch and a one off control system.

Steve,

Thanks for doing what you did today. You have strengthened what little knowledge I had by proving that you are exactly the type of person I thought you were. I suspected this when I met you, now I have proof.

When you have your own brain (by your own admission), I look forward to finding your posts interesting, until then I will just cope with the content which you currently spout.

To all others that have contributed to this thread, thankyou for the benefits of your knowledge and experiences.
Old 12 July 2001 | 05:30 PM
  #37  
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Adam,

Much easier would be to hook up a float switch in the water tank. If the float decends to a low point get that to trigger a boost reduction (or retard ignition).

ERL's super-duper system actually monitors water pressure on the high side and can trigger a boost reduction etc. if it isn't happy that the water is flowing properly. It can trigger an input to the MoTeC for example and can also put on a little light etc.

But if you are going to map the car based on it not having water injection, then no great shakes. I simply have a little light in the cockpit to tell me when the pump is running and when there is no water left. You can get a water pressure gauge from ERL themselves or you could use a fuel pressure gauge if that helps to keep your gauges all coordinated.

As for your comment about going elsewhere for pumps etc., fair enough, your car, your choice

Cheers

Ian
Old 12 July 2001 | 05:40 PM
  #38  
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What you really need is a pressure switch in the high pressure side that will signal the ECU and you when the water system has failed. Of course, if the pressure switch itself fails, then you are still in trouble... but, IIRC, that's why standard ecu's only retard so far due to knock sensor input.
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