David_Wallis

no, dont think so..

I think the jdm comes with a std linkage too.

Absolute Shower

Okay cheers...will have to sort a quick shift too.

911

Talk to TEG as at the Autosport Show they had a real 'racer' type shift on sale, all rose jointed!
911

Absolute Shower

How much was one of those 911? If more than the expensive Subaru kit, then def no-can-do.

greasemonkey

Problem with a fully metal jointed shift (if that's what it is) on a roadcar will be fatigue on your hand and wrist.

I'd be a little concerned about the dangers of RSI or carpal tunnel syndrome if you were using one of these things all the time. May need to wear driving glove to take the edge off the shock loadings and vibration!

David_Wallis

Greasemonkey.. you talk some **** but for ***** sake if thats your main concern with a modified car then..

David

greasemonkey

What's the point of modifying the car if you can't drive it comfortably? I'm speaking from experience, and CTS is not nice, believe me.

Not having seen this TEG shift I don't know whether it's fully metal, but if it is, that alone would be enough to make me look elsewhere. I've got a nylon bushed shift on ATM, which is stiff, but at least there's something compliant between hand and box to absorb the worst...

David_Wallis

I wouldnt have said nylon is exactly compliant.. its pretty hardwearing and not exactly what I would class as absorbing..

CTS probably isnt nice... and having 3 severed tendons in my right hand I can begin to guess what you mean.. however there is no point modifying a car if you want it to be comfortable iyswim.

David

Cord

or take your hand of the gearstick inbetween gear changes and put it somewhere cushioned where it's meant to be. The weering steel!!

911

Wish I hadn't mentioned it now.....but I'm with Dave!
The bolt-on frame was all tube and solid, not a compliant bush or pivot anywhere. The base of the lever mounts in a small spherical bearing with almost zero play, and a rose joint for the link off to the box's input/shift shaft, all topped off by a snazy nylon ****!!
Anyway, it was priceless at the show as they arrived just a day or two before. Their test runs will be done by now so worth a call?
911

David_Wallis

weering steel.. psml or weering steelaa

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Solid rose jointed type gear linkages are also VERY noisy - so I suspect you need a ghetto blaster type ICE to drown it out - but then you wouldn't be able to hear the big ends rattling....................

David

911

Just adds to the race car sound track. Gave up on the radio in my Sti hillclimber when I took all the rubber out of the suspension and rear diff mountings...
Now it has an RA box with 4.11 diffs = 5500rpm @ 78 mph.......................
I only do 2500 miles each year so not too bad.
911

Absolute Shower

Being no expert on these diffs...can I get an R160 suretrack diff with 3.9:1 ratio to fit a JDM 6 speed box?

dowser

There are a lot of innacuracies above

- Short shift linkage is available from www.rallispec.com for US$351, not UK pounds. It shortens the throw and improves the feel considerably over a stock Euro shifter - very snickety-snick and super fast, but probably not that good for what may be pretty weak synchros on the 6MT's...... Don't forget you'll need a gear **** too.

- I don't (yet) have problems with the synchros on my 6MT, but it is very easy for me to crunch any change when caning it..... I *believe* Skassa has a problem with 4th synchro on his, and will be trying some special Subaru oil recommended on NASOIC to combat it.

- there appears to be lots of confusion regarding the 3.9:1 and 3.54:1 ratios, and what goes where. Here's my understanding; rear diff ratio is set by the crown wheel and pinion. Pinion runs the length of the diff housing and connects the prop to the CW. The CW bolts to the actual diff unit (whether it's open, SureTrac, viscous, ATB, plated, whatever ). Assuming you have a functioning set-up now, just use your original CW&P with whatever new diff you're fitting.
If you're searching for a complete rear diff assembly suitable for use with a JDM 6MT, it may be easier to purchase a Sport rear diff housing which is 3.9:1. You can then ditch the open diff in this and either fit the standard Euro viscous diff you currently have, or source a better alternative (plated, SureTrac, Quaife, etc.) if that's what you want.
Don't underestimate how much work it is to swap a diff unit though - everything needs to (or at least, should ) be set-up correctly. This is done with custom spacers on the carriers following the procedure in the manual - order spares before attempting the job. As an absolute amateur when I did my conversion, this was the bit that gives me the most concern for longevity of my solution

Also note - plated rear diff mine seems to make for a very noisy drivetrain when coasting down (full power is no problem)......but that's maybe due to my above concerns about correct set-up

Richard

Absolute Shower

In that case, I'd be no better in sorting the internals of the rear diff. API said they've got a free rear 3.9 diff (open?) - but I want LSD, and since the above for me is out of my skills, think I'll have to sort a Quaife.

Denmark

iTrader: (2)

I do indeed have trooble with the 4th gearsyncro,but hope to be able to cure it with the new gearoil,but i don´t think it can........

I also considering ordering some Redline MT-90 as this seem to be really good for the syncro,but it´s only rated GL4,but i have not heard of any that have broken the gears only the syncro´s

Skassa