Edcase

its the two airvents and the hazard warning light that comes out. You need to pop open the cup holder, unscrew that, and then I think it should come out. Its been so long I cant remember. That piece is definitely one whole section though

pbee

Midlife

I had my fascia off last weekend to line the stereo up better. you have a screw in the cup holder and that comes out. the whole fascia from the cup holder down then comes off in one piece (needs a gentel tug from the top). the part that edcase has used for mounting the leds is part of the airvents which just pop out once the fascia is out of the way.


cheers


Peter

Soapy Sam

For those who are idle like me you can simply remove the circuit board complete with LEDs and mount it with the LEDs on view:



No soldering and 10 mins to fit....

highlander68k

Fed up with the ugly looking thing too.

It would really make sense for Link to redesign the knocklink into something a bit more stylish.

dij

I have to agrea with highlander.

If it wasnt for the engines going bang,I wouldnt pay £10 for the (current) knock link.

Turbo Steve,YHPM......you clever git

SimonH

I know stuff all about electrics but still managed to desolder the LEDs and remount them in the A-pillar. Absolute doddle and looks good (IMHO!) Bits from Maplins again - just a few lengths of wire and some LED holders. Sweet

Pic:


78kb wmv file: "percussion testing" whilst under construction
http://www.hickey1.freeserve.co.uk/knocklink.WMV

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Wow looks good, what are those guages as well?

Wrx Iom

SimonH

where did you get your A pillar pods from and your guages? They look sweeet!

Could a novice even attempt such an install such as yours?

Rgds


Wez

SimonH

The twin a-pillar pod is from JW racing - about £65 odd. Good quality item.
The upper gauge is just a Defi boost whilst the lower is Link digital lambda gauge from BRD.

The install is easily achievable by a novice. I can say that because I am one!

CataIunya

I can never get my kl to light like that what where you twatting your block with ?

SimonH

That's on max sens and lightly (honest!) tapping the mounting bolt for the sensor - don't worry, the sensor still works!! Was using the blunt end of a cold chisel......

MBScooby

Picture of my LED'S relocated, LambaLink on the left and Knocklink on the right

http://gallery93372.fotopic.net/p7038733.html

Turbo_Steve

Using unsheilded leads really isn't reccomended, especially if you replicate all the +ves to the LEDs, You only need one for all of them, and the IC in the knocklink is a sensitive soul...you really need to sheild the wires against noise if you get them past 20 or 30cms.

Graz

Not so....

The only thing sensitive to noise is the signal wire from the knock sensor. That's why Link provide it with a shielded cable. Wires to the LEDs: provided you don't make them so long that voltage drop becomes a problem (i.e. 1m+ of thin wire) noise is not an issue. It's only an on/off signal (+5V/0V?) after all. They don't need to be shielded.

petesmith

Have you got a web address for BRD.

Cheers

Turbo_Steve

Graz, that simply isn't true.

Have look at the PCB and you'll see the Knock sensor uses a common supply that is not decoupled from the LED supply in any way. Add to this that the LM359 variant used on the board is notoriously susceptible in noise (it's used extensively in various bit's of audio kit, and it's supply and it's reference have to be used thoughtfully to prevent crosstalk). Consider that a 0.5 volt voltage differential in the postive supply can adjust the Vref by upto 20%, and you start seeing that you could be getting red light flickers that are nothing to do with Knock.

The LEDS themselves aren't affected by the noise, but the wires you are attaching are big aerials back to the PCB. The main supply into the box has a lovely big surpressor on it....these LED leads have no such thing.

I would be the first to admit that noise induced in cables behind the dash is fairly unlikely unless you bundle them up in the wiring loom, but don't you just know that the improbable always happens?

Turbo_Steve

In fact, if you want an experiment, try putting your mobile phone on top of the knocklink and calling it (the phone, not the knocklink! "Here, little knocklink...here boy").

Phone will often make the knocklink flash like buggery. Now try it from further and further away. You might be surprised.

Graz

Okay I stand corrected Analogue / RF was never my thing anyway, I'll stick to software

So I'm going to be fitting my Knocklink at some point soon and would like to remote the LEDs. I guess the ideal solution would be to fit a driver IC of some description to the output of the LM359 (op-amp) to isolate it and prevent noise getting back in affecting the display.

I think I may try and reverse engineer it at the weekend (shouldn't be hard), I'm having ideas about microprocessors and LCD displays. Got Lambda Link as well, must have a look at that, it's only a blimmin digital volt meter after all

Graz

Turbo_Steve

I did try opto-isolating, which is a bit of a PITA. After a bit of experimentation, I came to the conclusion that an earthed sheilded cable seems to be adequate up to about 2 metres, before you start picking up "other stuff" and throwing the voltage Ref. It isn't a hugely big deal, but you do notice that if someone in the car is on their mobile, you can get red lights when you'd normally only get a couple of greens! Surprised the heck out of me the first time that happened!

I'm not very well "up" on RF stuff either, tbh mate, it's been a process of trial and error.
What I have seen is plenty of Knocklinks that have not had adequate support for the LEDs and have lost one or two after a while......let's hope it's not the red

I just wish Defi made something cool for Knock / AFRs

If you fancy a trip over to Coventry this weekend, I am doing a few Knocklinks, and could do with some interested company

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

A nice digital meter would look great, sounds like a good little money maker guys

Turbo_Steve

Define "digital meter"?

olliecampbell

iTrader: (3)

Ok probably not the correct terminology for it, but something like the rpm/speed display on a stacked dash.

Turbo_Steve

Sounds like the right description to me! Was just curious about what you meant.
Only problem is...what would you measure knock in? dB? Number of Detonations counted? Interesting idea............

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

As I'm a bit cack handed with the old soldering iron's I just took the outer case off mine, used it as a template and drilled as few holes in my clock surround.

20 min job tops.





Anyone else doen it?