superstring

I sure am glad I started this thread......this is great reading!!

jgevers

Hi 911,

Last week I put a set of P1 springs on my spring tester. The rate seems to be linear, front 37 kg and rear 35 kg. As a starting point I would test 40 kg springs both front and rear on your avos. Unfortunately they might get bottoming out problems, but worth a try. Get avo to fit the stongest foot valve they have.

If this does not work, just ditch the avo set up (sorry for being blunt). There are various ways forward from there, but I think that for competition use, a unadjustable set up will not make you happy. There is to much variation between tracks, corners and tyres.

Personally I would opt for a double or triple adjustable Reiger set up. The reason for this is that they produce a very good damper that will not need re-building all the time, has temperature compensation, but most important of all, the window of adjustment is huge and stable. This means that set up is properly repeatable, and no re-valving is needed to get a good set up.

I know it is an expensive option, but I think that if you take wasted track time, annoyance and unsatisfactory lap times into consideration, the cost is not that bad.

regards,

Job

911

Fair do's.
I've had the AVO's nearly 3 years/8000 miles now, they arn't too noisey at the rear, but i've driven on a track my friend's RA with DMS 40mm struts, what a difference!
Expensive, but they use strange sized Australian springs which cost a fortune.

My 2 1/4 springs are 300 lb and 275 lb rating Fr/Rr. have to find a book and calculator to convert. I think this may be too hard allround?

I thought the Scooby springs were rising rate like Porsche 993/996 are(?).

Anyway, I hill climb tomorrow at the dreaded Shelsley Walsh, VERY scarey, and i'm on remould slicks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks again for the chatting, most enjoyable!

911

jgevers

you are running a 53 kg/cm (N/mm) front and 49 kg/cm (N/mm) back approx.

regards,

Job

ScoobySport (SdB)

911

Thanks for the nice words

You bet! Reducing wheel mass is one of very few things in chassis dynamics which is a net benefit and creates no negatives... this is always assuming that the wheel is strong enough to survive - which just means it's fit for purpose.

In addition, tyres are the only things that make you go, stop and turn, so you should never underestimate them. Of course.. the challenge is that dramatically improving the potential from the tyres, creates bigger demands on the chassis, so you have to change everything again to make most use of it.. but to be frank, you should always go for the "best" (quotes, as there is no such thing as best in vehicle dynamics) tyres for the job.

To be honest, it would be wrong of me to recommend / comment on manufacturers as I could be just telling you a tale to suit my business interests, and I'd rather keep this thread pure

But it's a difficult call in terms of what you should look for in a kit. For instance.. you *may* find that there is something out there which work SO WELL without adjustment that you wouldn't even consider changing it. Or.. you may even be the kind that will never be happy so will constantly want to develop your own set-up over time (I fall into the latter category BTW ) in which case you need the adjustments.. and.. in which case you should make sure you have at least independant bump and rebound.. and if possible fast / slow bump independant also.

Springs are tricky.. as the only way to DIY it is to have lots of different springs and try them all... unfortuantely, it's not as easy to make a spring adjustable

It would be difficult for me to say more without it becoming an advert, so I'll leave it at that for now... but may have more to talk about soon

All the best

Simon

PS. Reiger is bloody good kit, so you wouldn't go far wrong with what Job suggests.

BeverleyJM

The smilie obviously doesn't work, but yes, I'm listening