greasemonkey

That's why it's so important to prime the filter prior to fitting it. Now you know how much oil these tjomgs can swallow, you can see why it can take a while for the oil pump to fill a dry one and re-establish pressure at the bearings.

If you have the engine firing, even only for a couple of seconds, on a bearing on which the oil film has broken down, it's not hard to see the seeds of damage further down the line.

Lol, that's a non-issue when you think about it. Either you fill the filter off the car, or you fill it on the car. Either way the amount of oil needed will be the same (and it'll be more than 4 litres either way).

TedRainhill

Realised that, but didnt wan to say i mixed it with the other Fully synthetic i had left from my last top up jobby. Shell helix "with the farrari badge on it" becuse i know how much grief i'd get for mixing oils...

but theyre both full synthetic, if slightly different types, think that was like 5w/40 or something..oh i know they maybe chemicly imballaced too..

But it was just a lille bit besides £10 for another half Ltr. cheeky gits..

catalunya199again

had my 105k service today with braided hoses fitted £235 with my scoobycity discount card if any of you experts want to earn some money for yourselves i will give a shout on my next service

torment

Another issue,That NOW makes me strain ALL oils i put in my cars....Is,When i owned a 911 porsche,There was some foregn body in the bottom of the plastic oil cans,I like everyone used to just dunk the plastic bottles into the car,Through the oil filler neck...Without looking into the cans,..Anyway,I got some particles into the porsche engine from the bottles,And a lengthy quite a bit of squabbling went on,With the very well known large oil company,(Which shall remain nameless),To strip and completely clean the internals out....To which thay did..
But if you carefully,Drain out the last dregs of the oil bottle into a recepticle,You just may find these abrassive particles in the bottles also,The particles in question,Cannot be broken between your finger nails back to back...I have checked various diffrent makes of oil and it seems very few are exempt from the particles.....I now strain all my oil through a fat-splash guard covered with a womens pop socks or nylons stretched over,I empty the can over the said filtration system into a completely cleaned oil bottle with the large side cut out....And as said,Its frightening what you get out of some bottles...
Just a thought ....Kev.

micared

It's got to the point now where I'm almost prepared to pay the main dealer NOT to work on my car....to clarify, my MY00 is almost due it's 52.5k service. My choice is to let them do the service, which, iirc, is mainly just an oil change, and risk having an expensive explosion after a couple of hundred miles, or change the oil properly myself, and ask if I can pay them the £66 an hour, just to stamp the book and keep the history going to help protect the future value of the car. Given the emphasis on profit in business these days, I simply don't believe the customers interests are of primary concern. Also, the car is out of warranty now, why should they have cause for concern?

Echo

Glad I read this thread, my WRX goes in for a service on Tuesday and will ask that they dry crank the engine, even if they want to charge a few quid more for the time!

:-)

Mike

micared

Yeah, ask away, how you gonna know one way or the other?

greasemonkey

As Micared says, the only way to be certain they do it is to stand there and watch them.

Unfortunately the most reliable way to find out the answers to questions like this is not to ask them - chat to the engineers informally about the car and try and shape the conversation in such a way that they'll volunteer the information. Making a comment about hearing a rumour about Imprezas blowing their engines just after a service would probably do it. A clued up service manager should tell you why and go on to explain what they do to combat it, whereas the ones who laugh and tell you it's a load of old tosh are probably not the sort you want playing with your car.

At end of day this is the best excuse you need to learn to DIY. It's a straightforward job when you get used to it, and the easiest way to be sure it's done right. Not an answer when the car is under warranty of course, but in that case, if it does pick up afterward, at least it isn't you who pays the bill.

micared

Interested to hear from anyone who's had their out of warranty, fsh scoob blow up soon after a service, due to suspected poor oil change procedure.....which is already a known phenomenon.....and had some acceptance of blame from the servicing dealer, or, whilst not having them admit any liability, had an unexpected contribution toward the ensuing repair bill from same......if you take my meaning! Bet this is a short list.....

DJ WATTS

Im a little confused... can anyone shed some light on this step?

micared

DJ, what this means is, when you've replaced your oil and filter, unplug the crank sensor and ideally, remove the plugs to reduce stress on the crank bearings. Then crank the engine .....I've done this for up to a minute, the oil pressure light never goes out on mine during this procedure......however, you will have brought the oil pressure up whilst you've been doing this. Then it's just a matter of replacing/reconnecting and proceed as normal. This is generally regarded by people on here as the safest oil change method. I'll be honest here, I have never removed the plugs whilst doing this.....I personally regard the risk with this as minimal, however that's my choice, and I accept that one day I may have cause to regret it. My view is that it's better to make a decision about something like that in full knowledge of the possible consequences.....if you're not sure/happy , then go the extra mile and pull the plugs out.

Jiggerypokery

Just been to the dealer to buy a sump plug washer and he asked me what type of oil I was going to use, so I mentioned Mobil 1, to which I was told "Don't use Mobile 1 or your engine will rattle, don't use a fully synthetic as it's too thin and won't achieve the same oil pressure"...
What about Motul 300V 15W60? I asked ...
"Hmmm, Hmmmm, possibly, but you're best off with a semi synthetic"

This is the same dealer who uses Castrol GTX Magnatec.

Comments please?

greasemonkey

Lol, that's bollocks. You wouldn't want to use the "normal" 0w/40 version of Mobil 1 (see below), but the 15w/50 "Motorsport" version is fine, and no, it doesn't make your engine rattle. It's used by a number of well known Subaru rally teams in their cars, so there can't be very much wrong with it.

Bejeezers, you've got a live one here! Sure, there are full synths that are too thin (as mentioned above, the popular 0w/40 blends are), but to make a blanket comment about all full synths being too thin points the person responsible as somewhat of an idiot. You can get fully synthetic oils in a whole range of viscosities, from very thin to very thick. In fact, you can get fully synthetic grease as well...

Lol. Small point for the pedantic, but Motul 300v is actually 15/50 not 15/60. Beyond that though, there's nowt wrong with it.

The person who told you the above is a clueless, ignorant idiot. I wouldn't let someone like that, or his employees, anywhere near a car of mine.

NotoriousREV

I would personally recommend steering clear of the Halfords oil filters, the design of the sealing ring is different to the Subaru one. I had 2 of these filters come loose and **** oil everywhere, despite being *extra* careful the second time to tighten up carefully (I'm 100% sure I did it right the 1st time too).

The proper Suabru one from a dealer is the same price as the Halfords one so I don't see the point in using a pattern part. All IMHO of course.

Jiggerypokery

Thanks greasemonkey! I don't think this guy knew that different viscosities of oil are available

Got my filter from the same garage, so it's the new small version, genuine part.
I'll try Motul 300V 15W50 then, fully synthetic at 23000 miles, ok? Is there any special procedure for switching from GTX Magnacrap to fully synthetic? (flush, etc?)
Thanks again.

greasemonkey

As a matter of interest, where on this particular dealer's food chain was the eejut you spoke to? Apprentice/tea boy, service manager, owner, somewhere else?

Yep, you'll be fine putting that in at 23K miles. There's no extra procedure involved in switching from Magnatec to a full synth, other than the "standard" one detailed further up this thread. Don't use engine flush. If push comes to shove, buy some cheap 10w/40, drop the Magnatec, put the cheap stuff in (on the old filter) and drive around slowly for half an hour or so before dropping it all out and putting the proper stuff in.

TedRainhill

Oops... I changed this cos i realised you wernt talking to me..

TedRainhill

Well to be honest, if i thought i'd end up going to Dealer for the Washer, prob would have got the lots from him. Damn, i hope this doenst leak on me. Hehe the dealer did shake his head when i told him i was good for the other bits, and i'd got them from Halfords.. I know for next time.

thanks.

micared

Jiggerypokery, whereabouts is this knowledgeable dealer? You'll find that dealerships will recommend whatever oil company is giving them the best bulk purchase price at that moment in time. Time it right and it will be shell one week and castrol the next....makes for an amusing exchange when you try to pin them down to a reason for their sudden change of brand loyalty!

Jiggerypokery

That's exactly what happened! I phoned the next nearest dealer to ask for a quote on the 20k service, apart from being £60 more expensive than my normal dealer, the guy who answerd the phone said : "Ummm, Impreza... is that a Subaru?"
It's at times like this that I feel sorry for those who haven't heard of scoobynet!

DJ WATTS

Ive got Shell Helix Ultra in my car and its 5/40W

And im possibly noticing rattling because of it...?

Someone please tell me this is fine quick or else i need an oil change like er yesterday???

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how many scooby owners will be under their cars over the weekend changing the oil now LOL

Since I had my first subaru service bill, I've done all it myself. I've always had the knowledge and facilities, just not the time....seeing I know how to do it all, and how much it SHOULD cost and what I was billed for, I made the time.

As a note, the only other engine I know of this filling filter business is with the Rover V8's. But they had crap oil pumps that get air locked......you need to pack them with vaseline if you dismantle them Although I use a modified distributor and a drill as a "pre-luber" before cranking a rebuilt/serviced Rover v8 engine As I never really was happy with what happend to the vaseline in the pump once it was primed (blocked up filter, or sludged oil galleries....no thanks!! )

Monkeh

I had my oil changed by westaway in northamption, and they dont disconnect the crank sensor, they just turn the engine over for a couple of seconds

I wonder how many dealers do ?

yungjamie

hi guys, just joined scoobynet. Can anybody give me some advice. I have recently bought my scooby my95 import and treated it to an oil change. Put the top quality oil in but it is the first I've heard of slowly filling the new filter up with oil before fitting. I did'nt do that. i put oil around the seal and fitted it. If I leave it as it is, will it do any damage?

cheers.

micared

If you've already driven the car after changing the oil and filter, you can't do anything about it, other than check and adjust the oil level.....it may have dropped slightly as the filter absorbs the fresh oil. All you need in there is 4.5 litres, any more and you risk contaminating the boost solenoid.

fastfrank

Hi,

I posted on here several months back when I was about to change the oil on my WRX03. Main dealers are a big rip off so that was a no goa. If you feel confident enough to have a go yourself then go for it!

Prior to filling with the new oil I made sure the new filter was primed to the max so it couldn't take any more before I screwed it on.

Started it up the motor and worked a treat. No issues.

Didn't do any of that crank sensor removal... think this is only relevant to the older scoobs.

Laters
Frank

greasemonkey

Erm, no, not sure where you got that idea. To be safe, you should do this no matter whether you're talking about a ten year old car or a ten week old one.

While the newer engines have slight changes to the lubrication system compared with the oldest ones, the bearings are still the same size, and thus there's still a risk of damage resulting from oil film breakdown.

Unplugging the crank sensor on a new age car can cause a CEL event, but the light should extinguish after five successful starts and so isn't something to get hung up about.

DJ WATTS

Er anyone? 5/40W fine or not?? Please.

greasemonkey

If you'd read the rest of this thread you'd know it's probalby better than cat urine, but not fine.
If it's more than about 1500 miles old, drop it out and put something better in.

micared

If it's recognised protection you want, then no, not all right....Castrol RS10/60, or Silkolene, Mobil, Motul, of 10/15, 50/60 viscosities are known to be o.k. Edited to say lol at greasemonkey!