:-)

 

10W-40 ordered from redline

group buy anyone?

 

Whish we could but we don't stock it.

Can offer a Silkolene, Castrol, or Mobil group buy though

Cheers
Simon

 

Oilman..start a group buy...
or pm me and i`ll start one.

*****

 

Just read through this thread and there is lots of stuff I dont fully understand, however it seems to make sense that you use a suitable viscosity. Call me cynical if you like but which oil has the biggest profit margins?
Tony

 

Oh and I am not very keen on Castrol oil either mostly from my experience 15 years ago with tuned Mini's. Castrol GTX was sh**. Mobil1 worked very well then and I currently use motorsport in my car - not a scooby but correct viscosity for temps down to minus 10C .
My old man has an STI (7 I think, bug eyed) in Botswana he was using mobil1 but is currently trying Royal Purple.
I am interested in a different oil that offers the same qualities as mobil 1 but at a better price. I am also quite interested in buying large qtys to save money say 25litres.
Does anyone else have experience with the silkoline oils.
Tony

 

The stuff sold at Halfords

David APi Engines / APi Impreza

 

None unfortunately other than for the Manufacturers

We make the same pence per litre profit on all our oils so it doesn't bother us at all what we sell other than that it's the right one for your car!

Cheers
Simon

 

Email us for a price list and compare for yourself.

Cheers
Simon

 

I did get a price list, I was just searching for other info on Silkoline when I came across this thread. (Incidently I can get mobil1 motorsport cheaper elsewhere but only a couple of pounds in it). Hope the Subaru owners dont mind a little hijacking .

My handbook shows

-10C to plus 40C 20w40 or 20w50,
and
-15C to plus 35C , 15w40

If I go for 15w50
(which I asume wasnt available in 1990 when the handbook was written)
Will this cover the temperature range -15 to 40C
I assume they are talking air temp.

With mobil1 motorsport I see 5 bar oil pressure dropping to 3 bar when hot at idle, can I expect similar results from the silkoline?

I change oil every 6K miles will you expect it maintain this perormance?

Is there any disadvantage to using Pro R in a road car?

Thanks,

Tony

 

Tony, as your car is not a Scooby, we need to discuss this by PM or Email.

Please send me full details of your car and I'll get a "proper" recommendation for you.

Cheers
Simon

 

It's understandable, but people have a fixation about oil pressure? Is it not the case that above a certain figure the extra pressure is irrelevant? So you get 6bar at 3k - fine, but what is the flowrate? Do you really need 6bar? I know this has been discussed earlier but the combination of pressure and flowrate must be the important aspect?
I go back a few years (err - quite a few actually!) and the old saying of "a lot of thin oil is better than a little thick oil" still keeps springing to mind. Would Oilman aggree that a relatively thin oil with good film strength at a high flowrate be better than a thick oil at low flowrate?
As a matter of interest, I can find no comment in the latest (03model) handbook which warns against using a 5/30 oil in the turbo model, which it did in earlier handbooks! In fact it states "5/30 preferred" - mind you, it also doesn't tell you to fill the filter with oil before installing!
JohnD

 

JohnD

Good point and well put, as I've mentioned before I can't see anywhere that the OEM recommends a 10w-60, still we've done that one to death.

A decent thin oil, 5w-30, 5w-40 or even 0w-40 that is made from proper synthetics will outperform thicker lower quality oils every time.

Its about quality and film strength (shear stability) at the end of the day and I must say getting what you are paying for, not a highly marked up hydrocraked mineral oil.

Perhaps some more enlightenment is required here, I'll see what I can rustle up.

Still, this thread won't die because deep down people care about their cars!

My advice would be to go back to the original post I made, written by an eminent R&D Chemist, not a salesman and take it on "face value" as he would not be recommending the viscosities he does (5w-40 or 10w-50) unless he was absolutely confident of the information. He's an expert, why not listen to him!

Cheers
Simon

 

But if you start with 5 bar at 3,000 rpm and end up with 3bar after some usage heat/cooling cycles then surely that is bad? Would a good oil not give consistent pressure between oil changes?
Tony

 

Wow! If I lost 2bar in the course of 3-4k miles, I'd be really worried!
There are other factors such as oil filter performance etc which may affect pressure over time?
As a matter of interest, from using 10/60 RS I am presently running 5/40 (Millers) Fully warm pressure at 3k rpm has dropped from approx. 90 psi to 85 psi and idle from just under 40 psi to 30 psi (I can remember my Ford Cortina GT in '64 had a MAX. pressure of 40 psi!)
JohnD

 

Thought this may be of interest to those of you with modded scoobys.

If you are "modding" your car and adding BHP then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires.

A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new.

Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this!

To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres.
However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min.

That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem:

Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil.

More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant.

Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating.

A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss.

Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations.

A light or medium viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century.

Cheers
Simon (I'll get me coat then)

 

Oilman, Can't be bothered to trawl all the way through several previous pages to see if this question has been raised and answered before, so apologies if I've missed something.


What's your thoughts and opinion on Slik 50??

David API

 

David,

Don't use it. The product was tested some years ago by the AA and the claims amounted to nothing. I have the transcript but it's long.

I asked the advice of an eminent R&D Chemist and he agreed with the AA's findings, his comments were as follows:

The AA report encapsulates my opinion of Slick 50, it is an expensive way of blocking your oil filter, Believe me, it does precisely nothing beneficial. It has been proven time and time again that it just blocks oil filters and oilways.

For all other “magic” additives, most are based on 1930’s technology corrosive chlorinated paraffins. (synthetic anti-seize compounds originally made 70 years ago. They are cheap, toxic and corrosive. We use them in certain types of cutting oil!) Do not touch them with somebody else’s bargepole!

Hope this helps

Cheers
Simon

 

Certainly helps, Curious though, asl i've used it in everything except any Subaru, including a Skyline, without any obvious detriment.


Your words are heeded, never again.

David API

 

Whats your oppinions on ZX1 which is claimed to be all singing and dancing.

Also-what grade oil is recomended for "modded" scoobys then?

Gary

 

Just stay clear of additives, point.

10w-50 Silkolene PRO S (ester/pao)

Cheers
Simon

You can email me for prices.
Tech data: www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

 

Oilman,

As Silkolene is Castor Oil based, any comment on following and how its been addressed.

If "oiliness" were the only quality to be considered in choosing motor oils, we'd be squeezing all ours from castor beans. Castor oil, the smell of which once perfumed the air at motor races, is the oiliest of oils and it remains in some respects the supreme lubricant. It does oxidize too readily, however, forming ring-sticking gums and varnishes, and daubing fouling deposits on spark plugs. In a running engine, castor oil goes right to work gluing piston rings in their grooves and slathering gum and varnish everywhere. You wouldn't want it in any engine that can survive without its help.
But castor oil, a mixture of ricinoleic and triricinoleic glycerides, plus 10-12% of other fatty acids, remains one of the best lubricants for 2-stroke racing engines. Castor oil clings to metal with such tenacity it cannot be removed except by machining. It is an exceptionally effective film lubricant.

 

Gary

ZX1 may or may not be a snake oil

Films that reduce friction, by whatever mechanism, is not new technology, it's just now being implemented after years of theoretical work.

Exxon/Mobil and others had developed zero-phosphorus AW additives composed of Sodium triborates and Calcium/Boron sulfonates back between 1989 and 1991.

Argonne and other laboratories have triboligists and chemists working on some very exotic lubricants that the public will not see until about 2050.

Late last year R.T. Vanderbuilt (an additive maker) introduced a new Borate Ester anti-wear/EP component.

 

Thanks for the reply-but it went straight over my head

Any chance of putting it in leymans terms.

 

I don't believe any oil manufacturer when trying to produce as good an oil as they can, take into account what other additives might be added by the car owner. Whatever additives you might add can't take into account the formulation of the oil it's being added to. The additive may break a component of the oil making it useless or shorten its life.

Just buy a decent oil and change it early if it needs it!

 

Who said it was castor based?

The oils we have been discussing here are Ester/PAO based Silkolene PRO S and PRO R and are certainly not castor based!

They do 2 castor based products, Castorene 30 and 40 which are monograde castor based racing oils which are methanol compatible.

Hope this clarifies,

Cheers
Simon

 

Exactly!

Cheers
Simon

 

Simon,


I used your site and clicked on race.

Which ester is used in Silkolene Pro then?

 

It is a blend of Ester (Diester) and PAO.

Cheers
Simon

 

I'd say mixture not blend if I was you. It will only confuse the Americans into thinking it is semi-synthetic.