Ian D

I had the clutch and flywheel changed by a dealer on my 98 turbo last month, £850 all in including a new flywheel. I rang 4 dealers and one changes the flywheel as a matter of course, the other 3 inspect the flywheel and replace if heat damaged, one would get the flywheel skimmed. The qoutes I got were £850 to £1050 with a flywheel change, and £575 to £800 without. Three of the dealers stated on a MY98, if you have aircon they drop the gearbox out, but if you have not they often whip the engine out. As a 03 like yours has aircon I am sure they would drop the gearbox out

Good luck

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Mine is a Classic, I'm just 'borrowing' someone elses thread!
As I said, the car is in bits, no hopes of getting it to a dealers or anywhere else without pushing it!!!!

Been working on it for about 8 hours in total now, but I have been working on it by myself! Might rope a mate in to help when I get to lifting the 'box off and putting it back on. (Assuming I get it that far!)
Working on uneven driveway with car on ramps and axle stands, you get the picture! At least it's not raining!!

easyrider

"At least its not raining"-Famous last words eh

Just keep tugging/hammering away at the gear box-it'll seperate eventually-i use a couple of fairly big flat bladed screwdrivers hammered down each side of the bellhousing from above(evenly) to prise it apart,you do have to get faitly brutal with them sometimes.

easy

pugoetru

AT least if you take the engine out you can pull it off the gearbox with the winch i will always take the engine out not as hard as it first seems
you dont even have to take it all the way out just enough to get the clutch off

easyrider

Ive often wondered about doing it that way-can you do it by just moving the engine forward about 4-6 inches?

tweenierob

I change every clutch i do by taking the engine out...

Can sometimes be done in about 2 hours, hour out/change clutch/hour back in.. Not always that simple though

Have you taken out the clutch fork pin? if not the gearbox aint coming off

As posted, you havent even gotta take the engine right out, just far back enough so that the main shaft isnt in the cover..

Rob

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Clutch change with Aircon, drop the gear box.
Clutch change without Aircon , take the engine out.

If dropping the box, then :-

Disconnect battery
Remove starter motor
Remove clutch pivot bar (hidden behind a allen bolt on bellhousing near where the starter is).Once Allen bung is removed, you need a long M8 bolt IIRC to screw into the pivot bar, and then pull the bar out.
Remove cradle for gearbox
Drain gearbox
Remove propshaft from gearbox and diff
Place a rubber glove over end of gearbox, as it may still leak some oil from where the prop shaft enters.
Remove all bolts from around the bell housing (depends on age of car)
Remove the nuts on the 2 bootom studs of bell housing, then remove the studs.
Support centre of gearbox with trolley jack
Secure engine (tie rope around inlet to a strut brace) to stop it tilting forward once box is off.
Remove pitch stop mount at top of gearbox
Remove drive shafts by kncoking roll pins out, then pulling off the axles stubs
Tap top of gearbox with hammer, not hard, but hard enough, and it should split enough at the top to get a pry bar in.
Pry the gearbox off

Reverse procedure except for:

Putt pivot arm bar, and new release bearing back on gearbox BEFORE you put the box back on, once box is on, you will need to push on the lever to ensure the the release bearing is secure in the clutch.

Weight of 5 speed gearbox is about 80kgs, weight of 6 speed is 100kgs

If you have the slightest amount of inability, you should not do it IMO, fecking about with 80kgs or gearbox, on your own, can be VERY dangerous! Having had a gearbox drop on me from the trolly jack, it f'ing hurts, and could so easily have been very nasty!

When places like scoobysclinic offer a new clutch fitted for £300 or whatever, its cheap, trust me.

Subaru book the job as a 5 hour job i believe (dropping the box), so as rob says, taking engine out is the easier option.

Steven

Gidney&Knowlesy

We take 4 hours to do it out & in................ not worth DIY for £160.........

Mortywrx

when I had to change the gearbox and clutch on mine it took a day to do the gearbox (first time) then I took it for a test drive and release bearing popped(couldn't have secured this) So next day took engine out 1 hour re-did clutch 1 hour to put back in jobs a good an.

Darren

tweenierob

I like your style XS!!

NOT worth DIY for £160!! Your pulling my pisser!!!!

Not worth DIY if you are unsure perhaps...

Rob

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Wish I had had all this info before starting the job!

£160 labour sounds a bargain, but it ain't going back on the road as is and it seems a waste to re-build it now the box is so near to coming off!

Taking the engine out sounds like a good idea, if I have to do the job again then it'll be that way.

What clutch fork pin!!?? It could be this then!
I have disconnected the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder from the 'box and that's about it, I'll have a look for this pin as P20SPD describes.

So you think I should renew the clutch release bearing at the same time then?
Where's the best place to get one from?
I was going to skim the flywheel and lighten it a bit at the same time. If somethings got to come off the car it might as well go back on better!

Cheers guys for your comments, I'll let you know how I get on!

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

You can pull all you like on that gearbox, hit it, pry bar as much as you like, but if you havent taken the clutch fork pin out, you aint removing the box or the engine.

Its adviseable to use a new release bearing, but you dont have to.

steven

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Not much to report tonight, had to go food shopping after work and then is got a bit dark and started raining!

I have located the 'clutch fork pin' anyway and by luck had one 10mm allen key socket to undo the cover plug - it was tight!

Found also a short bolt that fits into the thread on the 'clutch fork pin' and will try to get a longer one tomorrow from work. Looks about M4.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that sounds right, new M8 was too big, cant remember sizes of bolts etc

Seriously, when you remove that pin (which can either be dead easy or hard) you will curse yourself as to the speed in which the box comes off

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

I have finally got the 'box off yesterday (took a while this one!). Most of the car is in pieces as I am also putting on a magnex up pipe and had to take the turbo off to do so! Wish I hadn't started the job!

The flywheel and pressure plate show signs of heat damage, they are quite blue in colour in places. I was going to get the flywheel skimmed and lightened a bit (it is currenltly 10.5kg and I read that you can get them down to 8kg?), and re-use the pressure plate, or do you think it sounds past it?

I have uploaded some pics for your analysis!:
http://www.evolutionmms.co.uk/subaru/flywheel.jpg
http://www.evolutionmms.co.uk/subaru...l_close_up.jpg
http://www.evolutionmms.co.uk/subaru/pressure_plate.jpg
http://www.evolutionmms.co.uk/subaru...e_close_up.jpg

I am going to replace the release bearing with an STi version as it has play in it.

wrxfox

when refitting do you fit the release bearing onto the clutch then drop the fork in as your sliding the engine in,or do you fit release bearing to the fork then slide the clutch and engine on? does it matter which way you do it?

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

There is a clip on mine that holds the bearing to the pressure plate, so you would have to fit the release bearing onto the pressure plate / clutch / flywheel assembly then drop the fork in as your sliding the engine in.

The guy I want to do the machining is on holiday - just my luck!
This 'project' could take me a month at this rate!

Gidney&Knowlesy

Has anyone finished this project yet?

"Waiting to pull tweenierobs pisser.............."

easyrider

Rob-click on this-
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...utch+procedure

Half way down,Greasemonkey explains all.

Basically,its what i said the other day

Gary

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Clutch replacement- a big job? - it is when I do it!!!!

Finally got the car back on the road, 'only' took a month!
Went for an Exedy clutch kit it the end as AP Racing messed me around by sending me a clutch plate rather than a clutch cover
I did replace the flywheel, up-pipe, de-cat downpipe & center section (with resonator) and a few other bits at the same time, but it was still a poor attempt!
Ah well, cycling into work was a good exercise when it didn't rain. I also didn't get much help - only with putting the gear linkage back which is a definate 2-person job.

Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart, apart from the intercooler which caused me grief again. I think getting some samco hoses may be an idea if I need to take if off again, as I'm sure they'll flex more than the standard plastic Y piece that goes under the i/c.
I made sure also to put some copperslip between the engine and box so maybe it'll come apart easier next time.

Thanks again for your advice guys, next time it'll be easier!

nigel101

iTrader: (1)

I went to a garage that specialized in imported cars, ment to be £160, ended up being £200 cash. And after job was done, the bearing made a whining noise which was worse then before, and the clutch after a month slipped.

If you got the tools DIY. If it goes wrong at least you can buy another clutch with the money you would have spent at a garage.

Myles

iTrader: (40)

nigel101

iTrader: (1)

OPPS

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

lol