chiark

Gary,

First off, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but...

You could take the switching input for the relay as being the current supply to the fog lights. This way, you need no further wiring passing through the firewall. The relay's coil will only draw a tiny current, so there's no risk in doing it this way.

Someone will no doubt point out the error of my ways if there are any

Cheers,

Nick.

Gary Foster

HowardB

In the PIAA kit there is an override switch, which I assume simply prevents the lights from coming on at all (even if main beam is on). I want this connected.

But I don't want to mount the PIAA button in the dash (messy) when I'll have a perfectly good button which is being used to turn on the fog lights at the moment.

Chiark

That was exactly what I thought of doing !! but I was told this is not what I need, the wire that goes to the fog lights from the switch has +12v (or 0v) So I'd be connecting +12V between the wires which already have 12V. Whereas what I want is the circuit where the PIAA switch is to be broken / made (ie connected to a switch)

see I didn't even understand the explanation my electronics guru mate gave me ...

I'd probably attempt it if all the wires stay within the engine bay.

Gary Foster

Chiark

Nope I'm wrong. I misunderstood your post, surely your solution would mean the driving lamps would only come on when the fog light buttons pressed (not when high beam is selected)

DIGGY

GaryF,

I think this is what chiark wanted, By having the PIAA's wired through the fog light switch you can decide if you want main beam only or PIAA's and main beam......

Don't wire to the fog light connector in the engine bay (on the back of the fog light) though as you will be able to activate main beam from the fog switch!!!

You will need to disconnect the two wires from the fog light switch and fit two new ones..........One from the Main beam 12v circuit to one terminal...another wire to the other terminal which will go to the relay coil terminal supplied with the kit.
Hope this helps, sorry if i am telling you all how to suck eggs!!!

Puff The Magic Wagon!

iTrader: (2)

Anyone got the correct facia for the switch to show driving light not front fog????

If so - where can you get 'em?

jonmyers

i think the only change to the existing fog switch needed would be to change the green light for a blue one. don't know how to do that yet but will have a go when i get my lights. hurry up customs!!

Cheers, Jon

Gary Foster

Diggy

Nope not teaching me how to suck eggs, I'm just a bit fick. I actually inderstood that though (few the light comes on at last !) HowardB has been trying to ram this information into my head for a day but I get it now !! cheers mate(s)

Puff

What in the world would a driving light switch look like ? what's up with the 'front fog' picture looks a bit like a driving light no ?

RichPowell

If you didn't want to take wires through the firewall, one way would be to add another relay with its switched contacts in series with the original one, but energised by the 12v to the fogs. That way only when both the main beam and fog 12v lines were on would both relay switches be on, therefore letting the feed from the battery to the PIAAs be on.

I hope this makes sense, I'm sure someone will point out if it doesn't

Dick White

Problem been with that Rich, is that you can then only run then both together, which at times would be painfull...theres one road sign near us thats too bright with normal high beam on, let alone with the PIAA lamps aswell!

Gary Foster

Dick

Uh, surely you just press the fog light switch ? then the driving lamps won't come on when you go to full beam ?

Rich

You genius All I need is another relay some connectors which will fit into the connectors in the back of the existing fog light cabling and bobs my auntie !!

I assume both the big PIAA supplied relays can both be energised from the same circuit (ie I only need one relay connected to one of the existing Fog Light circuits ?)

Please someone tell me if this won't work (seems fine to me !)

Gary (Very happy chappy)

RichPowell

I've had a bit more of a think about this, and it would probably be better to have the relay that is energised by the 12v feed to the fogs switching the 12v feed that you have taken off of the main beam (i.e. exactly where you would have wired the fog switch if you wanted to take the wires through the firewall). This way you need a lower spec relay (instead of the 100+ amps you would have been switching with my previous idea you will only be switching the current drawn by the relay in the kit). This would be cheaper, and a better design electrically (less switching on the high current line).

Why is it so difficult to explain this with words, a circuit diagram would make so much easier.

DIGGY

Guys,

I have knocked up a circuit diagram, if anyone wants a copy email me and i will send it to you.

I wa sgoing to post it here but am unable to unless someone would like to oblige?

Usual disclaimers etc......

Mark

Dick White

oops..i missed the "but energised by the 12v to the fogs" bit when i read Rich`s fist post


hehe

Gary Foster

Has anyone managed to fit this bloody kit. Quite honestly I wish I'd never seen this stupid group buy. Next time I'm getting it fitted by someone who knows what they are doing.

I'm still on the actual mechanical fitment (not attempted wiring yet).

Probs so far :-

20mm Hole in bumper, there's a metal backing plate behind the plastic which my drill but won't go through. Can't find anywhere that sells a 20mm Metal drill bit

Can't adjust the lights. Can't get to the back of the nut once fitted to the car - so how do you adjust the aim of the driving light ? also, when you tighten the nut, this twists the joint putting the light out of alignment again.

This is not the most impressive bit of kit I have ever bought. And for the money being paid I really expected a polished product. PIAA has a better reputation than they deserves IMHO.

(Ps I take particular exception to DRM's instructions - my ****, I expected pictures, where to route wires, how to adjust the thing etc)

DIGGY

Gary,

Are you going to the Quays meet on Sunday? If so i'm sure "we" can help you out,

Mark

Gary Foster

Diggy

Quays meet ? eh ? I guess I really should read the Southern Events thing more often. I'll have a think, some free help is an enticeing idea ... shall bring my screwdriver if I come ...

Chiark

You are a star ! Thats exactly the type of instruction I need !. Not quite as good as your excellent Gauges article (which god forbid may mean I invest in the gauges !). Can go in the collection along with the chap who did the GGR Shortshift thing (yes I managed to fit it !!!)

I don't know how you guys do this stuff without instructions.

Gary

chiark

Installation is simple, and takes about 2 hours.

For a 20mm metal drill bit, hie thee hither to B&Q. They sell 'em: they're white, labelled "metal hole cutters" and come in various sizes. You'll need some high current cable, available from maplins, a 30 amp automotive relay (maplins), terminals (guess), cable ties and a fuse holder.

Wiring can be very, very, very simple. I've used 1 relay and wired them to come on with headlights by taking the switching feed for the relay from the yellow/blue wire in the headlamp.

The lights really are damn good. Don't get downheartened as it is worth it.

For brief fitting instructions, see