papascooby

so a WRX PPP may have a top speed of 157mph?

and how much damage does dropping the clutch at 6000rpm do? ie how often could you get away with doing it?

RRH

I always consider the clutch as a safety valve for the gearbox; the more grief you give the clutch, the more is transferred to the 'box.

I really wouldn't want to do it too often matey, although it probs is the quickest way to exceptional figures at least in the short term.

I never give it more than about 5200 rpm as there's nothing much going on above that IMHO

virgin

dod you just say a ctr is quicker than a wrx if they where both 220 in on a track ?

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

I think he means that it's easier to exploite the power in a scoob due to the flatter torque output.

At least I think that's what he's torquing about !!! (soory couldn't resist!)

merlin71

It's torque at the wheels that counts, not at the fly, so using as much of each gear as possible (i.e. redlining) will get you home quicker than changing short to drop onto the power band.

virgin

really !, so this changing gear at 5200 rpm where the torque drops off is incorrect then ?

are you saying redlineing the car will get a better zero to 60 ?

virgin

does anyone know if this is true ?

RRH

There is little point holding on to revs once an engine has passed its peak torque if changing gear will will keep you in the power band.

With a racing engine with wild cams one changes gear to keep it 'on cam' as there is bugger all happening out of the power band, holding the gear until the rev limiter puts unnecessary stress on the engine and will reduce lap times.

RRH

the CTR (with 220) and WRX are reasonably matched in the dry, the CTR having a slight edge due to transmission drag of the 4wd system in the WRX.



In the wet its another matter altogether.....

virgin

thanks RRH

Just a couple of Q ,s if possible mate,

without wishing to sound funny, but shouldnt the wrx without ppp be more than a match for the ctr instead of the other way around because the wrx figures, 0-06 , and to 100 etc are quicker ? and should the torq of the wrx help out the bends incl awd wether its wet or dry ?

and do you know what that guy meant about bhp at the wheels rather than crank etc ?
he thinks that going near to the redline would produce a quicker time ?

i normally change at 6000 with my wrx 04 ppp because the car physically starts to feel its lossing power, so i change.

i see you have a lot of posts so i guess your the man to ask so,i dont have a torq graph of the wrx ppp 04 so i am not sure where maxime power drops off, any ideas without a rolling road what i should change at ?

cheers mate

RRH

sorry, please excuse my ignorance, I only read half the thread. Was talking about a stock WRX.

I have been on track with CTR's and WRX's, both PPP and standard, on many occassions, driving both. In the dry the CTR will usually show the WRX a clean pair of heels, and will be roughly the same as the PPP. In the wet the CTR struggles to get the power down- either the traction control will turn up and ruin the party, or it will spin a lot of the power away, where the WRX can transform it in to forward motion.

I'm not sure about the power at the crank compared to at the wheels comment. There are certain cars and engines that benefit from high revs, and some that don't.

The likes of an Impreza will reduce boost when the revs are over a certain level, and you benefit more from changing up and hitting full boost again. I personally never take my 04 WRX abov about 5800 revs as it does little for it.

Whilst I try to make my posts informative, please don't take everything I type as gospel- like many, I can talk through my **** from time to time, and much of what I type is not based on scientific evidence, but on fairly substantial experience of performance cars both on road and track.

virgin

thanks

crusher

As RRH says, for max acceleration you need to use the torque the engine is producing and timing is everything...theres no point in going near/past the red line if useful torque is falling off steeply..you need to change up and time the change so you fall back into the useful torque band of the next gear giving max acceleration...this can be difficult to judge at first as you don't realy want to be looking at rev counters..on an STI the rev limiter buzzer is a useful aid...I find if I set it at 5600-5700 I get good results!....