2.2 stroker kit
06 January 2005, 05:46 PM
#31
Ha!
1
They were GCE's when I wer a lad
2
I've got 8 so there
3
I wasn't allowed to do Woodwork either, always wanted to make a guitar.....
4
Did a 5 year apprenticeship....remember those?
5
Cut my teeth on a Lambretta, and my cord trousers, and my desert boots, and my Union Jack helmet.....kept on falling off the thing......
Think we've lost the plot here, appol to the originator.
911
1
They were GCE's when I wer a lad
2
I've got 8 so there
3
I wasn't allowed to do Woodwork either, always wanted to make a guitar.....
4
Did a 5 year apprenticeship....remember those?
5
Cut my teeth on a Lambretta, and my cord trousers, and my desert boots, and my Union Jack helmet.....kept on falling off the thing......
Think we've lost the plot here, appol to the originator.
911
Last edited by 911; 06 January 2005 at 05:47 PM. Reason: word added
08 January 2005, 07:18 PM
#33
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Mind if I bring this back to stroker kits (and ask some novice questions) ...
Are these actually kits where you donate a stock engine? Or is that a difference between these, where the 2.5 is a new engine and the 2.2/2.3 are kits?
I have seen an STi 3 at Powerstation that has a new 2004 engine in it (one taken from a new STi before they turn it into a Type25). Would this engine make a good doner (new age engine in a classic?).
What is a closed deck block?
If a 2.5ltr is "good for" 400/400, what is a 2.2 and a 2.3 good for?
One last question, if its "good for" I assume other changes are required or even advised e.g. clutch, new ECU etc. Could someone suggest a base list of other components that would be advisible to change.
Cheers
Tim
Are these actually kits where you donate a stock engine? Or is that a difference between these, where the 2.5 is a new engine and the 2.2/2.3 are kits?
I have seen an STi 3 at Powerstation that has a new 2004 engine in it (one taken from a new STi before they turn it into a Type25). Would this engine make a good doner (new age engine in a classic?).
What is a closed deck block?
If a 2.5ltr is "good for" 400/400, what is a 2.2 and a 2.3 good for?
One last question, if its "good for" I assume other changes are required or even advised e.g. clutch, new ECU etc. Could someone suggest a base list of other components that would be advisible to change.
Cheers
Tim
Last edited by Timmy Tato; 09 January 2005 at 09:20 AM.
09 January 2005, 09:03 AM
#34
From what I've read, the Crawford 'kit' is a ready-to-use short engine, all new parts, so has been assembled by someone who knows (I expect).
The Toda kits are exactly that and seem expensive to me for a 2.2.
In project and here in drivetrain are 2 good threads that unravel the complexity of these stroker engines.
If anyone wants a 400x400 then a stock EJ 257 short engine, + Sti v3 engine parts and the usual bigger peripherals seems a painless way there (in $$$ terms), but I wonder what the Insurance increase is?
The gearbox must suffer too, so another cost and effort to do that one.(£2K)
Just some thoughts.
911
The Toda kits are exactly that and seem expensive to me for a 2.2.
In project and here in drivetrain are 2 good threads that unravel the complexity of these stroker engines.
If anyone wants a 400x400 then a stock EJ 257 short engine, + Sti v3 engine parts and the usual bigger peripherals seems a painless way there (in $$$ terms), but I wonder what the Insurance increase is?
The gearbox must suffer too, so another cost and effort to do that one.(£2K)
Just some thoughts.
911
10 January 2005, 05:14 PM
#35
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In stock at last.
I can confirm now that this kit is in my hands. .50 pistons and rings all new, Billet Steel crank, steel rods, closed deck block. Competition bearings and built up at the price below.
A Jun 2.2 stroker kit arrives on my container from Japan today. Closed deck block, New pistons and rings, steel rods and I believe [ until I see it ] a steel crank.
£3250 plus VAT assembled short motor with sump and oil pump and seals. Heads extra. Much interest but no takers just yet.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza 01926 614333
A Jun 2.2 stroker kit arrives on my container from Japan today. Closed deck block, New pistons and rings, steel rods and I believe [ until I see it ] a steel crank.
£3250 plus VAT assembled short motor with sump and oil pump and seals. Heads extra. Much interest but no takers just yet.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza 01926 614333
Last edited by APIDavid; 11 January 2005 at 09:13 AM.
10 January 2005, 10:48 PM
#36
*cough*
Originally Posted by Tim W
This would as opposed to the more common 'glass' subaru cranks would it?
I take it you really meant to say a billet steel crank?
I take it you really meant to say a billet steel crank?
11 January 2005, 05:08 PM
#37
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lol at glass cranks!
glass cranks and chocolate pistons!
why bother with a stroker kit?
You can buy the internals separately for far less money, we are just talking 2.5 crank, rods and pistons here.
the the guy that asked, closed deck blocks were only available in 2.0 and 2.2 litre guise (22B and ej22t equipped cars, but 2.2 litre closed deck blocks are rarer than rocking horse poo). Closed decking refers to some extra material in the block which supports the liners far better and makes the block stronger and better suited to high boost aplpications. that said, many people have made great power on open deck blocks.
The 2.5 that people refer to is an ej257 and comes as a complete short block with pistons, crank and rods. This combination is not meant to to be great for high revving as the loading on the rods goes beyond their specification. The ej257 is also semi closed, not fully closed (slightly less support) and is rumoured to generate some head gasket issues when pushing for 450plus bhp at high boost levels, apparently.
Some people therefore use a 2.2 or a 2.33 (2.2 bore 96.9mm with a 79mm stroke crank (from a 2.5) as opposed to the standard 75mm crank.
Engine with a 79mm crank by virtue of their geometry are less willing to rev, and the higher average piston speed also puts greater load on the big end bearings and the rods. You can strengthen these in any size of engine by replacing them and allowing you to rev beyond 7000 again, but making them withstand the revs doesnt make them willing to rev like a short stroke motor is.
eg. a skyline engine has a much shorter stroke, and is much more free revving. This will also be associatted with the head designa nd the cam profile.
My engine which is a 2.5 starts to get pretty gutless (comparatively speaking) at 8000 rpm, but it has stronger internals which means I can get away with risking it.
That said the longer stroke engines develop more torque per rpm than the shorter stroke motors, so you dont find you need as much in the way of revs to make the power and tend to drive the engine on the torque. That would be my preference any day as revs kill engines more than anything else, and all the other systems are also pushed to their limits as the revs climb.
glass cranks and chocolate pistons!
why bother with a stroker kit?
You can buy the internals separately for far less money, we are just talking 2.5 crank, rods and pistons here.
the the guy that asked, closed deck blocks were only available in 2.0 and 2.2 litre guise (22B and ej22t equipped cars, but 2.2 litre closed deck blocks are rarer than rocking horse poo). Closed decking refers to some extra material in the block which supports the liners far better and makes the block stronger and better suited to high boost aplpications. that said, many people have made great power on open deck blocks.
The 2.5 that people refer to is an ej257 and comes as a complete short block with pistons, crank and rods. This combination is not meant to to be great for high revving as the loading on the rods goes beyond their specification. The ej257 is also semi closed, not fully closed (slightly less support) and is rumoured to generate some head gasket issues when pushing for 450plus bhp at high boost levels, apparently.
Some people therefore use a 2.2 or a 2.33 (2.2 bore 96.9mm with a 79mm stroke crank (from a 2.5) as opposed to the standard 75mm crank.
Engine with a 79mm crank by virtue of their geometry are less willing to rev, and the higher average piston speed also puts greater load on the big end bearings and the rods. You can strengthen these in any size of engine by replacing them and allowing you to rev beyond 7000 again, but making them withstand the revs doesnt make them willing to rev like a short stroke motor is.
eg. a skyline engine has a much shorter stroke, and is much more free revving. This will also be associatted with the head designa nd the cam profile.
My engine which is a 2.5 starts to get pretty gutless (comparatively speaking) at 8000 rpm, but it has stronger internals which means I can get away with risking it.
That said the longer stroke engines develop more torque per rpm than the shorter stroke motors, so you dont find you need as much in the way of revs to make the power and tend to drive the engine on the torque. That would be my preference any day as revs kill engines more than anything else, and all the other systems are also pushed to their limits as the revs climb.
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