Honda Civic Type-R tuning companies
#31
Originally Posted by CraigH
So you've gone from wanting info on suspension, exhaust, induction and remapping, to an air filter and springs.
Do you have trouble getting up in the morning, deciding which side of the bed to get out of?
sheesh
Do you have trouble getting up in the morning, deciding which side of the bed to get out of?
sheesh
"Springs" - enlighten me....when in blue hell did I ask about springs?? You change suspension you do it propely. Springs on their own is the choice of the B reg XR3i owner.
Unlike most I wanna be sure what I want, not just dive in and regret it. Done that already and only *just* got out of it.
....anyway, back on track please. Again...
#32
errrrr no springs is a good way to lower the car. Most of the scoob owners on here have pro-drive / Eibach spring kits. Full suspension is big money, expect a £1K bill for the type R matey. Plus geometry set up and labour of course..
Gary
Gary
Last edited by Gutmann pug; 10 February 2005 at 02:27 PM.
#33
Originally Posted by Gutmann pug
expect a £1K bill for the type R matey.
Gary
Gary
Don't just wanna "lower" it. More to it than that. If I do it, I do it properly or not at all. Lower springs with original soft setup = B reg XR3i styleeee.
"jump out lads, my arches are getting foocked. Can one of you get out and the other sit in the middle while I go over this speed hump at 0.000000042mph".
Last edited by Senior_AP; 10 February 2005 at 02:25 PM.
#34
Sorry Steve .... but 1 min your talking about not wanting to spend money on mods. (you were interested in a supercharger till you realised it was £3K) but now your gonna spunk £1,300 on suspension, £200 on induction and no doubt another £600 on an exhaust. Thats looking like over £2K to me.
Gary
Gary
#35
Originally Posted by Gutmann pug
Sorry Steve .... but 1 min your talking about not wanting to spend money on mods. (you were interested in a supercharger till you realised it was £3K) but now your gonna spunk £1,300 on suspension, £200 on induction and no doubt another £600 on an exhaust. Thats looking like over £2K to me.
Gary
Gary
#36
The trouble is mate your making assessments on what other people are telling you without even test driving the car ....You maybe happy with it the way it is. Its very much the same as our mutual friend saying about HAVING to buy bits for his scoob, coz he was told they were MUST DO mods.
I know you wont take any notice but listen for a minute ..........
I was going to buy a cooper S or 182 clio brand new / ex demo. Strip it, cage it, mod it and use it totally for the track. When I worked it out I would spunk massive amounts of money on the car and end up with something which was un-saleable to anyone other than the track day market (and no-one on there will pay good money)........If you mod the type R you will not stop. It will start with suspension / induction / exhaust that will move onto other ESSENTIAL mods and before you know where you are you have spent £3-4K and ended up with something which in the market place is worth £2K less than a standard car. Do what you like mate but THINK first. I almost made the mistake and im glad I didnt .......
I still think the type r is a good car for you but one which is standard or close to it is a good choice .......
Oh and a 30mm lower stiffer spring kit will not turn you into one of the speed hump crew, it will make the ride height and centre of gravity lower though.
Gary
I know you wont take any notice but listen for a minute ..........
I was going to buy a cooper S or 182 clio brand new / ex demo. Strip it, cage it, mod it and use it totally for the track. When I worked it out I would spunk massive amounts of money on the car and end up with something which was un-saleable to anyone other than the track day market (and no-one on there will pay good money)........If you mod the type R you will not stop. It will start with suspension / induction / exhaust that will move onto other ESSENTIAL mods and before you know where you are you have spent £3-4K and ended up with something which in the market place is worth £2K less than a standard car. Do what you like mate but THINK first. I almost made the mistake and im glad I didnt .......
I still think the type r is a good car for you but one which is standard or close to it is a good choice .......
Oh and a 30mm lower stiffer spring kit will not turn you into one of the speed hump crew, it will make the ride height and centre of gravity lower though.
Gary
#37
Originally Posted by Gutmann pug
The trouble is mate your making assessments on what other people are telling you without even test driving the car ....You maybe happy with it the way it is. Its very much the same as our mutual friend saying about HAVING to buy bits for his scoob, coz he was told they were MUST DO mods.
I know you wont take any notice but listen for a minute ..........
I was going to buy a cooper S or 182 clio brand new / ex demo. Strip it, cage it, mod it and use it totally for the track. When I worked it out I would spunk massive amounts of money on the car and end up with something which was un-saleable to anyone other than the track day market (and no-one on there will pay good money)........If you mod the type R you will not stop. It will start with suspension / induction / exhaust that will move onto other ESSENTIAL mods and before you know where you are you have spent £3-4K and ended up with something which in the market place is worth £2K less than a standard car. Do what you like mate but THINK first. I almost made the mistake and im glad I didnt .......
I still think the type r is a good car for you but one which is standard or close to it is a good choice .......
Oh and a 30mm lower stiffer spring kit will not turn you into one of the speed hump crew, it will make the ride height and centre of gravity lower though.
Gary
I know you wont take any notice but listen for a minute ..........
I was going to buy a cooper S or 182 clio brand new / ex demo. Strip it, cage it, mod it and use it totally for the track. When I worked it out I would spunk massive amounts of money on the car and end up with something which was un-saleable to anyone other than the track day market (and no-one on there will pay good money)........If you mod the type R you will not stop. It will start with suspension / induction / exhaust that will move onto other ESSENTIAL mods and before you know where you are you have spent £3-4K and ended up with something which in the market place is worth £2K less than a standard car. Do what you like mate but THINK first. I almost made the mistake and im glad I didnt .......
I still think the type r is a good car for you but one which is standard or close to it is a good choice .......
Oh and a 30mm lower stiffer spring kit will not turn you into one of the speed hump crew, it will make the ride height and centre of gravity lower though.
Gary
Suspoension, induction, exhaust. All very easy to put back to standard. I do listen to reason, which you give. It's just condescending "know it all's" I have no time for.
I remember when you were talking about spending 18 or so grand on a car to strip out to use on tracks etc and I said you were crazy. See, we all make mistakes.
I'll test drive the CTR - at the mo I'm just doing homework.
#38
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dumbria
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep it standard; I spent close to a grand on mine for a extra 20bhp at the top and 30ish in the mid range. If I'm totally honest it wasn't that noticeable. Hence the PPP'ed sti.
If you do get one, steer well clear of open type induction kits. The engine performance suffers greatly with these due to heatsoak, the air induction on a ctr comes from the back of the engine were the airs too warm.
Loud exhausts also become a royal pain in the **** on the car which rev's so high. Unless you're slightly deaf already. The Mugen catback is about the best trade off with noise and performance, but they ain't cheap.
If you do get one, steer well clear of open type induction kits. The engine performance suffers greatly with these due to heatsoak, the air induction on a ctr comes from the back of the engine were the airs too warm.
Loud exhausts also become a royal pain in the **** on the car which rev's so high. Unless you're slightly deaf already. The Mugen catback is about the best trade off with noise and performance, but they ain't cheap.
Last edited by anc-sti; 10 February 2005 at 03:20 PM.
#40
Scooby Regular
Originally Posted by anc-sti
Keep it standard; I spent close to a grand on mine for a extra 20bhp at the top and 30ish in the mid range. If I'm totally honest it wasn't that noticeable. Hence the PPP'ed sti.
If you do get one, steer well clear of open type induction kits. The engine performance suffers greatly with these due to heatsoak, the air induction on a ctr comes from the back of the engine were the airs too warm.
Loud exhausts also become a royal pain in the **** on the car which rev's so high. Unless you're slightly deaf already. The Mugen catback is about the best trade off with noise and performance, but they ain't cheap.
If you do get one, steer well clear of open type induction kits. The engine performance suffers greatly with these due to heatsoak, the air induction on a ctr comes from the back of the engine were the airs too warm.
Loud exhausts also become a royal pain in the **** on the car which rev's so high. Unless you're slightly deaf already. The Mugen catback is about the best trade off with noise and performance, but they ain't cheap.
#41
stealth systems in southampton are currently working on a track car for a customer comprising of a rear engine rwd kit car chassis running a civic type r engine with a front mounted intercooler and a vortex supercharger running 22 psi! crazy!
#43
I just have to say you do not have to spend £'s to set the CTR up and make it a hugely enjoyable track car. After all most ppl who have driven one in those environements will tell you that a track is where it really shines as if anything on the road it can be a tad over damped. Pads/ braded hoses, Set of Toyos, A hondata K-pro, AEM induction and a Spoon cat back will get you a fiesty little machine and no mistake.
Put that lot on a car with 24k on the clock (barely run in on a civic and ask anyone they get better and better the more miles, ours has done 44k and is just better than ever )
A set of Tein/spoon springs is fine.
After seeing Andy Barnes from Sumo hooning around Brands and being held up by an R33 GTR, then catching up to an M3 and blasting past after out braking him in the above set up, you could not be anything but impressed.
And you have a car that will get you home without braking down....ever.
Put that lot on a car with 24k on the clock (barely run in on a civic and ask anyone they get better and better the more miles, ours has done 44k and is just better than ever )
A set of Tein/spoon springs is fine.
After seeing Andy Barnes from Sumo hooning around Brands and being held up by an R33 GTR, then catching up to an M3 and blasting past after out braking him in the above set up, you could not be anything but impressed.
And you have a car that will get you home without braking down....ever.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post