Butkus

Someone has mentioned them on here already, but I've had great service and advice from Autopia. I've spent a lot of time on their forums too and it's a great place if you're serious about your car cleaning.

You'll learn all about how polish is different to wax, the difference between synthetic waxes, sealants and Carnauba, and also all about how to get rid of the dreaded swirls. I'd also say this - you might think your car is clean, but when you look at some of the cars on that site.....!

I have used the following method on my car since it was new in September. It's metallic black. I use Sonus shampoo, and wash with a Microfibre mitt. This is rinsed after EVERY pass over the car (which are always in straight lines by the way). This gets rid of any grit from the mitt which might scratch the car. After washing, I clay with the Sonus clay kit. This is amazing and it's hard to believe there's so much junk attached to your car. This gets rid of it. Once the car is rinsed off (you may need to quickly wash again after claying), you should dry with a microfibre drying towel. I never use Chamois as again this can scratch.

Next is the polishing stage. This is one of the most important parts as it's going to prepare your car for the wax and it's also going to be where you get rid of any swirls (the fine scratches in the paint visible in bright sunlight and particularly under fluorescent lighting). I've been using Sonus Paintwork Cleanser which leaves the paint very smooth and gets rid of very light scratches. If your paint is in a bad way, you should probably look into the more abrasive products such as the Sonus SFX system. I've found this preparation stage to probably be the most important part. Preparation is KEY!

Finally, you're onto the waxing stage. There are synthetic waxes and Carnauba waxes. Synthetic waxes offer more protection and last longer, whereas Carnauba gives more depth of shine and a wetter look. I like to combine the two. I've been using the 'Klasse Twins' which consists of Klasse All-In-One and Klasse Sealant Glaze. You can keep applying layers of SG to build up the protection and get more depth. This should be used very sparingly. I've been topping all of this off with P21S Carnauba wax. With this, the car looks incredible.

Just to add, I recently tried Meguiar's Hot Shine for tyres and it's by far the best product I've used on tyres. Very black, very wet and lasts a long time.

Hmm, I've written an essay here. I'm quite into this car cleaning thing now, but really, I think it's well worth it.

globalgb

Some sound advice there mate, but surely you dont clay detail and polish every time - i do this about once every 3-4 months and then just build up layers of wax after using a careful car shampoo clean combination? Continued clay bar's and polish will actually damage the paintwork in the long run (usually oxidisation) ?

Butkus

No, I usually just wash and add more SG or P21S. SG can be a pain to use but I'm starting to get used to it - VERY thin layers. I clayed the car at the weekend though and that's the second time I've done it. First time was when it was new 7 months ago. I have used it one extra time though on the lower part of the doors where all the cr*p gets kicked up from the wheels.

I know what you're saying about polishing and claying, but if you use them correctly there shouldn't be a problem. If you keep on top of it all you should only ever require very mild polishes, and if you clay correctly with plenty of lubrication you're only 'exfoliating', you're not actually removing clearcoat or paint. If you look on the Autopia site, there's a little article about an experiment that was done where the guy kept polishing and polishing a test panel. The thickness was tested with a special tool (a Caliper style device of some sort?) and was found to have hardly changed. Certainly nowhere near causing any damage anyway.

I understand though, and if you regularly wash the car and keep applying wax you don't have to clay and polish too often.

Fulham71

Here is an idea of the shine you get on a DBM using Shield wax

Scooby Snacks 23

It's got to be SWISSOL every time for me.

Although not on my Cupra

TonyFlow

Fulham - that looks VERY clean - but I think due to the lighter colours in Sonic Blue, that is not attainable on my car (it wasn't when the wax wizard had a go either). I found that the wax didn't make too much difference to the shine, the "wet look" comes from the cleaner fluid!
Perhaps you could pm me the steps you tke to clean the car, and I will give my Swissol stuff another go (not quite run out yet, just bought the other stuff as I am getting low on swissol!)

Hanley

I'll second Adams comments

I mailed Alex after reading Adams review and he done me a great deal with free p+p

Would definately recommend

ozzy

Thanks Paul/Tony. Bit of a turn-up with the MC2 stuff LOL.

TonyFlow

Whats the turn up then?

Was i right about the virosol?

ozzy

Sorry, I don't know if it is Virosol for sure. I was just commenting on the suggestion that it was one in the same. Wouldn't surprise me in the least.

TonyFlow

Apparently it has been chemically proven that they are ona nd the same!
Have you seen the price of virosol? £5odd for 5 litres - Mr Underwood must have been raking it in!

Shark Man

Why do people insist on posting pics of their cars in threads like this

IT PROVES NOTHING...I can post a pic of an equally shiny car that has been waxed with Turtle wax.

(BTW you can get VERY good results with turtle wax and other cheap brands. In many cases you can get better results than stuff like swissol due to the owners not taking enough time and preparation before waxing).

Photography abilities and downsizing of picture size and resolution completely defeats the point your trying to make...in fact in some cases it detracts from it So just don't bother, it waste bandwidth and gets in the way of the actual thread!


Right then...To add on-topic advice to this thread:

As posted earlier...everything on the how-to on this website is superb: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
Its accurate and truthful and will tell you how to get the best finish using the cheapest stuff on the market and getting the same results as stuff costing 10times more.

The key is preparation, the paint surface should feel like glass when you run your finger along it before you wax it. If any roughness is felt then further cleaning, rubbing, and polishing is required before any wax can be applied. You will also have to remove any chemical contaminants and old waxes using a chemical cleaner or thinners before you start polishing or rubbing.

G_Sleigh_STi

www.mothers.com

Never seen a clay block system and wax system to leave a glass like touch to it! AWESOME

corradoboy

Richard, unlike most other wax products that you can apply to the whole car and then buff off later, Simo must be buffed off straight away. I usually do a patch approx 1 foot square at a time. Apply, buff with 1 terry towel, then buff again with another. When the 1st towel gets too impregnated with wax, bin it and use the 2nd towel for the 1st buff and get a new 2nd if you get what I mean
This stuff is a hard wax with a very high carnuba content, not like the liquids with a tiny amount of real wax and a load of silicone and other $hite. As a comparison, about 3 weeks ago I did the whole car with Meguiars Gold Class, and the next day I had just enough time to Simo the bonnet. When I washed the car today the Meguiars wasn't reticulating water, but the Simo was like new. This is how I've found every other wax I've ever tried. Although Meguiars is as shiny as Simo, like all the rest it just doesn't last. Great for a quick do in the winter though.
Although I haven't used the Swissol stuff, I do have friends whom have, and TBH I can't see much difference between mine and theirs when parked side by side. Certainly can't see £100's difference.

I'm typing this whilst I have a break from doing the rest of the car

MattOz

I use Meguiars products. Value for money is the reason. How anyone could honestly compare a Swissol kit at £100 to a Meguiars kit costing £40 is strange. There is no way that the Meguiars is only 40% as performant as the Swissol. Still, if you're selling the Swissol.......................

For most people, with normal bank balances and cleaning tendencies, Meguiars NXT is the best you can buy. Clearly this should be preceeded by a clay bar-ing and clear coat body scrub if the car is manky, but an NXT'ing once a month ensures beading all year round.

I do use Zymol shampoo, but that's only £6.99 from Halfrauds!

Matt

Fulham71

MattOZ

The issue is that you arent comparing like for like !

There is more to value for money that the original purchase price !

Take into account the initial cost & length of time the product will last & the results Swissol always comes out on top !

Ask Max Power or Classic & Sports Car magazine ! They have done the tests !

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Fulham71

Please remember that because you are not an authorised advertiser any future posts that are seen as commercial will be removed without warning.

Many thanks

Paul

Fulham71

Paul

I have not commented on the products in any way other than I would as a user !
I have passed comment on the products & offered factual comments on the products so that users of all products know the products !
I have not contacted anyone regarding any products !

I thought I was passing on my technical expertise for the good of the forum !! Am I not allowed to do that ?

Paul

PS If you check threads I have also never advertised my products & sinply referred to a thread where suppliers were mentioned like my company & Scoobyworld or referred people to scoobyshop !
Please check this out !

corradoboy

So my Simoniz which always looks just as good as my mates Swissol at £5 a tin for 15+ full applications works out worse value for money And it lasts over 6 months on a single do, so that's almost 8 years worth for a fiver !!!