He cant miss them they are everywhere

 

Mass air flow sensor, mounted just after the air filter box in the pipe. Known to be a weak point on 99/00 impreza. Known to cause problems from poor idling to blowing up your engine due to it running too lean fuel mixture.

Andy

 

LOL... I well remember greasemonkey espousing the complicated method; if memory serves it was identical to Lewis's in the sheer amount of poncing about that was advocated.

Well done, Pete.

 

Well done again pete, I dont think I have laughed as much for quite a while ive got to admit that if you take everything in, you will be paranoid for the rest of your life but for me I will still take advice now and again off the experts like DaveAPI,johnF,RobB etc etc keep up the good work

 

Brilliant - was actually laughing out loud reading that - not many threads on here have that effect, I can tell you.

All true what you say, but I guess we all love our cars so much that we try that little bit harder.

I remember asking the Service Manager at Carstins about this removing crank sensor/plugs business after changing the oil. He said, "well it's a fair point, but only effective if you do the same when starting the car from cold, every friggin day (you muppet)" The last bit he didn't say, but I know he wanted to

You are a funny man

 

It is not the same as a cold start. The Scoob has a modine oil/water heat exchanger above the filter, it hold about 75ml of oil, and the oilways above that will also drain down as it sits right under the pump, this will all remain full of oil, indefinitely, if you just stop the engine.

You may also be surprised to know that you can quite easily prime the engine with oil by hand. I now do this for engines that I assemble on a stand, so the gallerys as mostly full before the first cranking on the starter.

Paul

 

How do you do that Paul; can it be done in-situ?


Simon

 

You could probably do it in situ without the radiator. I just use a 2 ft breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and spin it up while on the stand, I it takes about a 30 secs to a minute of turning to prime up to the turbo oil feed, by which itme the whole engine is primed. It can be reassuring to do it like that, as a number of times now I have had problems getting a fresh engine to prime.

Paul

 

Appreciated

 

Careful now, you're getting genuinely technical! Next thing you know Oilman will be here trying to flog Silkolene?
JohnD

 

LMFAO



all we need now is petes guide to rollcages and im ready to retire

 

So? we've all got to take our radiators off now and spin the engine by hand for 30 seconds - BRILLIANT!!

Keeps all the old ladies happy I suppose

I, for one, will take all of 15minutes doing an oil change - fill the filter but start the car straight away (its just GOT to be the fastest way to get the oil around)

Pete

 

Spat my Hot chocolate all over the place, well done Pete,

Funny as ****

Andy

 

I, for one, will take all of 15minutes doing an oil change - fill the filter but start the car straight away (its just GOT to be the fastest way to get the oil around)


Keeps the old man happy as well,in more ways than one

 

fortunately for you, and very fortunately for everyone else pete, I very much doubt you will be rebuilding any engines so priming them prior to fitting is unlikely to be an issue.

Paul

 

I did wonder about shark's comment that the system won't prime on the starter.

If that's the case, where the hell does the oil from the pump go? it is an n(n-1) pump, if it turns, it pumps, no avoiding that


Pete, don't you think you are tempting fate by taking the p1ss out of those who are extra vigilant? don't do it yourself, fine, but don't laugh at those who do? you are going to need their help when your engine has let go.

 

Does this oil stay there when you do an oil change or empty out completely?

 

Yes, and the local specialist geometry alignment people will tell you that the wheels are the wrong offset (P1 wheels on an MY00), you've got a bent wishbone because the wheels are out of alignment "by the look of it", and that your lights dip the wrong way because you bought a UK spec car from Holland - "you can tell because the arrows on the lenses point to the left".

Oh, and the rear suspension/geometry of the car cannot be adjusted in any whatsoever.

The phrase "a*sehole" was made for these people. Funnily, they offered to source and fit a new wishbone, and source "correct" lights for the UK. Turning the lights on against a wall sort of showed them to be talking utter, complete ****e and that if they tried to charge me for this travesty of advice, I'd either run them over, or make damn sure that they didn't try the trick on with other people one way or another.

Laser alignment "specialists" sometimes know as much about geometry as I know about knitting. (Not a lot, before you start).

I ended up taking it into tyres northampton to get the geometry checked because I was worried about the wishbone thing. Would you believe it, it turns out that the "specialists" were talking absolute unqualified rubbish. TN set my fronts up, aligned the rears (yes it can be done) and charged me a lot less than the "specialists" wanted.

So I really *would* advocate taking the car to someone who knows how Subaru geometry works, and preferably someone who knows Imprezas. Someone who doesn't think "oh, new car, this guy'll be good for a few quid".

 

I also find the below statement unusual from Shark as this goes against everything I was told to do when changing the oil. I was told always to disconnect the crank sensor from a very experienced Scooby guy so I am surprised to read the folllowing.

"Especially cranking with the Crank sensor disconneted.. Most oil pumps on many cars DO NOT PRIME whilst being cranked on the starter...it just turns over far too slowely to purge the air (thus why the oil pressure light takes ages to go out). And infact you could do more damage as the cranking will remove any oil film left on the bearings, so they run completely dry (not good)"

 

That scare story equally applies to the many dodgy Subaru "specialists" dotted along the country I'm afarid. And they are about as good and cheap as the main dealers (I won't digress my opinion of the main dealer in my area )

 

Tell me this, does your oil pressure light ever go out whilst doing this?
And if it ever does how many minutes of dry cranking are you doing before it finally does?

Just look at the design of the oil pump, pretty much like any other road car, one gear running eccentrically inside another. Great at pumping liquid, crap at pumping air (not viscous enough). A pump with just a thou of wear on its faces may never prime at this at slow speed due to the air just going round and round, escaping from inbetween the teeth, it can't create enough suction to pull the oil up from the filter. Which if no oil supply appears whilst cranking, it will squeeze out any remaining oil film that is always present on the bearings after switching the engine off - this is what protects them during starting where no pressure is present.

The flipside of course is there is little loading on the bearings so it may minimise or have negliagble results.

The point in what I am saying is there is no benefit from doing it, with possible concerns to the uninitiated if it never does prime.

I don't really care what people do, they can do as they feel or ask when they get the oil changed. It's their car, they can do whatever they want. But what I ask is for people not to go mad and start posting rants at people who do not use these unproven method. Especially when they haven't the actual in depth understanding of the engine or even stripped down and blueprinted at least one of their own engines.

Experienced people on the otherhand always makes their own decisions based on their own findings. These will always differ with other knowledgable people and cause conflicts, so this is MY OPINION. So like it or not I'm entitled to it.

Similary to the use of 10w-60 oil, or 0-40 oil...which has been debated at extreme length on and off for years now.

As a note I should add I do advocate filling the oil filter, as no harm comes from doing it, especially with the priming problems these engines sometimes appear to have.

 

As i have said before,

each to his own method, and if its the wrong method, expensive bills,

But i still take a lot of info from all you Guys and Gals on Scoobynet

and so far with the odd exception the info has been good.


Just my 2 cents worth

 

Can everyone please CONFIRM that the Subaru Main Dealers do NOT fart about with some '****' "special" Oil change procedure??

Please state that they do the Oil change in EXACTLY the same way that Vauxhall and Ford do with their mainstream cars??

ie, Oil out, new Oil in, start engine ..................................

And look at the number of Boxer Engines destroyed because the '**** Guide to Oil Changes' wasn't followed ................ foooking loads of them on every motorway and carraigeway across the country

NOW, if a Main Dealer comes on here and states that SUBARU make them do the **** Oil Change ..... I'll have to eat my words and then I will be following their lead!

Pete

 

Pretty sure the official Subaru method decrees that the oil filter is filled before it is fitted to the engine, which I believe is not standard practice on every make of car.

 

You couldn't do this with many cars because of the angle at which the oil filter screws on. The oil would just pour straight back out of the filter before you had chance to fit it.

 

True

 

we fill the oil filter before fitting, that is all, no removal of rear seats etc or sensors or exhaust.!!!! Never have we had a problem with a car we have serviced before after following this procedure.

 

OK - I give in - what do Widow Wipers do ?

Regards

Fox

 

Haven't you seen all those old girls standing around in queues and about the place with a big smile on their faces??

WELL, they've just been to see the widow wipers !! Boom Booom.

David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com

 

LOL


Fox