Houghton

iTrader: (1)

I'm not that **** that I've actually timed it but it's certainly more than 2 seconds. Starting the engine after oil change would see a RPM of (guess) 1,000 therefore 1 second = 17 revolutions of crank without oil pressure but with residual oil film. The crank bearings will be subject to the forces of compression & combustion 34 times for however many seconds it takes to develope sufficient pressure to separate the contact surfaces.

I'm afraid I've always done this, not only on Subaru but all car's I've had, just to satisfy my own mechanical sympathy or by your definition, just to be ****

Gerry

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

So, you pre-fill the filter? All the responses to your wind ups isn't totally lost then? Was that on Subaru's recommendation or by the overwhelming concensus of opinion on here?

As for filling the night before, it saves time when it comes to changing the oil. The whole job only takes a few minutes so if the filter's sitting ready to be fitted there's no delay. As for keeping it in the box, the last thing your engine needs is a few grains of grit or a wayward housefly lurking in the fresh oil at the bottom of the filter. Bloody hell, does everything need to be spelled out in words of one syllable?

It's all a question of what you consider to be good practice. Personally, being considered **** doesn't bother me in the slightest. Being a pratt by disregarding good advice does.

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

I think P1mark has answered this quite nicely.

pslewis

So?? Its ALL down to the pick-up pipe losing its oil is it!

Have you ever held a straw at the top and kept water or pop in the straw ... well thats what happens to the pick-up pipe!! A 5 year old has discovered this!!

I pre-fill my Oil Filter as I believe in it, Subaru laugh at me, I still do it .........

But the Crank Sensor .... thats another ball game .... seriously ****

My car has been serviced by Subaru 9 times now, to their recommended schedule and way of doing things ........... it's got 58,500miles on it and is it completely shagged???

NO IT'S NOT!!

I don't know, you lot disconnect the Crank Sensor, leave your oil filter filled overnight ( I REALLY think you need help with that one, by the way!! ), worry about which way to turn a nut, whether the ECU is mapped for the fuel you have just put in ......

Then what do you do?? Modify the engine beyond its design and blow it up!!

Village Idiot springs to mind!!

Anyway, how do I check the gearbox oil - hot or cold? and what is the fluid amount from E to F??

Pete

pslewis

What CAD systems are you using at the moment?

I ask because our CAD Sytem lads know all the top Engine Designers in the major companies, which car maker do you work for?? They are sure to know you ...... certainly if you have also been a consultant with the motorsport teams!! Pretty good for a 36 year old .... usually the best designers are in their 40's but you seem very impressive - you WILL be known within the engineering field.

We are currently hiring engineers from Rover, Longbridge...... they have only worked on very primitive engines, but we can train them in modern technology - I hope you aren't one of them!!

Pete

ps. I'm actually quite shocked that a top Engine Designer would need to ask engine questions like this though?? :- http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=421855

Oh, Dear ..... looks like you needed help to put an engine back together?? :- http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=418546

Who were you consultant to?? Matchbox or Dinky??!! Classic!!

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

Sorry Pete, just been out to find a 5 year old and guess what? He says that you're right!!!

I'll have to remember in future, not to question somebody who's so in touch with their juvenile side

GErry

pslewis

At last!!

Recognition of my superior intelligence

So? I take it you will now become a MAN and cease being an **** Old Woman??

Pete

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that 5 year old thought you were pretty astute. Wants to know if you'd like to stop wasting your talents on S/Net and join his gang.

No, I'll stick to ****, helps to recognise an ar$e 'ole when I meet one

Gerry

pslewis

Is that with your boyfriend??

Pete

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

pslewis

Pete

pauld37

Well found that man

p1mark

pmsl

i certainly have not claimed to be a top engine designer, and certainly not a scooby engine designer.

and where you are coming from to get 'thanks to RCM and Bob' to 'needing help to build an engine' is a tenous link for sure.

nice try though, and very amusing. keep it up!

pslewis

Glad you took it in the spirit it was meant

What CAD System are you using, I am genuinely interested as we are heavily into Model Based Engineering at the moment ...... and our CAD boys know everyone who is anyone in the 'Cutting Edge' Design Engineering Area.

You have been a consultant to Motosport Teams, you MUST be a high profile Engine Designer - which teams were these? FORD? SUBARU? MITSI? PEUGEOT?

Pete

p1mark

you crack me up!

if you must know,

the cad system we use is pro-engineer 2001. if you can be arsed to trail through my posts for the purpose of abuse, then im sure you can do it again if you are that interested in me to find out where i currently work.

instead of stalking, why not come round for sunday lunch and a bottle of wine though you big homo bunny boiler.

it would be very unproffesional of me to mention people who i have in the past done work for as im sure you will understand.

anyway,this is well off topic, and nothing changes the fact that you should not give advice against good practices (oil priming / cleanliness etc.) because these things can only do good, not harm!

pslewis

You stated that you knew what you were talking about ..... because you have been a consultant to Motorsport Teams and are an Engine Designer.

The Engine Designers I know are using Unigraphics, you say you work for Triumph Engines .......... not sure if thats designing NEW Engines? On the cutting edge or 30 years behind the curve?

You indicate that you know more about car engines than I do, and that my advice is dangerous?? I would suggest that you are talking out of that area that should be kept in your undies!!

I take it these Motorsport Teams you have been a consultant to are, what??

Billy Smiths Racing?? (with his Triumph Herald?)

FPMSL

I think its YOU who should NOT be giving advice on modern engines .... I, on the other hand, am right there at the cutting edge, ok?

I bet you still think you need to grease your grease nipples??

Modern Engines will get the Oil Pressure up in no time at all - a few seconds!! And the Oil Film will NOT break up on the main or big-end bearings!!

Its dangerous to scare poor souls who know nothing about engineering!!

All I do know is that cranking an engine without a spark means neat petrol is getting into the CAT and is stripping the oil off the bores!!

MORE damage is done by removing the crank sensor than leaving the thing on and firing up AS SUBARU TELL YOU TO DO!!

Pete

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

Blimey Pete, your getting worse, how deep a hole are you going to dig?

If your so up on everything engine & automotive wise, you'd know that disconnecting the crank sensor cuts the spark AND fuelling, so no bore wash or other cat-astrophe.

Plus if your so fekkin' clever, what's all this about? Dipstick

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=433834

Gerry

pslewis

FACT - Subaru say that there is NO need whatsoever to disconnect anything following an Oil Change ............................. my opinion has the backing of the whole of Fuji Heavy Industries (Established on 15th July 1953) behind it - the ***** only have a bunch of geeks with B.O. (Established in a dark corner of a Real Ale Pub in September 1992) to back-up their opinions

Pete

p1mark

dear oh dear oh dear.

you must be worked up to go hunting for where i work

it really is not worth getting your back up about and to be frank your argument holds no water. oil priming wherever possible is good practice, even if the lord above says its not required.

with a bit of luck someone who knows about bikes will come along to correct you about the products and facility i am involved with but im not gonna waste my breath. suffice to say i hereby cordially invite you to take a tour round the place with me (seriously) and maybe you may think differently. do this and i will even give you the pleasure of finding out people i have worked for in the past.

i am so glad the humour in your posts indicates you do not take yourself fully seriously, an *** with personality is eminently more entertaining than an ***.

see you soon pete hopefully.
lets not carry this on here anyway. think this thread is slightly out of context now!!!!

pslewis

Back on topic then ................. and its the ***** second favourite topic - the MAF Sensor.

These have a nasty habit of drifting out of tolerance and blowing up your engine .... or so they would have you believe!!

Pete

Eprom

It's the crank sensor, it's not just subaru engines you should have mechanical sympathy with, I used to build pinto engines, and every oil change I used to disconnect the ignition coil to let the oil pressure build before allowing it to fire up.

I have a MY99 totally standard apart from PPP added 20k miles ago, now at 70k with standard intake, my MAF failed at 32k only found this out when I replaced the superb ICE unit that the car came with, had the battery disconnected for about 3 hours, when connected back up car started fine ran OK but would stall and hunt at idle on occasion’s but not all the time. Took it to a subaru garage they said they could find nothing wrong on select monitor, but I instructed them to change the MAF fault cured.
Without the help of this site I could have been looking at a new engine.
I would take note of the people in the know, you will know who they are, there is a lot of **** stuff, but there's also good advice.

nsld

My MAF went, no CEL light came on, it just kept stalling, smelling v rich and hanging back a bit when I put the boot in, I changed it at 114,000 Miles and its done another 1k since with no probs.

What did bring the CEL on was not reconnecting it when I changed it!

The ECU patently doesnt detect that the MAF value is false, it simply makes adjustments to keep the engine running (if it can).

As for the MAF fading, its a passive electrical sensor and like all electrical devices it will over time break down and its performance will change, thats the nature of metals. Not sure of how the MAF actually senses, but I suspect its uses resistivity of the material and that changes as the material degrades.

vindaloo

ROFL.

Though seriously, maybe there's a niche for a MAF-link product....

J.

pslewis

Define 'over time' please ................. 20 years, 50?? 100?? 1000??

PMSL I have a 1960's transister radio here that would take issue with your sweeping statement!! Mind you, its not picking up Radio Luxemburg llike it used to

Oh, bugger, my tansistor radio has broken down due to the passing years

What tosh is garbled on here!

Pete

Houghton

iTrader: (1)

Showing your age now Pete Not just a sad git but a sad old git. That explains why your brake pads last 59,000 miles and still don't need replacing Maybe your hearing's on the blink so you don't hear the scraping noise

pslewis: aka Coffin Dodger

pslewis

Go easy, it's my 77th Birthday today!!

I am getting a bit concerned over the brake pads actually, I am now approaching 60,000miles ...... even I can see thats a good distance on a car like this - but, it shows what can be done when you drive sensibly!

Pete

ClassicBlueMica

Sw3opped my MAF on a MY99 after it ran **** poor. New MAF was significantly different to the old one so I guess they have been re engineered.

Wasnt getting a CEL either..New MAF = New Car performance.

If I bought anouther 99/00 i would thinkl 70 quid was well spent, as in the very least the 7 year old one i removed was covered in ****e, which must impede its accuracy.
BTW, does this PSLewis geezer suffer from constipation? Take a **** and relax dude

nsld

Assuming the MAF uses changes in the resistivity of the small wire that is visible in the end then over time with temperature changes (summer,winter) the material will break down. The fact that it has a very small cross sectional surface area means that any change in resistivity will be achieved by a small change in that area. You heat a metal and it will lose surface atoms, heat it enough it will melt, heat it and cool it and you will change its internal matrix. Its all basic metallurgy really.

Transistors are switches which is why they have three legs. I have a rechageable black and decker drill, the battery charger went up in smoke when one of the passive electrical components died so your radio example is fairly meaningless when it comes to longevity. The drill is about 5 years old

I note you havent responded to my comment about the ECU managing the changing MAF signal or the lack of a CEL light.

It appears that my sweeping statement was that corrision exists and that things will break down over time. Please let me know if you have never had an electrical item die on you, and what your anti corrosion secrets are.

pslewis

I 'think' you'll find that the MY99 and MY00 Impreza MAFs use thick film technology - I may be wrong, but I think I'm right?

No heated wire there then, it's a resistive-temperature device(RTD) and the resistor technologies employed in these temperature sensing devices are either platinum films or proprietary nickel thin film materials.

Pete

MikeWood

Think I may regret doing this but here goes......

In my experience it is very easy to contaminate the MAF sensor on 99/00MY cars and eventually this will lead to the car running out of 'tolerance'. In some cases this is no more than uneven running, on some cars you get a small amount more performance if the deterioration is gradual but this effect may also lead to premature engine failure. This failure can be from various symptoms including burnt pistons, bearing failure or rod failure but the cause is almost exclusively det caused by contamination of the MAF sensor.

One possible cause of this contamination is oil in the breather system, a easy way to get this is overfill it with oil and then use high rpm and/or high cornering loads. Another way would be contaminants that have come from or through a non standard airfilter.

One suggestion is to treat the MAF sensor as a service item and replace it at the same time as the filter, particularly at the 60000 mile service.

On the subject of making sure that an engine has oil pressure before it starts for the first time after an oil change. We do it on our engines.......

Mike