WRX300MAN

Sorry Dudes . .Are you not missing the point . . .Point Being that though it does matter what oil you use, its more important to change it frequesntly, if not more frequent . . . . .I Chnged mine at 5 thou, rather than the manufacturer 10,000 service interval . .10w40Semi, as the manufacturer said . . .Semi . . Esso . .

Engine protected . . Hammer away!!

pslewis

Remember the vote when you were outvoted by a factor of 7 to 1??

I suggest you go find a saddo, loser site to post on

Pete

pslewis

Well said and quite correct ..............

Oil change frequency is the most important thing .... fully synthetics market themselves on the longer oil change intervals possible - I would rather change my oil for Semi every 6 months than put expensive stuff in and risk stretching it to 12 months or longer!

Pete

WRX300MAN

Also, just to add . . .Its a good idea to steer clear of Oil Additives and especially engine flush . .

justanotherperson

pslewis, im an engineer, have been in the areospace industry for 20 years and it doesn't take a scientist to understand firstly-you're a "troll" and secondly-you know nothing about oil.

Basicaly you will find that while you engine will be fine at the moment,as the heat breaks down the molcular structure of the oil,small amounts of damage will be done,no two ways about it.
The better(more expensive oils to you) will not break down so quickly or will take more heat before they start to break down.

The fact that you change your oil every 6 months might be your ONLY saving grace.

I actually think you're just a tight ****.

PS:Tell us when the rebuild is happening,although i doubt it very much you will.

WRX300MAN

That's interesting what yr saying, an d ofcourse no matter what oil you use, its best if its reasonably budgeted . . But am I right in thinking that a 5w40 is a little too thin for a turboharged engine . . .

davedipster

I find that using the best oil I can buy-cheers oilman-and changing it every 10k/12months does me.

Dipster

Trout

iTrader: (1)

Question for Pete who is a Chartered Chemical Engineer and self-proclaimed expert on whether an oil is good enough for filling a Subaru with.

If all 5-40w are suitable effectively the same - why is it that Motul (the one that is too expensive) is the only one that does not vapourise when the going gets tough, i.e. a hard drive, track time on a driver development day.

It is reported by a number of drivers here who utilise oil catch cans - then when using anything other than Motul the crank breathers will spit out so much oil vapour that the can will fill up very quickly.

This is not true with Motul.

As you are an expert I am sure you can easily explain this.

Personally I would prefer to use an oil in my high performance car that does not start to 'boil' as soon as I press the loud pedal in earnest. To much oil vapour in the inlet can cause det which is a very bad thing and probably the single biggest reason that Subaru engines fail.


PS This reminds me of the argument once presented by a hugely qualified electrical engineer who said that it was impossible for two hi fi amplifiers of the same power rating to sound different - not that he had ever tried listening to anything other than his cheap 'Binatone' rubbish.

N*UFO

I'm a bit bored with all these wanna be experts on oil!
In the nuclear industry we depend on backup systems to supply power,cooling water,fire fighting water in an emergency,99% of these backup systems are engine driven, from small petrol engines to huge diesel engines you would normally find on ships.....
These engines have to work on demand for as long as they are needed, they are maintained to the highest standard,All the oil is checked by our chemistry department before it is used,All the oils, cheap or expensive offer the protection they state,In nearly 30 years of testing not one oil has failed to meet this standard.
Just as a side note, we had some pumps with Mercedes truck engines driving them installed a few years ago, The engineer in charge of this plant decided like some of you that They should have the best oil (mercedes own 15w40 at about £12 a litre).That however didnt last long when these things take about 35 litres every six months,now we get the oil from a local supplier At £2 a litre, and guess what,it is just as good as the mercedes.......Proven (just ask the NII(Nuclear Installations Inspectorate)
I'm gonna go stick my head in a hole now

justanotherperson

No one forces you to type or read if you dont feel you want to,


I have just pulled this from a pdf file that have on servicing of Subaru,

NOTE:
If the vehicle is used in areas with very high temper-
atures or for other heavy duty applications, the fol-
lowing viscosity oils may be used: APIclassification: SL or SJ or SH
SAE Viscosity No.: 30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50

If it helps people on their thourghts of too thin/too thick

pslewis

I take it you meant 'thoughts'??

20 years as an Engineer are you? Hmmmmmm, and what is your Degree in then and could I have your Chartered Registration Number please?

Thank you, awaiting above info with anticipation.

Pete

justanotherperson

yes 20 years pslewis, and no you cant have my Chartered Registration Number,why would i even think of giving you information like that,

Go away Mr Troll

cat7

your car is more likely to expire through use rather then the oil you put in it. In other words if you do lots of track days with sticky tyres unless you have anti-cav fuel tank and dry sump you'll be stuffed, dosen't matter which great oil you put in, if theres none there at the top of te engine during along hairpin it will all go terribly wrong anyway. Just buy the correct grade and standard as per manufacturer and you've done your bit and drive with some mechanical sympathy. Even better if your worried about the stresses of the track then just don't do it!!

pslewis

I thought so ................. NOT a Chartered Engineer and NOT holding a Degree - I rest my case ....

Game, Set and Match I thnk

Pete

justanotherperson

Dont bring this discussion down to your level lewis,we all know you are an internet troll go and ruin someone elses forum.

Im in between cooking dinner for my family hence the typo,i think make game,set and nothing actually so
I wont give out personal information about my self to you or anyone,what qualifications do you have except for being a pain in the *** none i would think.

pslewis

You claimed to be an Engineer then won't answer the simple question of what your degree is in

So it's up to you to put up or shut up ....... I suggest you carry out the latter

Pete

flynnstudio

I just love these oil threads...

justanotherperson

So back to the oil discussion.......

Cat7 you have a point,but when the turbo is spining at close to 100,000rpm (on full chat)at heat that i cant remember,to have a better grade of oil circulating would be better than a lower grade.

Lets say you have cheap and nasty oil running around the engine and you're just about to go in to a hairpin,the oil is starved for a split second,the oil loses its properties because of the heat thats built up on that long uphill run,the oil could,could at worst vapourise,remember there is only a very thin layer running around that shaft in the turbo,if you had a better grade of oil there would be a less chance of the oil breaking down/vapourising how ever you look at it.
*vapourising is used as a general term and might never happen.

justanotherperson

this will be the last post i give to you Mr lewis as i will not allow myself to your level.
I will not shut up not for you certainly.

I was told once by someone,
to never argue with an idiot,they will bring you down to their level and then beat you with expirience.

And in your case i think they would be right.

Bubba po

LOL. Nearly as famous as Lewis.

justanotherperson

some temperatures in different parts of the engine for you to look at(typicaly, and not a turbocharged engine),all in Fahrenheit

Upper Cylinder Wall 300-500
Exhaust Valve 1200-1500
Piston Crown 700-800
Hydraulic Valve Lifter 250-300
Crankcase 200-300
Top Piston Ring 300-650
Exhaust Gases 500-1000
Combustion Chamber 3000-5000
Coolant Jacket 165-230
Connecting Rod Bearings 200-375
Main Bearings 200-350

M1BJR

Im an engineer in the nuke industry too, and so is my other half, isn't it a small world eh?!

However, as most of the plant we play with was designed in the seventies or earlier I doubt there is much requirement for hi-tech lubricants at this stage
One point to note though, stretching the viscosity band of any oil will cause a certain degree of compromise. Synthetics were only invented to enable wider ranges such as 5W-50. Multigrade dino oils are easier to break down under pressure when engineered to cover wide viscosity ranges. It doesn't necessarily follow that these (syth)will provide superior lubrication. There are an enormous amount of other factors to consider. Snake oil is one of them..
Unless you are operating outside of the original spec of the engine, either with extremes of temperature, servicing duration or worn internals - then I cannot see any advantage in over priced synthetics. Save them for the track. Synthetics can have extended service life, meaning less frequent changes in a clean engine but this is the only real benefit to most of us.

pauld37

Another cracker

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Oh just sod it and use Castor oil - best oil for protection under extreme heavy loads.

I amazed no one has even mentioned it yet LOL. Ok, it'll varish and gum up worse than a mineral oil...Just a minor sacrifice for bearing protection for all you wannabe racers running on pure moonshine

M1BJR

That depends upon the temperatures you are operating the engine at.
Viscosity index is an indication of how thick/thin the oil will be at each end of the temperature spectrum. As said before, if your oil temperature is regulated correctly (no reason why it shouldn't be) then you should be well within the manufacturers recommended specification for it's listed oil (obviously).
The API is a performance index and a rough guide to it's quality. If your oil meets these two (above) criteria set by the manufacturer, then the engine should perform, and last, as originally designed. Simple.

As for oil change frequency, again there is MUCH more to the debate. The oil will break down eventually, and there are many factors that will cause this. However you MUST factor in the condition and age of the engine, how it is operated and even the fuel used and environmental conditions. Frequent cold starting and cooling cause condensation inside the engine. Combustion products are acidic and can corrode the internals - they always contaminate the oil eventually, as does the fuel to a degree. All of these affect longevity irrespective of how much you paid. If your rings are shot then Mobil1 won't save it, nor can it reverse any damage already caused.
Careful operation, warm up and cooling down, combined with as few cold starts as possible with do more for your engine then ANY expensive oil products, period.


Whilst I can accept advances in lubricant technology, the gains are only realised on the periphery of operation. Most of us (race boys excepted) will never see the benefits I'm sure.

M1BJR

And don't forget the Rolls Royce Olympus gas turbines. Standstill to full bore and loaded on the bars in about half a minute or so? Awesome. Funny enough there isn't any Mobil1 in those lube oil tanks either, original spec Shell IIRC

Steve HPB.

pslewis

Seems that ScoobyNet is finally being populated by proper Engineers with proper common sense ........... thank god!

Fully synthetic is overkill .............

Do use it if it makes you sleep better .... but do NOT tell us Engineers that what we use (and what Subaru recommend) is rubbish!!

Pete

pslewis

Did they REALLY say expirience? or was it experience?

You are no more an Engineer than Mary Poppins

Now, do as I said and shut up!! You are way, way, out of your league here - move along now .... nothing for you to understand here ......

What a prize wally!!

Pete

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Funny....judging so far....I bet none of these alleged "engineers" have rebuilt a car engine. 95% Probably don't even know how to change a cambelt.

So what does their qualifications have to do with car mechanics?



ALi-B BEng(hon.)

pslewis

Building an Engine???? DONE MANY!!!

We are talking the wisdom of Oil choice - NOTHING to do with Engine rebuilds!

Pete