Magnatec oil - any good?
13 February 2006, 11:49 PM
#31
Forget the brand "magnetic" marketing bull crap. Pretty much all oils clings to surfaces by design - its something to do with the pao/mineral/ester additives (ask oilman, I can't remember which one is the polar-charged one 
)
Bottom line: Semi-synthetic, good performing for a basic oil. Fine for use on standard engines (inlcding turbos) with standard service intervals that do not see any hard use (i.e short journeys, hard driving, fast motorway, trackdays or towing etc).
Any harsh usage conditions (such as those listed) will require more frequent changes, or higher perfomance oil.
)Bottom line: Semi-synthetic, good performing for a basic oil. Fine for use on standard engines (inlcding turbos) with standard service intervals that do not see any hard use (i.e short journeys, hard driving, fast motorway, trackdays or towing etc).
Any harsh usage conditions (such as those listed) will require more frequent changes, or higher perfomance oil.
14 February 2006, 02:09 PM
#32
[quote=ALi-B]Forget the brand "magnetic" marketing bull crap. Pretty much all oils clings to surfaces by design - its something to do with the pao/mineral/ester additives (ask oilman, I can't remember which one is the polar-charged one )
We are talking about the oil known as 'Magnatec', nothing to do with 'Magnetic oil' theres no such thing, someone cracked a joke earlier in the post about magnetic oil just to be funny, it dont exist.
Magnatec is known for its ability to be attracted to metal surfaces forming a coating or bond, this is more so than other oils even if other oils do posess similar properties.
Bottom line; Motul or Silkoline are the best you can buy for the classic
)We are talking about the oil known as 'Magnatec', nothing to do with 'Magnetic oil' theres no such thing, someone cracked a joke earlier in the post about magnetic oil just to be funny, it dont exist.
Magnatec is known for its ability to be attracted to metal surfaces forming a coating or bond, this is more so than other oils even if other oils do posess similar properties.
Bottom line; Motul or Silkoline are the best you can buy for the classic
14 February 2006, 02:14 PM
#33
Only if you warrant the need for it 
Note on "Magnetic" as in Magnatecs marketing bull crap...it is polar attraction like any other oil...look it up, ester oils do it as do certain other additives, please re-read the post
Note on "Magnetic" as in Magnatecs marketing bull crap...it is polar attraction like any other oil...look it up, ester oils do it as do certain other additives, please re-read the post
Last edited by ALi-B; 14 February 2006 at 02:29 PM.
14 February 2006, 02:45 PM
#35
Quote from the actual Castrol website=
"magnatec gets to work straight away by virtue of a unique synthetic ester that clings to the engine like a magnet - this "Unique Molecular Attraction" provides up to 4 times more protection than a conventional oil during the critical start and warm up period"
Many people believe that the oil is magnetic and thats how it clings to internal componets but this view is wrong.
People are reading the above statement that states it 'Clings to the engine like a Magnet' and misinterpret the oil as being magnetic.
Instead the unique synthetic ester clings to the componets it is not attracted via any form of magnetism.
Plus not all engine componets are steel meaning that if the oil were magnetic all the crucial aluminium parts in the engine would not be protected making the magnetic theory useless.
"magnatec gets to work straight away by virtue of a unique synthetic ester that clings to the engine like a magnet - this "Unique Molecular Attraction" provides up to 4 times more protection than a conventional oil during the critical start and warm up period"
Many people believe that the oil is magnetic and thats how it clings to internal componets but this view is wrong.
People are reading the above statement that states it 'Clings to the engine like a Magnet' and misinterpret the oil as being magnetic.
Instead the unique synthetic ester clings to the componets it is not attracted via any form of magnetism.
Plus not all engine componets are steel meaning that if the oil were magnetic all the crucial aluminium parts in the engine would not be protected making the magnetic theory useless.
Last edited by Dave M UK; 14 February 2006 at 02:48 PM.
14 February 2006, 03:16 PM
#37
Polar attraction (as noted, yet seemingly ignored in my first post on this thread)......
Think of magnetic as a smilie to describe its properties of the substance using polar attrraction to the likeness of magnetism
"like a magnet"...A simile used to create better of understanding. From a grammatical and laymans point of view is correct. But incorrect from a physics and chemists terminology
English vs. Science. Oh what fun
Think of magnetic as a smilie to describe its properties of the substance using polar attrraction to the likeness of magnetism
"like a magnet"...A simile used to create better of understanding. From a grammatical and laymans point of view is correct. But incorrect from a physics and chemists terminology
English vs. Science. Oh what fun
14 February 2006, 03:55 PM
#38
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Bottom line: Semi-synthetic, good performing for a basic oil. Fine for use on standard engines (inlcding turbos) with standard service intervals that do not see any hard use (i.e short journeys, hard driving, fast motorway, trackdays or towing etc).
Any harsh usage conditions (such as those listed) will require more frequent changes, or higher perfomance oil.
Any harsh usage conditions (such as those listed) will require more frequent changes, or higher perfomance oil.
Tony.
14 February 2006, 04:13 PM
#39
I think what he means is that by taking lots of short journeys the engine never gets time to warm up and lubracate fully, if you do a short journey you may find that by the time its over and the engine is turned off it never had time to warm up meaning if you do many short journeys the internal componets never get fully lubracated which as you can imagine will cause excess wear.
Also, constant heating up and cooling down of an engine caused by frequent short journeys causes problems as the componets expand then contract which puts strain on them and may lead to metal fatigue and brital components.
Also, constant heating up and cooling down of an engine caused by frequent short journeys causes problems as the componets expand then contract which puts strain on them and may lead to metal fatigue and brital components.
14 February 2006, 04:15 PM
#40
Its not to do with lubrication, it is contamination of oil. Lubrication starts as soon as the engine engine runs (at a rate of gallons a minute ). A contaminted oil affects its lubricatction abilities.
Short journeys as in cold starts where the engine is not ran long enough to reach and maintain a satisfactory operating temperature. This causes the build up of condensation and combustion-by products that do not get boiled off as oil does not reach a hot enough temperature.
This puts greater demand on the oil, which will need to maintain its lubricating propeties when diluted with fuel, moisture and other chemical contaminents, and also will need a better detergent package to counteract formation of acids, sludge and also needs better anti-foaming agents.
Lesser oils, obviously aren't as good at coping with this and thus need more regular changing intervals.
). A contaminted oil affects its lubricatction abilities.Short journeys as in cold starts where the engine is not ran long enough to reach and maintain a satisfactory operating temperature. This causes the build up of condensation and combustion-by products that do not get boiled off as oil does not reach a hot enough temperature.
This puts greater demand on the oil, which will need to maintain its lubricating propeties when diluted with fuel, moisture and other chemical contaminents, and also will need a better detergent package to counteract formation of acids, sludge and also needs better anti-foaming agents.
Lesser oils, obviously aren't as good at coping with this and thus need more regular changing intervals.
14 February 2006, 04:20 PM
#42
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i topped mine up by spraying some WD40 down the hole, as it has teflon in it and somebody told me it would make the pistons less slippy
i have not tested this on the drag strip yet
i have not tested this on the drag strip yet
16 February 2006, 04:53 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by Dave M UK
Magnatec oil is marketed to be the only oil that sticks or clings to the internal engine components, by doing this it is suggested that less wear will occur on start up as any other oil will take a few minutes to circulate and lubracate the components, magnatec as it clings to the components is already there ready to lubracate the moment you turn the key.
This is a good idea in theory but when the oil becomes degraded in time and you perform an oil change all the sludge and crap that has built up will still be sticking to the components so that when the new oil goes in these impurities will begin to circulate around the engine again, if the engine is not flushed then magnatec will continue to stick to the componets causing more and more build up as the stickyness prevents the impurities flowing out through the sump and into your drip tray as you drain the system.
I feel you would be better off with a Silkoline Pro or a Motul oil around 10-40 or as close as you can get,
Dave m
This is a good idea in theory but when the oil becomes degraded in time and you perform an oil change all the sludge and crap that has built up will still be sticking to the components so that when the new oil goes in these impurities will begin to circulate around the engine again, if the engine is not flushed then magnatec will continue to stick to the componets causing more and more build up as the stickyness prevents the impurities flowing out through the sump and into your drip tray as you drain the system.
I feel you would be better off with a Silkoline Pro or a Motul oil around 10-40 or as close as you can get,
Dave m
16 February 2006, 08:51 PM
#47
Originally Posted by messiah
As someone whos approaching a service is planning swapping from the dealer supplied Magnatec to Motul - whats the best way to flush the old oil out before the change? Is it as simple as buying one of those engine flush bottles out of halfords and running with it in prior to the oil change?
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