Anyone had a 2.5 off axis???
23 February 2006 | 10:27 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Playsatan
The blocks are out there. I've forwarded Ron the details where I got mine from if anyones interested,
Looking good!
24 February 2006 | 04:52 PM
#40
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From: Api 500+bhp MD321T @91dB Probably SN's longest owner of an Impreza Turbo
sti 2.5 shortblock with forged cp pistons is ~£1600 delivered to uk with a limited to no guarantee.
UK supplied sti 2.5 shortblock with forged cp pistons is ~£1900-2000 with parts guarantee.
UK supplied sti 2.5 shortblock with forged cp pistons is ~£1900-2000 with parts guarantee.
24 February 2006 | 05:58 PM
#43
You don't have to replace the oil pump but I did with a modded RCM one, another one of those "might as well while I'm at it" mods.
It's not in with the price but I found out afterwards that Axis also supply oil and water pumps for much cheapness too. Damm.
It's not in with the price but I found out afterwards that Axis also supply oil and water pumps for much cheapness too. Damm.
That seems a touch petty
24 February 2006 | 07:10 PM
#50
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From: Api 500+bhp MD321T @91dB Probably SN's longest owner of an Impreza Turbo
Originally Posted by 911
would that warrantee vanish as soon as any track day/competition activity occures?
£400 would by the RCM oil pump and a few other bits.
Graham.
£400 would by the RCM oil pump and a few other bits.
Graham.
warranty is on mileage and I was open about my usage of the finished engine/ upgrade
Andy
24 February 2006 | 07:28 PM
#52
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From: Cheshire
I'm quite happy ordering from Ron at Axis... it may save me a few £££... which i'm happy about... but also its his rep he seems to have...
From what people have posted on here, his work seems to be spot on... which is good enough for me...
Also, while i'm waiting for the block to be built, my bank balance can start to recover...
Mines been off the road since sept 05... another month ain't gonna matter to me...
It's reliabilty i'm after.... I want it right first time... and I think the 2.3 is gonna be the best route to take...
If the prices work out to much... then a stage 3 2.5 will be next best thing...
From what people have posted on here, his work seems to be spot on... which is good enough for me...
Also, while i'm waiting for the block to be built, my bank balance can start to recover...
Mines been off the road since sept 05... another month ain't gonna matter to me...
It's reliabilty i'm after.... I want it right first time... and I think the 2.3 is gonna be the best route to take...
If the prices work out to much... then a stage 3 2.5 will be next best thing...
25 February 2006 | 12:33 AM
#54
That's a shame.
I thought Ron's post was very positive and no advertising, certainly no worse than many on here that don't advertise with Scoobynet.
Anyway, instead some pictures of the of an engine from a tuner in the States.
More detail on request
Mark A
I thought Ron's post was very positive and no advertising, certainly no worse than many on here that don't advertise with Scoobynet.
Anyway, instead some pictures of the of an engine from a tuner in the States.
More detail on request
Mark A
25 February 2006 | 02:00 AM
#55
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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
I had an email which I thought may clear up some queries:
"As for the stage 4 blocks, unless you are prepared to find your own brand new ej22t shortblock to start with, you can pretty much count that block out. Subaru discontinued that block over here several months ago and I just don't want to have to chase them down. There are still some floating about,but they tend to be somewhat expensive and can end up being one that has sat on the shelf for months or even years.
I know it's a superb block to start with, but the ej257 isn't all that bad considering if you know what to do with them.
Next, I guess I just need to know when someone from the UK or Europe says they want 500 bhp, do they want 500 crank hp, or 500 hp to the tires? If it's 500 crank hp, well that's somewhat easily obtainable and for fairly low money. But if it's 500 wheel hp, well then things change considerably. The magic number for stock cased Subaru engines seems to be around 425-450 wheel hp. Once you start to exceed this power level, you really need to be looking at a sleeved block. The stock Subaru case, unless it's a fully closed deck block, just can't take the abuse for long periods. Yes, you can make the power, but for how long? There is no set usage/mileage to state for this.
Now for you guys looking to do 500+ wheel hp and have it live longer than 10 minutes. Be prepared to spend lots of money for supporting mods to achieve this. 500 wheel hp equates to about 600 crank hp, and you are quickly approaching Formula 1 hp levels, out of a 4cyl engine, and one that certainly was not intended for that type of use by Subaru. For what you would pay for a stage 5 block, Formula 1 teams couldn't even buy the cranks for their engines.
Just ask the guys you know who run fast. I bet Andy has the equivalent of a summer cottage under his hood and I know he wants to go faster, who doesn't?
Shipping to the UK. I only ship via air freight. This usually takes 3-5 business days from completion of build and I ship fully insured. I ship only using Subaru containers, as they are rated for the intended weight and if there is any damage, the shipping company can not blame the packaging.
Timeframe for buildup. This varies. I think Colin's engine was sent faily quickly compared to normal build times. I usually allow myself 3-4 weeks to do a buildup of a non-sleeved block as to give myself some breathing room for any unseen complications. As Colin stated, we had some minor snags, but it all came together in a timely manner. The major snag was my crank machinist caught the flu and missed a full week of work.
Warranty. I know EVERYONE is waiting for this. I don't offer a warranty. What I do offer is this. If the engine fails, I ask you to send it back to me the same way you received it, in it's original packaging, and with the spark plugs included. If after I receive the engine, and the teardown inspection directs fault at anything I did with the block, machining, assembly, parts malfunction, ect. I will either repair or replace the block at no charge to you including shipping both ways. But if the inspection shows fault to be improper final assembly(timing belt on out of time, startup without oil 'this has happened once or twice'), or any other action that is fully out of my control like bad tuning or running poor fuel with 25psi boost or trying to get 10,000 miles between oil changes, I will not and can not rebuild or replace the shortblock at my cost. And believe me, I've seen it all.
I know it's a lot to read, but I just wanted to let everyone know who I am and what they can expect from me. Those who have purchased from me, I think have had a positive experience and for the most part are happy with their purchase. If you search hard enough, you might find a bad thing or two said about me, but it's usually not from a customer and to me, the customer's opinion is all that matters.
Cheers and thanks for the time,
Ron"
"As for the stage 4 blocks, unless you are prepared to find your own brand new ej22t shortblock to start with, you can pretty much count that block out. Subaru discontinued that block over here several months ago and I just don't want to have to chase them down. There are still some floating about,but they tend to be somewhat expensive and can end up being one that has sat on the shelf for months or even years.
I know it's a superb block to start with, but the ej257 isn't all that bad considering if you know what to do with them.
Next, I guess I just need to know when someone from the UK or Europe says they want 500 bhp, do they want 500 crank hp, or 500 hp to the tires? If it's 500 crank hp, well that's somewhat easily obtainable and for fairly low money. But if it's 500 wheel hp, well then things change considerably. The magic number for stock cased Subaru engines seems to be around 425-450 wheel hp. Once you start to exceed this power level, you really need to be looking at a sleeved block. The stock Subaru case, unless it's a fully closed deck block, just can't take the abuse for long periods. Yes, you can make the power, but for how long? There is no set usage/mileage to state for this.
Now for you guys looking to do 500+ wheel hp and have it live longer than 10 minutes. Be prepared to spend lots of money for supporting mods to achieve this. 500 wheel hp equates to about 600 crank hp, and you are quickly approaching Formula 1 hp levels, out of a 4cyl engine, and one that certainly was not intended for that type of use by Subaru. For what you would pay for a stage 5 block, Formula 1 teams couldn't even buy the cranks for their engines.
Just ask the guys you know who run fast. I bet Andy has the equivalent of a summer cottage under his hood and I know he wants to go faster, who doesn't?
Shipping to the UK. I only ship via air freight. This usually takes 3-5 business days from completion of build and I ship fully insured. I ship only using Subaru containers, as they are rated for the intended weight and if there is any damage, the shipping company can not blame the packaging.
Timeframe for buildup. This varies. I think Colin's engine was sent faily quickly compared to normal build times. I usually allow myself 3-4 weeks to do a buildup of a non-sleeved block as to give myself some breathing room for any unseen complications. As Colin stated, we had some minor snags, but it all came together in a timely manner. The major snag was my crank machinist caught the flu and missed a full week of work.
Warranty. I know EVERYONE is waiting for this. I don't offer a warranty. What I do offer is this. If the engine fails, I ask you to send it back to me the same way you received it, in it's original packaging, and with the spark plugs included. If after I receive the engine, and the teardown inspection directs fault at anything I did with the block, machining, assembly, parts malfunction, ect. I will either repair or replace the block at no charge to you including shipping both ways. But if the inspection shows fault to be improper final assembly(timing belt on out of time, startup without oil 'this has happened once or twice'), or any other action that is fully out of my control like bad tuning or running poor fuel with 25psi boost or trying to get 10,000 miles between oil changes, I will not and can not rebuild or replace the shortblock at my cost. And believe me, I've seen it all.
I know it's a lot to read, but I just wanted to let everyone know who I am and what they can expect from me. Those who have purchased from me, I think have had a positive experience and for the most part are happy with their purchase. If you search hard enough, you might find a bad thing or two said about me, but it's usually not from a customer and to me, the customer's opinion is all that matters.
Cheers and thanks for the time,
Ron"
25 February 2006 | 04:35 AM
#56
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Mark,
You're killing me with the crank pic. Now everyone knows the secret to keeping the 2.5 alive at higher rpms. Well, those that know what to look for anyway! No worrries though.
Since the cat, or crank, is out of the bag I'll explain what I do to the cranks. Instead of doing a dual cross drilling like one or two other builders do, I drill only 1 extra hole in each journal. On the main journals, this hole lines up with the feed hole in the main bearings. The holes are placed in such a way that when they actually line up, the rod for which that hole feeds is approximately 25-40deg before tdc. This allows for full positive oiling immediately before the rod and bearing reach its maximum stress point.
I learned this trick from a guy over here that builds motorcycle race engines that turn 17000+rpms so I was pretty sure it would work, and it did. You can really feel the smoothness of the engine and they just love to rev. And this is why you should run the modded oil pump, to provide the extra pressure/volume that is needed. I do have modified oil pumps, but they are not as modified as RCM's pumps. I only install 2 extra shims into the pump to up the pressure slightly. The pumps I start with are from the early ej22t engines, which have slightly larger oil galleys and piston oil squirters so those pumps are already higher volume from Subaru. But if you use a new STI pump, I don't forsee any problems unless you start to see a pressure drop at higher rpms. If you can still get the 22B pumps, I believe those are also higher volume/pressure but am not certain since I have not personally seen one of those pumps.
Thanks for putting back up my large post. I think it will help to explain a couple things that I see asked in most every email.
Thanks again,
Ron
You're killing me with the crank pic. Now everyone knows the secret to keeping the 2.5 alive at higher rpms. Well, those that know what to look for anyway! No worrries though.
Since the cat, or crank, is out of the bag I'll explain what I do to the cranks. Instead of doing a dual cross drilling like one or two other builders do, I drill only 1 extra hole in each journal. On the main journals, this hole lines up with the feed hole in the main bearings. The holes are placed in such a way that when they actually line up, the rod for which that hole feeds is approximately 25-40deg before tdc. This allows for full positive oiling immediately before the rod and bearing reach its maximum stress point.
I learned this trick from a guy over here that builds motorcycle race engines that turn 17000+rpms so I was pretty sure it would work, and it did. You can really feel the smoothness of the engine and they just love to rev. And this is why you should run the modded oil pump, to provide the extra pressure/volume that is needed. I do have modified oil pumps, but they are not as modified as RCM's pumps. I only install 2 extra shims into the pump to up the pressure slightly. The pumps I start with are from the early ej22t engines, which have slightly larger oil galleys and piston oil squirters so those pumps are already higher volume from Subaru. But if you use a new STI pump, I don't forsee any problems unless you start to see a pressure drop at higher rpms. If you can still get the 22B pumps, I believe those are also higher volume/pressure but am not certain since I have not personally seen one of those pumps.
Thanks for putting back up my large post. I think it will help to explain a couple things that I see asked in most every email.
Thanks again,
Ron
25 February 2006 | 08:15 AM
#57
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Joined: May 2004
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You are obviously a Top Draw bloke Ron.
I am sure all the regular readers/contributors on here fully appreciate your comments and guidence.
Thanks BOB'5 too!
Graham
(wish I wasn't reading all this 2.33 stuff...)
Mark, what a great engine it will be; should frighten those EVO's on the hills. Please stay in the South iykwim
I am sure all the regular readers/contributors on here fully appreciate your comments and guidence.
Thanks BOB'5 too!
Graham
(wish I wasn't reading all this 2.33 stuff...)
Mark, what a great engine it will be; should frighten those EVO's on the hills. Please stay in the South iykwim
25 February 2006 | 10:19 AM
#59
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If you dont want the hassle of shipping from the states then my "Big Power Ready" short motor parts are for sale. Peace of mind get your own engine builder to build it. The parts consist of the previously mentioned EJ22t CD block with oil squirters, relinered with thick diesel liners to withstand high boost, PAR rods (as used in Australias fastest Subaru), Forged Crank (not a Subaru one ) ACL race bearings and Custom Wiseco pistons 
Its located in the "General For Sale Section" under "Big Sale, selling up" or here.. http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=493775
Cheers
) ACL race bearings and Custom Wiseco pistons Its located in the "General For Sale Section" under "Big Sale, selling up" or here.. http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=493775
Cheers
Last edited by The Fixer; 25 February 2006 at 10:22 AM.