Brake Pads
02 March 2006, 12:49 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Legally, they have to match the OEM Pads by a minimum of 90%!
Pete
Pete
i dont get what you mean, who has to match what?
john
02 March 2006, 08:29 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by EVOLUTION
i dont get what you mean, who has to match what?
john
john
Therefore a Brake Pad at £4:99 will be at, or exceed, 90% of the specification of OEM Pads.
In the SAME way that a Pad costing 10x as much has to ........
Pete
02 March 2006, 08:31 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by scooby_matt
Another one of Petes homemade facts I think
Pete
02 March 2006, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pslewis
I've just run a search on Google for a village missing their idiot ......... they would like you to return!!
Pete
Pete
02 March 2006, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by corradoboy
You'll know when they're down to the minimum as the scraping noise they make due to the metal clip wear indicators that come into contact with the disc bell is irritating as ****. Very easy DIY job to save yourself a few quid, requiring just the wheel removed and a pair of adjustable pliers. Remove wire clip, slide out retaining pins, use adj. pliers to push pistons back (remembering to have previously removed the brake fluid res cap) with the old pad surface, slide out old, slide in new (with a layer of copper slip on the back), replace pins, replace wire clip, replace wheel. Can highly recommend Ferodo DS2000 and Mintex 1144 as an alternative to the OE rubbish, also well worth the cash but much more expensive is Pagid Black RS4.2.1. DO NOT even consider EBC Reds, as they're made of butter and last about 3 months.
if i recall many cars now require the piston to be wound back in, using the push it back brute force method, runs the risk of damaging the dust seal.
I always drop the caliper of its mounts and take the oppertunity to decrud piston and caliper examine, for any damage, remove and lubricate any sliding pins /bushes etc, before locating one pad, refitting the caliper and sliding the other pad in.
Mart
02 March 2006, 09:58 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by mart360
if i recall many cars now require the piston to be wound back in, using the push it back brute force method, runs the risk of damaging the dust seal.
02 March 2006, 12:15 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Braking equipment has to meet the EU Reg.90 .......
Therefore a Brake Pad at £4:99 will be at, or exceed, 90% of the specification of OEM Pads.
In the SAME way that a Pad costing 10x as much has to ........
Pete
Therefore a Brake Pad at £4:99 will be at, or exceed, 90% of the specification of OEM Pads.
In the SAME way that a Pad costing 10x as much has to ........
Pete
the specification beint "IT HAS TO STOP YOU SOME TIME ON YOUR JOURNY"
yeah, i can see that point, but the differences in brake pads are alot mor than just price. compounds for a start.
im guessing the £4.99 ones will heat up in a flash, when used hard i would imagine, (me being no expert), but im also guessing, you wont ever experience that driving your car round at 25mph everywhere lol
john
02 March 2006, 01:07 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by mart360
and good bye seals using that method!!
if i recall many cars now require the piston to be wound back in, using the push it back brute force method, runs the risk of damaging the dust seal.
I always drop the caliper of its mounts and take the oppertunity to decrud piston and caliper examine, for any damage, remove and lubricate any sliding pins /bushes etc, before locating one pad, refitting the caliper and sliding the other pad in.
Mart
if i recall many cars now require the piston to be wound back in, using the push it back brute force method, runs the risk of damaging the dust seal.
I always drop the caliper of its mounts and take the oppertunity to decrud piston and caliper examine, for any damage, remove and lubricate any sliding pins /bushes etc, before locating one pad, refitting the caliper and sliding the other pad in.
Mart
But, and I am willing to be proved wrong, I don't think that the Impreza pistons need to be wound back???
Pete
02 March 2006, 01:09 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Remove the brake res cap!!??...he he, it has a breather hole in the top 
Pete
02 March 2006, 01:11 PM
#43
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306 GTI-6 and RALLYE's, on the rears, they need to be wound back into the housing, they are on a very coarse thread. Its not that uncommen
john
john
02 March 2006, 02:05 PM
#44
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The rears on my Corrado have to be wound back, but not the fronts. It would be obvious by the resistance you meet as to whether winding is necessary, and Scooby 4 pot fronts certainly do not.
02 March 2006, 02:55 PM
#45
Originally Posted by pslewis
You remove the cap because, as you push the pistons back in, there is an overspill .......... do not let the fluid touch the paintwork!!!!!!!!!!
Pete
Pete
I can't help anyone who anally tops up their reservoir back to MAX with worn pads
02 March 2006, 07:22 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by pslewis
Well, I think I am now on 66,000miles with the original brake pads and discs all round ................... I used to get concerned that something was wrong, but, I have come to the conclusion that I can drive properly!
Idiots who drive around like a 'Make-Believe Rally Drivers' are eating them up in less than 70,000miles!!
Pete
Idiots who drive around like a 'Make-Believe Rally Drivers' are eating them up in less than 70,000miles!!
Pete
martin
02 March 2006, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by corradoboy
The rears on my Corrado have to be wound back, but not the fronts. It would be obvious by the resistance you meet as to whether winding is necessary, and Scooby 4 pot fronts certainly do not.
The reason rears often need winding in is because the pads are also used for the parking brake unlike the subaru which uses shoes inside the disc.They wind out as the pad wears to keep the pads adjusted for handbrake use.I've never known any fronts that need winding in.
Scooby rears dont need winding in either.
Last edited by Turbotits; 02 March 2006 at 08:24 PM.
02 March 2006, 08:20 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
The reason rears often need winding in is because the pads are also the parking brake
The Girling calipers are so shockingly bad that the car will roll even on a flat surface. Ever since I got it, the handbrake has been a chocolate fireguard 
02 March 2006, 10:06 PM
#49
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1 year old WRX, 15,000miles on 2nd set of pads already and I need new ones again... Oh and my disks are warped..
Am I a Loony Chav then???? Still on original tyres though.. Just doesn't add up in my book...
Oh, I am also on my first tank of Optimax Good eh!! 15,000 miles for £60.00. Cheap motor this.
Am I a Loony Chav then???? Still on original tyres though.. Just doesn't add up in my book...
Oh, I am also on my first tank of Optimax Good eh!! 15,000 miles for £60.00. Cheap motor this.
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