M5 E39 - Why dont we all have one??
17 April 2006, 10:43 AM
#31
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Might the VANOS need doing on an M5? I've heard that the older M3's had problems, not sure about the older M5's though?
TX.
TX.
Originally Posted by Jer
I have an M5 and a classic scoob. The scooby is now used as a scond car but I love them both. I have just put 4 new Dunlop sp9000 on the M5 and it was £650ish. The M5 I get 22 to the gallon but have never really checked the scoob, 220 per tank full I think. I have full BMW warenty on the M5 and would think if you don't / could not afford 5k+ if something major goes wrong don't bother getting one. Servicing on the Scooby is every 7500 miles servicing on the M5 is 12 -15k. I don't notice any big difference on running costs yet but have only done 12k in mine and it got the big service when I bought it.
17 April 2006, 02:04 PM
#32
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They do go but my M5 has BMW warranty. That's why I say keep some money back in case.
Originally Posted by Terminator X
Might the VANOS need doing on an M5? I've heard that the older M3's had problems, not sure about the older M5's though?
TX.
TX.
17 April 2006, 07:07 PM
#33
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That's my one, and currently up for sale. It's been a great car, not quite the thrill factor of my scoob but then it's got some practicality too
They cost fair bit more to run than a scoob in both servicing / petrol, but then it's in a different league.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/61199.htm
17 April 2006, 07:09 PM
#34
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18 April 2006, 11:24 PM
#37
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Phil + Snowy.
Looked back through my Evo Mags. Issue 58 (Aug 2003) had an M5 buying guide. Interested in your thoughts on the following bits mentioned:
1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
Apart from that Evo virtually creams itself about the car!
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
TX.
Looked back through my Evo Mags. Issue 58 (Aug 2003) had an M5 buying guide. Interested in your thoughts on the following bits mentioned:
1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
Apart from that Evo virtually creams itself about the car!
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
TX.
19 April 2006, 09:40 AM
#38
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1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
Piston ring design was revised along with recommended oil in Feb 2000 and cars pre this date have been known to get through a bit of oil. Not a huge problem as long as you check it regularly.
Mine is 06/2000 and I reckon I get through a litre every 4k miles or so.
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Depends how you treat it, you can kill a clutch in 10 minutes if you like with this power.
What I would say is that they take a bit of getting used to and if you are going hard through the gears you must get the clutch out fully before getting the power on hard or you can 'slip' it fairly easily which will shorten the life.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
Mine had front discs at 95k (plenty left before service limit) and the rears are about half worn. I've changed all the Pads for Axxis (better, less dust) but the originals have tons of meat left and have done at least 30k miles.
That said, 70% of my miles are motorway.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
Like anything, changing the bushes etc. between 60-100k miles will tighten it up.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Hard to match factory finish if you do one. I had all 4 done at Lepsons on their same day turnaround for £329 and they look gorgeous. New BMW centre caps are nice as well @ £20 from the dealer.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
22mpg from a 5l V8 seems completely reasonable to me and I get 15-20k from tyres (Eagle F1's).
Like the clutch you can kill them easily if you want but most owners don't drive like journalists.
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
34 years old, on the drive, 20k miles, business class 1 use, £689 with A-Plan/Groupama.
Cheers!
Phil
Piston ring design was revised along with recommended oil in Feb 2000 and cars pre this date have been known to get through a bit of oil. Not a huge problem as long as you check it regularly.
Mine is 06/2000 and I reckon I get through a litre every 4k miles or so.
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Depends how you treat it, you can kill a clutch in 10 minutes if you like with this power.
What I would say is that they take a bit of getting used to and if you are going hard through the gears you must get the clutch out fully before getting the power on hard or you can 'slip' it fairly easily which will shorten the life.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
Mine had front discs at 95k (plenty left before service limit) and the rears are about half worn. I've changed all the Pads for Axxis (better, less dust) but the originals have tons of meat left and have done at least 30k miles.
That said, 70% of my miles are motorway.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
Like anything, changing the bushes etc. between 60-100k miles will tighten it up.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Hard to match factory finish if you do one. I had all 4 done at Lepsons on their same day turnaround for £329 and they look gorgeous. New BMW centre caps are nice as well @ £20 from the dealer.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
22mpg from a 5l V8 seems completely reasonable to me and I get 15-20k from tyres (Eagle F1's).
Like the clutch you can kill them easily if you want but most owners don't drive like journalists.
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
34 years old, on the drive, 20k miles, business class 1 use, £689 with A-Plan/Groupama.
Cheers!
Phil
19 April 2006, 10:35 AM
#39
From looking at the above, it's no worse than the average well driven Impreza, which usually do tyres every 15-20K, clutch 50-60K. Pads 20-30K (if stock) Discs 40K-60K. 22mpg vs 24mpg etc. BMW parts for general service items and mechanical wear and tear parts are fairly competetive to Subaru's extortionate parts pricing.
Biggest sting, as with Subarus is the dealer labour times and rates. That's where independants and DIY comes in to play
NSX is still looking quite cheap to run so far (for a fast car) ...cambelt is due soon though <gulp> And insurance is silly money.
Biggest sting, as with Subarus is the dealer labour times and rates. That's where independants and DIY comes in to play
NSX is still looking quite cheap to run so far (for a fast car) ...cambelt is due soon though <gulp> And insurance is silly money.
19 April 2006, 10:54 AM
#40
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I've got one and I love it. But then again, I'm still in the first flush of ownership - the honeymoon period if you like - where all is sweetness and light.
It does more to the gallon that the Scoob, that's for sure, as well as running on standard UL quite happily. Service intervals are waaaay longer, and the costs look about the same.
No, it's not as much fun as the Scoob on twisty roads but on a run (most of my trips are fairly long at the moment) or if you don't feel like driving on max attack the whole time then it's at least as good. Plus you can hold a conversation in it at 140mph without raising your voice
Here's mine anyway:
SB
It does more to the gallon that the Scoob, that's for sure, as well as running on standard UL quite happily. Service intervals are waaaay longer, and the costs look about the same.
No, it's not as much fun as the Scoob on twisty roads but on a run (most of my trips are fairly long at the moment) or if you don't feel like driving on max attack the whole time then it's at least as good. Plus you can hold a conversation in it at 140mph without raising your voice
Here's mine anyway:
SB
19 April 2006, 10:57 AM
#41
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Bung a full tank of Tesco 99 in it, they absolutely love it - mental throttle response and bottom end like you would not believe.
About 2 mpg less though
Phil
About 2 mpg less though
Phil
19 April 2006, 04:11 PM
#44
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1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
Mine is a early 2000 and therefore has the early piston design which is known to be thirsty on oil. Mine consumes 1 ltr of oil every 800 miles. The dealers still consider 400 miles per ltr to be normal consumption for the original engine design.
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Mine is still on it's original clutch at 84k and has never slipped. However I have met other M5's drivers whos cars eat through clutches at a scary 30k without being driven hard. Glad mines not one of them.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
During my ownership I havent needed pads or disks. I checked them when I purchased and the disks were almost brand new so I would think my car went about 65K on the first set of disks.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
As I have warranty bits like this have never worried me. I have had nothing suspension wise go wrong.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Mine need a refurb, however If you goto a decent refurbisher it not an issue. Just watch the cowboys as the alloys are hard to match and they will make a mess of them.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
I used to get 22MPG average... then I got both MAF sensors replaced under warranty, I now get 19 MPG average.
400 bhp + RWD + Heavy right foot -> you will go through the rears fast if you drive like this. I would probably get 30000 miles out of a set.
Apart from that Evo virtually creams itself about the car!
Don't blame them
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
£1200 for me, 33 yrs, 15 years no claims, clean licence, unlimited milage, business use, fully protected no claims, curtosy car etc etc, I dont think my postcode helps in the insurance stakes.
My scoob was the same amount at the same address with the same insurers, (note my scoob was an import).
Cheers
Snowy
Mine is a early 2000 and therefore has the early piston design which is known to be thirsty on oil. Mine consumes 1 ltr of oil every 800 miles. The dealers still consider 400 miles per ltr to be normal consumption for the original engine design.
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Mine is still on it's original clutch at 84k and has never slipped. However I have met other M5's drivers whos cars eat through clutches at a scary 30k without being driven hard. Glad mines not one of them.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
During my ownership I havent needed pads or disks. I checked them when I purchased and the disks were almost brand new so I would think my car went about 65K on the first set of disks.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
As I have warranty bits like this have never worried me. I have had nothing suspension wise go wrong.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Mine need a refurb, however If you goto a decent refurbisher it not an issue. Just watch the cowboys as the alloys are hard to match and they will make a mess of them.
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
I used to get 22MPG average... then I got both MAF sensors replaced under warranty, I now get 19 MPG average.
400 bhp + RWD + Heavy right foot -> you will go through the rears fast if you drive like this. I would probably get 30000 miles out of a set.
Apart from that Evo virtually creams itself about the car!
Don't blame them
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
£1200 for me, 33 yrs, 15 years no claims, clean licence, unlimited milage, business use, fully protected no claims, curtosy car etc etc, I dont think my postcode helps in the insurance stakes.
My scoob was the same amount at the same address with the same insurers, (note my scoob was an import).
Cheers
Snowy
19 April 2006, 04:33 PM
#45
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Mine is still on it's original clutch at 84k and has never slipped. However I have met other M5's drivers whos cars eat through clutches at a scary 30k without being driven hard. Glad mines not one of them.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
During my ownership I havent needed pads or disks. I checked them when I purchased and the disks were almost brand new so I would think my car went about 65K on the first set of disks.
Mine is still on it's original clutch at 84k and has never slipped. However I have met other M5's drivers whos cars eat through clutches at a scary 30k without being driven hard. Glad mines not one of them.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
During my ownership I havent needed pads or disks. I checked them when I purchased and the disks were almost brand new so I would think my car went about 65K on the first set of disks.
Brakes are a similar story too.
19 April 2006, 06:14 PM
#46
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Thought I'd add some more froma new owner's perspective (comparing directly to an import WRX)
1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
Mine uses a bit - probably a litre every 600 miles - and smokes slightly when you boot it after a period of pootling. This is apparently normal as it's "clearing its throat" as the dealer put it...
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Mine's still on the original clutch. At 154,000 miles! No slip at all and takeup seems smooth and even.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
Oddly enough mine has eaten front discs every 40,000, almost on the button. Last set (front and rear) replaced the week before I got it. Fronts don't wear out, though, they warp and get replaced under warranty. Pads go every 20k as suggested.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
Mine's had all the bushes, drop links etc replaced under warranty and it drives as tightly as the 23,000 miler I tried beforehand.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Probably. My cousin owns a wheel refurbisher so not a concern
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
I'm getting 22 - 25 mpg according to the computer, though I had an, um, spirited drive not long after pickeing it up (well, you do, right?) and got nearer 10. BIG smile.
Previous owner was getting 15-20,000 miles from a set of tyres but most of his driving was on the motorway. And the computer said the average consumption for him was 24.6mpg over the last God knows how long.
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
Unlimited mileage, garaged, business use and four years no claims saw me save £150 a year over the Scoob, both with A-Plan. It's still bloody expensive but it's cheaper than it could have been.
Overall I reckon I'll save a fair amount of money over the next 100,000 miles or so compared to the Scoob. And I managed to persuade my wife that a 5 litre V8 was an economy move
SB
1. Engine thirsty for oil. As much as 1ltr per 1000 miles!
Mine uses a bit - probably a litre every 600 miles - and smokes slightly when you boot it after a period of pootling. This is apparently normal as it's "clearing its throat" as the dealer put it...
2. Clutch change at about 50k miles. £500 ish to do.
Mine's still on the original clutch. At 154,000 miles! No slip at all and takeup seems smooth and even.
3. Pads need changing every 20k miles. Front discs at 40k miles. Rears at 50k miles.
Oddly enough mine has eaten front discs every 40,000, almost on the button. Last set (front and rear) replaced the week before I got it. Fronts don't wear out, though, they warp and get replaced under warranty. Pads go every 20k as suggested.
4. Suspension change (bits of it) at 60k miles. £400 ish to do.
Mine's had all the bushes, drop links etc replaced under warranty and it drives as tightly as the 23,000 miler I tried beforehand.
5. Alloys difficult to refurbish and/or costly.
Probably. My cousin owns a wheel refurbisher so not a concern
6. Thirsty on fuel (would be though) + "eats" rear tyres.
I'm getting 22 - 25 mpg according to the computer, though I had an, um, spirited drive not long after pickeing it up (well, you do, right?) and got nearer 10. BIG smile.
Previous owner was getting 15-20,000 miles from a set of tyres but most of his driving was on the motorway. And the computer said the average consumption for him was 24.6mpg over the last God knows how long.
Final thought - how do you find the insurance? OK or a lot?
Unlimited mileage, garaged, business use and four years no claims saw me save £150 a year over the Scoob, both with A-Plan. It's still bloody expensive but it's cheaper than it could have been.
Overall I reckon I'll save a fair amount of money over the next 100,000 miles or so compared to the Scoob. And I managed to persuade my wife that a 5 litre V8 was an economy move
SB
19 April 2006, 11:57 PM
#51
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Phil, Snowy + SB.
You are all stars! Fantastic posts from you guys, thanks!
I'm starting to warm to the M5 now so I'll keep you posted ...
TX.
PS.
Can you guys PM me with the cost to keep the BMW warranties going? Cheers.
You are all stars! Fantastic posts from you guys, thanks!
I'm starting to warm to the M5 now so I'll keep you posted ...
TX.
PS.
Can you guys PM me with the cost to keep the BMW warranties going? Cheers.
21 April 2006, 02:06 AM
#52
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you will find some very important information regarding the price changes to the warranty over on www.bm3w.co.uk
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