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Old 29 October 2006, 08:10 PM
  #31  
harvey
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Nick: If you are going to pay for a rolling road session to find out about your car, then you need as much information as possible. This is as opposed to a rolling road day where you may only be comparing your bhp and torque with the results from fellow enthusiasts.
Bhp and torque you will get anyhow and it is interesting to look at the boost profile. Boost profile on the rollers may be a little different to that on the road. For me, seeing the actual AFRs is also very useful and other places around will be able to do that for you. E-mail me if you want.

I am not sure what model and year you have but you can actually read the fault codes yourself and reset the ECU. If you don't know how to do that then a post on here will get you that information as a topic on its own or if you are stuck, e-mail me with your postal address although somebody might be able to give you a link to what I have on hard paper from some site.

I see little point in plugging in the diagnostic and if you were closer I guess you could have it done for a fiver.

Personally I think a Knock Link is a good idea, especially if you have aspirations to extract any more than OE power, especially on Jap cars.
Old 29 October 2006, 08:24 PM
  #32  
nickwrxstiV2
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Originally Posted by harvey
Nick: If you are going to pay for a rolling road session to find out about your car, then you need as much information as possible. This is as opposed to a rolling road day where you may only be comparing your bhp and torque with the results from fellow enthusiasts.
Bhp and torque you will get anyhow and it is interesting to look at the boost profile. Boost profile on the rollers may be a little different to that on the road. For me, seeing the actual AFRs is also very useful and other places around will be able to do that for you. E-mail me if you want.

I am not sure what model and year you have but you can actually read the fault codes yourself and reset the ECU. If you don't know how to do that then a post on here will get you that information as a topic on its own or if you are stuck, e-mail me with your postal address although somebody might be able to give you a link to what I have on hard paper from some site.

I see little point in plugging in the diagnostic and if you were closer I guess you could have it done for a fiver.

Personally I think a Knock Link is a good idea, especially if you have aspirations to extract any more than OE power, especially on Jap cars.
Cheers for the info Harvey!

I have just done a fault code reading the other day. It flashed only 1 code - 45, which I believe to be a pressure sensor just above the boost solenoid. I'm going to get some brake cleaner and clean it out whil the green plugs are connected. Hopefully, this will clear the fault.

The car is an MY96 STi version 2, it has the following mods -

Blitz SUS IK
Blitz Nur Spec full system
H&S 3" decat DP
Blitz blow off valve
ESL scoobyECU chip running 1.1 bar

What do you think my target should be? I'd love to see 310bhp, but anything over 300 would be good!

Nick
Old 01 November 2006, 08:01 AM
  #33  
nickwrxstiV2
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The car is an MY96 STi version 2, it has the following mods -

Blitz SUS IK
Blitz Nur Spec full system
H&S 3" decat DP
Blitz blow off valve
ESL scoobyECU chip running 1.1 bar

What do you think my target should be? I'd love to see 310bhp, but anything over 300 would be good!

Nick



bttt
Old 01 November 2006, 11:03 PM
  #34  
harvey
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I think 310 bhp is a very realistic target.
It would be worth checking your AFRs on the road.
Ported headers and up-pipe would certainly help you but remember, I am biased.
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