Dark Blue Mark

Dyno's - just ignore any flywheel calcs and you will be fine. Trouble is, people naturally like to quote the bigger figure which is the flywheel one. Power at the wheels is the most accurate. Drivetrain loss can be calculated on a dyno, but there will always be errors.

So you are only losing 20 bhp through your drivetrain? Not sure on that, but figures do vary depending on RWD / FWD / AWD. Its normally best to use a % figure.

Its also very easy to spot an iffy dyno chart!

Filters - K&N are great, full stop. Some of the HKS stuff is dangerous as they just dont filter anything. Of course, too much dirt can be harmful.

Power - Why would you want more low end power on a VTEC? The operating range is from 5600 - 8500 so thats where the gain is.

MB

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

Tried the airbox mod today and oh my f&cking god!
That is one hell of an intake roar!
The only downside was that I had a faint whistle as I opened the throttle.

Fitted an oil catch can today which should help filter out the nasty gases that normally go back into the intake.
I've put the airbox cover back on for now, but it did make a very muscular roar. (apart from the crappy whistle)

delcbr

Puma Race Engines Technical Guide - Preparing for a Rolling Road Tuning Session - Part 2
it works out as 122bhp using said formula
why is k&n great cos it has a massive following so it must be good?
chris how do you find the power delivery on the teg do you find its either all or nothing?
my impression was it had to be thrashed to get it to accelerate smartly say like a chav starts to undertake you when your cruising simply pressing the accelerator and dropping a cog aint going to be enough ://
i would want more power lower down to make it a more usable and flexible car...i would like teg more even if id didnt make as much power say it made 170 peak bhp @6400rpm lower in the range that way it wouldnt take so long to get into the powerband.

Monkeybone

I'm guessing K+N are considered good as their filters are used in a hell of a lot of applications as well as road cars.

Riprock

Like i said very early on,when you take the cover off see if you can tell when the vtec engages ..........

Dark Blue Mark

Puma race engines?? Not reading that

Why are K&N good? Tell me why they aren't - you cant just base it on some article you have read. k&N are the OEM for a lot of equipment - fitlers are their only business and I have *never* heard a complaint against them. Delve into other makes and you will find issues. You get the likes of ITG which damage MAF sensors, APS that can actually blow your engine up, and HKS which are like grannies tights. K&N are very high quality.

RE the ITR - you need to have onwed one rahter than base it on thoughs. The car's whole ethos is based on it desined for being revved hard. If you are sprinting, once you get out of first and redline in each gear, you dont drop below VTEC - so not much point in fatteng up the lower part of the rev range.

If you dont want to drop it 2 cogs to overtake, buy an scoob or Evo

MB

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

As Mark said, the whole point of the integra is to drive it hard.
You don't have to though, and there is more than enough power (130bhp I think) below 5600rpm to make swift progress. Don't forget, it only weighs 1140KG When you want to have a go in a touring car, just take it past that magical 5600rpm and you're pushed back in your seat all the way upto 8500rpm. And I can't emphasize enough the incredible sound that erupts from B18C engine.

The only thing I'd really consider doing, is fit a uni-chip and vtec controller to lower the vtec stage to around 5000rpm.