Replacing rear crank seal,gearbox off or engine out ?
12 March 2007, 11:36 PM
#31
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Ive got 3 lifting straps rated at 300kgs,hopefully they will lift the engine safely.
Inlet manifold it is then
Are the rear crank oil seals the same on all Impreza's ? Im just about to order mine from Grahame Goode but it doesnt mention any models,just says Impreza ?
Inlet manifold it is then
Are the rear crank oil seals the same on all Impreza's ? Im just about to order mine from Grahame Goode but it doesnt mention any models,just says Impreza ?
13 March 2007, 08:07 AM
#32
Inlet is fine, but watch-out for pipes/tubes/plastic bits. There is a lifting lug by the alternator but never found one at the back...
Engines weight less than 300Kg I think.
I have my hoist set at max reach and all is ok.
Reember to unbolt the engine fore/aft stabiliser under the TMIC.
Graham
Engines weight less than 300Kg I think.
I have my hoist set at max reach and all is ok.
Reember to unbolt the engine fore/aft stabiliser under the TMIC.
Graham
13 March 2007, 06:20 PM
#33
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I have a FMIC so I will be able to get to that abit easier 
Thanks for your advice.
Just one more thing,where can I find out all the torque settings for all the associated nuts/bolts ?
Thanks for your advice.
Just one more thing,where can I find out all the torque settings for all the associated nuts/bolts ?
13 March 2007, 07:43 PM
#34
I don't bother!
The bolts are all much the same size, M8 so about 40 Lbft, but I just use 'by hand' method of that feels tight enough. Nothing has ever loosened off.
Only use a torque wrench for wheelnuts. cylinder heads and suspension
I've been fooling with cars for 35 years though.
The bolts are all much the same size, M8 so about 40 Lbft, but I just use 'by hand' method of that feels tight enough. Nothing has ever loosened off.
Only use a torque wrench for wheelnuts. cylinder heads and suspension
I've been fooling with cars for 35 years though.
16 March 2007, 12:30 AM
#35
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Got my rear crank seal today ready to do the job. How is it fitted ? Does it just push in by hand or is there a certain way that it needs to be fitted ?
16 March 2007, 07:23 PM
#36
Golden rule:
ALWAYS check/note ecactly how the old one comes out!
They normally pull out with a lot of grief, but look most carefully which way round it comes out and drift (very carefully) the new one in the same way round.
It does need to go back in the right way round (usually with the lip in towards the oil side of the engine, but check carefully.
Graham
ALWAYS check/note ecactly how the old one comes out!
They normally pull out with a lot of grief, but look most carefully which way round it comes out and drift (very carefully) the new one in the same way round.
It does need to go back in the right way round (usually with the lip in towards the oil side of the engine, but check carefully.
Graham
17 March 2007, 08:24 AM
#38
The seal is very large so you end up improvising. Look around for anything that size, even drain pipe tubing, but if you lightly grease the seal with a smear you can ease it in very gently by tapping side by side by side working around the circunference, tapping in a mm no more at a time. The seal is not a high force fit, just do not try to get it in too quickly.
Now is the time to take your time.
Graham
Now is the time to take your time.
Graham
17 March 2007, 10:57 PM
#39
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Well the engine is now out,old turbo is off
Took me about 3 hours to remove one of the downpipe bolts
Hopefully tomorrow the new turbo will be on,the new crank seal will be fitted and the engine will be back in
Took me about 3 hours to remove one of the downpipe bolts
Hopefully tomorrow the new turbo will be on,the new crank seal will be fitted and the engine will be back in
18 March 2007, 08:31 PM
#42
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Well,new crank seal is fitted,new turbo is fitted but cant for the life of me get the engine to line up with the gearbox
Everything seems to be in the way,the engine mount studs get caught on the subframe,the manifold gets caught on the mount for the rad
Is there a preferred way of getting the engine and box lined up ? I had the 'box jacked up but it was then too high to mate with the engine ?
Everything seems to be in the way,the engine mount studs get caught on the subframe,the manifold gets caught on the mount for the rad
Is there a preferred way of getting the engine and box lined up ? I had the 'box jacked up but it was then too high to mate with the engine ?
18 March 2007, 10:50 PM
#43
No, this is normal!
It is a real bugga to get straight, and i think i said way back the box out option gives more room to wrestle things back together.
Box out is a bitch to get back in at times.
Some things to check:
There is a sheet metal cover along the bottom of the engine/box between the 2 lower studs. Is this in the way/bent?
Obvious, but the clutch MUST be aligned ****-on, there is little/no tolerance to allow for any off-set. If this is out the engine will go on tantilisingly close and then stop dead on you and will not go on further.
As a last resort, remove the 2 lower studs, get the engine on and re-fit the studs.
Whatever you do do not force things and do NOT lose either of the side dowel pins!
My money is on the clutch alignment, it must be better than 0.5mm!
You need to get the engine.box faces parallel before the big push and keep them that way. You will not be able to push the 2 together due to the side dowels, but you should be able to get the 2 together right up to the dowels.
Use the 4 bolts to pull it tight as if you are that far, the input shaft is in the clutch and flywheel spigot bearing.
If the engine is out right now emery cloth the diameters of the side dowels to a polished finish and grease well.
It is a pain of a job I know (It took 6 attempts to do the engine way when I last did it, the metal cover was bent over and stopped the lot dead)
Keep at it!
It is a real bugga to get straight, and i think i said way back the box out option gives more room to wrestle things back together.
Box out is a bitch to get back in at times.
Some things to check:
There is a sheet metal cover along the bottom of the engine/box between the 2 lower studs. Is this in the way/bent?
Obvious, but the clutch MUST be aligned ****-on, there is little/no tolerance to allow for any off-set. If this is out the engine will go on tantilisingly close and then stop dead on you and will not go on further.
As a last resort, remove the 2 lower studs, get the engine on and re-fit the studs.
Whatever you do do not force things and do NOT lose either of the side dowel pins!
My money is on the clutch alignment, it must be better than 0.5mm!
You need to get the engine.box faces parallel before the big push and keep them that way. You will not be able to push the 2 together due to the side dowels, but you should be able to get the 2 together right up to the dowels.
Use the 4 bolts to pull it tight as if you are that far, the input shaft is in the clutch and flywheel spigot bearing.
If the engine is out right now emery cloth the diameters of the side dowels to a polished finish and grease well.
It is a pain of a job I know (It took 6 attempts to do the engine way when I last did it, the metal cover was bent over and stopped the lot dead)
Keep at it!
Last edited by 911; 18 March 2007 at 10:53 PM.
18 March 2007, 11:05 PM
#44
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Im nowhere near the clutch lining up stage,the 2 studs from the engine just about line up with the gearbox and then thats it,wont go any further ! Can't do anymore now till next weekend which is a bugger
I used a clutch aligning tool but it didn't fit in the flywheel aswell as it did on other cars so im not sure how accurate I have lined it all up !
I used a clutch aligning tool but it didn't fit in the flywheel aswell as it did on other cars so im not sure how accurate I have lined it all up !
19 March 2007, 08:16 AM
#45
Yes, the commercial alignment tools do not accommodate the 12mm (?) spigot bearing dia.
In the end I made my own from nylon in a lathe for accuracy.
I used this on my last gearbox swop and the 2 mated instantly, first time ever ever ever!
It is all a game of precise alignment.
Graham.
In the end I made my own from nylon in a lathe for accuracy.
I used this on my last gearbox swop and the 2 mated instantly, first time ever ever ever!
It is all a game of precise alignment.
Graham.
19 March 2007, 07:24 PM
#46
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Yes, the commercial alignment tools do not accommodate the 12mm (?) spigot bearing dia.
In the end I made my own from nylon in a lathe for accuracy.
I used this on my last gearbox swop and the 2 mated instantly, first time ever ever ever!
It is all a game of precise alignment.
Graham.
In the end I made my own from nylon in a lathe for accuracy.
I used this on my last gearbox swop and the 2 mated instantly, first time ever ever ever!
It is all a game of precise alignment.
Graham.
19 March 2007, 08:33 PM
#47
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when i did it the only problem i come across was the gearbox being to low after a quick jack up it flew on, i cant remember if you have used a new clutch? if so did you check it first on the input shaft to see if it fitted just a thought only happend once to me and i check every time with out fail.
19 March 2007, 09:28 PM
#48
There is space to do that trick but bloody awkward, and if you slacken too much the friction plate will drop miles and you will have to move the engine all over again.
The alignment tool i first bought was actually badly machined and the sections were machines off-centre.
This is why i made my own to be a precise fit.
Gaz makes a good point above, I do the very same, and tripple check i have the 'Flywheel side' on the right side!
If you wish, send me your address and I will post to you my home made alignment tool for you to borrow, promise to return it though!
Graham
The alignment tool i first bought was actually badly machined and the sections were machines off-centre.
This is why i made my own to be a precise fit.
Gaz makes a good point above, I do the very same, and tripple check i have the 'Flywheel side' on the right side!
If you wish, send me your address and I will post to you my home made alignment tool for you to borrow, promise to return it though!
Graham
19 March 2007, 09:45 PM
#49
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when i did it the only problem i come across was the gearbox being to low after a quick jack up it flew on, i cant remember if you have used a new clutch? if so did you check it first on the input shaft to see if it fitted just a thought only happend once to me and i check every time with out fail.
20 March 2007, 06:33 PM
#51
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Cheers Graham,your tool will surely make the job much easier.
If I have to remove the 2 lower studs from the engine,what would be the best way to get them out ?
If I have to remove the 2 lower studs from the engine,what would be the best way to get them out ?
20 March 2007, 07:03 PM
#52
Try getting it back on without doing that first.
If still no good then you screw a nut onto one stud followed by a second until the second one is fully on the threads of the stud.
Tighten the 2 nuts against each other very tightly. and such that the flats align to each other.
This effectivly put a 'head' onto the stud.
Plece a socket over BOTH nuts and gently apply torque and the stud should come out of the block. Once it is on the move spray with WD40 to get that into the thread in the block. Be gentle!
You put them back in the same way.
Remove one at a time as it is easy to get one into the box and then you can balance the jacks to align the engine/box.
Graham
If still no good then you screw a nut onto one stud followed by a second until the second one is fully on the threads of the stud.
Tighten the 2 nuts against each other very tightly. and such that the flats align to each other.
This effectivly put a 'head' onto the stud.
Plece a socket over BOTH nuts and gently apply torque and the stud should come out of the block. Once it is on the move spray with WD40 to get that into the thread in the block. Be gentle!
You put them back in the same way.
Remove one at a time as it is easy to get one into the box and then you can balance the jacks to align the engine/box.
Graham
24 March 2007, 08:35 PM
#53
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Well im pleased to say the engine is finally back in
Took alot of messing around to get the engine and 'box to line up and I had to remove the headers to allow me more room. Just got to finish off tomorrow and hopefully itll be running again.
Graham,your tool lined my clutch up spot on. I reckon you should make a few more of them and sell them on here I will get it back in the post to you next week.
Took alot of messing around to get the engine and 'box to line up and I had to remove the headers to allow me more room. Just got to finish off tomorrow and hopefully itll be running again.
Graham,your tool lined my clutch up spot on. I reckon you should make a few more of them and sell them on here
I will get it back in the post to you next week.
27 March 2007, 09:36 PM
#56
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Final update on my progress. The car is running spot on now with no leaks or problems 
With the new turbo fitted it absolutely flies,the old turbo must have been on the way out when I bought the car.
Its been hard work but well worth it in the end
Thanks to everyone who offered me advice.
Graham: I have your clutch alignment tool at work,going to take the dimensions of it and make one up in the machine shop,will get it straight in the post to you then
With the new turbo fitted it absolutely flies,the old turbo must have been on the way out when I bought the car.
Its been hard work but well worth it in the end
Thanks to everyone who offered me advice.
Graham: I have your clutch alignment tool at work,going to take the dimensions of it and make one up in the machine shop,will get it straight in the post to you then
02 April 2007, 11:56 PM
#57
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Well after a few days of fun and no oil leaks,I now have the worst oil leak ever,lost all my engine oil from what looks like the rear crank seal again 
Ive checked all the turbo pipes etc and there isnt any leaks there.
Since fitting the crank seal,ive found out its supposed to be fitted just on the end of the crank,I pushed it all the way down the recess
So the whole lots coming out and im going to be fitting another seal. I didnt use any sealant last time,which sealant should I use to smear the o/d of the seal with ?
Ive also been told about an inspection cover/plate behind the flywheel which can leak. Apparently some engines had plastic covers which can crack and others have metal covers which are better.Well mine has a plastic cover,anyone know where I can get the metal cover from ?
Its going to be a fun easter weekend for me
Ive checked all the turbo pipes etc and there isnt any leaks there.
Since fitting the crank seal,ive found out its supposed to be fitted just on the end of the crank,I pushed it all the way down the recess
So the whole lots coming out and im going to be fitting another seal. I didnt use any sealant last time,which sealant should I use to smear the o/d of the seal with ?
Ive also been told about an inspection cover/plate behind the flywheel which can leak. Apparently some engines had plastic covers which can crack and others have metal covers which are better.Well mine has a plastic cover,anyone know where I can get the metal cover from ?
Its going to be a fun easter weekend for me
03 April 2007, 12:27 PM
#58
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3 bond sealant.. dealer or motor factors..
breaker for cover.. HDC SUBARU - parts .. breaking .. salvage .. consumables.. mail order, Essex Subaru Breakers, www.grade-asubaru.com
etc..
Simon
breaker for cover.. HDC SUBARU - parts .. breaking .. salvage .. consumables.. mail order, Essex Subaru Breakers, www.grade-asubaru.com
etc..
Simon
